Los_Control

Sure is looking good though. You have a full set of those wheels? thinking you would need to install studs in the hubs to use correct lug nuts and washers. Then with the bigger B1C studs, wondered if it would be easier to add spacers bolted to the hubs with 1/2" standard studs installed. Couple weeks ago I ran into a issue mounting wheels on this old trailer, had to drill out the bolt holes on the wheels, so the shank of the lug nuts would fit. And that worked fine, they hooked it up here and drug it right over to Tacoma with no issues. Just dont mess with the machined surface for the washers. Love those wheels!

All the magic in the fluid drive happens in the bell housing, you can see photos here

I think I have that transmissions sister. Fluid drive the bellhousing is different and much deeper, the front shaft of the trans needs to be about a foot long to reach the pilot shaft bushing on crank. Pretty sure you would be able to look at the bellhousing and tell if it was a fluid drive. Mine is not fluid drive. I had a post here on the forum about my trans, is in my 1952 B2B parts truck. I know the truck is a column shift, I thought I had a top loader trans installed. I do not have nor have seen the top that you have. So in theory, looks like you could find the top part of a 3 speed top loader and bolt it on and make it a floor shift. In my thread, I was told Fred told hank that Tom tried this once, and it did not work. Would not shift properly. But it might be possible to fabricate it so it would work. Maybe with the combination of your shift forks and a top loader shifter? I have no first hand experience working on these transmissions. Just a guess that it will not be a simple bolt on solution. I would probably spend some time cleaning up what you have, make it operational. Will be able to use it while you search for another solution. Without the top of that transmission, all you have is a bucket of parts like me.

I only know what I read and sometimes cant trust the source or my memory ... Pretty sure that all 230 cranks will have the 8 bolt flange. Waiting to see if I guessed correctly!

Lets just hope she does not turn around and sell it, For what 59bisquik said he paid for it

Is a terrible picture and not of the complete radiator, but this is a 1952 1/2 ton pickup, does it look like your radiator? Thinking yours may not be original. second photo is 1949 but same thing

Would just be a standard American threads, assuming pipe threads. But I do not know what size they are. Home depot right off of Montano has them in their plumbing department. And so would just about any other home depot ... is a brass petcock. Is there something wrong with the one you have? usually clean up and work well, believe they are left handed threads to open them.

Well back then, all we had were Fords ... so we walked everywhere.

Seems like it should have vacuum advance, I would want it. I know a lot of these engines were used for industrial and farm purpose, they just sat and ran at one speed all the time and had no vacuum advance. For normal driving conditions you would want it.

If someone is not use to a carburated engine, this might seem like a problem. To me it sounds normal for a engine as old as yours is. With modern computerized fuel injection the computer senses and controls the air/fuel mixture, along with tighter machined tolerances, you notice very little difference when a engine is cold or warm. With old engines you need the hand operated choke to richen the fuel, you decide not some computer. Then these engines need to get the metal hot, it expands and seals up the engine, possibly increasing compression, vacuum . It is just normal that it would run better after it was warmed up. My last ford work truck, 1987 E250, 351 HO with a 500 cfm holley when you kicked on the choke and fired her up in the morning, that fast idle and rich fuel mixture .... I AM WOMAN HEAR ME RAWR! Man she sounded good with the dual exhaust and ready for work, kick off the choke to early, she would fall flat on her face and die.

Put some oil in the cylinders and soak them, if it has been sitting for any length of time. Some prefer special oils like marvel mystery oil, myself I have been using ATF. Just any light oil would work. If the engine is froze you could fill the cylinders and soak them, if the engine is not froze, the oil will help loosen the rings and help them re-seat. My truck sat since 1978, I put atf in the cylinders and let it soak for a couple weeks before trying to turn it over. And when I did turn it over, I just grabbed it by the fan belt and rocked it back and forth then rolled it over with the plugs out. Then I put some more oil in them for the next 6 months while doing other projects. Now I turn it over with the starter. You dont need to wait as long as I did, you could add atf and then try and see right away if you can rock it back and forth. But I would add oil first. My uncle has a 1947 ford flathead v8, I started putting atf in the cylinders last December, several times since then and still do not know if it is froze or not. But it will be ready when we are.

These oil bath air cleaners, I suppose they work. If they worked so great, why do new cars not have oil bath air cleaners? Then they remind me of roofing tar. You crawl up on a roof, there will be a bucket of tar 3' away, stuff just jumps out of the bucket. Gets on your pants, then your shoes, then you track it everywhere .... cleaning up spots of tar for 3 days after. I removed the air cleaner from my truck and set it on the running boards, it started making a mess there, I wiped it all down and set it in the cab on the floor and it started making a mess again. I took it up to the oil barrel and drained all the oil out and set it on the bench, it started weeping and making a mess there. I then put it in the parts washer and cleaned it up and wiped it down, still my hands got all oily every time I touched it. Now it is all cleaned dry and painted. Would like to move to a paper filter without modifying it. Or I have a old ford oil bath here, I would not care if I modified it. Even made a hub cap for it, so could be like the cool kids

The visor is aftermarket and adjustable, slides in and out of the center trim piece and adjust for width. So it will fit, not really thinking about using it on the truck, but will try it to see if I change my mind. The rear bumper is in real nice shape and my 49 has no bumper. So I want to try it and see, and bumper brackets bolt to the frame, I think with minor mods it would work. Of course if I put a chrome bumper on the rear, would want to use the front also. The front the chrome is starting to peel on the bottom, but all that can be fixed, if the width and fit is good. So I have been thinking about using them, They will be slightly wider but not by much.

my brother inlaw said would drive me by Grandmas old place so can take measurements off of my parts truck. I think the rear end will be the same width as my 1949. I just got off the phone with my uncle, he says we can just shove the axles back in the plymouth and load it on the trailer without a center section, I think he is right. See I honestly thought the 52 plymouth would be a direct bolt in. I was caught off guard yesterday when I found out it would not. So I think the plan now is, leave my truck alone. Put the 3:73 center section in this rear end, new bearings seals and brakes etc ... then put it in my 1949. Sorry for being so confusing. I thought I had everything all figured out, planned on junking the 52 pilothouse rear end, now I need to rebuild it and use it. And if I measure it tomorrow, find out it also needs modification, then can consider all the other options mentioned. All depends on this 52 plymouth center section bolting into this 52 dodge pilothouse then bolting it into my 49 pilothouse .... I mean what could go wrong?

I have a 1952 plymouth suburban, when I looked up gear ratios, all 1952 plymouth suburbans had 3:73 gears. So this is the info I am going off of for my swap, something you can keep in mind for your search.

Years ago, I worked at a glass shop, we did residential and commercial buildings, not automobiles. Everything you say is true. For broken windows, we would make patterns or get exact measurements, once a week a delivery truck showed up and took the patterns, between 1 or 2 weeks the new glass was delivered. Tempered would be way better then safety glass. I just kinda thought it was cost prohibitive and out of reach. Since I need to replace all my glass, will check into tempered. Thanks for the tip.

There is a good howto article on making the repairs yourself, or is a member here that also does repairs and believe he also made the how to article. You might give it a try yourself, or read the article and see if instructions where to send one. http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge

Thanks Don, if you look at that, says all mopars 37-48 with 47" spring width. This matches my 49 pilothouse. I see nowhere on the chart for 1952, maybe in those years they varied to much. So I am only guessing the 52 dodge pilothouse is same width as 49 pilothouse, the car widths varied.

Thanks merle, main reason why not considering that, but you give me another idea. I want to get rid of the B1C 5 on 5 bolt pattern. My front axle has already been switched to 5 on 4.50, 40 years ago when last on the road.so would need to carry two spares. Just saying, I want the bolt pattern on the axles, as much as I want the gear ratio. If the center section from the plymouth would swap, I then put the plymouth rear end back in the car with my 4.10 gears so it can be moved. Am afraid will have to put it on a trailer and haul it to the scrap yard to dispose of. No wrecking yards would come pick it up. So I can take off whatever I want, just have to be able to roll it around for easy disposal. So molly gets the 3:73, keeps the current 5 on 5 bolt pattern, then later when convenient, I can pull the axles/brake drums from the parts truck and swap them into molly. My thought is, if the plymouth fits the b1c, the b2b will also be close enough can mix and match. So we get rid of the plymouth by Jan first, (self imposed date) And I have all the parts needed to take my time and build the rear end for molly with all new brakes, seals and bearings and the 2 truck rear ends. Hope that makes sense, I just thought the b1c with the bigger brakes, bolt pattern and funny ujoints, would not be a match, did not consider or even measure to see if the center section would fit. Of course this all depends on if I have 28 spline axles.

I have question on the rear end, wonder if anyone knows or can point me in correct direction. The rear end from the 52 plymouth suburban is 2" narrower then Molly's b1c rear end. I did not expect this. When I pulled the rear end out of the plymouth and measured, I contemplated shoving it back in there and forget about it. I decided to move forward with the swap, I need the 5 on 4.50 bolt pattern so it will match the front, I want the 3:73 gears, and I like that it is period correct, instead of a modern jeep or explorer rear end ... and its already mine. I am guessing that 1" narrower on each side wont really matter that much if any. What about tracking? planning on wider tires in the rear anyways. And expect I will have to weld in new spring perches. So now I am wondering/thinking that my 52 b1b parts truck will have the correct width axle housing, does anyone know if the 52 plymouth center section with 3:73 gears will work in that 52 dodge 1/2 ton rear end housing using those axles? Just not easy for me to get over to the parts truck, is parked on some property my grandmother owned. Thought would ask here. Here is a recent photo, 6 month update of the truck, not much has changed. I put it on blocks a couple weeks ago to prepare for the rear end swap. Look where I put the blocks. I drug the pressure washer down several weeks ago, was surprised but pleased, how easy the blue paint was coming off. When I get it rolling and yard driving, I want to pull it up next to the shop, take my time with a garden hose and bucket of water, try to preserve as much original paint as I can. So I just saw what I could do and stopped there. Figure somewhere between a week and a month, would be a red truck again. The floor cleaned up pretty good, there is a few pin holes and a little ragged around the floor board panels, but a little rust protection and paint and will last a few more years yet. Until ready to do a proper repaint. As far as running, I think it is ready, gone through the fuel system and distributor. The starter had bad brushes, so I put another used starter in it. Then like a idiot, I turned the engine over to build up oil pressure. With the plugs in it. With a 12 volt battery. I think my used starter now needs new brushes. But it was really promising, it sounded like no compression at all at first. I have been adding atf to the cylinders and rolling her over by hand for the past year. The more it turned over, I could hear and feel the compression returning. I have a rebuilt 218 short block in the shed, was bought 20 years ago and stored inside, the head was never installed on it. It has to come apart and hone the cylinders, hoping it does not need rebored and new pistons. So I moved on to the under carriage. Basically the front drums are frozen, why the tie rod got bent and front wheel broke while moving it around the yard. Sure they moved while we towed it, but I can not turn them by hand with it sitting on blocks. Will disassemble, clean and inspect the complete front end, save what is worth saving. With no budget to work with, is going slower then I want, but with all the leg work out of the way, will go much faster when there is a budget. Not given up on her yet. Need to rest up a few days after pulling the rear end, then go spend a few more days out there playing with molly.

Love old tools, would like to have a little one like that to setup on the bench.

So I am going to try this again. I have been bouncing around this forum for over a year. And having problems staying in the same thread and making sense. About 6 months ago I realized how bad my memory and confusion was. And it started 5 years ago. I was given some medication that caused me neuropathic pain, and all the confusion issues. I stopped taking the medication 1.5 years ago, and after 1 year, my mind cleared up enough to recognize how messed up I really was. Then I started talking with my DR about that and taking some meds that help, and now going to a psychiatrist to see if we can figure it out. (we are going to argue a lot) But the symptoms of early Alzheimer would describe me pretty good. But the longer away from the medication I was on, the better I am getting. I want no sympathy, just giving a explanation on why I have been so scattered brained over the last year. And I just have to laugh at myself and the funny things I do. I have had zero budget to work on this truck, Been fighting social security disability for 5 years because cant tell them (in the past) what was wrong with me. So my lawyer and I have a hearing coming up in 2 months, will be the deciding factor on my claim, I would expect my claim to be accepted at that time as 80% of claims are drug to the hearing and won there. And a small budget will be created and work will get done. Biggest issue now, I do not have gas money to go there and putter around on molly when I want. When I do, I stay for a couple days, and drag home boxes of parts and work on them here . I think molly time is fitting, as the old truck kinda keeps me grounded and from going totally insane. When I stay at Uncles to work on the truck, you need to be careful going outside after dark, cats are kind of ornery.

I should apologize and, more info. those are actually 2 different wheels. One that is not broke is the left front and broke is the right front. The right front cracked while we were towing it around in the yard, it broke when I put it on the tire machine and dismounted the tire. The rear wheels look the same also. I have a 52 plymouth that am parting out, and all the wheels on it are the same. Both of these vehicles spent time in the Seattle/Tacoma area where it rains constantly. This could be why my wheels are so bad. Here in the dry south east part of the state, I have a small farmers utility trailer with a pre 47 dodge straight axle, and the wheels look really good on it. I have a 52 b1b parts truck and the wheels do look good on it also. Will have to break them down and inspect them. When I was a kid, I got a job pumping gas, when I came into work and it was slow, there were always a pile of customers tires that were left for repair. I liked fixing them, was left alone back in the corner and nobody bothered me, boss loved it because nobody else wanted the job. Then I started doing service work, changing semi tires on the side of the interstate Then for 15 years I retreaded semi truck tires and became the repairman and eventually manager of the shop. Then I decided to be a carpenter But all the time while in the tire business, We had discounts on new tires/wheels, just take a little out of your pay each week. Everything I drove had new tires and custom wheels. Then we would sell them off our cars, just to get a excuse to buy another different set and try them. I am just a little anal about wheels. And with all the new custom wheels I have owned, my favorite cars over the years had stock black wheels with beauty rings and dog dishes.

Love it when I get a chance to come over and work on Molly. Seems like every time I try, my uncle has something else that needs to be done. Being disabled does not help much, I can do everything, just have to sit down and take a break every 15 - 20 min or so. I got my wheels broke down and need to take them home to clean and paint. Just thought would show a photo of why I do not want stock wheels. I just dont trust them for a daily driver, and like the beauty ring/dog dish, and they will fit over disk brakes. Got the plymouth suburban on blocks, start stripping it tomorrow. Putting the whole rear axle assembly with 3:73 gears in Molly.

I looked at a home made brake on the internet once, Was just about 24" long and mounted like a stinger in your trucks hitch. Something small and portable like that would get a lot of use from me. Alas, lost the link and never found another