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Los_Control

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Everything posted by Los_Control

  1. Just knowing was recent work makes me wonder. As you say the head bolts are wrong and no sealer. Real question is, did he re torque the head multiple times afterwards? metal expands when it gets hot so the studs get just a little longer and release pressure then cool and shrink a little. Basically I would torque the head then start it and let it get to operating temp and torque again, take it for a short 10 mile drive or so, then torque again. and then maybe at 100 miles and torque again. Some say 3 times is enough, I might do 4. If I thought there was any movement while torquin
  2. I do not remember the model, is a 1948 8' x25' all aluminum. I am helping my uncle clean up, he is 81 and not wanting to leave a big mess for his kids to deal with. He gave the trailer to his Grand daughter. She plans to restore the exterior, and turn the interior into a mobile photo booth. Have different screens for back drops to hang up, she is on the hunt for a period correct street rod pickup to tow it with. Go around to different events and setup shop. Of course she plans to use the truck and trailer as tax write off for the business. I wish her luck, sounds like fun.
  3. Sure is looking good though. You have a full set of those wheels? thinking you would need to install studs in the hubs to use correct lug nuts and washers. Then with the bigger B1C studs, wondered if it would be easier to add spacers bolted to the hubs with 1/2" standard studs installed. Couple weeks ago I ran into a issue mounting wheels on this old trailer, had to drill out the bolt holes on the wheels, so the shank of the lug nuts would fit. And that worked fine, they hooked it up here and drug it right over to Tacoma with no issues. Just dont mess with the machined surface f
  4. All the magic in the fluid drive happens in the bell housing, you can see photos here
  5. I think I have that transmissions sister. Fluid drive the bellhousing is different and much deeper, the front shaft of the trans needs to be about a foot long to reach the pilot shaft bushing on crank. Pretty sure you would be able to look at the bellhousing and tell if it was a fluid drive. Mine is not fluid drive. I had a post here on the forum about my trans, is in my 1952 B2B parts truck. I know the truck is a column shift, I thought I had a top loader trans installed. I do not have nor have seen the top that you have. So in theory, looks like you could find the top part
  6. I only know what I read and sometimes cant trust the source or my memory ... Pretty sure that all 230 cranks will have the 8 bolt flange. Waiting to see if I guessed correctly!
  7. Lets just hope she does not turn around and sell it, For what 59bisquik said he paid for it
  8. Is a terrible picture and not of the complete radiator, but this is a 1952 1/2 ton pickup, does it look like your radiator? Thinking yours may not be original. second photo is 1949 but same thing
  9. Would just be a standard American threads, assuming pipe threads. But I do not know what size they are. Home depot right off of Montano has them in their plumbing department. And so would just about any other home depot ... is a brass petcock. Is there something wrong with the one you have? usually clean up and work well, believe they are left handed threads to open them.
  10. Well back then, all we had were Fords ... so we walked everywhere.
  11. Seems like it should have vacuum advance, I would want it. I know a lot of these engines were used for industrial and farm purpose, they just sat and ran at one speed all the time and had no vacuum advance. For normal driving conditions you would want it.
  12. If someone is not use to a carburated engine, this might seem like a problem. To me it sounds normal for a engine as old as yours is. With modern computerized fuel injection the computer senses and controls the air/fuel mixture, along with tighter machined tolerances, you notice very little difference when a engine is cold or warm. With old engines you need the hand operated choke to richen the fuel, you decide not some computer. Then these engines need to get the metal hot, it expands and seals up the engine, possibly increasing compression, vacuum . It is just normal th
  13. Put some oil in the cylinders and soak them, if it has been sitting for any length of time. Some prefer special oils like marvel mystery oil, myself I have been using ATF. Just any light oil would work. If the engine is froze you could fill the cylinders and soak them, if the engine is not froze, the oil will help loosen the rings and help them re-seat. My truck sat since 1978, I put atf in the cylinders and let it soak for a couple weeks before trying to turn it over. And when I did turn it over, I just grabbed it by the fan belt and rocked it back and forth then rolled it over wit
  14. These oil bath air cleaners, I suppose they work. If they worked so great, why do new cars not have oil bath air cleaners? Then they remind me of roofing tar. You crawl up on a roof, there will be a bucket of tar 3' away, stuff just jumps out of the bucket. Gets on your pants, then your shoes, then you track it everywhere .... cleaning up spots of tar for 3 days after. I removed the air cleaner from my truck and set it on the running boards, it started making a mess there, I wiped it all down and set it in the cab on the floor and it started making a mess again. I to
  15. The visor is aftermarket and adjustable, slides in and out of the center trim piece and adjust for width. So it will fit, not really thinking about using it on the truck, but will try it to see if I change my mind. The rear bumper is in real nice shape and my 49 has no bumper. So I want to try it and see, and bumper brackets bolt to the frame, I think with minor mods it would work. Of course if I put a chrome bumper on the rear, would want to use the front also. The front the chrome is starting to peel on the bottom, but all that can be fixed, if the width and fit is good. So I have
  16. my brother inlaw said would drive me by Grandmas old place so can take measurements off of my parts truck. I think the rear end will be the same width as my 1949. I just got off the phone with my uncle, he says we can just shove the axles back in the plymouth and load it on the trailer without a center section, I think he is right. See I honestly thought the 52 plymouth would be a direct bolt in. I was caught off guard yesterday when I found out it would not. So I think the plan now is, leave my truck alone. Put the 3:73 center section in this rear end, new be
  17. I have a 1952 plymouth suburban, when I looked up gear ratios, all 1952 plymouth suburbans had 3:73 gears. So this is the info I am going off of for my swap, something you can keep in mind for your search.
  18. Years ago, I worked at a glass shop, we did residential and commercial buildings, not automobiles. Everything you say is true. For broken windows, we would make patterns or get exact measurements, once a week a delivery truck showed up and took the patterns, between 1 or 2 weeks the new glass was delivered. Tempered would be way better then safety glass. I just kinda thought it was cost prohibitive and out of reach. Since I need to replace all my glass, will check into tempered. Thanks for the tip.
  19. There is a good howto article on making the repairs yourself, or is a member here that also does repairs and believe he also made the how to article. You might give it a try yourself, or read the article and see if instructions where to send one. http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge
  20. Thanks Don, if you look at that, says all mopars 37-48 with 47" spring width. This matches my 49 pilothouse. I see nowhere on the chart for 1952, maybe in those years they varied to much. So I am only guessing the 52 dodge pilothouse is same width as 49 pilothouse, the car widths varied.
  21. Thanks merle, main reason why not considering that, but you give me another idea. I want to get rid of the B1C 5 on 5 bolt pattern. My front axle has already been switched to 5 on 4.50, 40 years ago when last on the road.so would need to carry two spares. Just saying, I want the bolt pattern on the axles, as much as I want the gear ratio. If the center section from the plymouth would swap, I then put the plymouth rear end back in the car with my 4.10 gears so it can be moved. Am afraid will have to put it on a trailer and haul it to the scrap yard to dispose of. No w
  22. I have question on the rear end, wonder if anyone knows or can point me in correct direction. The rear end from the 52 plymouth suburban is 2" narrower then Molly's b1c rear end. I did not expect this. When I pulled the rear end out of the plymouth and measured, I contemplated shoving it back in there and forget about it. I decided to move forward with the swap, I need the 5 on 4.50 bolt pattern so it will match the front, I want the 3:73 gears, and I like that it is period correct, instead of a modern jeep or explorer rear end ... and its already mine. I am guessing
  23. Love old tools, would like to have a little one like that to setup on the bench.
  24. So I am going to try this again. I have been bouncing around this forum for over a year. And having problems staying in the same thread and making sense. About 6 months ago I realized how bad my memory and confusion was. And it started 5 years ago. I was given some medication that caused me neuropathic pain, and all the confusion issues. I stopped taking the medication 1.5 years ago, and after 1 year, my mind cleared up enough to recognize how messed up I really was. Then I started talking with my DR about that and taking some meds that help, and now going to a psychiatrist to see i
  25. I should apologize and, more info. those are actually 2 different wheels. One that is not broke is the left front and broke is the right front. The right front cracked while we were towing it around in the yard, it broke when I put it on the tire machine and dismounted the tire. The rear wheels look the same also. I have a 52 plymouth that am parting out, and all the wheels on it are the same. Both of these vehicles spent time in the Seattle/Tacoma area where it rains constantly. This could be why my wheels are so bad. Here in the dry south east part of the state, I have a
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