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wagoneer

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Everything posted by wagoneer

  1. https://www.vendio.com/stores/bobsclassicautoglass/product/__template=iphone/lid=34213124 The one 53 says : IT DOES NOT FIT THE 2 DOOR HARDTOP, CONVERTIBLE, STATION WAGON OR THE 8 PASSENGER LIMOUSINE. But then goes on to say contact them and they may have something for you.
  2. have a custom one made - https://www.curvedglasscreations.com/custom-auto-glass
  3. I've found a few miller tools on ebay; they are the best. With so many MOPARS over 30 years, you have to wonder where all those original tools went?! Maybe just rusted away or tossed in a cleanup somewhere.
  4. Have you tried to ground the left top starter solenoid (not the wire from starter). At least on my 48 it's grounded directly.
  5. This one sold for $9k. What a steal! Original ash wood kept in dry storage in New Mexico for decades. I don't have $9k to spare, but I know this is one of the ones that I let slip by... 1947 was the last of the greatest Chrysler woodies because it was wood through and through on the doors. In 48, the doors were filled in with metal door inserts. Whoever bought it got great one.
  6. I'm sorry to hear about Wayne. I came across his website in the early days of my Chrysler ownership, and it was honestly unbelievable to know that someone was building replacement floorpans and body parts for our beloved mopars. A true craftsman of a time gone by. Rest in peace, and condolences for his family.
  7. So nice! I’m surprised it went corn only $10k. Such a clean and well done 50. I like the 12v update.
  8. Okay? So I replaced my generator with an alternator; no A terminal anymore - where does that wire go now? And is that A terminal wire the same post as the the starter wire? And the. The top left post is wired to negative terminal (hot)?! I don’t see that in the Chrysler wiring diagram which is like your desoto wiring diagram. my solenoid wasn’t going until I connected top left to engine ground . Do I have mine wired backwards?!
  9. @JBNeal I’m curious about the economics of this site. Does it get enough ad revenue to pay the hosting and traffic costs?
  10. I am hosting most files already here but a few I’m missing if we ha e a complete set somewhere I can host them too. https://d1c1t090laorfk.cloudfront.net/
  11. 1 day left in this auction for this sweet looking 1947 woodie . Needs front end but the body looks stunning. https://tomhallauctions.hibid.com/lot/164895694/1947-chrysler-town-and-country-sedan?ref=catalog
  12. There is a ground from the left top post that connects in stock configurations to the b post on the voltage regulator. It’s a ground . You have a solenoid post going to the negative terminal instead of positive ground/b terminal . my solenoid doesn’t turn unless I have this ground .
  13. I rewired mine too and also upsides. Upsizing turned painful as I had to find the right size fittings for the larger gauge wiring. The impetus was adding a 60 amp alternator. i bet that cleaned up the wiring behind your gauge cluster and radio . What a mess . For being so “simple” it’s a pain to screw in those nuts behind the gauges and get them all tight. whwre did you get your 6v fuses from? Or I guess taking from another thread that higher voltage is okay just the amps count.
  14. Which kit did you buy for a 6v fuse box system? I required my car mostly, and I really think a fuse box would have simplified the wiring instead of piling it all onto the ammeter , main light switch, or the fuel gauge .
  15. What a fascinating history of this air raid siren. Chrysler took a B3B truck, chopped it, and connected up 12 foot horns. Super cool!
  16. That's a real pretty setup of carbs @Sniper . @Neira I figure we could forgo the semi-automatic capability and install those push button upshift/downshift that wire to the same points that the carb uses. I have one connected to the end of my turn signal stalk (there's a manual somewhere here on the site), but I would love to learn a bit more about how the controller can be used to mimic the fluid drive BB1 carb controls.
  17. You must go and watch the mtsc videos on the fluid drive transmission. The Vacamatic is the predecessor but the components are essentially the same just using vacuum instead of electrical impulses. https://mymopar.com/mtsc-1948-volume-a1-checking-the-hydraulically-operated-transmission/ https://mymopar.com/mtsc-1948-volume-a-the-hydraulically-operated-transmission/
  18. This is very cool but will require a few modifications to fit the oxygen sensor plus 12 volts. Sadly not in scope for my fluid drive. Is there any kind of carb replacement//upgrade for the old B&Bs?
  19. So would this work for a gyromatic/m5 fluiddrive system too? I guess it still is a semi automatic with clutch but now getting the full Torque of the engine?
  20. One day FD seals will run out and this will be the only way… great trick Thanks so much @James_Douglas
  21. Given that the size seems to be a shaved 5/16”. Is there a definitive size for the PIN/Male wrench? Maybe 9/32”? Or based on the links above an 8 or 7mm metric ? What was the “official” tool from Chrysler? Some miller tool?
  22. It’s a pretty sweet looking job you’ve done. I don’t have a definitive answer for you but I’m general I’ve seen upholsterers use spray glue and tape across these boundaries to get a smooth uniform look especially to tuck into the crevices like you have to get that lined look. Generally the baggy headliner look happens when the glue goes, so lots of glue and staples?
  23. What I find interesting is how nominally complex jobs like replacing all the synchronizers in the trans were so “normal” then, and presumably relatively affordable while the same now is major surgery and costs a fortune today. I like the dialog between the gruff mechanic having to get the job done, and the parts guy who just wants to learn. In the background a smorgasbord of interesting vehicles . I guess it was always in my mind that these jobs we struggle with were simple one-two hour jobs for the trained mechanic.
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