Tom Skinner

Vintage Power Wagon sells a Service Manual for the Chrysler Industrial Engine. I have a copy, and the Manifold Heat Control Valve is clearly shown on Page 62. In addition to that the Imperial Website has a technical/service tab that shows various Service Booklets on line on how to adjust a Sisson Choke. Actually using the Imperial Website will show you all of what you need to know without spending a dime (except for a few pages of paper copies you may require) for your shop use. Tom

Andy Bernbaum is also very fair. They have sold me quality parts for years. I guess because I live close to Steele Rubber (30 minutes) away I received great service from them? I cannot speak for Andy Dodge, we all experience business dealings differently. One thing I did notice about Steele Rubber was when they sold me Front and Rear Windshield rubber they never mentioned I needed sealer or cleaner, so I had to drive back over there and buy some. I was under the impression that a good sales person would have pointed that out to me the first time, or at least asked me if I needed sealer or cleaner with my order. So yes, in a way the Counter Person seemed a little like they just wanted to ring me up and be done with the transaction, instead of asking me about what I actually was trying to accomplish. Other than that I had no problem. Incidently my Cowl Vent Rubber Didn't fit either, and I had to just buy a long piece not a form fitted piece but just a long straight piece to fit on myself. So I will admit they probably had a bad batch of Vent Rubbers for a time??? Andy B. is also (I have seen here) very good with Rubber Trims. Tom

Steele Rubber, Denver, North Carolina. They are however, proud of their Rubber Moldings. But they all fit like a glove. I did all my Rubber Moldings there, Front and Rear Vent Rubbers, also front and Rear Windshields, Tail Light Housings, Brake Light Housing, etc. Tom

5 years ago when I was 55 and still strong as an Ox, I took a piece of Flat Metal 6" x 48" 16 Gauge, and used spray adhesive to glue 80 Grit Sandpaper to it (Belt sander size paper) from Lowe's. I also prepared the other side with 120 Grit. Then on the flatest part of my garage floor I rubbed the two Manifolds bolted together their Flanges against it in a continous firm fashion until all flange surfaces became flat and true. The sand paper on the other side acted like a bench hog. It went fast, maybe 20 - 25 strokes on each Grit. They were ready to install, Flat and True to each other and looked professionally machined. Using New Manifold Gaskets with High Heat Gasket Sealer they snugged back on true and have never leaked since. In my humble opinion sending manifolds out to be machined is not necessary when using my method described above. Metal Stud Supply Houses have the Flat Metal, and will sell you a 4' piece cheap. I think I had @$10 in my shade Tree method. You need strong arms and wrists to hold the Manifolds Flat and True as you Rub them across the home made plane. The weight of the Manifolds helped keep them true, care must be in not letting tem rock back or forth in either direction. Tom

Static time it. Engine doesn't need to run to time it. Get #1 Cylinder to T.D.C. (Top Dead Center) Take Coil Wire from Distributer and hold next to a ground about 1/4" away from say a bare spot on the block. Loosen Distributor, turn ignition key on. turn distributor back and forth until a spark jumps at the ground. Lock Distributor bolt. Now you are Static Timed. Start the Engine and hook up a Timing Light and dynamic Time it as desired. Tom

I installed the Tie Rods in with the Pitman Arm Bushings and got Goodyear to do an alignment this morning. Their Computer/system had the specs for a 1948 Windsor which is essentially the same as my 1948 Chrysler Royal. A very competent mechanic named Shane (about 40 years old) had it sorted out inside of 45 minutes. I let him use my manual anyhow and also my C-611 Camber wrench I had previously got on ebay. It rides real straight and smooth now. My old Tie Rods were all loose and gritty and beyond saving so when I got home from Goodyear I tossed them. Tie Rods @ $165, Pitman Bushings $32, alignment $89. Worth every penny. Of course I had my 8 hours labor in there cleaning and painting everything up as well. All's well that ends well. Thank you for all the great advice. Tom

10-4 Tighten to pin goes in. Thanks! Tom

I got my Pickle Fork at Advance Auto for $9.67 Tax included. What a deal. Its a heavy metal Fork over a foot long.

Got em off. It took a Pickle Forking and I banged them right off with my Big Hammer. L.O.L. (Now don't think dirty) Anyways of course cleaning everything is the biggie now. I got new Tie Rods from Andy Bernbaums (Quality Tie Rods). I also stopped by a Front End Joint to ask the Mechanic what to tighten the Castle Nuts to. He said about 35 - 40LBS then back off enough to put the Cotter Pin in. I also ordered some Pitman Arm Bushings (4) mine look a little dicey. Of course I removed the famous Left Side Lower Engine Splash Shield to clean up to Paint. Thanks for all the great advice. I am a newbie to front ends. Tom

Thanks Chazz, I guess a Wooden Mallet doesn't really get it. I'll pull out a 2lbs Hammer once I buy my pickle fork. Tom

Gents, I just removed the Cotter Pins on my Tie Rod ends, The Castle Nuts, turned them around and ran them up flush, and took a wooden mallet andtried beating them loose. No go. Any suggestions? A buddy has suggested a pickle fork. I guess they sell them at Advance Auto? Tom

L.O.L. me too. And don't forget to stand up slowly after getting off the floor, or you can get dizzy. No drinking (adult beverages) before laying under cars is my rule.

I want to say adjust the Rod shorter. In increments of about 1/16" to an 1/8" at a time, until it engages properly. If no improvement then its is probably a linkage problem (perhaps bent fork or worn pivot bushings) or worn clutch facing. Usually on these old Fluid Drives you would experience what is known as Clutch judder before they are worn out. Judder is a bucking/slippage upon take off, then between 14-20mph then again at say 30-40mph. No Judder, I would inspect all components for wear or being bent first. Good Luck! Clutch work is a real rascal for us guys over 60. Tom

RayLLoyd, Great Video. I wish I saw this two weeks ago when I did my front windows. L.O.L. I just did my two front windows and Vents. I happened upon the Adjusting nut and corrected my driver's side window to go up straight to receive the Vent Window properly. I wish he showed the snap clips, and then the snap clip installization portion of (installing the wheels on the regulator arms) a little clearer for the novices/guys that have never been inside a front door before. It took me 7 hours to do my drivers side. Then on the passengers side just an hour and a half. As you can tell I went super slow as not to break anything. One thing I did to prevent scratching the glass was to put Masking Tape on it (both sides) before installing, then removed it once I knew I couldn't scratch the glass up during the install. Thanks again. Geat Video. Tom

Tom B., Not trying to get you to spend money, however, F.Y.I. on ebay (1948 Chrysler Governor, Kickdown, and Selenoid) Tranny parts for sale in one lot. I personally think it is probably your wire harness or just dirty or low Tranny Oil and Filter, or dirty Governor points. But for you guys that like extra parts. Your Choice. Good Luck, it is probably a simple wire fix. Tom S.

Tom B, All good things to do. also check to see if your RPM's are down (say 450-475) low enough to allow for the Upshift. I assume your not Upshifting. also check the Fuse in the Corner of your Transmission Relay Box and be sure it is not burnt. Tom S.

Have you a Vacuum Advance on your Distributor? Take it off the Distributor and check the diaphram for leaks. It shouldn't leak, if it does replace it. It can be easily checked by blowing and sucking air into it, when this is done you will know immediately if it works. Tom

By the way I get around 17 - 18m.p.g. a gallon on the highway. Pretty darned good I would say. Tom

I really don't want to hijack this thread, but here goes, Chrysler owners know Chrysler products like gas. Gas is Cheap by today's standards. Gas is small potatoes. Don't sweat small potatoes. There now. Drive your big Chrysler's and enjoy them. I really don't give a fat babies behind what my gas mileage is. I hope and pray for you, that you really don't either. With the inflated prices of everything else in parts for our cars, insurance, etc. does $2.10 a gallon gas scare you? I thought not. Tom

Ditto. Check plugs, if they are black or sooty, then they are probably fouled. Replace plugs, and perhaps re-adjust choke. Usually a factory Carb setting is a good place to start. Screw Idle mixture screw all the way in (gently) then back it out about 3/4 of a turn. Lean up your fuel mixture using a vacumn gauge. Obtain your highest Vacumn (steady hand) and see how she runs then. Sometimes a Vacumn Advance that leaks can cause some stumble, but that is usually when your pulling away from a full stop. Try starting it every day for a week. Warm it all the way up. Using these old Mopars everyday can improve their performance. Drive it more. Tom

I wound up replacing the manifold with one with a working heat riser, and all of those issues went away. Personally, I figure the original engineers built it that way for a reason, and the best option is to return it to original. Once you start monkeying around with the factory specs you'll open yourself up to a whole host of unanticipated issues and wind up having to use guesswork to figure it out. Just my 2 cents anyway. Bingo

I believe I read in "The Restoration Bible" by Matt Joseph, Page 100, and I quote: "Balancing is very optional in Old Engines" "The simple fact is the Radial Thrusts generated by small imbalances in most engines are minor if those engines are low speed long stroke mills. Most older Engines fit squarely into those categories." in other words your wasting your money. He also goes on to say removing to much material from Connecting Rods Ribs or Pistons can actually cause catastrophic failure. Also mentioned on page 99 - "Balancing Long Stroke Old Engines is a Fruitless gesture". Please don't blame the messenger here, but I would tend to agree with Matt, because I have rebuilt these engines before and one can instantly see that tolerances left much to be desired on old flatheads back in the day. They tolerate about as much slop as one could imagine and still run good. They ain't racing engines. Tom Skinner

I seem to remember an old Mechanic named Bob (that worked on old flatheads) starting out in the 1940s telling me (in the 1970s) Our old flatheads were good for about 60 - 75K then would need rings. Of course proper valve adjustment improved their life as well.

James, I have owned 1948 Chryslers since 1973, and never had to top off a Coupler yet. I am of the opinion if it ain't broke don't fix it. I never changed the fluid out either. But I always do see fellows stating use the ISO 22 so I mentioned it. I certainly didn't mean to ruin your Holiday with that comment. Happy Thanksgiving. Tom

Usually an Oil Soaked Clutch Judders. Especially at acceleration between 15-20 mph, and again at 30-35 mph. All m6 Transmissions that are low on 10wt will seem worse or not upshift properly (they need about 40lbs/psi) to work smooth. The Fluid Drive Coupler takes the ISO22 and should only be topped off if necessary. All m6 tranny's are dogs off the line. I would bet your Vacumn Advance is the culprit if its a dog off the line, using allot of gas, and stalling at stops. If It needs replacing you will know by taking it off the Distributor and sucking and or blowing it opened and closed, if it doesn't have Vacumn its because the diaphram is shot. Andy Bernbaum sold me a good one about a year ago. No more worries. Tom