Jump to content

Restorating a P-15 business coupe.


veterantechnic

Recommended Posts

If it is possible I think I may have our administrator delete my build thread. Yet it does show the difference between the refined and the risk taker.  If i had a formed piece like shown in above posts, I would have it chromed or gold plated and hang it in my office!. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it is possible I think I may have our administrator delete my build thread. Yet it does show the difference between the refined and the risk taker.  If i had a formed piece like shown in above posts, I would have it chromed or gold plated and hang it in my office!. 

Why would you want to delete your build thread?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well Don, I guess that when I see what the author of this thread is doing, and what others do, my work is clumsy, rough, and unsightly at best. It will be functional, it will hold up but it will have to  have a bit of cosmetic work done before and after welding.

 

Were I to do this again, I would have better materials, a car hood works just fine, and I would work with larger pieces. I'm learning that with the exception of very tight corners one can form a large piece of sheet metal a lot more than what one imagines. So I will continue but hopefully the quality of my work will improve.  

 

It's fortunate for guys like me that this forum is so forgiving and so helpful. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think that you're selling yourself a bit short there Paul. I really enjoy your posts and would hate to see any one of them removed. We can't all be experts in the realms of vehicle restoration, the good lord only knows how much I struggle! Your determination and perseverance in my mind provides motivation for many a person here to undertake their own challenges. I do enjoy your photos (blurry as they may be sometimes) as well. A big pat on the back for you and keep up the good work I say!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I enjoy your progress thread too. Simply put, more of us are closer to your expertise level of metal work.

This thread is more like watching an artist do a metal sculpture in the shape of a Plymouth.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll guarantee the craftsmen rebuilding  this car didn't start making repairs this nice when they first started shaping metal.  The repairs you are making  are some many won't even attempt and you're pulling them off  with nothing more than some verbal communications and a few pictures for reference. I've never done what I would consider a show car, just do the best I can and learn from it, as you are.  You're embarrassing me with how much you're getting done and how little I am,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well Don, I guess that when I see what the author of this thread is doing, and what others do, my work is clumsy, rough, and unsightly at best. It will be functional, it will hold up but it will have to  have a bit of cosmetic work done before and after welding.

 

Just wait until I get started on my 42 Dodge coupe this winter and post a few photos. You will immediately start to feel better about what you did.

 

BTW,this isn't a ego contest. It is a hobby for most of us that we all enjoy. Our Estonian friend just happens to be a pro,and a very skilled pro at that. It's a rare amateur that can do complex work like this as well as a pro. So what? There are always people who have more skills in one or more particular areas that others. With me it's wiring and electrics more than anything else. You just can't dumb it down far enoug for me to understand it. Everybody that knows me in real life understands this,and they just gave up trying years ago. Even when I do manage to fix something involving wires,I don't really understand what I did. I have a Ron Francis wiring harness to put in my 48 Plymouth,and I look at it as a big adventure because there won't be any upholstery to catch fire in the car after I first install it.

 

Big freaking deal.

 

I haven't done any body work in 30 years,and have never used a English wheel. Now I have one. And a plasma cutter,bead rollers,commercial brake,mig welder,etc,etc,etc. I can thank my 42 Dodge and 33 Plymouth coupe for those purchases. Once I get started,the steel mill that produces the steel I buy may have to put on another shift to make up for all the scrap I end up throwing away,and even then I seriously doubt my finished project in the raw will be anywhere close to the work our Estonian friend produces. Doesn't bother me a bit. I will be having fun,learning,and in the end I hope to have a couple of cars to drive that look pretty good.

 

I also don't mind admitting if I had the money I'd fly to Estonia just to watch him work. The fact that he is so good takes nothing away from me,and it takes nothing away from you.

 

I also don't mind admitting that I will be looking up your build thead for ideas once I get started on my stuff. As well as any other build threads I can manage to find. We all have different approaches when it comes to solving problems,and I have no doubt I will learn useful things from your thread.

 

My 2 cents worth,and worth every penny you paid for it.

Edited by knuckleharley
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Paul,

experience, training with experienced people, Expensive tools are required to do the larger pieces as shown,

 

Nothing against the posts at all. We can all learn somehting from all of them. Don't stop your posts, keep trying and learning, It helps keep the brain young!  :)

 

Even with some cheaper tools and Some experience, I have to make parts in Pieces and the weld together and grind, grind, grind the welds., but I do eventually get er' done.  ;)

 

Friend bought a Harbor Freight  english roller and a good 4 foot box brake, But now I don't have project to try them on!

I want to learn how to make bigger parts too, but !!  :rolleyes:

 

Doug

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Friend bought a Harbor Freight  english roller and a good 4 foot box brake, But now I don't have project to try them on!

I want to learn how to make bigger parts too, but !!  :rolleyes:

 

Doug

Wanna buy a 49 Chrysler coupe? Chryslers have bigger parts.

Or how about a 63 Fury convertibel?

 

I have a whole damn yard full of bigger jobs that are just calling you by name. :D

Edited by knuckleharley
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you were closer and paid for the metal I'd be happy to help!  B)

 

My friend already has 3 projects in line that I'll try to learn on and he works and pays for them!  :D

 

But he's got many other distractions it's slow.

 

Doug

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Like I`ve read, the rocker moldig clips are not available in the new product market. So, I`ve experimented with several type of rocker molding clips. This one seems to be work satisfactory for P-15 rectangular hole 3/8 by 3/4`` The base plate needs a little bit more design. The bolt will be replaced with rivet. Hope, I can produce this type of clips turing the winter if it is adequate need for these.

 

--
Leevi Naagel
+372 5669 7085
www.veterantehnika.ee

 

plymouth-deluxe-114.jpg

plymouth-deluxe-115.jpg

Edited by veterantechnic
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello guys. Thank you for nice words. Especial thanks for greg g, Mark D, mr. Bill and other guys for shearing information.
Now I need to have knowledge about original colour. Like I told former I found some pieces of original gray under the body. So, I ordered new paint by visual.
Now I am not very sure any more, have I got right tone. (RAL 7021) To research from the Forum I found that the right tone is Ecosheen gray. It is based more like green, not to blue like RAL 7021.
Also I got to know that with Ecosheen gray was covered everything exepted outside surfaces. It means all inside, saloon and trunk, weels arcs front and rear, hood and trunk lid under side. But how about fire wall from engine side?
Also side panels of engine compartment?

Thanks

Sorry, I refresh former post. Should be very gratefull to get some information about the colour.

Other question for rocker molding: I plan to use these selfmade clips. But I don`t know right height of the molding. How much it must be lower from the rocker edge?

 

Thank you all

Leevi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

   The stainless trim is even with the bottom edge of the front fender and even with the bottom of the welded seam of the inner and outer rocker panels. OR you could put the bottom edge even with the bottom of the front fender and then keep the top edge an even distance from the bottom of the door opening. 

   I can send pictures tomorrow if you want them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I believe the engine side of the firewall is always body colored. I think the inner fenders are painted the same as the radiator support, a low sheen black.  The inner fenders might be good candidate for the undercoat sealer eco sheen.  Have you checked the Autocolor Library website for teh color chips?

 

The rrocker stainless should mount about 1/8 to 3/16th of an inch down from the top of the sill plate, as noted aligned to the botom of the front fender.  It extends slightly below where the rocker sheet metal bends to return toward the frame.  

 

The stock mounting clips look like and upper case "H" with the cross bar positioned to make the bottom legs slightly longer then the top.

 

 

from the web

 

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&docid=5oTXDucy7_04RM&tbnid=k9pGkCRY_OgM-M:&ved=0CAUQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fbringatrailer.com%2F2010%2F01%2F25%2Fbat-exclusive-1947-plymouth-special-deluxe%2F&ei=9d1xUoLQMIen4AOQ3wE&psig=AFQjCNEXgHF0LerywWtgBhvd1KYsX_POKQ&ust=1383280357026309

post-17-0-07688300-1383193017_thumb.jpg

post-17-0-34323100-1383193065_thumb.jpg

Edited by greg g
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Using an online translator.  Is this correct ( understandable) ?

 

minu auto on öko sheen siseküljel tiivad ja boot kaane asendi.

I hope it makes sense but when I translate it back I get something I don't understand: "My car is eco sheen on the inside of the wings and the boot lid position."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello again.

Some pictures added. Now the boby is redy for painting. Bumpers are fitted before rechrom.

I tried to looking for the right inside color from Autocolor Library, but still no succsess. Thank you Greg and Niel for help me. The clips of stainless trim are ready. Need only zinc cower.

Usually Google translatin give right equivalent for separate words but whole sentence lost idea. I use that also but any time it need correction.

 

Leevi Naagel

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use