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Posted
10 hours ago, pflaming said:

Posts on the need for a strong battery  always interest me because these engines were designed to start with ONE pull of a HAND CRANK.   So then, any battery that will turn the engine one revolution will start that engine if it is tuned properly.

 

 

 

So then....as your words state is a very large gap....and any battery that will turn the engine one rev will not necessarily start an engine...along with such things as you state, proper tune, you have voltage drops due to poor grounds and internal cabling, you have issues such as worn starter bushing that will drag the armature on the field winding that will rob a battery of all reserve leaving a motor struggling to rotate and no reserve amperage for the ignition.  While it can struggle like this a few grinds on the starter again, reserve capacity does not exist for the ignition...this is where so many folks go wrong in diagnostics thinking things are bad when in fact they just being electrically starved.

Posted

We have a battery store called Battery Warehouse......they carry a 6 volt battery......seems like the last one cost me

75 to 80 dollars.   I don't recall what the guarantee/warranty time was -- as they usually last me three or four years

sitting idle most of the time.  Can't recall the brand name......they attach a name sticker to them at the store.....

which I remove soon as I get home......to make the battery match my black and silver underhood color scheme.   

Posted

 Plymouthy is right, yet if things are in good repair, then the engine will start on the first revolution.

 

That is how my truck starts, I don't even have to get in the cab. I replaced the stomp starter with a solenoid and a button/ignition key start. The quick start really impresses onlookers it also saves wear on the battery and starter. I still have my six volt starter, the new wiring is 12 volt. 

Posted
6 minutes ago, Jerry Roberts said:

If you don't get in the cab to start your truck , don't let the onlookers stand in front . Your truck might be in gear . They wouldn't be too impressed with that . ?    

and then again, in today's society....maybe they would be......:eek:

Posted

I had the start button near the driver door like the late 40's Plymouth's do, but it was too temping, as you note,  so I moved it to center dash. 

Posted
On 5/19/2018 at 9:59 AM, Plymouthy Adams said:

 

So then....as your words state is a very large gap....and any battery that will turn the engine one rev will not necessarily start an engine...along with such things as you state, proper tune, you have voltage drops due to poor grounds and internal cabling, you have issues such as worn starter bushing that will drag the armature on the field winding that will rob a battery of all reserve leaving a motor struggling to rotate and no reserve amperage for the ignition.  While it can struggle like this a few grinds on the starter again, reserve capacity does not exist for the ignition...this is where so many folks go wrong in diagnostics thinking things are bad when in fact they just being electrically starved.

So true.  To illustrate, back in the '60s I worked with a guy that had a very early Datsun pickup.  A little 1200cc four banger.  It still had a crank in the cab and slot in the bumper to fit it to the crankshaft.  It would never start on very cold mornings using the starter.  But, turn the key on and turn the engine with the crank and it would always fire up.  Using a voltmeter on the coil he found that there was barely any voltage available when the starter was cranking.    But the engine turned fine. 

Posted

The tractors and other engine powered machines had magnitoes, so the crank was a way of life. I've cranked many a farm engine. Those cranks were permanently mounted. 

Posted

I've cranked a few tractor engines over with a crank myself and still prefer a working starter.

 

Most 6V batteries today are used in farm, industrial or commercial applications and because of the abuse inherent in those applications, warranties have a very short  time frame.  Few of those tractors using "squarish" 6V batteries are still being used for crop production today as opposed to 30 or 40 years ago and the more urban your locale, the less likely you're to find them stocked on any shelf.  Since most of us in this hobby don't really need one immediately, a day or two wait shouldn't be that big a deal.

 

Optima direct pricing is a price protection for it's retailers, and helps pay for staff to handle shipping customer service and warranty claims..

 

As far as pricing, yes they seem to go up in pricing often.  You should also notice the core values have been going up as well..  Be glad you're not buying a battery pack for a hybrid.  Price one of those out sometime and ask if anyone is stocking those on the shelf.

Posted
18 minutes ago, Dave72dt said:

Be glad you're not buying a battery pack for a hybrid.  Price one of those out sometime and ask if anyone is stocking those on the shelf.

 

That happened to us in the early 2000's on a first gen Honda Insight. Battery went "pfft" at about 140k miles. Kudos to Honda North America. Total cost to customer, $0. Wife just picked up a 2018 Accord. She's a customer for life. I'm driving an Econoline. ?

Posted

I just picked up another Dura-Start battery from our local Campbell Supply store (LOCAL CHAIN). It was 47.99 with core. It is the same battery i had in there for 7 years (2010 date code). Last year it was getting tired, but still started the car. They also had larger tractor batteries for $65ish. Check online for a Dura Start rep near you.

Posted
On ‎5‎/‎18‎/‎2018 at 11:51 PM, pflaming said:

Posts on the need for a strong battery  always interest me because these engines were designed to start with ONE pull of a HAND CRANK.   So then, any battery that will turn the engine one revolution will start that engine if it is tuned properly.

 

If drivers in the 40's and early 50's stalled out when on the road with a bad battery, the hand crank got them started and on the way. To prove this, I'm going to put a crank gear on my Suburban drive shaft, buy a crank, and when I show my Suburban to a surfer, I will start the engine with the crank to prove to him that a bad battery will not leave him stranded on some remote beach. 

Result may be one broken arm.

Posted

I remember my dad telling me that when cranking a car, do not close the hand around the crank, or the thumb may be broken by a backfire. Engage the crank with the handle at the bottom, and lift only.   

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Posted
On 5/18/2018 at 11:51 PM, pflaming said:

Posts on the need for a strong battery  always interest me because these engines were designed to start with ONE pull of a HAND CRANK.

 

If drivers in the 40's and early 50's stalled out when on the road with a bad battery, the hand crank got them started and on the way. 

maybe in the 20s and 30s.......you would have to punch a hole thru your radiator to hand crank my D-24 or your Suburban.......

 

Posted

I had a 1948 Seagrave fire engine with the 468" Pierce-Arrow sourced V12. It had a hand crank and could be started quite easily with it (after I tuned it up).

Posted

Our '37 Terraplane has the "auxiliary" hand crank.  Doubles as the lug wrench.  While it's laid up I use the crank to cycle the engine a few turns at least once a week to keep the cork faced wet clutch lubed up, or else the clutch disc will stick to the flywheel and pressure plate, (as it was when we bought the car).  Bought a new 6v battery for the D24 the year before last at Tractor Supply Co.  Good commercial grade with more cranking amps than one from any of the local auto parts stores, with a two year warranty.  If I recall correctly, it was $79, but don't recall the brand name.  Had to buy a new battery for the riding mower last night, same place.  $60...sheesh!

Posted

Those battery holders are out of site they must be made of some kind of precious metal or something. Can't see spending that kind of money just to hide a battery.  By the way Paul I would like to see that hand crank maybe that's the way I should go.

Posted

The only thing better than a 6V optima........   TWO.......

 

$ 170 on amazon today....  got mine last year for $125/Battery ....  other than the look of the battery .....  I'm glad i got mine ....  The 6V fleet farm batteries failed like clock work every 2 years....  Car fired right up after its 6 month slumber sitting in storage.....

 

Good Luck ~dbolt

IMG_6406.jpg

Posted
10 minutes ago, Dbolter said:

The only thing better than a 6V optima........   TWO.......

 

$ 170 on amazon today....  got mine last year for $125/Battery ....  other than the look of the battery .....  I'm glad i got mine ....  The 6V fleet farm batteries failed like clock work every 2 years....  Car fired right up after its 6 month slumber sitting in storage.....

 

Good Luck ~dbolt

 

I wonder what the difference is. Last spring my truck was acting up so I checked out the battery. It was dated 2008! I did splurge on the Optima at that point but I'm just not sure I can justify triple the price this time

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