Engine noise identification and black carbon

[wagoneer]

Hello,

  I need some help identifying this noise . It’s got a high pitch to it and is repeating. I tested for, and ruled out main bearings and rod bearings through the disable plug method described in mtsc.

 

there is  quite a lot of carbon buildup in the cylinders and the plugs were all black , but the engine generally runs well . This was after I sprayed it and let soak with carbon cleaner .
 

no blue smoke out the tail. I tested compression and have 100+ on 5/6 cylinders and 95 on one.

 

I suspect a noisy tappet here

 

I think the carbon is from running too rich. The idle was set to 600 until this weekend when I adjusted it to 450 along with appropriate fuel mixture.

 

 

 

 

 

any good way to just spray into cylinders to remove carbon buildup?

[Booger]

If I were you slap the air filter on, (that noise might go away)  some fresh plugs, and drive it. Compression is awesome. put some good gas in it

[plymouthcranbrook]

Sounds ok to me.

[knuckleharley]

When *I* hear a high-pitched whistle,I always look for a vacuum leak.

[greg g]

But a vacuum leak usually cause a ean air fuel mix a vacuum gauge reading might be in order.  I might also check the needle and seat valve and float level.  Does the engine oil smell like gas??? Is the base of the carb wet where it attaches to the intake manifold? At a minimum, I would get the hot heat range plug, assure timing is set, assure that the breaker plate is moving freely the choke is fully opening.

 

I use AC Plugs I believe r45 is the normal heat range so the hotel one is r47.  The hot plug will help clear the carbon.  Change the plugs, put in half a tank of non ethanol premium with something like Lucas fuel treatment.  Put 150 miles on it and read the plugsto see what's up.

 

There is the old set the idle speed to about 800 rpm and spray some water through a Windex bottle into the carb.  Theory here is the steam from the water will break up the carbon and blow it out the exhaust.  The neighbors might call the fire department so warn them ahead of time of you intentions to fog the neighborhood. If you do this use the old plugs, then put the new ones in.

[soth122003]

A bottle of Seafoam and some good gas in the tank will help clean up a lot of the carbon. After a good tune up of course.

 

Joe Lee

[JBNeal]

I vaguely recall reading somewhere that the taller oil bath air filters were used to quiet down the engine compartment a few dBs at WOT... at any rate, ya might need to listen to the engine with the air filter installed to muffle the vacuum noise from the carburetor so ya can hear the engine internals and exhaust.  If you are satisfied with the spark plug performance, just run a fresh gas tank full mixed with Sea Foam, B-12 Chemtool or Marvel Mystery Oil, preferably on a highway cruise (or several) with plenty of hills mixed in with flat stretches, to vary the heat in the combustion chambers...definitely run one of these additives with EACH tankful if the vehicle is not driven daily.  After each diagnostic cruise, read your plugs to see if the results are acceptable.   From experience, I recommend avoiding Champion spark plugs because they are not worth the headaches that they cause...Autolite, AC, and NGK seem to give the most *BANG* for the buck ?

[Marcel Backs]

Your oil pan will also have a carbon accumulation in the bottom. My 218 was also a rich runner before rebuild and rebuilder showed me lots of carbony sludge that came out of the pan. He told me motor was running rich for a long time before I bought the car.

[Sam Buchanan]

8 hours ago, Marcel Backs said:

Your oil pan will also have a carbon accumulation in the bottom. My 218 was also a rich runner before rebuild and rebuilder showed me lots of carbony sludge that came out of the pan. He told me motor was running rich for a long time before I bought the car.

 

Probably also due to the use of non-detergent oil for many decades.

[kencombs]

11 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

 

Probably also due to the use of non-detergent oil for many decades.

yep, likely got infrequent oil changes and used one of the Quaker State or Pennzoil products that were known for that.  And, maybe added oil thickeners when it started to burn oil.  I worked on a 55 Ford back in the day that would only take 3 qts of oil before showing full on the dipstick.  There was that much sludge in it that wouldn't drain out. It's rocker arms were just a big lump of black!   Cheap oil and STP.  It had the infamous Ford Y-block rear main leak and the owner just poured anything in it because it was running out so fast.

[allbizz49]

Throw some fresh plugs and good gas in it like suggested. Little seafoam won't hurt. Go for a good drive. Don't just let it sit and idle, putt around town. Take that sucker out for a good hard drive. I see a lot of these old cars just babied, putting around, lots of idling. In town not being opened up. They need to be opened up now and again, blow that crap out of the motor. Don't abuse it, but give it a romp.

[Tooljunkie]

If you do take carb apart,submerge float in hot water and watch for bubbles. 
buddy cleaned my carb, and i specifically mentioned he do this. He didnt. Engine ran fine,but would load up with gas. Pulled carb apart again, and sure enough float was cracked. Too bad to fix. 
 

a pinhole is easy,first get all the fluid out of the float by heat cycling it. Alternating heat and cold will push whatever is inside out. Not flame type heat.

then polish area to be soldered with some fine sandpaper.
heat float with a heat gun and solder hole with electronic solder and a soldering iron.  Acid core could cause another leak.