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Sharps40 last won the day on November 20 2018

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About Sharps40

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  1. If it's a press on bearing it may be slipping on the carrier. Had it happen. Always replace both bearing and carrier. Press fit usually only works once.
  2. "...So an old Snap-On dwell meter was justified I figured. Spec for my ‘53 265 is 36-42 deg. I measured 27. I filed, adjusted and fired it up. New reading 37. Gapped some more measured 40. Good to go! Riveting stuff..." Set the dwell small/low side of spec. Itll grow to perfect then past max spec with driving maximizing life of the tune. (Inverse relationship- small dwell is big gap) You can check the point gap but I just work from dwell and let gap fall where it may. Just like choosing initial ignition timing, i set it all in at about 3000 to 3400 rpm w/o vacuum advance and if there is no ping on the test drive i know the initial timing is whatever the engine and dizzy need.
  3. I would recommend same. More trans options without the enblock bell housing of the earlier engines
  4. 1937. Dodge d5 4 door sedan 71 chevy Malibu 12 bolt w 225 75r15 tires. Wheels 15x6. 3.75 back space 37 dodge rear springs Just weld the dodge perches on the chev axle Good fit, fills the wells, good clearance with the tires
  5. All good. In discussion with three agencies now, none allow vacation or cross country driving as pleasure or basic usage. Even if its only one "Vacation" each year and within the mileage limits, I must tow it to or have a second modern vehicle along and even then I must attend a show or go to an icecream parlor. Basically, I can't drive it when and where and how I want. So, I'll likely keep normal insurance on it. I doubt I'll see 7500 miles a year but they will be miles when, where and how I want to rack them up and I damn sure ain't going to get many of those miles going to the average show where folks whisper crap about the mistakes in the car all the while leaning in and dragging their gut propelled belt buckles across the new paint..... and I can't eat that much ice cream. I'm going to devils tower, grand canyon, up CA Hwy 1, Riding to the Sun Road, Rt 66, Bryce Canyon, Dinosaur Monuments, hunting, fishing.....maybe get an icecream on the way, maybe not. Classic Insurance seems to be for the Hoity Toity Amelia Islanders.....
  6. First trip to the gas pump in 30 years. 25 mile ride. 64 mph top speed. Carb #2 makes her dig in and leap forward with a rebel roar! Exhaust....we need an exhaust!
  7. BigTen,Thanks for taking my call today. I think I have the basic tune established. There is a lot (a ton) of advance in the adjustable can on the distributor. Got it backed nearly all the way off, about 3/4 turn from locked out and still pulling about 12 to 14 degrees of additional advance at 3400 rpm. But its much smoother and steadier through out the range.Set the initial back to 6 degrees as you recommended for this bone stock motor. With the vacuum disconnected I'm seeing 28 to 30 degrees advance at 3400 rpm. Hooking the vacuum advance back up bumps it up to 40-42 degrees at the same rpm level. Good for now, some road time will tell if its too much or not enough.Idle hovers around 730 to 750 rpm and smooth/quiter out of the short straight pipes. Ported vacuum seems to be under an inch on the gauge at that level. Manifold vacuum at hot idle is a steady 19ish inches.I'm headed back to the garage to set up the progressive linkage on the second carb. I suspect a couple things will need done after the exhaust is on/front aligned and we can drive it. Most likely pull the carbs as I suspect two issues.I believe the transition slot is uncovered a bit too much at hot idle on the primary carb. (idle mix screws will barely kill the engine when shut and their best run position is 1/4 to 1/3 turn out from closed, seemingly a bit tight....and though less stinky now, we'll see if she still spit lots of fuel fumes as we go. All the plugs are soot black/may need jetted down some.)As for the secondary carb, I note the throttle plate has a tiny hitch on closing. (I checked and both idle circuit screws on the secondary carb are fully closed, so no extra fuel flow there on the idle.) May need the butterfly lapped to fit so it closes fully and smoothly. May just need a stiffer return spring and proper adjustment of the throttle rod.On a side note, i did run it out of gas while tuning......guess we been running it a lot over the last month and used up the first 5 gallons. Added 2 more and she fired right back up.Cold natured hussy too. I'll be converting that manual choke to automatic.
  8. Dad, Dodge is insured. Full coverage for now at blue book value. Towing and rental, etc is included. Won't be enough at actual cash value but it gets her some protection as we test drive and get her to and from the final mechanical shops. And, it saved me a 1 hour phone call while standing at the DMV counter. Now I can go stand in line for days and get the title, registration and plate. Once the paper is done, I'll look into just how much I'll be driving and go back through USAAs antique car insurance for an agreed value policy and hopefully find a policy without night time, interstate or other restrictions on use.
  9. Dad. BigTen and I played with the brakes again. Had her out on the road for a 5 mile run. So far so good. Prolly went too fast , 45 or so but even with the tweaks needed she feels good. Silky smooth ride once ya get past all the noise. Waiting to hear on moms stuff, if that's delayed then we'll set up to get her into the exhaust shop....she runs good enough now they wont have to push or pull the car around. She looks pretty good in the sun!
  10. Dad called. Asked about the camera stabilizer and how it works. I tried not to laugh and told him the phone was duct taped to the windshield and, yes, she rides smoothly on her modern suspension. We are both excited!
  11. Dad, 7 months since Ol Bessy came home. Idle is low. She needs a better tune. Brakes need bleeding and adjusted. The loosely installed exhaust pipes clatter and shes growly without mufflers. But....today almost 30 years since she last drove, a 1.5 mile run out and back, all systems function! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZsZWROz6TCY
  12. Dad, While waiting UPS to bring the Driveshaft (should arrive Wed, if UPS is on time) I went about doing the initial tune. Looking at the balancer, 30 degrees advanced and I figured we had either an incorrectly set distributor or a late model balancer. Double checked the specs on the balancer and its correct for the engine so in went the piston stop and sure enough, TDC was exactly zero on the blancer, not 30 where we had to set it to start it. (Seems the dizzy has 13 teeth and thats 28 odd degrees....so, likely one tooth off.) Bessy would idle fine, she would rev to high rpm with no vacuum advance, but hook up ported vacuum and she stumbled badly at high rpm. No vacuum leaks noted other than a very slight weep on the passenger side of the primary carbs throttle shaft. On the secondary carb, the throttle shaft is leak free and the throttle plate is vacuum tight till we open it at 60% throttle. Pulled the piston stop and removed the cap, sure enough the rotor was much closer to wire 8 than wire 1. Out came the dizzy and a qick tweek of the oil pump shaft and back down in when the dizzy. Now the rotor pointed at number one. Back up to the crank and I pulled the motor around to 8 degrees advance. Back to the dizzy and lined up all the little triangles. Cap and wires back on and she started on about 1/2 revolution of the starter. Warmed her up and she was at 8 degrees advance at 850 rpm. Mechanical advance at about 3000+ rpm added about 20 degrees, pretty much what I expected. Spend a good bit of time tweaking the idle mix and idle speed until i had no measurable ported vacuum at idle and then got the can adjusted to add about 8 degrees of vacuum advance. So, all in over 3000 rpm I'm seeing about 34 to 36 degrees advance on the balancer. There is room to play with that but she revs smooth, with or without vacuum advance well past 3000 rpm now. Really roars gooder when that second Rochester 2g kicks in! Settings on the Primary Rochester 2g carb came in at 1.75 turns in on the idle speed screw for 800ish RPM Hot idle speed, 1/2 turn out on each of the idle mixture screws (the main jets might be a bit large, again, room to play with that later.) Now if I can get the power brakes from about mushy to decent we might be able to drive in and out of the garage in a couple days. Also, Looks like the leaks are mostly beat down. Finally!
  13. Dad, Baring any leaks on the floor tomorrow I'll start her up again and check it over. New 85 Regal front brake hoses with washers and american steel banjo bolts, no leaks for 2 days now. Rear end is shimmed up 3 degrees and trans points down 4 degrees so, we hit the magic "within one degree" rule, drive shaft is on the way. Emergency brake works. New power steering pump is on and I finally found the right fitting for the hi pressure port. So far no leaks. Installed a lower radiator hose for a 65-67 Bel Air/Chevelle/Malibu, good fit with a simple 1 inch trim at the pump end. No strain in the set up that might break the clamps again and put on new clamps. Not leaking yet. Spare tire dogged down, doors adjusted to shut and stay closed, floor is in place, all the wiring connected, door seals installed, enough exhaust pipe available to run out behind the front wheels for a drive. Third brake light installed, right rear light connection repaired, headlights rough aimed, headlight switch replaced. Stereo works. Other than balancing the rear tires, nothing really big left for me to do here. Maybe 2 hours work on my end, one day of welding and a day or three in the exhaust shop. All we need to do is install the drive shaft and weld up the steering and motor mounts. Then comes exhaust and then.....we can drive it. 2 weeks out on the drive shaft and I have to give the exhaust shop a three week lead before we bring it down. If there are no leaks tomorrow after a run in, I'll start coordinating the final muscle moves to get this girl rollin toward a gas station for the first time since 1991.
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