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Everything posted by Tooljunkie

  1. I think i met someone with 2. One is a convertible, think the price tag was around $80,000 cdn both were refinished/ painted by the owner. Pretty cool cars.
  2. Seems to be a sensible decision. obviously there is a collection with some value. in my case, not so much value, more sentimental than anything else. i was dealing on a ‘65 barracuda before the gentleman passed away. Its basically a parts car, a good donor to finish my car. Kids dont want it, its on the son’s property rotting away. wife wants double what i think its worth, way more than i paid for my solid roller. old guy should have put something on paper. mine simply stipulates it all gets sold,and money divided equally.
  3. I downloaded the tremec app on my phone,fabbed my own perches for my 8-3/8 dodge truck rear end. its such a hassle for the app, basically a pass/fail. So i made driveline level, by jacking diff with perches in place,u bolts loose. pointed diff down 2 degrees if i recall and the app shows it as a pass. Box was off so i put some weight on frame to make up for it.
  4. My old vehicles get tucked in for the winter. A well deserved rest.
  5. If the knobs are a chrome housing with a hard plastic insert, they thread off the steel stem. Trick is the center stays stationary while the metal outer part of knob rotates to thread off. A little back and forth coaxing and it should come undone. The ones in my old trucks came apart easy, and time hasnt been nice to them.
  6. I hate to break it to you, but i think you put the steering column back in the wrong side... all nice and shiny, i like it.
  7. As mentioned, toe plays almost as much a part in this as caster. and i dont recall 40 psi being the correct pressure for bias-ply tires. guess higher pressure lowers rolling resistance. seems you are getting close, and there are so many variables. one change at a time, and make a note of the change. side note, my 2001 pt cruiser has only toe adjustment. After replacing a tie rod end with careful measurement it was difficult to drive,it took 1/2 turn on adjuster to make all the difference. changing caster or camber, toe is always reset last.
  8. If vehicle was manufactured without seat belts, it doesent require them,regardless what seats are in it. I dont need a heater or signal lights either, as it didnt have when it rolled off the assembly line. In the regs i posted above, it mentions seat belts 1970 and up as required. i get it, i may put some in mine, mainly in case i take a kid for a ride. Seat base mounts will be sufficient.
  9. On a side note, i am a journeman automotive mechanic, and certified vehicle inspector in MB. on that note, i no longer inspect vehicles, so i may be out of touch with the current regulations.
  10. On a design/construction note, most seat belts are attatched to body, double thickness sheet metal,and a welded nut on backside. Not thru-bolted to frame. as seat belts arent required in my truck, it wont be getting them. if you choose to use seat belts,fastening to floor with an extra plate may be a better choice. in the event of cab seperating from chassis, i would rather be tethered to the cab.
  11. I really dont see how a 1/2” grade 5 bolt wouldnt be enough for a seat belt.
  12. You had a particular way you wanted it to look. As do i. i knew what i wanted the dash to look like,clean and shiny, along with whole interior. Original patina outside, inside neat and clean.
  13. I bought an esab multiprocess. mig is nice,stick is good. tig, is dc so not reccomended for aluminum. scratch start tig is not the best, but works. But at near 3 grand, its not a cheap welder by any means. If i ever decide to change, it will be blue. I used a miller at work, and it was heads above the other welders. hypertherm for plasma cutter.
  14. Sore thumb syndrome. I cant have any shiny bolts on the outside of this truck. Only reason i finished the lumber is to preserve it. And knocking the shine off all those bolts would be tedious.
  15. Was easier than i expected. Reused the bed strips, crossmembers from a donor box. drilled holes through crossmembers for frame bolts and everything lined up. repurposed wood, was rough sawn pine from my barn attic.
  16. I know this is an old thread, but i found it very helpful to get my box back together. Not a restoration by any means, but to get it to useable condition. thanks for the helpful information. Just need to pick up 6 carriage bolts and make up some washers. i had box standing up on end,squared with a couple ratchet straps and it went together easily. I placed box on frame as an assembly. Very happy with the end result, including removing the plating off the carriage bolts,vinegar works very well.
  17. I used krylon rust paint. Very happy with the end result.
  18. The core hole is smaller where it shoulders into block,can’t remember what size i used when i stuck in the temporary plug. A year ago. I just put in a replacement steel plug. Not the easiest task, i had a heck of a time beating it to seat in block.
  19. Sealing bolts may do it. Wash oil pan and run it. There will be some metal in pan from break in, and tearing it down would be the only way to find what the metal is from. i would see if the filings are ferrous or not by trying to pick them up with a magnet. Tinming chain and gears would wear in, will likely be some metal trace there.
  20. Would think a sway bar fom something like a full size 4x4 may work. Any with a front leaf suspension.
  21. If block is like my 218, i used a jack under the block casting where the pan bolts on. There is a bolt for the timing cover plate that is in from the inside,can only access it when pan is off. Another thing to consider is a timing chain to go with pan gasket, timing cover gasket kit. May as well make it worth the effort. I regret not waiting for a chain before i pulled it apart. her in canada its not that easy to locate a chain on short notice.
  22. I like it. And starter is still in the right place! after doing all the chassis work on mine,i wouldnt go more than a small block dodge in mine. I am suprised how flimsy the frames are. Now that its all behind me, and it runs, i will be on the lookout for another teener.
  23. Thought i would add my version of the glove box as well. Some panelling or subfloor i had lating around, a few pieces of what may have been angle brackets from garage door opener kit. And pop rivets. Came out good for 1st attempt.
  24. I gravity fed mine for most of the winter, moving it in and out of shop and storage. I went straight to the electric fuel pump and will not consider anything else. Ignition switch, oil pressure switch and a prime button.
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