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Everything posted by Los_Control

  1. I have only seen it once before, a 1969 dodge dart and the impeller on the water pump rusted and broke off. Was no water leaking but no water pumping either ...... so yes it is possible
  2. Maybe I read it wrong, thought we were talking something smaller to just access difficult bellhousing bolts. A 6"x6" hole in the right location might work. On the other hand, some cuss words and a 3 foot extension with a wobbly would work also.
  3. I would call it a improvement. Only reason why mopar did not provide the inspection cover, was to save a dollar in manufacturing. I had to replace the fuel pump in my wifes explorer. I removed the back seat and cut a plate out and removed the pump without removing the tank. I made up a new tin plate and some caulking, put the seat back in, never once did I think I harmed the value of the vehicle by making it easier to work on.
  4. I am asking, because I do not know. My first thoughts would be to clean the pan and then use a decent oil and mix in some transmission fluid to clean the engine. Would all the crap plugging up the oil pickup screen be the concern? Would pulling the pan a second time and clean again be acceptable?
  5. We like to hope they all ran when parked, that is not always true. So if you do not know the history ..... I just bring this up, have a 52 plymouth with a flatty 218. Grandpa drove it like he stole it, spun a bearing in it. The motor is locked up tight because of a bad bearing. And these motors do not like high rpm's, you could easily have a bad bearing.
  6. Is great to hear you are healing well, keep at it!
  7. The chevys starter is on the right hand side of the engine, opposite the dodges on the left. The chevy floor starter connects to a linkage that goes behind the head to the other side and connects to the starter. On my dodge foot starter, the original was broke and I found another from a different truck, international I guess, it bolts right up and rest on top of the starter.
  8. When looking at the plugs, is the edge of the electrode that shows the wear. Worn the edge will be rounded, sometimes they are no longer flat and slope to one side with part of the electrode burnt away. Also the gap is a clue, if they were gapped properly in the first place. From what I see, looks like you could clean those up and reuse them. Worn edges and mushroom shaped electrodes will spark off of the sides in a larger pattern and basically weaker then a plug in good shape. A good plug with sharp edges will fire straight up.
  9. For what it is worth, if there was water getting into the cylinder while running, the plug would be a real clean light colored from the water. Also the plug would be harder to remove. I broke a plug on a 80's toyota 4 cylinder with a leaking head gasket. Which is where I read up and learned about the issue. The car ran great, I did not think it had a blown head gasket. I do not know anything about the fuzz, but it appears to be burning cleaner then the others and makes me wonder.
  10. Hope you show some photos of what you find in the pan. I have heard some real horror stories of the amount of sludge. I guess when they sleep for many years the sludge and oil on the bottom of the pan gets nasty. I also need to pull the pan on mine, been sitting for 39 years.
  11. I have driven some junk, had a old 77 toyota pickup with a 20R motor. The chain stretched so far, the timing changed depending if you had your foot on the gas or coasting down a hill. The chain was so loose it was slapping the side of the timing chain case and nearing breaking through. I put a new chain in it and it ran great again. Then I had a 72 cj5 with a 304 headers carter 4 barrel, I romped on it going through a mud hole and timing chain did jump on that one, crank it over and carburetor shot gas on the windshield with the hood removed. But I do not think it is goin
  12. I am starting mine with first picking out the rub rail, the metal edging around the bed. I also want to use 2"x6" planking, . I have a particular rub rail in mind, was very common on older trucks, so the hight of the rail plus the thickness of the flooring will determine the required hight of the cross bones. I know many beds are 3/4" hard woods. I dont want to dump a lot of money in the flooring, I can get 2x6 pine that will be cheap and plenty strong enough and look good. The photo of the dodge truck rub rails/side rails is very plain and what I want, stake pockets, a few hoo
  13. The 6 volt starter will work fine in 12 volts, you really do not want to stand on the starter and crank it for long periods. We have a old international truck that got converted 15 years ago and is still running the original 6 volt starter. When your starter is worn out and needs replaced/rebuilt, then would switch to 12 volt. And napa or any good parts store should be able to help. The mopar flathead sixes were made up into the 60's and even 70's on some industrial applications. And I would imagine the starters will interchange. I imagine you may need to go to a pus
  14. Check the photo for engine id location and give us that number. Also you can check this page for more info. http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php
  15. Works for me, you just need to convince your wife. Honey, we need that Hemi so it will load the springs, will ride like a cadilac on those long drives.
  16. I would agree with you, most off the shelf ss is incredibly soft. But if you shop and order correct grade from a honest supplier, It is available and a bit costly. But a very good alternative in some situations.
  17. I have used both, but prefer mapp for copper plumbing. Interesting little piece here I just read about using the proper torch with mapp for higher heat. Will have to try it out .MAP-Pro gas burns at a temperature of 3,730 degrees Fahrenheit, while propane burns at 3,600 F. Because it heats copper faster and to a higher temperature, MAP-Pro gas is a superior alternative to propane for soldering. If you opt to use it, the manufacturer recommends using a specially designed torch. Adding oxygen to the flame raises the temperature to 5,200 F, which is suitable for cutting and weldi
  18. Thanks for the tips Andy. Have not tackled it yet, but is coming in near future and wondering how I will tackle the issue. I think you are correct, will be taking each one individually and doing what is needed. Heat will be helpful am sure. And the parts washer. Wonder if removing the zirks and injecting the solvent will harm the rubber boots? Just a 5 gallon bucket from Harbor freight, not sure what instructions would say. I recently did wheel bearings on a 1947 trailer, the old grease was like pitch from a pine tree. Gooie, sticky and disgusting, but cleaned off easy enough wi
  19. What about old grease, any way to clean it out? at the stage of working on my front end, just using a grease gun and adding new grease on top of 50 year old grease does not sound good. Same time, do not want to throw away all the original tie rod ends that are in good condition, because of old grease. Just wonder if any tips and tricks to cleaning the old pieces and re using them, or simply replace with modern china junk?
  20. Wish you a speedy recovery, just keep a photo of your 218 close and will motivate you.
  21. Sure seems like it would be the american version. Was after 1938 that Canada went to the 25" Canadian motors, so they used American up until then? So just thinking out loud, you have the American 23.5" engine, would use the same clutch/transmission. I guess the only way to be 100% sure, would be to take the old one out first, before ordering new. Sure someone else will have a better answer.
  22. While browsing the classifieds today I saw this cool little under dash mount. No idea if it could be made to work. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/50s-mopar-cool-air-dodge-chrysler-plymouth-desoto.1073854/
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