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1954 Plymouth Suburban Project


pflaming

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Yes you are right. The top one goes on the dash to the far right and the lower, larger one goes in the middle of the tailgate. There should be 3 pins on the back of it.

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That bottom one should be all one piece. The one you have is broken. Sometimes they show up on Ebay but often they are pretty pitted. I think that trim script is the same for all the models in 1953. It was on the lower edge of the trunk lid on the sedans.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Health issues have significantly slowed my shop work, yet I try to do a couple items a day, thus it’s about ready fo license for road duty.

      I thought about lowering the front an inch or so, but the mechanic on utube explained the potential danger  when installing so I have abandoned that. 
      Covid has not hit Darlene and I, we took our first shots on Wednesday.

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1 hour ago, pflaming said:


      Covid has not hit Darlene and I, we took our first shots on Wednesday.

My wife & I got our first round on Thursday - Pfister.  (What kind did you'all get?)  We have also "escaped" so far, but our oldest son has had cold symptoms for several days now.  (My wife moved him to our daughter's place, because of our youngest son being under treatment for Leukemia.  So far the God in his grace has spared him, too.)

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Wow, last post March 16. I’m still at it. But going very slowly.. 
Two days ago I  found and bought another r 10 overdrive, the 7th one. While hard to find, they are out there. 
 

my knee went out again, so Last week I moth balled my shop. Tomorrow I get another cortisone shot, will likely get a knee replacement next winter. Next Tuesday, the 11th we fly to Maine for the summer, return around the first of October. 
 

I've been researching metal bonding (“gluing with job weld, etc). I’m going to learn how to do that. Tests show it’s stronger than welding and no warpage. Body shops don’t use it much because of the cure time. 
 

Has anyone used this method?

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I've used it some.  Factories use it quite a bit.  A lot of roof panels are now glued on, some door hinges replacement door skins, etc., and most incorporate a few spot welds as well now.  I've seen it used on rocker panels, especially the slip-ons.  I've used it on a couple of wheel  arches, rocker panels and cab corners.  When using, some kind of backer is needed, either flanging or creating what appears to be a flange for the new panel to fit flush and panels must be clamped tight along the entire seam.  The glue is flammable so caution when spot welding or filling screw holes is needed.  I've found that after several years of expansion and contraction the seam line because of the double thickness may become visible in the paint.  

 

Set time can vary depending on the glue used.  Some set very quickly and others give you some time for panel adjustment

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52 minutes ago, Dave72dt said:

I've used it some.  Factories use it quite a bit.  A lot of roof panels are now glued on, some door hinges replacement door skins, etc., and most incorporate a few spot welds as well now.  I've seen it used on rocker panels, especially the slip-ons.  I've used it on a couple of wheel  arches, rocker panels and cab corners.  When using, some kind of backer is needed, either flanging or creating what appears to be a flange for the new panel to fit flush and panels must be clamped tight along the entire seam.  The glue is flammable so caution when spot welding or filling screw holes is needed.  I've found that after several years of expansion and contraction the seam line because of the double thickness may become visible in the paint.  

 

Set time can vary depending on the glue used.  Some set very quickly and others give you some time for panel adjustment

And, the bonding surface must be roughened and very clean.  The better brands are also expensive to use and require a special dispenser.   Also, it is not intended to be covered with body filler so any 'squish out' must be ground off.

 

It works  and lasts well.  My '97 F150 has a bonded roof from the factory.  

 

For most jobs, small rust patch for instance,  a mig welder is cheaper and faster.  But for some panel bonding, like really long seams or door skins,  the glue is best.

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9 hours ago, kencombs said:

For most jobs, small rust patch for instance,  a mig welder is cheaper and faster. 

Unless you own a chebby.

Usually they rust from the ground up, in Texas they rust from the top down.

Is crazy my truck has a rust hole the size of a 1/2 dollar on the roof. Rest of truck is rust free.

To weld in a patch I would need to remove the headliner, or expect sparks to catch existing headliner on fire.

 

Just a spot I want to fix while doing some touch up painting, plan to glue in a patch.

 

Wish you well with your knee & project @pflaming

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  • 1 month later...

Just trying to relearn how to post photos. The response I get is entry too large. . . . 
 

now in Maine for the summer. All plans are to sell the Suburban and the ‘53 coupe next winter, ship the truck and Sportster to Maine, then do an estate sale, sell the California house and move permanently.

 

so my suburban and coupe are about to go on the block.

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  • 1 year later...

It has been two years since my last post and a lot has happened. Summer two years ago I was bit by a tick while in Maine and now have the Lyme infection, I found it very early and took all the meds required so not sure if my fatigue and week legs are results. Then last October I broke a leg and that set me back three months, then a light case of covid following those two.   So things have been very slow, Im about 30% of what I was three years ago. I’m finally back in the shop, can sometimes put in six ours, but mostly 3 or 4.

        Been working on the suburban, this week i think i will paint it. Tomorrow will primer then more prep. Regarding the coupe, i still have it. My grandson and his friend want to get it fixed up for Zach’s school car. I told them I would guide them but will not turn one bolt, they were fine with that.  

    Some photos 

8D2C10F0-4262-4B17-86FE-2A2F8AD87045.jpeg

BB40BAEF-D698-4DA2-93A1-C726B8102765.jpeg

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Good to see you posting on the Suburban again,Paul, it’s been one of my favorite projects to follow on the forum.  Please share the paint process with us, I always find it satisfying.

 

How about starting a thread on Zach’s coupe project; no performance anxiety, just be director/cameraman!

 

Stay well!

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My next door neighbor has a business developing electronic ads. He is going to show me a simple way to make videos to post on You Tube, etc.  With the boys doing the work, we will make a video from the time it is put in the shop until completion. It is a true barn find. We will leave it at six volt, and change as little as possilbe: to wit:   Front disc brakes, lower it 2” front and back, little else.

D5D98384-E384-4546-A1BD-404F36B9503C.jpeg

6C1EB370-070A-487F-9D4D-C46443179852.jpeg

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today I have an appointment with a welder. I have all areas required for good finish welding spot welded.  Will have him do the quarter panels and the grille. It took a while to get the grille bolted and spot welded, but it is ready.

486F5A8C-A888-4310-B4CA-CED05E73B684.jpeg

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  • 3 weeks later...

I’m still doing final body work. I had a major oil can problem on my hood and spent a lot of time there today. I learned that it seems to be impossible to shrink out a dent which has bondo in it.  Also that the canned effect may be reduced by a problem away and likely on the shoulder of the hood. Hoping to apply primer by end of the week.  
 

i still can only work for about three hours but I can still work.  

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