Los_Control

Los hands out sand paper to all

Thanks thats what I think also ... I tapped out all the threads on all 4 plates, 3 plates have zero movement, they must be brazed ... just this one plate failed .... Maybe call dodge and check warranty? Good idea Merle, I was thinking about that also .... to be honest I am such a lousy welder, will be a big patch of bubble gum left there, and a long row to hoe to file it smooth. My thoughts right now, when it gets daylight. Going to see if I can lift the plate all the way out, clean it up good, clean the sheet metal best I can. Then apply a layer of jb weld and install the plate tight with the bolts and let it dry, also can get 2 tack welds on top. I figure the jb weld is not enough, the 2 tacks are not enough, the two fixes combined should last long enough to get the door installed. Even if I do nothing and fight it getting the door installed with it loose ... once the bolts are started, is adjust door as normal. When tightened down the plate will not move.

The few years I have been here, I never heard of anyone complain about this issue. I am guessing was spot welded or "brazed" from the factory & mine failed. Only 1 out of 4 that moves and is a issue. Unless some super secret trick I do not know about .... going to say I need to weld the plate back in to hold it in position.

Yeah that could work ... but not really any different then just having the bolts holding it ... would have to remove the 10x24 to slide in the hinge and it would drop. While you can not see the threaded 1/4" plate, it is behind the body panel & inbetween the kick panel & about 2" down ... almost impossible to get a grinder in there to clean up for welding ... same time tack welding will be a shoot & hope. Cant really see what you are doing. If lucky could get 2 good tacks on it to hold it. If for some reason this is wrong, would actually need to cut a access panel to grind out the weld. I just cant see how that plate moving around is beneficial to any adjustment?

Thats a fair question .... imho, what really is best? Depends what you want the end product to be. You need a proper gear ratio to work for your engine transmission. You need proper brakes for your braking system ... Does your new rear end have disk brakes? Now you need proper master cylinder and proportioning valves to work the brakes. You need to get the width right & also wheel bolt pattern. You do need to do your homework when doing a rear end swap. For the average old Mopar, can use a old Ford 8.8 or a jeep rear end with drum brakes ... use stock master cylinder, will need to modify u-joint, And grind off old mounting stands and weld on new ones to mount it ... You could take a Ford 9" rear end and narrow it, spend $2k building it ... For the most part, a old Ford explorer or a jeep cherokee is the right brakes, u-joint, bolt pattern, width ... You just need to change the spring perches to mount it.

I have been dreading this moment for 2 years. The threaded plate behind the hinge dropped down. It actually was pretty painless to use a telescoping magnet to retrieve the threaded plate & pull it back into place and a few tries with wire and changing seating positions ... was actually able to get bolt in it to hold it. Now I have ran a tap through all the threads, a die on all the bolts .. easy peasy to screw in the bolts. If I remove the bolts the plate will drop to the bottom again. With the door hinges installed, there is not enough room to use the magnet and pull up the plate to bolt the hinges. Just cant get there from here! The holes are round and just big enough for the 3/8" bolts to go through to lock in the hinges. I have 2 doors & 4 hinges ... 3 threaded plates do not move, is only this one that drops. Is actually the hinge that is oblong to allow adjustment. I plan to just tack weld it in place. I was told that it needs to be loose to adjust the door ... Before I make a mistake and weld it, which will be difficult to even reach & clean the area, will only get a few tacks on it. Just asking if I am wrong here, The 3/8" threaded plate to screw the hinge bolts in should be welded solid? Just asking for help to see if on right path, or if some secret to install doors with loose backing plates?

I actually think I have a competent counter person ... Ol Charlie is ok in my book. I actually just brought my distributor in with me to buy points. He looked up the #, went back and grabbed the points off the shelf that matched the # We looked at them and were backwards of what my points plate wanted. Now I have to wonder if someone took 2 distributors and made 1 work .... or did Charlie have the wrong points in his package? Someday I will take it to Napa and see what they show ... for now my points are in good shape ... just saying there are strange things that happen.

I was also wanting to add seafoam to the list of products to try. I have talked to a few real mechanics and they think seafoam is a good thing. Again you can add it to your fuel, or read the instructions I believe there is a procedure to follow for adding to the oil. Change the oil, add seafoam, run it at 1200 rpm for 15 min then drain the hot oil and add fresh. I have done this with my daily driver chebby truck adding it to the fuel, but not in the oil ... just not needed, again atf will also do this. That might make a interesting video also, A product review. I watched one youtube vid of a guy trying it on a old ford ranger. Just gummed up from no oil change abuse ... it was blowing black smoke out the tail pipe with the seafoam in it ... it really was cleaning. And it was a better running engine when finished. Something you can do in a afternoon, compression check before ... run the seafoam, then compression check after ... see if it improves? Snake oils do not fix mechanical problems, but gummy & sticky rings it might help. I would rather experiment on your engine and not mine

I think you are right When I get done farting around with it and actually drive it, am hoping the other cylinders improve more .... even if they do, I hope to get one year out of it and pull the engine. If for no other reason replace the rear main seal that is dripping now, expect it to be a flood after some miles. Adjusting the valves is always a good idea. If one was adjusted to tight, that would affect compression. If the valve could not close and seat all the way. If too loose they would clatter but not really affect compression .... assuming they are seating. Thats where lapping them would come in handy. You visually inspect the cylinder while in there make sure no damage is being done while you drive it. As long as you do not let a-d-d kick in, and make it a bigger project then planned. I just picture a engine sitting for a long time with the valves open, will build up corrosion on the seating surface ... A small thin amount would cause low compression. I feel valves are not really the issue, it is stuck rings that are not opening fully and sealing ... what do I know though. The mmo in the fuel tank will lubricate your accelerator pump, help clean the carburetor, lubricate the valves etc ... will be a good thing. While adding it to the crank case will lubricate the rings along with internal parts of the engine. Wont hurt a thing, just cost extra and normally just not needed. When I was a kid pumping gas at the local texaco, I would add a quart of atf while changing the oil on a dirty gummed up engine. Drive it a few hundred miles and repeat it again then change oil again with pure oil no atf ... would really clean a engine out. Basically all the mmo is doing, atf is cheaper.

Kieth sometimes I feel like the old movie actor Forrest Gump, I'm not a smart man. I certainly am no mechanic. My idle brain thoughts .... first of all we know that motor is in pretty good shape, at least we think it was rebuilt with 8k miles on it. Are the other cylinders improving? .... what is the highest cylinder now? My lil pea brain I think a motor was built or re-built & all cylinders are created equal. They all have same mileage & use. I think that the highest compression of cylinders sets a threshold of where the rest need to be. The example is mine has a few at 110 psi .... while some came up after use and getting close. iirc, your video did not show any over 100? Or was close to it ... been a few day since watching it ... that was my impression they all seemed low. If I get a few cylinders over 110 psi on a truck been sitting in a field for 20 years ... I suspect this car would show more. @keithb7 Plan a video on doing a valve job ... specifically lapping the valves. I am not a smart person, I kinda think this video will fix most your issues ...

I bought mine ... I think are monroe ? from Rock Auto. I figure now I have bigger fish to fry then shocks .... When I get down to tuning shocks ... I kinda doubt bilstien is where I would go, unless was going crazy suspension. I kinda like the old school shocks with the springs on them ... Today they use them on custom race car suspension ... I like the old ones that just gave you a bit more load capacity.

Kinda thinking same thing myself here .... For example I need a bag of body bolts, as good as my local store is, I really think I need to scour the internets to find what I need. Location is everything. Along with changing times. 30 years ago when I lived in Tacoma WA, is irrelevant. I had no problems finding hardware. 6 years ago when I lived in Albuquerque, no problem finding hardware & Ace hardware was not on my list of places to shop. I did occasionally stop there as a remodel carpenter just because it was close to the job .... I never shopped at Ace because I thought it was the best. Today I live in a small Texas town, The zip code shows under 8k residents, obvious the actual city limits is much smaller .... Everything around here is oil fields, ranching or farming. Ace hardware is my only option in this town, and they cater to what is needed. The next town over offers a few more choices including a tractor supply and a builders supply along with Ace. So when I say my local ace is cool, it simply caters to the local people. If I lived in Albuquerque I would not bother with it. I would like to see a list of internet vendors who people like to order from ... but again because of the times (pandemic & lock down) we have a shortage of many things ... maybe another year and back to something close to normal. Project for today is to save all the original hardware I can.

I would have to agree to some point, the copper sweat fittings are really not that common today or a big seller to keep in stock. Then with todays shortage of metals, the old copper fitting been sitting on shelf for 3 years is now worth 4 times more. I personally have no use for copper in a car ... I am in the process of converting my home to pex. I feel it is the best thing going at the time for home or commercial water supply. For automotive use not worth a crap. I can see where copper or brass fittings you can use in home or automotive use will be hard to find. They will all be set up for clamp on plastic pipe. & not threaded or sweat. I did check out my local tractor supply yesterday, The one 30 miles north has a great selection of hardware. The one 30 miles East where I go to get my Argon gas bottles exchanged, their hardware isle sucks .... Like Ace hardware, store from store varies ... I think we should start a thread for daily rants .... today mine would be about the butterfly hood assembly & what level collage degree you need to assemble one

see if it turns over .... if so add some marvel mystery oil to cylinders. Let it soak a bit. Pull the distributor out & clean the points ... you know they are corroded & no spark ... distributor is slotted not geared ... if rotor is pointing at 12 O'clock, re-install same and will be fine. Easier to work on it and inspect on the bench. I would disconnect the wiring, you need power from battery to the starter, then a jumper wire from battery to coil to hot wire it ... I would not want power going to the ignition switch or lights etc ... til inspected & probably replaced or repaired. Also with all the wiring disconnected, you can use a 12 volt battery to start it. The starter will spin the engine faster, the 12 volt battery will not care if you connect it + ground. pour a lil gas down the carb and fire it up! Lets be honest here ... this way is quick & dirty, but if you can hear it run for just a few minutes. Then you have a better idea what you are working with. Does it have bad bearings and rods knocking with no oil pressure? You just have better info to prepare your game plan for next moves. Good chance after sitting for 50 years, the valves are stuck open and those cylinders will not have compression. But if you can get 3 or 4 cylinders to run, the others just may free up and start firing. Chances are not enough compression to start. But nice if it does. So if it makes any sense, all above are correct, you will likely end up pulling the head & the pan, rebuild/replace water pump, fuel pump, carburetor. If I was a betting man, I would bet your rear main seal will be leaking after sitting for 50 years. Good chance you will in the end pull the engine out and freshen it up & new seals .... if you can hear it run for a few min before ... it helps.

I think you are right ... I finally did a google image search and is what comes up. I have never grown spinach before, only recently a few years ago discovered how good it is raw in salads. This type does not look like the bagged kind I buy in the stores, maybe will be better While at tractor supply looking for lettuce, cauliflower seeds will look for some spinach.

Good to repurpose them & use them. I planted a few onions like that 2 years ago, next spring they came up. Then the dogs dug a hidey hole to lay there. I filled the hole and this spring onions came up again, again they dug a hole to sleep. Why am hoping a designated garden area I can fence off if needed to keep the dogs out. I planted some taters yesterday, they had some good sprouts off of them & I was digging through the bag fixing some fried taters for breakfast. No idea when they should be planted ... I had the space and planted them. My lettuce was getting out of control. I have been eating off of it for awhile ... be honest it sucked. Did not have the thick texture I wanted ... wife did not like it ... it was getting out of control and ready to go to seed ... I put it all in the compost bin yesterday. I am searching for a new lettuce seed to grow. Now I have a new space to try more plants ... we love beets & broccoli ... peppers grow good and this year growing some tomatilo ... be nice for canning a salsa. Need some onion. I said earlier I did not expect much from my garden this year, working on it I think it is doing better then expected. Anyone recognize this plant? I have no idea what it is, I did not plant it ... I think is a present from a passing bird.

Kind of interesting, I have never seen one like this .... not original but has a certain kool look to it.

I get it ... I felt same way at first ... then after 10 years I kinda saw the advantage. This log is for your advantage ... not your employer. Can you remember date & miles when you last changed the oil, changed the serpentine belt, installed new water pump ... new heater hoses & vacuum lines on the wife car ? What about your daily driver and the work you have done to it? .... Lets throw in a project car and the work you have done to it ... Do you remember?, or would a cheap log be of some help?

I am talking something very simple & basic. I started doing this as a remodel carpenter ... it was taught to me from my employer. It really was worthwhile, everyday a few min to write down what you did that day. Not often was it referenced, but was invaluable when it was. One example, boss sends in a bill & client complains because they do not see anything being done. Then look at the notes and see the kitchen cabinets arrived 3 days late, took several hours to unload them, check them off the list, check for damaged boxes or materials, store them in a usable fashion so you had the first cabinets available & not buried. It spent time unloading a truck. Then 6 months later when the client is complaining the project is $400k over budget, you have logs to go back and show. For larger jobs we left the book in a designated place so homeowner come home from work & could read progress for the day. End of job we put the book in the folder with the the rest of the jobs information .... few extra min but worthwhile to have it written down a year later. So today while working in my garden, I decided I was going to make a log book for the garden ... Today I did this & that and planted x seeds. Write down when they sprouted, how well they did ... is summer time and getting too hot for planting seeds ... make a log of it and study it next year. Then I asked myself, why do I not have a log book on each vehicle? Maybe my house? Just a cheap book, and easy to store. Just curious here, does anyone keep logs on their vehicles?

Glad to hear you all good brother! As far as I know, a pro centers the steering wheel in the cab, then sets alignment to it ... technically it should be pretty close before any adjustment are done to the adjustments underneath. ... pulling the steering wheel was never part of a alignment. Sad I do not remember if you have the Dakota column / wheel or modified to use original wheel? either way I wonder how it got upside down.

My Ace really is not to bad, so far they have a decent selection of hardware. One isle is dedicated to cookware, household cleaners, I bought a meat thermometer from there last week. They have about 3 lawn chairs near the cash registers ... A well stocked firearm section with weapons & ammo, out front is hunting blinds and wheel barrows. Across the street is their lumber yard, is between 1/2-3/4 city block in size. & they have a decent paint department. Just saying they are not all the same, I am sure they stock what sells, the lawn furniture/household items here do not sell. Yesterday went there to buy 2, 3/8"x24 bolts ... 89 cents each ... spent $40 while there ? Almost makes me want to drive to tractor supply 30 miles away and buy a pound of them ... today I need to go back and buy 2 more 3/8"x24 bolts. I see TS sells in bulk, but they do not have the selection my Ace has.

They were so reliable, they changed the starter location in 1935, then later changed the water outlet on the head, in the 50's they came out with a 230 ci version. The 218 ci/230 was so dependable they continued to make it and sell in other Countries or industrial equipment into the 1970's. High rpm will kill them, the oiling system is maxed out at 3600 rpm ... keep the rpm down and they will run forever or a long time ... whichever comes first.

Simple self tapping screw and a pry bar removed all of mine ...

I love it, looks a lot better then mine ... But you can see mine is heading to the same paint scheme. Maybe someday I get the outside painted, but am painting everything underneath so it is protected ... I put 1 fender on today, next tomorrow, then inner fenders & radiator, hood. Might take a week or so. Sadly my goal now is to get the parts back together then move it out of the work area. My wife car needs some serious work, my daily driver needs maintenance. While I like playing with this old hound dog, I have to be a adult & work on them ... I assume will take rest of summer at my pace. Maybe next IWOYTD I will get to do more.

Well I heard my story on the internet ... We know it must be true ... Seems to me that missiles have wings, maybe my post was not to far off base .... Many products are created by the military and then later released to the public. Just saying water displacement to remove water from wings on a missile to prevent icing and course changes ... kinda like removing water from airplane wings to prevent icing at high elevations? Same story just a different story teller. Knuckle you old Bastard, you make too much sense. I have been doing my truck in steel .... I have thought many times to rip it out and start over before I finish the rear brakes.