Tom Skinner

OK, I will send it out. I'm bushed, this Starter has eaten my Lunch. Thanks to Dodgeb4you and Knuckleharley, you have been a big help. The Commutator didn't appear to have any insulating material on it, so maybe the some one has been sassing around with it before me. Of course I am not much better all I could do was try, and in so doing I think it would have been cheaper to just buy a restored one to begin with. Oh well, thats pretty much how it goes. Thanks again. I know a guy out west that can fix this abortion. L.O.L. Tom

The Commutator Looked Great, as did the Field Coils. I can't figure this one out. But it must be Grounding out otherwise why the spark show?

I did not wire wheel anything

Just the Jumper Wire the Bushings, the Brushes, and the Brush Springs. Not the Field Coils, They wouldn't come out - even beating them with a 6 pound Hammer on a Impact screw Driver on my Concrete Driveway with my Son holding it - (He is a Marine - strong) we couldn't remove the Coils.

OK, now I am getting somewhere. The Sparks fly when I remove the Strap and hook the Neg to the nut and the Positive to the Pinion Housing. Something is wrong in the Starter itself?

10-4 going to do now

Dodgeb4ya, With Negative Cable going to Inner Stud with Strap to directly power the Starter - for the Starter portion only. Sparks flew everywhere. Note had I left it this way I would have shorted my Battery. I re-examined my soldered Brushes. everything is in order inside the starter. I tried the other post again as before nothing. No sound out of the Selenoid with a host of hook ups.

I will try

Selenoid - No Click Sound

I did hook Neg (-) Battery Cable to the Large Stud opposite the Inner Strap Stud..... and The Positive (+) Cable to the Case Ground. Nothing. How do I directly power the starter motor by passing the selenoid?

Results of the Knuckleharley Test - nothing. I am dumbfounded. I have read the Points have to be adjusted within Limits in the Selenoid. But I do not see why it would not be spinning other than the Selenoid is not working. Crap. I now have about $200 in this project with zero results. Any Ideas from the Pros? I have a friend here in NC that may have a spare Selenoid, I will call him tonight. Feeling like Mr. Bad Wrench right about right now. Tom

It will work, I got good Soldered joints etc. It was clean inside and the Selenoid Was also Clean inside, No rust or burnt points etc. I will tell you'all the results tomorrow.

I also need Tag Pins to reinstall the Tag. The only place I can find them is on Ebay. $4.95 for 2. Not really my cup of Tea pricewise. This is the infamous MAX4050 Starter.

Well I have it back together. The rebuilt Kit Andy B. Sells has Bronze Bushings, Washers Leather Washer, Brushes (4), Brush Spring Clips (4), and thats all I can recall. I even Painted the Tag Red with a Sable Brush, then waited 5 minutes and took Thinner on a Rag and Burnished the Raised Parts to bring back the silver Letters etc. I have yet to remove my 6 Volt Battery and Test it, using the Knuckleharley method.

I have the starter apart. I also have a Andy B. rebuild kit for it.

Thanks! I will try the Knuckleharley test as soon as I finish cleaning the Starter up and change out the Brushes. I'll get back with the results. I am not going to do much today. Happy Father's Day to all. Tom

Gents, I recently purchased a Starter for my 1948 Chrysler Royal. It is a Auto-Lite MAX4050 6 Volt (correct for the car) and came with the Selenoid. I was fortunate enough to get a clean one in good shape. I can see how to change out the brushes and have read "how to do them" in my Service Manual. I live in Hunterville N.C.. My question is: What kind of equipment is required to Bench Test a Starter? The several places I have called in nearby Charlotte N.C. do not do it anymore. When I first moved here back in 1979 with my first 1948 Chrysler Royal two places did them, but unfortunately the old timers that did them are gone now, and so is one of the shops. The remaining one is run by the grandchildren that have no knowledge of how to bench test a Starter. I am also ignorant as to how to do this. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I have already searched the Technical and Resources Sections of our Site. Beyond googling a place to send it to, I would rather carry it to someone to watch them do it and learn, or learn how to do it myself with any necessary equipment I may need to build or purchase. Let's face it these skills are going away, and we need to "carry them on" to the next generation. Any help is appreciated. Thank you in advance. Tom

Take Pictures, pay attention, stay sober. Piece of cake.

Greg G, Yes I had to add a socket to each taillight housing and splice into the brake light wire to accomplish this. I originally only had a center brake light with tail lights for directional use only. The Tail Light sockets are 2 pole with 1158 bulbs, the brake light is single pole with 1129 bulbs - all 16 gauge wiring. Tom

Thats my wife behind the wheel hitting the brakes L.O.L.

Pictures before and after, Sunshine bright but you see the lights are on at both Tail Lights and the Trunk Light

Update to all: I bought my Brake Light Sockets from mr.fifty (ebay) type B. The Wires Sockets (B) and Bulbs (1129) are @ $13.90 w S&H. I did have to buy a $10 1" Metal Hole Saw to install into my Tail Light Housings. They look great and I hope they provide some safety. I had to make a couple pigtails (two to one) to plug it up. Thanks to everyone on the forum! Tom

I pay $2.45/US Gallon for Ethanol Free Regular 87 Octane 7 miles from my house. Do not let anyone tell you otherwise. Or Dump about 8-10 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil in your gas each time you fill up. It keeps the gas from boiling over in hot weather. Sort of ameliorates the crap ethanol in the gas. 1952b3b23 if anyone ever offered me gas for $75 for 5 gallons of pure gas, I would cold cock knock them into next week. What kind of Creeps are out there for God's sake. Tom Skinner Huntersville, North Carolina

I got mine at Bernbaum. About $40 a pop (all 4 @$168 w S&H). Damn good Tie Rod Ends. Chris is a big help. They are high Quality Tie Rod Ends. I also got Pitman Arm Bushings and Took the Right Splash Shield off the Bottom of the Engine and Clened everything up and Painted it. Then I went to Good Year and got a Front End Alignment. She Rides like a New Car now. Tom

Thanks for getting back to us Meezy. Don is Da Bomb. When the best is around they call him better. When better is around they call him Mo Better.