wire connectors

[vickij37]

do the regular wire connectors work on the 6volt system>

[Plymouthy Adams]

define regular.....................

[Eneto-55]

If you are referring to the blade type connectors in common use now, I've wondered about that myself, but suspect that the majority of them are not large enough to carry 6 volt current.  (But I'm not an electrician - or an electrical engineer - so I'm interested in what others say about this.)

[JBNeal]

I rewired my '48 1/2 ton with 6V connectors back in '96...they look the same as 12V connectors...haven't had a problem with that wiring yet...the biggest problem is splicing new wires onto the original cloth covered wiring, as the old wiring is susceptible to corrosion inside the cloth covering since it does a poor job of sealing out moisture.  This causes the original wiring harness to have sky high impedance, and ppl think that converting to 12V is a safe shortcut to having a functional electrical system, but that's a different discussion.

[Dave72dt]

You can get almost any automotive style connector for a heavier gauge wire.   The connectors used for most 12v systems may be too small for the wires to fit properly.

[maok]

All those connectors are colour coded for different wire gages, choose the correct one for your wire gage and current requirement in the circuit,  the voltage in automotive use has nothing to do with it.

[Eneto-55]

I stripped the wire harnesses out of a 93 Chrysler T & C some years ago, and saved it all, thinking that I could reuse a lot of it.  So I thought we were talking about standard automotive connectors, not the stuff you can buy in a hardware store.  The majority of the wires in a car of that vintage are much smaller gauge than anything in a 6 volt car, where the smallest is 16 gauge.  So very few of the connectors from the '93 Chrysler are usable - the connectors are very narrow, and I am hesitant to consider the contact area great enough to adequately handle the load in a 6 volt system.  But yeah, I reckon that the blade connectors from a hardware or an after-market auto parts store would do just fine.  (The other very noticeable difference between the wire itself in the 93 as compared to the original wire in my 46 is that the older wire uses much finer strands - more strands of smaller individual gauge to make up the same over-all gauge.  Otherwise, a person could use stranded wire that is used in conduit type wiring in buildings.  But it has even heavier strands.  And incidentally, I DID find a number of places in the 93 harness where wires were broken inside the wrapping, places where there was constant flexing.)

[kencombs]

1 hour ago, Eneto-55 said:

I stripped the wire harnesses out of a 93 Chrysler T & C some years ago, and saved it all, thinking that I could reuse a lot of it.  So I thought we were talking about standard automotive connectors, not the stuff you can buy in a hardware store.  The majority of the wires in a car of that vintage are much smaller gauge than anything in a 6 volt car, where the smallest is 16 gauge.  So very few of the connectors from the '93 Chrysler are usable - the connectors are very narrow, and I am hesitant to consider the contact area great enough to adequately handle the load in a 6 volt system.  But yeah, I reckon that the blade connectors from a hardware or an after-market auto parts store would do just fine.  (The other very noticeable difference between the wire itself in the 93 as compared to the original wire in my 46 is that the older wire uses much finer strands - more strands of smaller individual gauge to make up the same over-all gauge.  Otherwise, a person could use stranded wire that is used in conduit type wiring in buildings.  But it has even heavier strands.  And incidentally, I DID find a number of places in the 93 harness where wires were broken inside the wrapping, places where there was constant flexing.)

That last sounds like a door harness.   They use the wrong wire (too few/too big/too stiff strands) in my 07 T&C.  You know it was a mistake when the aftermarket provides replacement harnesses    

[Plymouthy Adams]

all makers suffered the door wiring harness issues...even you will on a refit over time and daily use...you know you have a successful and well followed car when the aftermarket caters to it....

[Eneto-55]

12 minutes ago, kencombs said:

That last sounds like a door harness.   They use the wrong wire (too few/too big/too stiff strands) in my 07 T&C.  You know it was a mistake when the aftermarket provides replacement harnesses    

That's certainly what anyone would think, but it was actually in the engine to firewall harness where I saw the most of it, and also hood to firewall.  (The minivan was 17 years old at the time I stopped driving it, and it was our family car, so lots of short trips, starting & stopping.)

[Plymouthy Adams]

other than the door jamb wiring I have never in all my life suffered a wiring issue that WAS NOT directly related to gnawing rodent teeth...I's one lucky person I guess....!  This is not to be confused with poor connections of lighting sockets and grounds.  Those are not wire issues...they connection issues.

[Sniper]

On 3/15/2021 at 7:23 PM, maok said:

All those connectors are colour coded for different wire gages, choose the correct one for your wire gage and current requirement in the circuit,  the voltage in automotive use has nothing to do with it.

 

That is the last type of connector I would choose for automotive use.  Stay away from them.

[vickij37]

ok so the different portions of the complete wire harness, may have different guage wire and need connectors to match, did i get that right?

[Los_Control]

On 3/13/2021 at 4:37 PM, vickij37 said:

do the regular wire connectors work on the 6volt system>

After a lot of reading .... I hate to bring it up, I have a disability and sometimes all I can do for days or weeks is sit & read, watch videos.

So I have a lot of book learning without actual real life experience.

Reading a how to from a known Hot Rodder who in real life works in a modern day automotive electrical repair shop.

Using this type of connector ... quality and thickness will vary depending on point of purchase.

You can tin the wire, crimp it, then solder it, then shrink tube over it. You end up with a quality connection.

This is how I am building my wire harness.

 

[DJ194950]

Those connectors were once available in stainless and most often soldiered on as described.

 

My father who did a lot of appliance repairs on his job left me some.  Now all of the auto types have been used up and sure would like to find a source for more to use on my 50 Ply. wagon that still remains in the to finish shorty? future.

 

Electronic supply type of sources?

 

DJ

 

 

[chrysler1941]

Soldering is sublime on any terminals with no movement/vibrations.

 

Soldering terminals in vehicles, ships, train, planes etc is never done due to vibrations. 

 

For a hobby car, it's probably ok. Personally, only crimp with correct tools.

[Dodgeb4ya]

These old MoPars originally had soldered terminals...at least thru 1955.

If your old MoPar is vibrating.... fix it!

Properly soldered terminals will be fine rolling on the ground... not in the air.?

[chrysler1941]

 

Not sure if it's me or  car's vibrating most

 

Correct, some butt and flag connectors where soldered but after crimping. This was done to allow higher current draw by enlarging surface contact where wire meets connector. 

This practice is not done any more.

 

Did I mention no vehicle manufacture only solder terminals? LOL

 

 

Edited May 9, 2021 by chrysler1941

[Sniper]

On 5/9/2021 at 2:50 PM, chrysler1941 said:

Correct, some butt and flag connectors where soldered but after crimping. This was done to allow higher current draw by enlarging surface contact where wire meets connector. 

This practice is not done any more.

 

Did I mention no vehicle manufacture only solder terminals? LOL

 

I believe it was said to crimp and solder.  That's how I was taught in the Navy, you know where ships have soldered connections.

 

Crimp for strength

Solder for electrical conductivity

Strain relief to prevent breakage.

 

There is no one product that does all three that I know of.

 

When I rewired my 51 every connector was crimped, solder and heat shrink added for weather proofing and strain relief.

[chrysler1941]

1 hour ago, Sniper said:

 

I believe it was said to crimp and solder.  That's how I was taught in the Navy, you know where ships have soldered connections.

 

Crimp for strength

Solder for electrical conductivity

Strain relief to prevent breakage.

 

There is no one product that does all three that I know of.

 

When I rewired my 51 every connector was crimped, solder and heat shrink added for weather proofing and strain relief.

And this the correct way. 

[Veemoney]

On 5/7/2021 at 4:07 PM, DJ194950 said:

Now all of the auto types have been used up and sure would like to find a source for more to use on my 50 Ply. wagon that still remains in the to finish shorty? future.

When I rewired my 41 I purchased "Molex" block connection materials from Allied. I took a quick look and they have a wide selection of terminal connectors as well and a nice filter to zero in on the size and style you need. Panduit - P10-10RHT6-L - High Temperature Ring Terminal 12 - 10 AWG #10 stud size non-insulated - Allied Electronics & Automation

  

I have found terminal connectors with the heat shrink in place allowing you to tin, crimp, solder from the lug end and seal. Here is a resource for those at another outfit I have used in the past.  Personal though my preference is to use bare terminals with solder  & heat shrink  10600 Master Appliance Co | Kits | DigiKey 

[DJ194950]

Veemoney-

 

For my next project- still on hold- but very very close to get back to working on.

 

Bookmarked both-one for the shrink tubing- way-way cheaper there than in my area now.

 

The other for all -in -one terminal ends-expensive -sort of-but great way to do top of line work quickly.

 

Thanks for the ideas!