lucky13 Posted May 3, 2020 Report Posted May 3, 2020 For those that did the Cherokee rear end swap, what did you do for the rear rubber brake hose? Did you hookup the parking brake cables? Thanks in advance Quote
48ply1stcar Posted May 4, 2020 Author Report Posted May 4, 2020 (edited) 5 hours ago, lucky13 said: For those that did the Cherokee rear end swap, what did you do for the rear rubber brake hose? Did you hookup the parking brake cables? Thanks in advance I'm staying with the parking brake on the transmission and I'll check and see if I can figure out what brake hose was used. I had my swap done, I wanted it done long before I started this thread 5 years ago. Edited May 4, 2020 by 48ply1stcar Quote
lucky13 Posted May 5, 2020 Report Posted May 5, 2020 I'm doing the cherokee axle swap on my 54, but also swapping engine/trans so I'm gonna lose the parking brake Quote
classiccarjack Posted May 5, 2020 Report Posted May 5, 2020 On 1/29/2015 at 6:35 PM, 48ply1stcar said: I see on The Ranger Station, link from Smokybear that their is mention of a 2 inch offset. Does it in anyway affect the drive shaft tunnel, or is that something that is a nominal amount. With progress getting slower and slower I'm allready a year behind just on getting the engine runnig with a front seat back in the car. Anyone in favor of the Cherokee rear axle? That "offset" is what turns me off in regards to the 8.8 conversion. It looks weird from the rear of the car. I know it works... But... Quote
Adam H P15 D30 Posted May 5, 2020 Report Posted May 5, 2020 2 hours ago, classiccarjack said: That "offset" is what turns me off in regards to the 8.8 conversion. It looks weird from the rear of the car. I know it works... But... The offset really isn't an issue. If your running a low HP engine the Cherokee axle will be fine, if you're going to put any power down the 8.8 would be a better option. Most V8 transplants require an offset to the right anyhow. 2 Quote
classiccarjack Posted May 10, 2020 Report Posted May 10, 2020 On 5/5/2020 at 11:15 AM, Adam H P15 D30 said: The offset really isn't an issue. If your running a low HP engine the Cherokee axle will be fine, if you're going to put any power down the 8.8 would be a better option. Most V8 transplants require an offset to the right anyhow. If I make changes, it will be to a 8 3/4". It's my favorite axle set up. Quote
Sharps40 Posted May 12, 2020 Report Posted May 12, 2020 (edited) 1937. Dodge d5 4 door sedan 71 chevy Malibu 12 bolt w 225 75r15 tires. Wheels 15x6. 3.75 back space 37 dodge rear springs Just weld the dodge perches on the chev axle Good fit, fills the wells, good clearance with the tires Edited May 12, 2020 by Sharps40 Quote
Bobb Horn Posted May 18, 2020 Report Posted May 18, 2020 I measured from the outside brake drum to brake drum where the wheels bolt on, on my 38, and the Jeep rear. The Jeep seems to be about 1/4 inch wider.... Quote
CaptChris Posted October 1, 2020 Report Posted October 1, 2020 Hey y'all, I'm searching for rear Wheel Mounting surface dimension for 1950 Chrysler Windsor. Doing the axle swap this winter and am planning on a ford 9", even if it's overkill with the 340. Heading out to Carlisle tomorrow to see if I can find something close to what I need. I just measured 55 3/4" for backing plate to backing plate dimension. Is a change in width necessary if I choose to do disc brakes? Advice is appreciated, thanks. Quote
Sniper Posted October 1, 2020 Report Posted October 1, 2020 Discs tend to widen the track somewhat, how much pretty much depends on the thickness of the rotors you use. What you really need is the axle flange to axle flange measurement, you can subtract for rotor thickness (times 2 as there are 2 rotors). Don't forget leaf spring perch center to center measurements. I know that can be dealt with but it's sure sweet when you can find an axle that'll just work as is. Other than that, sorry I can't help. Quote
CaptChris Posted October 1, 2020 Report Posted October 1, 2020 Thanks Sniper. I still need Wheel Mounting surface dimension for stock ‘50 Chrysler Windsor with stock wheels. Local hot rodder/body shop owner told me all I needed was flange dimension and spring center to center, but after reading up want to arm myself with WMS dimension. Not near my car, and I do feel stupid for not measuring this prior, so I’m kicking this up top again for somebody to notice. Quote
Adam H P15 D30 Posted October 1, 2020 Report Posted October 1, 2020 I take it you do not have the old rear axle? What I do is place my final rims and tires under the car where I want them with the car at ride height. Measure between the rims for the WMS distance. Quote
Los_Control Posted October 1, 2020 Report Posted October 1, 2020 The 9" is the king of the hill, pretty popular and custom axles and gear sets are available. Same time it seems the Ford explorer 8.8 is a very common swap, width fits well without modification, is very strong, it has a zillion different gear choices, your choice to have disk or drum brakes, bolt pattern is correct. Plenty of them at your local wrecking yard .... I had a explorer with the V6, that thing had some decent horse power. I followed a forum thread where a teacher built a explorer for 1/4 mile racing as a class project. V8 turbo charger etc ... He got to the point he was stretching head bolts and burn a quart of coolant on a pass, he fixed that and tore up the transmission then fixed that and went with a bigger turbo next ... never had a rear end issue with it. I do not know the exact width of either one the Chrysler or the explorer, seems they are within 1"-2" inches of each other. You do have a little bit of room to fudge with. Going with the 9" You will want to measure what you have, maybe you can ask someone near the car to measure for you? I know a 51 plymouth is 2" narrower then my 49 dodge truck, your Chrysler may be the same width as either one ... will need someone with same car and wheels off to get what you need. Quote
CaptChris Posted October 1, 2020 Report Posted October 1, 2020 Got a buddy to go pop the wheels off and measure. He told me WMS is 60 7/8”. So figured I’d post it for anybody needing that info. Thanks for advice Adam and Los Control. I’m doing a 9” because it leaves me an option for a bigger engine in the future. Quote
Mr Stewart Posted January 27, 2022 Report Posted January 27, 2022 So what about factory track bar? Do you guys still use it? And on the 8.8 explorer swap I have the factory say bar and the factory traction bars... did anybody use these? I think I have room right now.. Quote
48ply1stcar Posted January 27, 2022 Author Report Posted January 27, 2022 9 hours ago, Mr Stewart said: So what about factory track bar? Do you guys still use it? And on the 8.8 explorer swap I have the factory say bar and the factory traction bars... did anybody use these? I think I have room right now.. I use a straight-up axle swap with the Cherokee Dana 35, see solution. Quote
DJ194950 Posted January 28, 2022 Report Posted January 28, 2022 I know that this was solved, but thought I my link some info on the Ford Explorer/ranger rear info and recently found while looking to update my 50 Suburban rear end (my old project car with a Chevy rear now) wrong ratio and is very loose. The Ford Explorer 8.8-Inch Axle Swap . Will also spend some more time soon on looking for the Jeep various rearend soon as may post if good info. Pls , no hate mails! ? DJ 1 Quote
Booger Posted January 28, 2022 Report Posted January 28, 2022 (edited) Ive been up down all around with the axle swap thing For me makes more sense to have something made new for the same price of a junkyard axle swap. (what are you getting? its in a junkyard ) Those of you that can bolt up a cherokee rear axle , fine. You guys with the nice garages and shops . great. I hate you Edited January 28, 2022 by Booger spel 1 Quote
Young Ed Posted January 28, 2022 Report Posted January 28, 2022 Depends on what you can find. I bought my diff for $40 Quote
allbizz49 Posted January 28, 2022 Report Posted January 28, 2022 Pick n Pulls are full of Cherokees. Rear ends are 120 bucks unless you go on a half price day. Lots of Rangers and Explorers too if you want to go that route Quote
48ply1stcar Posted January 30, 2022 Author Report Posted January 30, 2022 On 1/27/2022 at 9:06 PM, Booger said: Ive been up down all around with the axle swap thing For me makes more sense to have something made new for the same price of a junkyard axle swap. (what are you getting? its in a junkyard ) Those of you that can bolt up a cherokee rear axle , fine. You guys with the nice garages and shops . great. I hate you As you can see, I had mine done in Anoka. I'm too old to try this in a garage, or on my own. AA Driveline used to have a video of making a replacement driveshaft for a old Valiant. That's why I went to them. Quote
rcl700 Posted September 19 Report Posted September 19 When doing an 8.8 rear axle swap, what is used to mount the rear shock plate? Can the factory plymouth shock mount plate be reused? If changing the axle, will the new bolts fit the factory plate? Quote
belvedere666 Posted September 19 Report Posted September 19 15 minutes ago, rcl700 said: When doing an 8.8 rear axle swap, what is used to mount the rear shock plate? Can the factory plymouth shock mount plate be reused? If changing the axle, will the new bolts fit the factory plate? On my 50, the shock studs are on the Spring perches. I had to have new spring perches welded onto the new axle. I couldn't find any that already had the right shock stud built-in, so I had to have shock studs welded to the new spring perches to imitate the old set up. I tried to use the lower spring plates from a P15 That have the shock stud built-in, and the position just didn't work because of the upper shock mount position on a 50. Depending on the year you have, there might be different solutions. Quote
rcl700 Posted September 19 Report Posted September 19 7 hours ago, belvedere666 said: On my 50, the shock studs are on the Spring perches. I had to have new spring perches welded onto the new axle. I couldn't find any that already had the right shock stud built-in, so I had to have shock studs welded to the new spring perches to imitate the old set up. I tried to use the lower spring plates from a P15 That have the shock stud built-in, and the position just didn't work because of the upper shock mount position on a 50. Depending on the year you have, there might be different solutions. Thank you for the followup. For anyone that has done the axle swap on a 46-48, what did you use for lower shock mount? Does anyone have pictures of this modification? As always, thank you in advance for any information you can provide Quote
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