Los_Control

The only difference is, you kinda need to use the #6 piston to get it on TDC. Once you determine compression stroke on#6 to determine TDC .... Why bother to roll the engine over again to get #1 on TDC for #1? You can be very accurate getting #6 on TDC compression stroke because the timing plug is on #6 cyl directly over the piston. At this point #1 is also TDC on exhaust stroke. Simply rolling the engine over 1 more time to bring #6 up on exhaust stroke makes #1 on compression stroke. To me this is just a extra step and I am lazy and not worth my time. Now if I had the engine disassembled, was installing the timing gears, oil pump, had the head off .... I would bring #1 up on TDC and work from there. Since the timing plug over the piston is located on #6 cyl. We have to determine if #6 is on exhaust or compression to know what #1 is doing .... why not just use #6? Honestly makes no difference ... if #6 is TDC compression stroke then #1 is TDC exhaust. Just another step to bring #1 up on compression and I am lazy. #6 works just as well as #1 for installing the plug wires.

Again it is as simple as checking #6 cyl for TDC on compression stroke. Thats where you set your distributor wires. As far as the oil pump goes, when you disassemble your engine & rebuild it ... just do a better job putting it together. I am only saying #6 is the easiest cyl to get to TDC because of the timing plug above the piston. Of course it may not be your issue. But it has a high chance of being it .... you need to eliminate this chance. Seriously these engines do not care where the oil pump is installed. Just up to the user to install plug wires in correct position. While I personally would like to install the oil pump correctly and install the wires as per the manual ... Not going to make your engine run any better or worse by doing so. So again, use the timing plug, figure out where the compression stroke is and tdc on #6 cyl ... set your wires ... then decide what you want after it is running.

This all sounds great ... one thing forgotten on these engines is the oil pump. If the previous mechanic did not properly set up the engine for TDC while installing the oil pump ... Then the manual gets thrown out the window. It is also easy for a competent mechanic to install the oil pump one tooth off. Just like installing a distributor one tooth off. I am saying that if the oil pump is installed not exactly perfect from the manual ... all the manual directions goes out the window. This is a common issue with older rebuild engines etc ... Pull the timing plug on #6 cyl, lay a tiny piece of toilette paper over it. Rotate the engine by hand. When the paper is disturbed it is coming up on compression stroke. Use A wire to determine the exact TDC of the #6 piston. ..... This is where the piston will fire from spark. Then check the rotor & distributor cap to insure that the rotor is pointing at #6 plug wire on the cap. Just saying the manual says #1 should be at 7 0'clock position & mine is at 6 0'clock. Mechanic tried but missed it by one tooth. If the mechanic did not care, the #1 position can be anywhere on the distributor cap. 1. #1 to TDC. sounds good ... does not prove the spark is going to the right cyl at the right time.

From what I read, everything does sound ok ... compression is not the best but good enough to start wet or dry numbers. I am jumping on the bus with the others that are claiming timing. This bit me the first start on my engine also. If the engine has ever been apart in the past, depends on if the previous mechanic followed procedure to where your timing is. My point is, If you follow the manual exactly when installing the oil pump. #1 is at the 7 o'clock position on the distributor. It is just as easy to get the oil pump 1 tooth off as installing a distributor 1 tooth off. My #1 wire is at 6 O'clock. So if the oil pump is installed 1 tooth off, the slotted distributor is now off and need to adjust the wires on the cap to correct. Suppose the mechanic did not care, just installed the oil pump willy nilly. Now the #1 wire could be any location on the distributor cap. Thats fine it will run with no issues this way. You really can't skimp on this step. I pull the timing plug on #6 cyl, make sure it is not plugged with carbon. Lay a tiny piece of toilette paper over it. Turn engine over by hand, when the paper moves ... the piston is coming up on compression stroke. Take a long wire inserted in the timing plug & rotate engine to determine where piston is at TDC. Now look at your rotor in distributor, match the #6 plug wire on the cap to match the rotor. Install all the wires starting from #6 instead of #1. You literally throw everything the manual says out the window. YOU determine where #6 is on compression stroke and set your wires from there.

pretty sure @ggdad1951 got this one I personally do not have the air compressor volume to run a sand blaster, the rust converters I have used seem to work pretty good and happy to use them again ... after only a 1 or 2 year test, after applied. The molasses does work good. I used a 20 gallon container and soaked my heater & a few other parts. I believe the ratio is 1 gal molasses to 9 gallon water. The heater doors were rusted closed and would bend the metal before they would move. A few days in molasses and operated just like new. Wash dry & paint. Will only remove rust though, will not touch any paint left on the metal.

I will just toss out a few ideas ... Dot 5 brake fluid was never around on these old cars and made to work with newer products. I would only assume the Dot5 is not compatible with your rubber cups and made them swell so much they will not move, or I doubt it caused corrosion on your pistons to stop them from moving.. So just pretending I am on a game show, I say brake fluid for 5 points Alex! Simply expanded the rubber cups you have and they no longer can slide in the wheel cylinders or master cylinder .... Hope I am wrong.

NOOOOO you take that back, say it isn't so! Been getting the garden ready with cool weather crops but still have several pepper plants started indoors waiting to go in the ground.

I can only attest to being a idiot as a young adult and no guarantee I have changed much. I had a 1963 chebby truck I thought I wanted to paint. I started to use aircraft paint stripper on it. It was very aggressive. I soon found I had 5 layers of paint on the truck & much bondo. Sadly I started around the fuel fill neck & it ate the rubber grommet for the fuel filler through the cab. What I quickly learned was you do not want to strip a complete vehicle with it. While it would do the job, just simply was so aggressive it was a project to do just a small area and not let it get away from you. When it dried you had just a solid mess of curled up paint and not easy to remove. I also tried it again about 10 years later when I was 30 years old. I had a house built in the '30's and wanted to rebuild the original front screen door. Again it loosened the paint but I did not remove it fast enough and made a mess. Seriously I was scraping paint off the wood and mid stroke after about 15 min it dried up and a solid mess. I simply have no reason to use it today ... I am sure it has places to be used and works perfect. I have used safe acids to remove rust on a headlight switch, was a pot metal part that disappeared in a few min because of the acid. Was a member here that helped me replace it. .... I have no clue if aircraft stripper will harm pot metal ... I will never use it and never know. I know that the paint thinner, lacquer thinner will eventually soak into the existing paint. Making the top layer of the paint soft. Then maybe a tooth pick or a small brass brush to work the soft paint. Let it soak some more and scrape some more ... eventually you will remove all the paint with no damage and then wipe it clean with paint thinner before repainting.

I am thinking what @ggdad1951means by a solvent soak ... possibly some paint thinner. Would be pretty mild and not hurt the metal. While letting it soak for a few hours or even overnight would loosen the paint and eventually break it down to where you can remove it. Will not be fast but will be harmless.

IMHO, you are doing great. I would actually try to make the old ones work first. If they actually work fine that is awesome. Now you have a spare set of new shoes sitting on the shelf for when you need them. I did the same thing, my original carb needed rebuilt. I was able to buy a new one from rockauto ... so I did. Then I ordered a rebuild kit for the original carb ... rebuilt it, soaked it in oil then wrapped it up and set it on the shelf. I searched last year and did not see that same carb available to purchase. ... Glad I have a spare. Same thing with your brake shoes ... you can get them now, but next year maybe not. For this reason alone, I would try to clean them up & use them, then have a spare set on the shelf ... If they are junk then toss them.

Years ago my employer had a 2 seater Cessna. So did his friend. They were talking one day and both getting ready to fly to Mexico for a two week hunting vacation. They were deciding which plane they would fly down in. Chuck was complaining his oil pressure was a little low and he may need to do some work on it but it was running ok. Bill said yeah, He had the same problem. Stuck a penny inside the oil pump to shim it and working ok now. So they took Bill's plane . Just thinking, just because it is aircraft, does not mean it is correct. .... Was even more hilarious to listen to his Wife explain how Bill was going to the DR to get a penicillin shot when he returned before sleeping in the bedroom. I suppose pilots are resourceful people.

Depends how long winter is? Couple years ago I did a quick panic stop on my chebby. The R rear wheel cyl started leaking. Wife had her car and was out of state visiting the daughter. I wanted to wait a few weeks til she returned to take it apart. Have a spare vehicle to go and buy parts. Just saying I let it go a couple months before fixing it. I rarely drove the truck and just added a bit of fluid as needed. So when I did finally take it apart, I was surprised to see the shoes while wet were close to new, the drums were fine .... just the wheel cyl that looked like new failed. I replaced the wheel cyl, used brake clean on the shoes and a few years later still working fine. Brake clean really did a good job and they looked nice when finished. What will happen if the shoe is contaminated with oil, they will grab and possibly squeak or make noise as they are making contact with the drum. Because it is on the front you will notice it as it will grab and pull to one side or the other. You will not like driving it and replace it. But if they clean up and work fine, go ahead and use them? At least it is the front and easy to get to.

Just to toss it out there .... possibly the ratchet crimps will work on these just as well as insulated ends?

Well you have a big advantage over me, you have some professional experience with electronics. .... Only thing close I have is house wiring and they are different. I was searching for a photo to display the non insulated connectors for visual effect. I found this outfit here .... know nothing about them prices seemed reasonable and the connectors look like decent quality. They stock a lot of inventory. Might be worth a look. https://www.sherco-auto.com/non-insulated-bullet-connectors.html I get it though. Last year had a no crank issue on my chebby truck. Most likely a bad solenoid. To work on it had to jack it up and get it on jack stands, remove the starter. Then I found I had some crispy heat soaked wires to trigger the solenoid. Most likely was the only problem. I replaced a foot or so of the wires, I then used 3 layers of heat shrink to cover it up. Using different sizes. Then put a new plastic wire loom cover over it. For additional heat protection. Also replaced the battery cable & starter while I had them out. Taking no chances. Just thinking to double up the shrink tube may be a viable option in areas it is needed?

I also do the same, although would prefer a good quality non insulated connector that does not have the plastic covering on them. Then tin, crimp, solder the connection and cover with shrink tubing. I thought this would be a first quality connection. I also suggested this method to a similar question on another forum. Oh boy did I get put in my place ... was a dog pile and I was on the bottom ??? It was pointed out to me that automotive wire is stranded & flexible for a reason, if you solder it you lose the flexibility. All of our air planes, space shuttle automobiles are in a high stress situation and the wiring is crimped not soldered. yada yada yada ... With that said, yeah I think tinning/soldering is the way I will build my harness. I do not expect to be passing the sound barrier in my pilothouse. I can visually see the connection, tug on it, I know it is good, I feel it will last as long as I am going to be around. This is truly the proper way, sometimes is not too easy and almost need 3 hands. Just standard crimps can be tough. You line up the terminal & wire then get crimps in place .... if one of them move you will have a faulty crimp. With the insulation covering it you will not see it. The right tool the ratcheting crimps, is even more difficult to hold everything while pumping the handle. I simply do not trust myself, If building a wire harness from scratch, I have 50-75 terminals to crimp. I would bet at least 5 will fail in 2 years. And most likely the toughest ones to get to

On my strips they are flat to sit on the wood, while the edge you would put a kerf cut in the wood for it to sit in. Same as the shovel strips. Also they are spot welded. So as @ggdad1951 says, depends on what your replacement strips look like as to how you will install them. For example my replacement strips look just like the metal bed rails I found laying next to the dumpster and followed me home. They are flat on both sides and will sit on top the wood.

Tony released a video yesterday about engine break in. Explained what parts you are breaking in, why you need zdp break in oil, how long etc... I am sure there are better videos out there. 1 thing I took away from it (after watching many other past videos) Once you run it the initial 20 mins or whatever you choose .... Drain the break in oil out of it immediately. New oil filter etc before you start it a 2nd time. Another thing he stresses, It is critical to have the engine ready to fire & run on a couple revolutions. For example, if you have the distributor 180 out, or the plug wires installed incorrectly .... you crank on it for 1/2 hour trying to get it to fire. All the assembly lube is wiped off and now the parts are running dry. You just want to double check your work then go ahead and check it again. @sniper is correct about having a quick way to shut it down. I have some lengths of jumper wires hanging above the bench with alligator clips on them. They would work good for running power to your coil, if needed a tug would pull it off shutting down the engine. But they also are very handy for other testing purposes when you rewire the car.

Actually happy to hear some are getting into the 20+ mpg range. Now it depends on what gearing and if a overdrive is in play. I would hope for about 16 with a 1/2 ton truck and 4.1 gears ... I still think is better then some modern vehicles. As a kid I had a 1969 mustang with basically a stock 351 with headers/4bbl I could get 22mpg out of it. I also had a 1971 dodge Ex-police car ... big ol 4 door, it got 25mpg. But a few years later with all the smog & emissions added mpg went in the ditch. In comparison, I had a 1987 Ford 1 ton work van with a 351/C6/4.1 gears. It got 8mpg empty, loaded, in town, freeway. Nothing you could do would change it ... I drove it over 10 years. My current 1991 chebby 1/2 ton 350/5spd/3.5 gears gets 16 mpg. Freeway. Just thinking the old flathead would get better mpg with the same trans & gears as the chebby.

I think I would try Uncle Tony's trick for vapor lock if I run into the issue. Simply adding a fuel filter that has a 2nd outlet to return to the tank, has a flow resistor built into it. This would also mean modifying the tank to add a port for the fuel to return through. Several ways to do this. My Tank has never been installed or gas in it. I have a extra plate on it for a electric fuel pump if wanted. Would be very simple to add it there before installing the tank. The whole idea is the fuel is always moving so never sits in the line long enough to boil over. Since it is already cooler, seems it wont boil over when shutting the engine off. The restriction built into the filter return line will keep you from starving for fuel. iirc some jeeps used the filters & available at any parts store. Some put the restriction at the tank some at the filter, you need the restriction so important which filter you buy. IMHO, will look sorta kinda tacky. Will need to add the filter after the fuel pump, they accept rubber fuel lines. Simple easy fix though. I wonder if a guy was handy, might take his steel or nickel/copper fuel line and just add a T before the carburetor And run metal lines back to the tank. You can blank off whatever fitting going into the tank, just drill a small hole for flow restriction. I wonder if the flow restrictors used on brake lines is fuel friendly? Would look more period correct this way at least.

I totally understand. I just was pointing out that a guy asked a simple question. Nobody actually has a answer with actual mpg. Not one person has stepped up and said I get 10 ... or 16 ... or 20 mpg from my flathead 6. Nobody cares ... I am just pointing out that fact ... while it got switched to metric & liters etc ... nobody posted their actual mileage. That was the original question.

Not important, just noticing not one person yet reported there actual gas mileage. My 1987 Ford work van I got 8 mpg, I just could not avoid it and drove it for 10 years. When I retired I now have a 1991 chevy with a 5spd manual trans, I get 16 mpg I doubled my mpg. Seems nobody with a old mopar has checked their actual mileage.

Just a thought, I was reading a thread recently about paint. A couple of the guys own their own paint & body shops. One spoke about fish eye, he claimed whenever his air compressor was due for a oil change, would cause fish eye. I imagine it could be plausible, Just enough miles on the old but good air compressor, oil starts to break down ???? I figure to change the oil in my compressor, as I plan on spraying some paint soon. And it is probably past due anyways.

I really would not want to work on it in the van ... In my mind it would need to go to a machine shop before I would ever trust it again. Here is a cold start after sitting about 5-6 hours, is way to noisy and no power ... 48 seconds in you hear a rod and only gets worse from there. In the video you can see how smooth it is running ... why am certain the computer and sensors are correct ... it is what it is. A better mechanic might have flushed the engine out with diesel fuel before installing it ... I may do that with the next one.

Well I am done working on it for now .... This new/used motor is junk. This time I think is no fault of my non existent mechanic skills. I could be wrong though ??? The motor really ran well, over 3 days I put 25 miles on it around town just short shake down runs. The only thing left to do was take it on the freeway for a good road ripper. Started out and as usual, it wants to cruise 80 mph coolant temp & oil is fine. After about 15 miles it lost power and ended up on the side of the road ... made it off the freeway. Towed it home yesterday. Seems to have one or more rods knocking and low on power. The oil idiot light is now come and go. My best guess at what happened here. The motor sat for 10 years in a shed at the wrecking yard. Here in West Texas our dirt is more like sand. The wind blows and the sand gets everywhere ... unless you have grass to hold it in place. A wrecking yard does not usually have grass. I noticed the coolant after I filled it was a little like mud. I planned to flush it out good with warmer weather. I noticed the new oil was black, but expect that from a engine sitting several years. I am guessing the oil is also full of sand. It wore the bearings down. Why there was no sign of anything wrong while driving. Til it was too late. Live & learn. I paid $200 + fluids, gaskets some minor other items ... & labor to install it. I gambled & lost on a $200 motor. These motors were made for many years and available from $200-$600 There is a rebuilt one for $2k They are simple enough that even I can change one. I parked it on the side of the garage today and put the pilothouse in the work area, ordered the rest of the brake lines I need. Getting ready to pull the bed and paint it along with the frame and finish the brakes ... Get a new bottle of gas for the welder. Just tired of working on the caravan and time to work on the truck.

I get it ... I am the odd ball in the conversation. Just saying I have seen bad problems in the past but that was 35 years ago. At the gas station we had the big wammer jammer battery charger that put my employer in the emergency room. Chances are we can use these large chargers and nothing bad will ever happen. .... But it can. I used them in a shop. We also can use a 6 amp charger and it does the charge & simply no worries about it blowing up in your face. @keithb7just enjoy it. I specifically want a smaller charger. For past experiences.