Jump to content

CaptChris

Members
  • Posts

    33
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

8 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Long Island NY
  • Interests
    Vintage Harleys
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Chrysler Windsor Newport

Converted

  • Location
    NY
  • Interests
    HARLEY

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    Boat Capt.

Recent Profile Visitors

1,064 profile views
  1. I have no brake lights since messing with and changing out the steering stem. I’m assuming I have these plugged in incorrectly. Does anybody have a good photo of the colors and where they go? Thanks in advance.
  2. Got a buddy to go pop the wheels off and measure. He told me WMS is 60 7/8”. So figured I’d post it for anybody needing that info. Thanks for advice Adam and Los Control. I’m doing a 9” because it leaves me an option for a bigger engine in the future.
  3. Thanks Sniper. I still need Wheel Mounting surface dimension for stock ‘50 Chrysler Windsor with stock wheels. Local hot rodder/body shop owner told me all I needed was flange dimension and spring center to center, but after reading up want to arm myself with WMS dimension. Not near my car, and I do feel stupid for not measuring this prior, so I’m kicking this up top again for somebody to notice.
  4. Hey y'all, I'm searching for rear Wheel Mounting surface dimension for 1950 Chrysler Windsor. Doing the axle swap this winter and am planning on a ford 9", even if it's overkill with the 340. Heading out to Carlisle tomorrow to see if I can find something close to what I need. I just measured 55 3/4" for backing plate to backing plate dimension. Is a change in width necessary if I choose to do disc brakes? Advice is appreciated, thanks.
  5. I’m pretty curious about the outcome of the Saginaw 525 box compared to stock. Is the ratio different than stock? Are they easier to steer? My car is a bit of a bear for slow and tight turning. I also have some slop in my wheel and am wondering if I should just swap to a better box than rebuild the original Gemmers unit.
  6. Yes I considered that, but wanted to keep the car original. Haha just kidding. I would have needed an adapter piece for a Heim and at first look it appeared it also would take up some decent real estate, but definitely another way to go.
  7. After bending, it’s still close but isn’t touching anywhere, yes even with engine running.
  8. Drag link in. $70 and some time to get it right. My setup needed a slight bend to clear the starter mount. Only thing I will change in the future is to find a tie rod end that has side grease fittings instead of on top. Photo of before bend,
  9. Also, I ordered a fixed length that they sell and not the custom length, saves ya like $50. I used a lathe to nip down each end about 3/4”. 916-32504 part number from Speedway. I’ll post a pic when she is mounted and working.
  10. This is where I am currently, picked up an 11/16 drag link from Speedway. The ford type rod ends came with it for about $60. I would have used the 5/8 bar from Speedway but the 11/16 rod ends had the closest dimensions, in terms of shank size (small end & large end), to the stock part I am replacing.
  11. Not worried about stock, whatever works!
  12. I hear ya, but in fact from what I have seen this past week, they are called a Drag Link. It goes from steering box forward to a kind of pivot arm. It has tie rod type ends on it that are not adjustable. Also, the ends are 90 degrees away from each other and the steering box end is bent just slightly out. If you scroll down here, you can see it. These places are calling it a drag link, maybe proper terminology is center link. https://shop.rareparts.com/search?year=1950&make=CHRYSLER&model=WINDSOR So to reply to the others, all I have found is Rare Parts that is a direct match. I have been trying to cross reference the drag link to something that is cheaper, hopefully a Moog part. Even it it needed a little tweak to make it work, but I haven't had luck yet. My drag is 26.25 center to center and about 27.5 overall. I also, don't really want to futs around with this part, just want the steering tighter, so I might just bite the bullet and spend the 300. It's also the only area I see the play at. Another thought is to make one that has adjustable ends like a tie rod. Unless adjustable ends are that much more bulky and fitting them in is an issue.
  13. Hey folks, I am shopping for a new drag link for my '50 Windsor and was curious to see if y'all knew where to find a good deal. Best I have found is $300 for a new drag link from Rare Parts (27787), which is a bit ridiculous. Haven't been on forum in a while, so if this should be in classifieds section, apologies.
  14. Finished up my engine swap a few weeks ago. What a difference! This thing is FUN.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use