shane_thompson

Thanks Keith. I’ll check this out

Yeah im trying this next time I see the truck

Camarillo

Ok I’ll report back. However, what’s wrong with doing this for #1 cyl like I did?

So then how shall I reset the oil pump? And what must I do after it’s installed properly? How do I know it IS installed properly after all that too?

And I don’t have access to a hand crank, so I need to try it with a friend again

I did a wet and dry test twice and the numbers came out the same. i basically went wet and dry starting on #1, then wet and dry again after charging the battery starting from #6 this time. This way I thought I can really confidently verify the numbers are right. from what I believe, I feel as battery power doesnt affect the compression numbers much, as it measures the air pressure inside the cylinder when it’s the top of it’s stroke, not how much force is applied to that stroke.

The oil pump wasn’t installed willy nilly because the mechanic would know better not to do that. The block is 7 years younger than the truck. “Timing” was already verified when we: 1. #1 to TDC 2. distributor spark plugs in order of manual 3. condenser functions with bright spark 4. new spark plugs 5. manual says 2 degrees ATDC which the crank case measuring gear said around 2-4 degrees with #1 at TDC. We checked every spark plug, recharged the battery, checked all points for resistance, and even bought a new battery to be sure. I have not replaced the cables, but they do not seem corroded on the outside points. “Fuel” was verified as: 1. Manifold had a fine mist of fuel 2. vapor coming out tailpipe 4. spark plugs smelled like a gas/burning smell. the only other thing I can think of is that the battery cables need to be replaced along with the starter. But the starter runs fine. One thing I notice is the fuel pump does not feed fuel into the carb, so I have to pour fuel straight into the bowl, and it does the trick. PS: I might as well refurbish the worn parts in the engine anyways, or myself or someone else will have to just do it a few years later if something catastrophic doesnt conclude the engine.

Drop in numbers means stuck valves. Similar numbers means the pistons or rings are warped/worn

It’s the valves and (maybe) cylinders. Especially #4 bore. Here are the numbers with a compression test in PSI: Dry Test (psi) Cyl. 1: 60 Cyl. 2: 62 Cyl. 3: 62 Cyl. 4: 59 Cyl. 5: 90 and 90 Cyl. 6: 90 Wet Test Cyl. 1: 58 Cyl. 2: 50 Cyl. 3: 60 Cyl. 4: 35 Cyl. 5: 60 Cyl. 6: 70–60

UPDATE: looks like stuck valves gentlemen. Did wet and dry tests for all cylinders. Looks like the head is coming off now to re-seat. Breaker-bar time. Coolant has to come out too.

I will try this but as I test this sucker, I pull the spark plugs out and notice they all smell off. Possibly a fuel burn smell. All bark no bite maybe? Which could indicate a timing problem. Anyways the distributor manipulation is the hardest for me, so I’ll get to work on that after this compression test today, and reply the numbers to keith

Wanna know the ironic thing? Your videos are what’s getting me through this relatively smoothly. Lol But anyways, compression test tomorrow, fingers crossed.

i made a list at the top of everything that has been checked for the truck thus for. That needs to be read first. Here’s a list of updated work regardless: Compression - checking exact readings tomorrow Spark Timing - has been correctly timed and inspected Fuel - turns into a fine mist And i already have a service manual from 41’ I have been using. It misses out on a fee things so it isn’t perfect.