Los_Control

Cool car, I like the rain drip guards over the windows .... kinda like some of those on my truck. Almost looks like a old tractor seat off to the side .... Be a cool seat for the garage if put on wheels. I know you are still, cleaning to get back to the car. You do need to change those blocks. My analogy of when working as a carpenter & in between jobs, I worked for a glass shop installing new vinyl windows in homes. The old glass we would bring back to the shop & break it up into a container that was recycled. When I had a 4'x6' piece of tempered glass, get it in the container ..... it had to be broken up to fit inside the container. I could use my 22 ounce framing hammer & smack it right in the middle. Several times & it would not break ... usually. It was actually pretty strong. Same time the same piece of glass, stand it up in the container and lightly tap the edge of the glass, It would disintegrate into a zillion pieces. It has a very weak spot and will break easily. Same thing with concrete bricks, installed properly they have held up houses for a hundred years .... they are very strong. You install them sideways like yours are, they are very weak and a simple tap from a jack stand, or a jack handle or a wrench in the right spot .... they can disintegrate into a zillion pieces like a piece of tempered glass. The photo you show is simply a good learning tool for others on how not to block up a car. We all talk about safety. About 3 weeks ago I'm digging up a dead bush in the front yard to plant a replacement. I need my 100' extension cord that's hanging on the wall behind the cherry picker & engine stand is sitting in front of it. I'm reaching for it, lose my balance and swing my right foot into the corner of square tubing. I either chipped, cracked or broke a bone in my foot doing this. ..... Today is the first day I almost feel comfortable wearing shoes. Been soaking in epsom salt, just the weight of a blanket on my foot is painful .... been catching up on some chores .... I can not wait to get my shoes off and soak my foot again .... This is week 3 of the problem. All caused because I did not want to roll the tools out of the way to reach the extension cord safely. Sometimes short cuts can end a life, not just cause a short inconvenience for my wife to do the shopping.

The opinions on oil is as many as choices of oil. I think something important to remember, when the car was built. They did not use detergent oil. The car only has 29k miles ..... incredible find. The oil canister is not a pressurized system, it is a bypass system where just a small percentage works it's way through the filter. Better then no filter but not ideal ... And was a option on many vehicles back then. My point is, just for general maintenance it may be a good idea. to adjust the valves. 29k miles may be early, but 50 years may be overdue? The idea is when you open the side covers, You can see how much sludge is already in the motor. Then you can decide if you want to drop the pan & clean it. I know with my truck is simple to drop the pan, I think the cars are the same? The reason why to be concerned, once you start using a modern detergent oil. It can clean and wash all the sludge & clog the pickup screen on the oil pump. I think any modern oil is better then what was available years ago. Is the motor clean inside? Did the previous owner already deal with this problem? A simple valve adjustment will give you a really good clue of what the rest of the engine looks like. We love Kieth, he makes some great teaching tools. The model & year is different, but the procedure is the same.

For tire pressure, I was always taught that the air carries the load. The load rating on the side of the tire is listed at X amount of weight at MAX air pressure. Just saying if the tire states 32 psi, that is the max amount & not what is required to operate the tire. Think of a 2 ton chain hoist, You can lift up to 2 ton, not required to only lift 2 ton. ..... Same with your tires, up to 32psi, not required to run 32psi. A single seater bob tail roadster with the same tires would be a lot lighter, maybe 18 or 20 psi would be all that's needed to carry the load. Your 4 door passenger car would require more air, how much there simply is no right or wrong answer. You will need to play with it & decide what air pressure works best for your car's weight. Just throwing out a idea, your car looks pretty decent. I imagine the previous owner took real good care of it. I would further guess that all 4 tires at 22psi was not a accident. The previous owner experimented & found that was what worked for themselves. I would put them back to 22psi, then try 24 or 26psi experiment & find where you like them.

Thing is, if your heart is not into it ... it is wasted time on your part. I actually had a 1966 Elcamino with a factory 283/4spd .... the cabin rust had been repaired ... was a perfect car .... I just hated it. I'm a truck guy, the Elcamino was a car, I had to register it as a truck .... I hated it. I sold it once but had to repossess it as the clown would not pay, I then took it in to trade for a 1972 CJ5 jeep. ..... Not because I wanted a jeep, I simply did not want a elcamino car pretending to be a truck. Just suggesting to not get involved in a car if a truck is your choice. I worked out of a van for years, my wife drives a van, I do get along fine with trucks ..... I have no patience for a car personally.

I may be a bit over zealous in my description of my dinner menu's @greg g Your advice is solid. Today is Friday & we are having fish. This week is salmon, I will prepare it on the bbq & will have a green salad & shrimp cooked in a garlic butter sauce on the side. No deep fryer this week. FWIW, My wife went in for her 6 month DR checkup, Doc told her that whatever she is doing to keep it up. She had lost some weight that's beneficial to her. He lowered her high blood pressure medication & a couple other meds as well, She came home proud. ...... When she told me, I was also proud. I feel that since I have taken over the cooking for the last 5 years, both of ours health has been improving. Cooking has become a hobby for me. I admit I will cook 8 pounds of french fries at a time, A 2 day process. Put them in 1 gallon ziplock baggies & freeze them .... I only cook a moderate handful for our dinners so the frozen fries will last a few months .... Just more healthy & taste better then the frozen food available at the store. And mine are a treat. I simply refuse to eat in a restaurant or fast food. The Doctor confirmed I'm on the right track with my wife health, my overnight guest suggest I should be a cook in a restaurant. Last week was some Louisiana fish & crab Gumbo, Chicken tenders, meatloaf, smooshed taters, chicken tacos, fish & fries, sausage & sauerkraut .... I use my deep fryer 4 or 5 times a month. I have been practicing on Asian cooking ... This is tougher then American or Mexican cooking.....same time I am building up my garden & getting fresh veggies from it through the year. I REALLY SHOULD BE LOOKING AT A AIR FRYER! I live in a house built in 1948, I own a 1949 truck .... Those new dang fangled gadgets are not always the answer.

Interesting for sure .... buuuuuut, I duno. I would like to see if it could be consistently reproduced over & over. I'm more inclined to think something electrical as a poor ground, or battery is getting weak & not consistently producing same amount of amps. These things would cause random irregularities in cranking speed. Also if it sat for 2 months, maybe it was just a bit stiff & lazy when you first turned it over, then pulled out the choke and was ready to turn over normal. Had nothing to do with the choke. Do you have a good ground strap on the engine to cab? .... Is the choke cable acting as a ground and moving it creates a better connection? I just would like to see the results of a daily start up comparison, for a few days .... Can you consistently get the same results? Opening or closing the choke should not effect the compression or engine rotation in anyway that I know of. Just my opinion.

I always found ATF to be a thin lubricant & lubricated while it cleaned. I assume diesel fuel & kerosene, simply a product I want to use for cleaning. I certainly would not add either product to my oil while hoping to clean a engine while driving. Just saying, whoever is suggesting to add Diesel fluid to a engine oil needs clarification.

Yes sir I would not argue with you on that. The 318 mopar engine may or may not be superior. We like it because it gives us a warm fuzzy feeling. While there are many Transmissions available for the 318, several bolt patterns to chose from.... I did suggest the sbc for the ease of transmission choices because they all use the same bolt pattern. I'm simply not recommending a Dodge engine because there is too many options for the transmission, Too many gotcha for the exhaust or carburetor. .... simply depends on what others feel important ..... Either will work, you just will not see me suggesting Dodge over Chevy.

Really interesting conversation. I would suggest ATF to fix it. Others suggest Kerosene. Another suggest diesel fuel. Yeah .......

I have to admit I'm interested in a air fryer. Same time I use a old fashioned deep fryer ...... Every Friday is fish & fries .... There are days I use the deep fryer for other dinners .... I have never used a air fryer, I doubt I ever will ..... I like greasy food. I make twice fried french fries, I love fried stuffed peppers, I make fried shrimp, I just love using my Deep fryer 2 times a week. I see no air fryer in my future. ..... The mushrooms & batter cooked in oil is wonderful.

I understand the concern, in the past I have worked on vehicles where the distributor had a gear & was installed 1 tooth off. The mechanic just adjusted the plug wires to match. .... They ran OK, but never ran like they should. When I corrected the problem, the difference in performance was incredible. Our flathead 6's .... or as @DakotaFrank suggest, distributors with a shaft do not care. Distributors with a gear does matter? Seems to me with a gear & adjust the wires, it is firing the cylinder but either too early or too late. But they do run.

You old hipster, Not often I stay awake before dark, let alone 11:00 pm

You forgot the "all ya all" But you are 100% correct.

For me is very simple, lower your expectations. I think it looks great for something you did yourself. One thing I like most about single stage paint, you can sand down that area and redo it. Maybe get it better the 2nd time. I plan to spray Rustoleum paint on my hoopty, If it came out as good as yours I would be happy with it. .... I have lower expectations, I'm leaving some dents for now, can come back & work on them later and repair the paint. These vehicles never had the greatest paint job from the factory .... It really is your expectations.

Something I have never done, but lately I have seen a few 283 sbc come up for sale dirt cheap in my area. Many if not all of them used or had the option for a horseshoe motor mount like our flatheads use. It would be easy to mount to our frames. You would need to make a rear cross member .... There are some pretty slick aftermarket universal rear cross members you could just bolt into place wherever you needed it. There is a huge assortment of exhaust manifolds available to clear the steering box. Just about any chevrolet transmission from automatic to stick would bolt up to it. It would just be a easy conversion, lots of used & new parts available, dependable .... list goes on why to use one, very small list on why not to use one. Myself I picked up a 51 Ford flathead V8/4spd truck engine. It mounts on top of the frame from the water pumps, like a horseshoe mount we use. So it will be just as easy to install as a 283 as mentioned above. ....... yeah I would not recommend it to another though.

Lets be honest Paul, it was tricky when we were young also. We just did not know any better so we went ahead & did it anyways. Now you are doing it right.

GOD BLESS AMERICA

I think we all have made mistakes in our lives .... I Think @ggdad1951nailed the reason for this mistake .... thats an important lesson. I hope we are not ignorant enough to create the same mistakes as the car owner in the video ... The video creator is trying to use the mistakes as "content creation"The car owner knows what he did wrong. There is no point in the internet beating him up over it ....That man will live with this mistake for the rest of his life. .... & the internet will beat him up long after he dies.

If you think about it, with a sticky throttle idling about 2200 rpm I think they said ... Depending on the rear gears & 1300 HP, could be cruising on the freeway 70 mph at 2200 rpm. He had to be riding those brakes hard .... So hard they could smell them overheating. Pride can make you do some stupid things.

Adds a proper Grrrr

If for some reason you become a paint expert, you will then explain to us how 1/2" hose is better then your 3/8" hose even though you have a regulator on your hose to not blow up your hvlp .... you tell me how that is working out for you. Just suggesting a little thought on the subject should clear it right up. I have ran 150' of 3/8 hose to paint my shed .... 1/2" hose is hog wash

I don't think I have ever seen an impeller rusted off. Makes you wonder, probably a real thin stamped sheet metal one. I actually have seen this, was a 1970 Dart with a 360 engine. I wanted to buy the car and the owner convinced me my wife did not want it. The car was overheating and it was the impeller on the water pump that failed, just broke and would not turn water. Just saying, yes a impeller can break. You simply need to adjust your social media.

Have to agree with @kencombs on snake oil on water pump lube. With a re-cored radiator, I would have to consider that as a investment to be protected. You also need to think about your engine block, heater core. Distilled water is good, The only reason I can think of not running antifreeze that will protect your radiator & engine. Is you are a race car & they do not want to clean up the mess on the track when the engine blows up. Absolutely I would want antifreeze in the coolant to protect my investments. There are proper ways to dispose of the used coolant when finished with it ..... Water alone seems like a very poor way to treat a cooling system. Just my humble opinion. I wonder if others agree?

Well what you have too say pretty much puts Rustyhope out of business. I do have to wonder why it has been working for others for years. I'm not exactly convinced .... I think I will use mine.

I kinda built up my opinion or thinking, on the subject. I'm going to give Rustyhope some credit for their engineering, They know the castle nut is a issue. Their work around is to flip the nut around. And end of problem. We know we can modify the nut & make it work .... I'm just guessing they have more engineering skills then I do. I assume they know about the castle nut issue, If they thought a thinner spacer would be better they would suggest it or include it in their kit. So I ask myself, why did they just not include a thinner spacer to fix the issue? Seems it would be easier for them to just change the thickness of the spacer in the kit .... instead they recommend to run a thinner nut or to flip the original nut backwards then end the problem. So just a WAG, Rustyhope chose to keep the spacers the same & flipping the nuts was the lesser of two evils. Why did they choose this decision? Could be money or it could be they knew what thickness spacers were needed. Then I ask, why is flipping the castle nut so bad? What is the procedure for setting the front wheel bearings, snug it up then back it off. The castle nut is barely over finger tight & is the cotter key that holds it in place. We really do have to wonder just how important the castle nut is, how important the cotter key is ... will the castle nut perform as expected with it turned around? Just saying @sniper I never saw anyone say the nut would not work backwards ... I would be concerned with adequate amounts of threads on the nut. I would simply ask @sniper to consider this before going off on a wild goose chase.