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Marcel Backs

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Everything posted by Marcel Backs

  1. The Freewheeling Tony Smith link that Sniper referenced is a MUST for anyone installing a new oil pump. The petroleum gel idea for priming seems to be a pretty damn good one too since it will not drip out during installation and prevent a poor prime. Thanks to everyone for the help! M. PS I am not on facebook but you can print up the 18 pics for the Tony Smith post and pen in the comments since this is a really good reference to keep on file.
  2. Sandblast and use KBS Coatings manifold paint. One half pint (6 oz can) will finish off the intake and exhaust manifolds for about 60 bucks CDN. The finish is unbelievable and will not smoke and powder off eventually. M
  3. I just took delivery of a NOS oil pump for my 218 to replace the poor quality chinese repoop high failure rate model which failed during initial start up. Apart from cleaning it up, I also want to take the cover off to check for dried grease and ensure gasket integrity prior to priming it. Am I missing anything prior to installation? All the Best M PS the NOS one was sent to me in the original Chryco box wrapped in the original wax paper which I found quite cool!
  4. The wiring is indicative of the problem at hand. Get a copy MOTORS auto repair manual to get a better idea on how your fuel gauge works and can be troubleshooted. The manner in which the fuel level indicator system on old mopars was designed was far from ideal leading to finnicky operation. The rusty looking device you are asking about is probably a filter capacitor which is many decades beyond it's best before date. Check out the topic lookup since I have posted all the pertinent data on this subject with the help of colleagues on this site.
  5. Try some of the NOS parts suppliers in Canada. Send me a message for references. I am onto some new parts gold mines that have lots of NOS items. The prices are beaucoup lower than US counterparts.
  6. I replaced all the front sway bar bushings on my straight front axle 39 chevvy with polyurethane ones and the improvement was very noticeable on the ridiculously rough, bumpy and winding roads where I reside.
  7. The big red garbage dragon from the east strikes again! A boycott of suppliers who sell such chinese made rubbish is long overdue! I will be starting mine by purchasing nothing but NOS from now on even if I have to wait. These big suppliers who deal in chinese made trash (pretty much everything that they make) are screwing many people out of hard earned money and enjoyment of the hobby with absolutely no conscience. I don't think anyone will dare to debate that fact. M.
  8. try north of the border you will get more bang for your buck by paying for parts with the worthless canadian peso. Still a good supply of NOS parts available in canada if you know where to look. M
  9. My rebuilder used "Sealed Power" engine rebuild components on my 218. They are proper parts and not off shore repro schwag. Cheap insurance to assure long term reliability! M
  10. also try adding one of the many surfactants out there that helps your coolant transfer heat. I use Purple Ice in my 39 chevvy and lowered the temperature by a good 10 deg. Fahrenheit. has many other benefits for your cooling system components as well.
  11. beautiful car! I have been locating some pretty good NOS parts suppliers for pre ww2 Mopars like yours in Ontario (canadian cars were nD15 as well). With a 72 cent Canadian $ I have been seeking out suppliers of NOS parts in this side of the border. Your car has a manual choke, so there is no need in setting the automatic choke. Give it a little throttle and full choke and start cranking until engine starts. Manually reduce choke from full pretty much as soon as car starts to ensure you do not flood it. If engine has not run in a while pour a little gas in carburetor to get it running and drawing fuel from the tank. Ensure fuel in tank is fresh and clean. If you are looking for different bits for that coupe I can direct you to some pretty cool suppliers. Gotta love those old Mopars! M
  12. I stand corrected on my battery, it is not Military spec. but never missed a start in 15 plus years in 2 different vehicles. However, they do manufacture batteries for the military as well as aircraft, indicative of a higher end product with consistent reliability associated with it. The reliability of this brand in a northern climate with brutal winters backed up with extreme durability does it for me. The fact that it does not off gas is also something very worthwhile.
  13. odyssey is mil spec and made in the states., so I would imagine they are the very best chance you will get at consistent quality over time. I have a 6v Optima that will be replaced by an odyssey when it croaks after about five years of use. I have several of these odyssey batteries in most of my vehicles (Tacoma, diesel tractor and side by side included) and even though I live in a northern climate with brutal winters, not one of these has needed replacement for way over 5 yrs. They do not off gas and can be mounted at pretty much any angle which are two more advantages of this battery type. M
  14. I have had great luck with Odessy AGM batteries with not one failure yet. My battery in my Tacoma is on it's second vehicle after 15 years. I never cheap out on vehicle batteries since the "you get what you pay for" concept directly applies to these devices. M
  15. Thanks for that Greg! Dogs always do their best for people who are kind as you are. You hit the nail on the head when you adopted this fine rascal. M
  16. I have seen (on this site and on the web) dual reservoir master cylinders which do not mess up your pedal arrangement and ups the safety factor on these old cars. Does the performance of the stock drum brakes improve in effectiveness as well ? Anyone have any feedback on this mod? M
  17. I u8sed Hydro-graphics for my D-14 dash woodgrain with excellent results. Very worthwhile looking into with many woodgrain patterns available.
  18. My NOS connection has found 2 oil pumps. 2nd one pictured has part no. 486381 (bottom 2 imaqes) & the 1st one has 1314611-83 stamped on it (top 2 pics) and appears to have a different housing . Can anyone with an interchange manual tell me if either of these would be compatible in fitting my 23 1/4" head 1940 218 engine. The one in the top two images appears to be from an older model engine. The bottom 2 pics show one that may be a little more compatible with the addition of a blocked off port which my parts supplier says may be for an external pressure relief vale or for maybe priming it , All the Best! Marcel PS The 1940 parts list which my buddy was kind enough to lend me indicates part no. 601269 as the pump used by Chrysler for the 23 1/4 " 218 in the D14. Is Melling 37A equivalent?
  19. Looked at FW Tony's process on cleaning up a new oil pump. Pretty intensive for something that the manufacturer deemed useful. Thanks for the insights Sniper! M
  20. I contacted VPW and they suggested that I try calling the guys in Montana and they can provide me with an oil pump that has already been tolarenced. Has anyone gone this route after getting a more than common dud? Have your results been good?
  21. After engine has been broken in can a full synthetic or synthetic blend be used instead of 30W? Synthetic just seems to be far superior oil than the regular stuff. The engine would have had no time to build any sludge and an oil with detergent should have no effect I am assuming.
  22. Yes I seen that on Sniper's link. I find it kinda weird that they sell a part that needs prepping before priming and installation. But WTH the whole damn world is getting weird and moving forward like a slow motion train wreck.
  23. My replacement oil pump which was purchased from a popular supplier seized up due to bad tolerancing at manufacture. What is the best option available to obtain a replacement avoiding the AB variety with a built in failure system? I am hoping to find a NOS but would be happy with a well made American built assembly. Any suggestions from the engine rebuilding crew would be of maximum appreciation. Best to Y'all M
  24. update on oil pump seizure: I took off the oil pan and had a look up at the camshaft which looks unscathed with healthy teeth. I am trying to source a NOS oil pump from a auto parts store which has been around since 1925. I got lucky getting the proper 6v coil for my car there, so I may be lucky a 2nd time. It is fortunate that the oil pump gear was made with cheap scrap like the rest of the assembly and the missing bits found in the oil pan. WHEW!!!!!!
  25. My original radiator developed a leak in the core at some point. Can this core be repaired or is this rad not serviceable due to the obsolete nature of the core design? Can a modern core material be installed onto my tanks by a local rad shop? Radiators seem to be a bit of a challenge for MOPAR compared to the other marques. Input from anyone having already solved this piece of the puzzle would be greatly appreciated. Best Regards, M
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