New member

[Muganic]

Hi all, have just joined this site and am impressed with all the information and knowledge available here. I have purchased a 49 Dodge D32S Special Deluxe and of course have a few questions. Location of a chassis number? It has an alloy tag on the firewall but is there a stamped number somewhere? There was no jack with the car and believe the original is a bumper jack, but figure a small trolley jack will do the job? Keen to find out the differences in the different variants of these cars.

Cheers

Bill

[Roger the Dodger]

Welcome to the Forum Bill. That's a very nice car. I am another Aussie in Vic, I drive a 1955 DeSoto. I am sure you will get plenty of the info from the members here.

Edited January 11, 2021 by Roger the Dodger
add to it.

[Andydodge]

No, No ......not another damn Aussie!!!..........lol..........time was when I was the only one or one of the few...........gee its GREAT to have a few, in all seriousness, Welcome Aboard.......I'm in sunny South Grafton, NSW North Coast............can you give a few details of your car?......I assume that its a 25" long engine as most were here in Oz?..........what sort of trans?.......also did  you know that the fluted bumpers are actually US 1949 Plymouth bumper bars and as was common here a number of Plymouth parts were used by Oz Mopar over all 3 brands, Plymouth,Dodge & DeSoto here in Oz, together with both the 23" and 25" engines even in the same year.......it all gets confusing sometimes.........but thats a very nice 1949 Dodge you have.......got any more pics......we all love pics.......lol............welcome & regards , Andy Douglas 

[Muganic]

Thanks for the welcome guys, the Dodge has a 25” flathead, 3 speed manual trans and leather interior. I’m trying to build up a bit more knowledge on this era as I have a bit more knowledge about the 60’s plus. Love the more basic mechanics of these cars. A few more photos, I know what you mean  - photos are good.

Cheers

Bill

[DJK]

Rumor has it that those battery switches don't carry enough current for the 6v system, I removed mine and keep a 1/2 wrench secured by a magnet near the battery for disconnecting, still have original wiring in my 52 Cranbrook. Also be sure to use O gauge wires at battery and starter solenoid to starter. Very nice looking  vehicle by the way and welcome.

[P15-D24]

3 hours ago, DJK said:

Rumor has it that those battery switches don't carry enough current for the 6v system, I removed mine and keep a 1/2 wrench secured by a magnet near the battery for disconnecting, still have original wiring in my 52 Cranbrook. Also be sure to use O gauge wires at battery and starter solenoid to starter. Very nice looking  vehicle by the way and welcome.

Second the issue with the cutoff switch. 

[busycoupe]

I've used one of those cut-off switches for over 10 years with no problems.  Several times after starting the car I have put my hand on the switch to seeif it was warm, but it was just as cool as the cables.  I think that clean connection and properly sized cables aremore important. 

[Muganic]

The car starts easily, seems like it’s getting plenty of current, but I notice the battery is connected negative to earth. The ammeter operates backwards, needle moves to left when charging indicated. The coil is connected positive side to distributor, from what I’ve read it should be negative to distributor if the system is connected negative earth? If I leave it negative earth to fix the ammeter is it just a matter of changing wires from side to side? Any other issues with polarity negative earth?

[Sniper]

Well, it appears someone was messing about where they shouldn't have, lol.  You can swap the wires on the ammeter to fix the needle deflection issue and the same on the coil.  Any other issues?  i dunno unless you have a radio in it everything else won't care.  Not real sure how the generator is handling it though.

[Muganic]

I think I’ll just change the polarity back to what it should be at the battery, easiest correct option and just assume someone connected it that way because negative earth is usually correct for most things nowadays.

[Sam Buchanan]

23 minutes ago, Muganic said:

I think I’ll just change the polarity back to what it should be at the battery, easiest correct option and just assume someone connected it that way because negative earth is usually correct for most things nowadays.

 

Sounds like a plan.  ?

[Sniper]

I ran into a guy that had a 51 Chevy that looked like a brother to my Plymouth.  While looking it over I noticed he had the negative hooked to the engine.  I didn't say anything as I am not much of a GM guy.  As it turns out GM had negative grounds back then.  It was hit or miss back then as to who was negative and who was positive ground.

[Los_Control]

Dang gm never had a positive ground. Even though positive ground was used by others and seemed to be better then negative ground.

 

Was in the 50's they wanted to make some uniformity so all car manufacturers matched.

Chebby came out with the sbc, it was a big hit and all others went with negative ground because chebby was the leader at the time.

 

We all know positive ground is better, just the way the cards were dealt.

[TodFitch]

1 hour ago, Sniper said:

I ran into a guy that had a 51 Chevy that looked like a brother to my Plymouth.  While looking it over I noticed he had the negative hooked to the engine.  I didn't say anything as I am not much of a GM guy.  As it turns out GM had negative grounds back then.  It was hit or miss back then as to who was negative and who was positive ground.

 

33 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

Dang gm never had a positive ground. Even though positive ground was used by others and seemed to be better then negative ground.

 

Was in the 50's they wanted to make some uniformity so all car manufacturers matched.

Chebby came out with the sbc, it was a big hit and all others went with negative ground because chebby was the leader at the time.

 

We all know positive ground is better, just the way the cards were dealt.

 

I was under the impression that GM brands varied on being positive or negative ground. I vaguely recall Buick being positive ground in the 1920s or 30s. But am pretty sure Chevrolet was negative ground, at least in the late 1930s. This from memories from decades ago when I helped some people with cars other than Mopar. But my memory could be wrong.

 

And my personal library is pretty limited on things other than Plymouth. The only thing that shows this in my library is my Chilton’s Auto Repair Guide for 1940-53 where the information on voltage regulator specifications shows system polarity.

 

Buick - 1940 through 53, negative ground.

Cadillac - 1940 through 42, positive ground. 1946 through 53, negative ground.

Chevrolet - 1940 through 53, negative ground.

Oldsmobile - 1940 through 53, negative ground.

Pontiac - 1940 through 53, negative ground.

 

So at least one GM make used positive ground before the war. I am guessing that my memory of the 1920s Buick being positive ground is correct and that they changed in the 1930s.

 

Interesting to note that the remaining independent makes (Hudson, Kaiser-J, Nash, Packard, Studebaker, Willys, etc.) all seemed to be positive ground.

[Los_Control]

45 minutes ago, TodFitch said:

So at least one GM make used positive ground before the war.

Thanks for the info, I am repeating the story as told to me from my late Uncle.

Seems Cadillac did use it for a bit, I am sure he was a Ford guy and never owned a Cadillac back then. At 16 years old.

[Hamilton]

It's interesting how Chrysler apparently combined parts from different marques on their ROW cars.  The tail lights, fender protectors, bumpers and radio-delete plate appear to be right off a Plymouth.   I'm sure there's more but those items jumped out at me immediately.

_

[DakotaFrank]

“Dang gm never had a positive ground. Even though positive ground was used by others and seemed to be better then negative ground.”

 

GMC has positive ground until they went to 12v, then negative ground.  That tricks some old Chevy truck guys who assume they are the same.  

 

Muganic, Nice Car.  Congrats!!  I have a question: what is the shift pattern?  Low back towards the steering wheel, then down.  Second up to neutral, then forward, then up. High straight down?  Thanks. 

[Andydodge]

My RHD 1941 Plymouth used what I understood to be a standard 3 speed shift pattern(see attached pic)...........back towards the driver then down for 1st, up, then up to neutral and forward to the dash then up for 2nd then straight down towards the floor for 3rd or top..........reverse was back up from 3rd to the neutral position in the centre then back towards the driver then up into reverse..........a standard "H" pattern........my 1940 Dodge Sedan had this pattern when stock, before I hotrodded it in 1973..........I'd think that this would be the same for Muganic's 49 Dodge............andyd

[Muganic]

DakotaFrank - pretty much as Andyd has said, although when going from 1st to 2nd the movement is more straight up without a noticeable movement toward the dash as you go through neutral, it seems to line itself up, as it does going down to third.

[greg g]

Two important numbers, the engine number stamped into the flat spot on the block above the generator. And the serial number located on one of the "A" pillars between the door hinges.  The body number was a subcontractors sequence number either assigned by Briggs manufacturing in the US or JR or is it TR Richards if bodied over there.  Your Dodge is a Plymouth frame and sheet metal with Dodge trim.  The leather interiors were usually a convertible only deal in the US with no leather optional for closed cars except maybe taxis and police cars.  The dash board and window surrounds most likely were woodgrained and have been changed by previous owners.  There should be a stamped number on the left side frame rail over the axle that mirrors the original installed engine number.  Most of these were sent over as knockdowns, a frame running gear along with a crate of parts to escape taxes and tarriffs on complete vehicles.  As far as the polarity some body probably realize positive ground was a thing.  Just swap the leads at the battery, if you ammeter now reads positive you should be old to go.  The coil pls terminal should go to the distributor.  Welcome and good luck.  Your next purchase should be a factory service manual either an original or one of the reproductions available on e bay.  If you spot a parts book grab one of those also, the exploded drawings are a great resource for getting to understand how stuff works internally and or with other components.

Edited January 14, 2021 by greg g

[Muganic]

Thanks greg g - great info. T J Richards was the body builder over here in Oz. Andy d pointed out that the bumpers are Plymouth. Cannot find a body number on either A pillar as yet, wondering if it has been covered with spray putty. Will take wheel off to check number on chassis. Have changed battery polarity back to positive earth and all is good. I have a factory service manual coming courtesy of the previous owner and will look for a parts book.

Cheers

Bill

[Andydodge]

The Oz factory Service Manual should be that published by Scientific Publications....it is a fairly basic manual and covers 1946 to 1953.........I have yet to see an Oz Parts Manual for any 36-62 Oz mopar although I have seen a US published 1940 RHD Dodge Part number book.........I purchased a US 36-42 Plymouth Parts Manual when I had my 1941 plymouth Coupe and I would strongly suggest you chase one of these for your Dodge simply as it should have pics of every concievable part and their relevant part number.........I found it great for not only the 41 Plymouth but as the 1940 Oz Dodge was plymouth based it helped with various parts it used, although being hot rodded it was purely for my own interest............if you don't get the right workshop manual let me know & I can copy bits if needed......

............from the Oz Shop Manual the 1949 Dodge D32 Serial Number should be between 98,000,001 and 98,012,317....this should be on a small metal plate, about 1/2 wide by 2" long on the Oz Drivers side front door pillar.......there may have been a TJ Richards bo0dy serial number plate on the top of the firewall on the engine side in front of the passenger.........that "red" plate on the firewall has me intriqued..........is it an Oz plate?..........does it mention an Oz assembly plant?......or does it refer to a USA build?.........reason I ask is that it does appear to be similar to those used on USA built cars.....also does the car have Overdrive?.............Leather interiors were standard fixtures in Oz Dodge cars......does it have a center folding armrest on the rear seat?........this feature was also part of the "upmarket" Oz Dodges............lol..................andyd        

[greg g]

What number is on your ownership documents???

[Muganic]

Andy d - is a 36-42 parts book suitable for my car? I have a 46-53 Scientific Publications Service manual on the way. I can’t find a tag as described with a serial number on A pillars - unless they are inside under the trim. Photo of the red plate and tag attached. I received some paperwork with the car that lists the Vehicle number as being 98002756 that sounds right for the car. How is overdrive activated on these cars - I haven’t found it if it’s there. No centre folding armrest in rear seat.

greg g the car has been registered using the engine number and the body number on the alloy tag as the inspector could not find the serial number.

cheers

[greg g]

If your car has an overdrive, it should have a push pull cable somewhere on the dash board.  There should also be a relay on the firewall or inner fender with  an intregal glass tube 20 amp fuse.  Take a look at the transmission it self, it should have two cylindrical assemblies with wiring attached one is the solenoid the other is the governor.  No cylinders, no OD.  Is this car a three speed manually shifted vehicle? In US Plymouth didn't get OD till 50 or 51, but Dodge and Desotodid have them earlier, who knows what the permutations were in Australia.