Los_Control

Even possible it was the carb causing the issue before it was rebuilt .... Now it is fine. Did @librado65 change the oil while getting the carb rebuilt? Why I am not so quick to jump on the re-builder of the carb. I certainly suggest to inspect it closely. I think this is a learning experience in life. Lucky I learned on a old truck worth $200 at the time. Loss of the engine on a old classic like this sucks. And not cheap. @Sniper may be correct here. Another example just 2 days ago. I wanted to use my new pressure washer, worked fine last time I put it away. Now wont start, either makes no difference so I think it is spark issue ... it sounds clunky. I check the spark plug and just saturated.I pull the cord to turn it over and liquid sprays out of the plug hole. I pull the dip stick and the crank case oil just pours out all over the driveway. I simply forgot to turn off the fuel supply on the gravity feed tank and filled the engine with gas. I finally got it started yesterday and used it a few times, it seems to be ok. Was a real job to get it started again. Some people may have never ran into this issue before. Sometimes is easy to point fingers, when you may actually be the blame yourself.

I was thinking the same as @knuckleharley At very minimum double check that carb before installing on next engine. I had a old beater 1961 dodge sweptline with a slant 6. It's main duty was to collect garbage and drive it to the dump 2 or 3 times a month. Then later started driving it more since one of the other cars was down. One day wife was driving it down the freeway and heard a explosion ... pulled over thinking she blew a tire .... it was running fine so she took off again. Later on I looked at it to see what I could find. I had to stand on the fender to pull out the dipstick to check the oil. It literally was 1" shorter and curled up ... I had to straiten it as I pulled it out. It was a crank case explosion from a leaky carb. As a 25 year old kid with a family, I put on a junk yard carb, changed the oil and replaced the dip stick ... drove it a couple more years. I suspect you had the same thing happen, except yours destroyed the engine.

Congratulations, you just found something to study and learn. Not trying to be a arse ... just saying you need to learn this. The info is available and you are in the right place. When I ordered my new tank and sending unit from Tanks The lady answering the phone asked questions ... I was very specific about being 6 volt + ground. She scolded me like a old school marm and said it did not matter. Just saying she sold the units for years and she said it does not matter 6 or 12 or + or - the sending unit will work for my application. Not saying she was bossy, she just really sounded confident in her opinion. My only point is, the fuel gauge on some cars do not depend on 6 or 12 volt or + /- ground. Some cars like maybe your Chrysler have 2 wires going to the sending unit. And I have no clue about these sending units ... You need to study this a bit. I even think it matters on a Ford or a chevy, you need to add a reducer to drop it from 12 volt to 6 volt. Your 12 volt battery in the trunk probably should not be connected to your fuel sending unit.

Has great advice here. Pull the head, oil the valves inspect all ... I think I paid $100 for a engine rebuild gasket set from napa. But we have 2 different styles of advice here. imho the motor been rebuilt. It should be good unless it had sat outside or had access to water. Back in the day a farmer would hook a chain to it and tow it around the field until the compression came up and the engine started. I am that person. Others think you should disassemble the engine and go from there. The issue is so common for a engine sitting for years. I say get it running then decide to tear it apart ... others say tear it apart first. Is this a driver or a museum piece? I would think a 1962 falcon station wagon hauling it around a field would be appropriate to get the engine running.

Nice job on checking the compression. You are in great shape and will be some work ... you got this! First off, the old school rings when sitting. They tend to freeze or get gummed up ... their job is to open up and seal the oil/compression. But with old oil and sitting, they just do not move. Working properly they expand & contract with heat and rotate around the ring landings in the piston. This seals the compression in the cylinder. But sitting for awhile, you may need to use some marvel mystery oil, some atf/acetone 50/50 in the cylinders to free up the rings and get them rotating again. The cylinder with zero compression is normal. Same cure. The valve stem pass through the valve guide. The narrow passage of the guide it gets gummed up, valve stays open and spring does not pull it back down. Just a common problem ... first engine I touched had stuck valves on 5 cylinders. Just a common issue. If you can get the engine to start, do a few heat cycles the valves & rings will free up. Soak it up in oil for a few days, then try again. Then run another compression check and see where you going ... then again later. You may end up pulling it back down and working on it. But the compression you posted kinda sounds normal for a engine sitting awhile. Will improve with heat cycles..

Yeah being a automatic ... kinda sounds wrong but not impossible. ... A fluid drive? Maybe. ... The op posted it is a 2 door. Most truck are. Might be worth restoring if it was a fluid drive? OP states they want to part it out. Or do they mean they want to sell the whole truck as 1 item for parts? A lot of questions here. @tinlizzybe nice to have more information as to what you really have. Then there is a classified section here to actually advertise. I am hoping you will advertise there I need some parts. Here in this thread, we are still making conversation to figure out what you have for sale. You will need to make a separate post in classifieds to sell them. Just the rules. But this thread is very valid while we figure out what it is you have for sale.

Simple, they have the only alignment rack in town And was the owner of the shop not a worker. He did the original alignment on the caravan when I bought the new tires from him. And he did my truck also when I bought tires for it. He knows how to do the job and is good at it. Maybe I pissed him off by not paying him to change the struts? To be honest he is not the best shop in town, locals complain he charges too much. Same time he has a large shop on the freeway off ramp, several mechanics & constantly busy. A lot of Diesel work. So bringing a 1993 sh*t box caravan for a alignment, meh ... took 2 days before he found time to work on it.

It was loose, I put 2 full turns on the holding screw. Just to check how loose it was. End of day putting tools away and just tightened it to satisfy curiosity. I thought it was looser then that, it has a plastic cover & a metal shield going over the plug. They still wiggle a little bit. I think the next few days I will remove the plug, clean everything up ... figure out why the shields are still loose ... is the bolt too long? Do I need to add a washer? I think this is the problem, still needs more attention. every chance i get, i replace the whole unit,main reason is i dont want it coming back needing a mount/bearing assy in 3 months. And i cant see any real saving in buying the cheapest strut on the planet. But, to each his own, buy what the budget allows. Struts are pretty cheap if you do not buy the whole assembly. Good gas was $90? Quality standard was $45. Cheapest struts were $12 ... Mine were normally $35, but on a clearance sale for $16. Now if I took it to a shop and paid shop labor rates to swap over the springs, would be better off to replace whole unit. The mechanic that did the alignment pissed me off. Was only the camber they needed to adjust. Or tried to adjust .... it steers fine and the old alignment seemed to be spot on. Camber was off from strut installation. Passenger side adjusted fine, Drivers side he said he adjusted the cam as far as it would go ... could use a little more but just cheap struts and poor fitment .... not his problem. Next time buy them from me. If you look at the 3 top bolts on top of shock tower, you can see witness marks from old strut placement. The holes are not slotted, but larger then the studs. You can loosen the top and shove it over almost a 1/4". And have all the adjustment you need on the bottom. I just assumed that would be part of the process. He spent 15 min on the job adjusting the camber, said the best he could do and charged $100 + tax. I just smiled and paid. Now I will fix it myself.

I just feel I need to add some closure to this thread ... Not positive all is fixed yet. Took me 5 days to get the tank & pump out. Then I found out Rockauto sent me the wrong fuel pump. While ordering a new pump from Amazon, I replaced the struts I ordered from Rockauto. Only took 2 days ... maybe 3 to install the tank .... But I got er did! I only tightened the wire harness ... I feel it was not the issue, yet I did get 2 turns on the bolt to hold it. We drove it the other day for a 1 hour trip, we had no problems with it. I took it in for a alignment, took 2 days to get it back. Today we took it for a 4 hour drive. 1.5 hours to Abilene, 1 hour around town making a few stops, 1.5 hours back at 80 mph. It performed perfect. So we have about 7 hours driving time on it. I am still skeptical if the problem is solved. But the journey I have learned much about the 3.3L engine & the A604 transmission ... Confident I can fix any future issues. ? ? ?

Are you sure about this? .... If a + ground coil from new has been run in the 3600 rpm range, ran that way all of it's life .... It is the side of the coil that the energy is coming in from .... A simple way to explain it, you are getting power from + or - on the coil ... electricity flows both ways. I really do not think it matters if it is 6 volt, 12 volt ... ballast resistors do matter. But if you switch polarity on any used coil, you will run into strange issues at higher rpm. The coil is basically broke in to run one direction, when you swap polarity it is now running a different direction. .... while rpm matter and where you notice it. I would think the rpm is connected to the motor and not the coil.

I am just asking because not sure .... If it is a original + ground car, you hook the battery up this way. Can you tell by the way the volt meter is working? ... if it is charging it is correct ... if it is discharging then you need to switch the battery connections? Make sure the radio is not turned on, other then that I do not think anything would be hurt if installed backwards. Or is there a better way to tell?

I have seen some videos on the strengthener of the 9". Seems they would add some gussets to the housing. Now days they sell kits for them. Back in the day they were doing it in the garage with scrap metal. While the housings had some weak points that needed some beefing up to handle the power, they did that and used them behind nitro dragsters. Today they are still using the same concept. Dennis Taylor building his car, He is hoping to get it in 6 seconds on the 1/4 mile. Rear end is all custom, no parts say Ford on it. But a custom built set of gears for a Ford 9" is the heart of it. He ordered his with larger side bearings etc ... he is running full floating axles on it like a 3/4 ton truck. His thoughts is for safety, if it breaks a axle you wont lose the rear wheel. Might cost him some speed but his daughter is also driving the car.

I know my 1996 explorer had rear drums. Thinking around 1999 or 2000 they came factory with rear disk brakes ... really not sure on the year of the switch but newer explorers have rear disk. Just seems it would be easier to find a 10 or 15 year old car in the wrecking yard with rear disk, then a 30 year old with drums. Not sure what search parameters you are using for your search. As far as I know, the widths never changed from older to newer explorers and newer will work fine. I can see where the 4:10 may be harder to find, less of them made as the explorer was more of a family 4 door suv market. My 1996 with 4:10 was the 2 door sport model. It had a badge on the fender that said sport. Any 4:10 come available and the jeep'ers would snatch them up. But they are out there.

Have you considered rebuilding the existing front suspension, adding a disk brake conversion ... tweaking it some maybe a stronger sway bar and better bushings etc? ... they really were a decent front suspension for it's time. Possibly replace it later if it does not do what you want? Just tossing a idea out there ...

The Ford explorer 8.8 will come with disk brakes on newer models, older is drum. They come with many different gear ratio's. My 96 explorer 2 door sport had 4:10 ratio ... it was fun with the 5 or 6 speed auto trans. They are a very common swap for these vehicles .. width and wheel bolt pattern is correct. I hear they are not as strong as a Ford 9" ... but really close to it. You have to admit the 9" has a reputation thats hard to beat. If you insist on mopar, the Jeep Cherokee also fits, comes with disk brakes and many different ratio ... is owned by mopar ... no clue in strength how they stack up against the 8.8.

This is one of those moments you want to spend time on. What is your goal for your car? Keeping it 6 volt is fine, are you sure you do not want to convert to 12 volt? This is a choice you need to decide for your application.

Life is a journey. We all have the same destination, it is the ride and how we get there that matters. I suspect @Sniper friend enjoyed having the projects and staying busy, he enjoyed his life. I do agree is something to think about, who will be affected by your passing? My only worry is my wife. Not just croaking off ... you die and game over. Thats the easy way out. What if you just lose your ability to earn a living? I never planned to become disabled. When we are young some like me never think about earning a living. I call this the house from Hades. I was 48 years old and on top of my game. This was the house I burned out my back on ... 4 bedrooms, 3 bath, 2 story, 2 car garage Adition on a 100 year old adobe home in Old town Albuquerque. While it ruined me, I really love this house ... it is awesome. Another photo of a kitchen remodel. They wanted the 6 burner gas stove ... yes there was a lot involved, electricians did their job, plumbers did theirs, I was lead carpenter on a crew and we did the rest. I did the drywall, cabinets & tile, paint. Another photo of a bathroom remodel I did ... I really think it is stupid, but a professor at the local collage wanted this ... Yes Mam. See where I am going? I never thought I would have to worry about creating a living. I got this sh*t handled! You never know what cards life will hand you. Dying is the easy way out .... lets get disabled and no longer be able to create a living. I just never saw it coming. I thought I would work til I die. Lets be honest here ... I managed for 3 years before I lost my house and became homeless. Been with my wife 36 years and that really hurts. Her father helped us out for 2 years. Her father supplied us with a travel trailer with no water for 2 years. That is social security making it difficult to retire on disability. All said and done all is paid for, our house our cars ... we have no bills. Our life is now great, not really the life we planned. I thought it would be different, same time it is pretty decent. So I say death is the easy way out. The journey is what makes us great.

I watch a lot of his videos, his wife drives a ls swapped dodge & not really into them. Last winter he chopped a think it was a 52 or 53 Plymouth ... pretty cool stuff but not really my deal. I like to watch his problem solving skills and how he works through them He built the General now that is a cool truck. A lot of fabrication skills mating the 2 International cabs creating a 4 door mounted on a Dodge cummins chassis. Making the bed and the rear fenders. The 22.5 super single semi tires ... one heck of a tow rig.

Not sure if it was a factory ordered option at the time ... many things were. My B1C had the spare tire carrier and also my B1B has it.

Sounds about right to me. Even for old school drum brakes. I replaced the hydraulics in my brakes last year, but still not driving it. I wont bother to adjust the brakes until they are set in place from braking. Actual driving. While disc brakes will self adjust, there still is a break in period to get everything set in place from all the hydraulic pressure. Kinda reminds me of piston rings. There are different brands, chrome molly, iron ... all need different break in procedures. Reminds me of a old customer, lady in her 70's and bought a new corvette in 2016? Not surprised if it had ceramic brakes ... she was not reading any manual she just drove the piss out of it. .... And the brakes worked.

Well almost done mowing the lawn ... watched that short clip and saw they were cheating ... well you know. Cutting the body up and extending the frames ... make a altered wheel base to run in stock class ... hrmph! Reminds me of the story where the old man always bragged about his 35 dodge race car. His kid was driving dad to town one day in his chebby truck and when he took off he lit up the tires and then he banged the gears and went sideways and banged the gears again and straightened it out. While cruising to town he asked his father if that was how his old dodge ran? Naw replied the father, my car hooked up. Back to mowing the lawn!

No idea if he could beat Ronnie or not, but he did drive there 2nd car a few times in part 1, now am finding out there is 4 parts to the series and here is a short 11 min video shows him driving for Sox & Martin. Maybe I'll watch after I mow the lawn ... just got weed eating done now.

I honestly never heard of this guy before. Ran across this video in another forum and I thought it was interesting. He started off racing chebby's but was interesting how he was introduced to mopar Hemi 4 speed cars. This is just part 1, there is part 2 also. I dunno maybe I just wanted to get out of cutting the grass .... kk I'll go mow the lawn now

You sure not a girl that goes with it? Not saying is a bad thing .... just a thing.

@Los_Control puts on his best Grumpy old man face. You young whipper snappers ... you left things alone you would not need ceramic brakes. In my day we used ceramic to separate the wires the telephone man left. .... Dumb ass electrician should have left his teeth out of the equation. Los growls for proper identification.