1954 Plymouth Suburban Project

[pflaming]

Los, TKS. I needed that!  

 

At 4:00 today a mechanic friend will help me finish the brakes, do a safety “to drive” check, restart the engine and drive it. It’s the seconds  time I’ve had any physical help on this build. But now it’s time to get it done. 

Edited September 20, 2019 by pflaming

[pflaming]

 New MCBig day today. Brake issues resolved, so now new rear cylinders, rear drums turned needed only cleaning, new brake lines, new master cylinder, and front disc brakes from Rusty Hope. Front tires aligned, fuel line and new electrical fuel pump with an oil pressure safety switch so it will turn off in case of an accident. 

 

Tomorrow a final safety check with the car on the lift. Then start the engine and start the test drives. Mechanic charged me $35,, money well spent. Now only cosmetic issues remaining. Video on the street shortly 

 

Many thanks to each and all who in some way assisted me. Could not have got to this point alone. New Master cylinder pre final tubes. 

Edited September 26, 2019 by pflaming

[pflaming]

It looks rough but it “will buff out”!  It’s ready to drive home.  I want to further clean out my shop first, weekend work. 

[Sam Buchanan]

Some clearcoat and you are good to go!   ?

[pflaming]

Like these better?  The next cosmetic update will be smashing.

 

 

Edited September 27, 2019 by pflaming

[junkers72]

Why do you want to smash it after all that work? Lol

[pflaming]

Brother / sister act.

 

Edited September 28, 2019 by pflaming

[pflaming]

To remove the king pins I had to drill out the lock pin. It is a tapered pin. Who sells these.

 

The cat is drivable, doing safety and cosmetic items now. , 

[RobertKB]

17 hours ago, pflaming said:

 

The cat is drivable, doing safety and cosmetic items now. , 

 

I thought your cat died in the fire.

 

If you are installing new king pins, the kit should have those lock pins with it.

[pflaming]

It will look different by evening. Lots of last minute prepping. 

[DJ194950]

Paul,

I don't think I have ever seen anyone use TSP as a wax and oils degreaser on a car before putting paint (or primer) on one. Is that what you have used for the small amount of paint you have  applied where it readily shows??

 

Anyone else use that??

Might be I spent too much time in my own garage! ?

 

DJ

[pflaming]

It’s called prep and etch, to help the primer /  paint adhere to the metal. Yes 

[DJ194950]

OK, I think you are saying  TSP is just the brand name on the bottle and that is one of their other products? Then no problemo. Reason I asked was the old generic tsp acts as a acid I think and primarily used on house walls to prep. Other uses for the stuff??

I certainly never considered it compatible with auto paint formulas.?

 

Given any thought about what you are going to ask for the Suburban when it goes up for sale? Looking around lately for a friend it seems that prices while higher than in the past they are  all over the place in No. Cal.it seems to me.

 

DJ

[kencombs]

is this the product you're using: (I can't read the label, other than TSPm but it looks similar to a Sunnyside label0

TSP substitute is a heavy-duty ready to use liquid TSP substitute. It is a phosphate-free formula that is excellent for cleaning and removing heavy deposits of grease, grime, smoke, soot stains and chalked paint from walls, woodwork and floors. When mixed with bleach can be used to remove mold and mildew stains.

TSP SUBSTITUTE PHOSPHATE FREE - Sunnyside Corporation

 

https://www.sunnysidecorp.com › product

[pflaming]

I hope this helps  they also have a similar product called Prep and Prime. (PP) For obvious reasons I do not use that product. LOL 

Edited October 4, 2019 by pflaming

[Plymouthy Adams]

TSP (tri sodium phosphate) is better known as washing soda....very good overall cleansing powder when used as directed.  I have some here but my purpose in buying was to prevent creosote buildup when I operated my wood burning stove.  I do not think I have lit a fire in it for at least three winters.  

[kencombs]

3 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

TSP (tri sodium phosphate) is better known as washing soda....very good overall cleansing powder when used as directed.  I have some here but my purpose in buying was to prevent creosote buildup when I operated my wood burning stove.  I do not think I have lit a fire in it for at least three winters.  

Yes, but note that is not TSP.  It is clearly labled 'substitute'.  I have no idea what's in it but I have used another brand, Sunnyside, to clean and degloss wall and trim paint.  Not going to use it on a vehicle.

[pflaming]

Well, I used it. Used it on my truck, three years ago,, the clear on my truck still solid. So good, bad, or indifferent I’m proceeding. Once primered will drive the car to a detailer for the body, then to a paint mixing business and have them give me the best they can do and instructions to paint. It won’t be what Casper, Plymouthy, and others can do but I’m not them. 

[pflaming]

2nd coat of primer. Now let cure them sanding block and 800 grit. Am I on the correct plan? 

[casper50]

800 is a bit fine if it's going to receive paint.  Won't give a good bite for the paint.

[RNR1957NYer]

Most urethanes labels I’ve read recommend 320 grit.  Also, your arms will fall off if you start with 800 on primer out of the gun!

I recommend you use a soft rubber block - I’ve got one that’s about a 1/2 thick, with one side a closed cell rubber, the other side more of a “sponge” type.  This block is flexible, which is what we need with all the inside and outside curves on our cars.  I finished sanding the color coat on my P12 this week - spent a few months with that d**n block in my hands!  

[RNR1957NYer]

Finished my indoor chores, so I get to play for awhile in the garage - took some pictures of the sanding blocks I'm using.  The black blocks are on the hard side, but the curved faces and long lengths were indispensable for getting the long lines straight on my '66 Satellite (available at Eastwood, but I got mine on ebay).  The blue teardrop shaped block is slotted to hold sandpaper (I got three lengths from Eastwood).  The red and black block is the go-to block I described above - available in auto parts stores.  

The small black (because I've been using it on black paint) block is actually a white vinyl eraser - I use that on small areas, especially if there is a body line nearby and I'm afraid to burn though the paint.  Hopefully the Satellite will be painted by next spring.  The "shiny" pic is my P12's deck lid - starting the polishing last night.

[Dave72dt]

Get the tech sheets for the paint you're going to spray.  It'll tell you the recommended grit for final sand.  400 is usually sufficient for solid colors and 600 for metallic.  I'd suggest choosing a solid color.  It's a bit more forgiving in application than metallic and would be period correct.

[pflaming]

Today will get a spray gun and needed gauges for the air compressor. Then shoot.

[Los_Control]

7 hours ago, pflaming said:

Today will get a spray gun and needed gauges for the air compressor. Then shoot.

I bought this one from harbor freight, cheap but works well so far. I thought this video was good description to clean it and set it up.

There is assembly lube in a new gun that will contaminate your product, if not properly cleaned before use.