maok

apologies, that looks to be a AC to DC controller. Here is DC to DC controller, http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=163644688086&category=71393&pm=1&ds=0&t=1582093078385&cspheader=1

You need a DC motor speed controller, something like this, https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PWM-DC-Motor-Speed-Controller-Module-Switch-Control-for-6V-12V-24V-28V-3A-O1U4/164086622417?epid=2244173619&hash=item26345328d1:g:W28AAOSwwJ1eS3rf It would probably need to be more than 3amp, more like 5amps

This comment suggests that you don't understand. Google 'DC motor and voltage/current relationship' So its more a mechanical issue than an electrical issue?

I don't think you understand the relationship between a DC motor and the voltage and current(amps) applied to it. Its not the voltage that 'kills it', its the current. The current increases in relation to the mechanical resistance to the motor, ie., if the motor is stalled then current goes up dramatically.

You can run the 6volt wiper motor on 12 volts without any problems, it will spin faster, the amp draw will be slightly more.

Here is some pics of the Dodge at a couple weddings we did on the weekend,

Thanks for that. It measure almost 4". I wonder if that radial switch (1-4) is to adjust for different cylinder engines,ie., 2,4,6&8 cylinders?

I purchased it at our large annual swap meet, can anyone identify what car or truck its from. Only markings on the back are AT-5001. The two nuts have insulating washers underneath and the two screws don't. The long threaded posts I assume are mounting studs.

For future reference; Chrysler part number #601532 Cone = Timken #14125a Chrysler part number #43032 Cup = Timken #14276 Chrysler kit number #10546 = Timken 14125a/14276

Thanks for that, I didn't think the CR was a brand name...lol After giving the bearing a good clean, bingo, part number. KOYO #14125A

Hey guys, I have never done inner wheel bearings before, but it looks like I do need to replace the ones on my '37 Dodge MC, yes, its a truck chassis. Does any know the part number for the front inner wheel bearing and the seals, and the equivalent part numbers from timken, etc? The number seen on the pics is the seal only.

There is a chance that one of the optima's was bad, ie., internal short, because you had them in parallel, this would have caused the other to go flat as well even when the alternator was trying to charge them.

@Tony WestOZ Just the element mate. @JBNeal Awesome dude, that's exactly what I needed. I'm not home at the moment, I will check when I get back, its probably the first one. On the question of if its needed, well it wont hurt that's for sure.

The benefit should be at low down rpm torque, where we often drive at.

Does anyone know the part number for the VPW oil filters - they sell it cheap enough, however the postage to Australia is murder.