Tom Skinner

I want to say adjust the Rod shorter. In increments of about 1/16" to an 1/8" at a time, until it engages properly. If no improvement then its is probably a linkage problem (perhaps bent fork or worn pivot bushings) or worn clutch facing. Usually on these old Fluid Drives you would experience what is known as Clutch judder before they are worn out. Judder is a bucking/slippage upon take off, then between 14-20mph then again at say 30-40mph. No Judder, I would inspect all components for wear or being bent first. Good Luck! Clutch work is a real rascal for us guys over 60. Tom

RayLLoyd, Great Video. I wish I saw this two weeks ago when I did my front windows. L.O.L. I just did my two front windows and Vents. I happened upon the Adjusting nut and corrected my driver's side window to go up straight to receive the Vent Window properly. I wish he showed the snap clips, and then the snap clip installization portion of (installing the wheels on the regulator arms) a little clearer for the novices/guys that have never been inside a front door before. It took me 7 hours to do my drivers side. Then on the passengers side just an hour and a half. As you can tell I went super slow as not to break anything. One thing I did to prevent scratching the glass was to put Masking Tape on it (both sides) before installing, then removed it once I knew I couldn't scratch the glass up during the install. Thanks again. Geat Video. Tom

Tom B., Not trying to get you to spend money, however, F.Y.I. on ebay (1948 Chrysler Governor, Kickdown, and Selenoid) Tranny parts for sale in one lot. I personally think it is probably your wire harness or just dirty or low Tranny Oil and Filter, or dirty Governor points. But for you guys that like extra parts. Your Choice. Good Luck, it is probably a simple wire fix. Tom S.

Tom B, All good things to do. also check to see if your RPM's are down (say 450-475) low enough to allow for the Upshift. I assume your not Upshifting. also check the Fuse in the Corner of your Transmission Relay Box and be sure it is not burnt. Tom S.

Have you a Vacuum Advance on your Distributor? Take it off the Distributor and check the diaphram for leaks. It shouldn't leak, if it does replace it. It can be easily checked by blowing and sucking air into it, when this is done you will know immediately if it works. Tom

By the way I get around 17 - 18m.p.g. a gallon on the highway. Pretty darned good I would say. Tom

I really don't want to hijack this thread, but here goes, Chrysler owners know Chrysler products like gas. Gas is Cheap by today's standards. Gas is small potatoes. Don't sweat small potatoes. There now. Drive your big Chrysler's and enjoy them. I really don't give a fat babies behind what my gas mileage is. I hope and pray for you, that you really don't either. With the inflated prices of everything else in parts for our cars, insurance, etc. does $2.10 a gallon gas scare you? I thought not. Tom

Ditto. Check plugs, if they are black or sooty, then they are probably fouled. Replace plugs, and perhaps re-adjust choke. Usually a factory Carb setting is a good place to start. Screw Idle mixture screw all the way in (gently) then back it out about 3/4 of a turn. Lean up your fuel mixture using a vacumn gauge. Obtain your highest Vacumn (steady hand) and see how she runs then. Sometimes a Vacumn Advance that leaks can cause some stumble, but that is usually when your pulling away from a full stop. Try starting it every day for a week. Warm it all the way up. Using these old Mopars everyday can improve their performance. Drive it more. Tom

I wound up replacing the manifold with one with a working heat riser, and all of those issues went away. Personally, I figure the original engineers built it that way for a reason, and the best option is to return it to original. Once you start monkeying around with the factory specs you'll open yourself up to a whole host of unanticipated issues and wind up having to use guesswork to figure it out. Just my 2 cents anyway. Bingo

I believe I read in "The Restoration Bible" by Matt Joseph, Page 100, and I quote: "Balancing is very optional in Old Engines" "The simple fact is the Radial Thrusts generated by small imbalances in most engines are minor if those engines are low speed long stroke mills. Most older Engines fit squarely into those categories." in other words your wasting your money. He also goes on to say removing to much material from Connecting Rods Ribs or Pistons can actually cause catastrophic failure. Also mentioned on page 99 - "Balancing Long Stroke Old Engines is a Fruitless gesture". Please don't blame the messenger here, but I would tend to agree with Matt, because I have rebuilt these engines before and one can instantly see that tolerances left much to be desired on old flatheads back in the day. They tolerate about as much slop as one could imagine and still run good. They ain't racing engines. Tom Skinner

I seem to remember an old Mechanic named Bob (that worked on old flatheads) starting out in the 1940s telling me (in the 1970s) Our old flatheads were good for about 60 - 75K then would need rings. Of course proper valve adjustment improved their life as well.

James, I have owned 1948 Chryslers since 1973, and never had to top off a Coupler yet. I am of the opinion if it ain't broke don't fix it. I never changed the fluid out either. But I always do see fellows stating use the ISO 22 so I mentioned it. I certainly didn't mean to ruin your Holiday with that comment. Happy Thanksgiving. Tom

Usually an Oil Soaked Clutch Judders. Especially at acceleration between 15-20 mph, and again at 30-35 mph. All m6 Transmissions that are low on 10wt will seem worse or not upshift properly (they need about 40lbs/psi) to work smooth. The Fluid Drive Coupler takes the ISO22 and should only be topped off if necessary. All m6 tranny's are dogs off the line. I would bet your Vacumn Advance is the culprit if its a dog off the line, using allot of gas, and stalling at stops. If It needs replacing you will know by taking it off the Distributor and sucking and or blowing it opened and closed, if it doesn't have Vacumn its because the diaphram is shot. Andy Bernbaum sold me a good one about a year ago. No more worries. Tom

Another way to test a condensor: Bump points block to low side of Dizzy Cam (Points Closed) leave key/Ignition on. Take a finger and pull points open and shut - you should see a Blue spark at point Contacts if Condensor is good. Tom

Don, Good one! L.O.L.

Rah! It was faulty electrical! I'm glad it works!

Bump Points around to Rubbing Block to low spot on cam. Leave ignition on. Now pull points opened and closed with your finger. Are you getting a blue spark at the points? If not your condenser is bad - new or not.

Dodgeb4ya and Knuckleharley are probably right. Replace those old wires and away your troubles shall be.

Wow, Have fun! What a Cake! Tom

Buy Un-ethanol gas. It costs more but doesn't boil. You also get beter gas mileage. Google the stations nearest you. You will be glad you did. Mine doesn't boil over after a hot ride - usually in the 90's here all summer - no more boil overs. Tom

I believe I read somewhere that Whitewall Tires weren't offered until the late 1940's. Maybe a Blackwall Radial would be your best "authentic" pick? Although I have seen Tire Ads supposedly in the 1930's showing colored widewalls (green, blue, red etc). Can anyone elaborate or enlighten us on this subject? Tom

I would like to see this picture in color. I'll bet it would look terrific using the period correct colors!

I thought the petcocks for these Radiators were Bib shaped? I have an extra (Solid Brass) L Shaped one. I am not trying to sell it. E-mail/message me if you like, (Your Address). I bought a it off ebay a while back, I will ship to you if you provide me your address. Bingster only. The one in the picture is a Vintage Power Wagon replacement bib (straight style). The replacements work well but piss coolant straight out - not down into a pail. Plus you can attach a hose to it to aim it into a pail, now that's pissing I tell you. L.O.L. Tom

Wow, I know one thing. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Drive it until it needs the work, then determine just what needs fixing and fix it. No one needs to part with thousands of dollars for these old buses. They run run on and on, just like the Energizer Bunny.

Gents, I know I'm probably going to get bashed for this, but here goes... Richard is primarily a GM guy. I subscribe to Classic Car, for years. Great Magazine. But carefully read Richard's Articles. Where are the Mopar's? They even feature a Rambler in their Current Issue of Classic Cars (the last one to come to my doorstep). Other than that Rambler, I haven't read anything other than GM, Caddy, Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Chevy, or Lincoln's/ Ford talk out of Richard for years. I will email him as well for Chris and Jerry's behalf, but I'm almost certain it will yield nada. Their last two Mopar features were September 2011 (Rare 60's Imperial Crowns you must own), and September 2015 (Mrs. Chrysler's Chrysler) Face it, just like the car shows here in the South, it's Chevy and Ford Day. I have had 1948 Chrysler Royals all the way back to 1973, and you just don't find people too interested in them. In fact their values keep going lower. Last April 2015 my '48 was the oldest Chrysler/Desoto/Plymouth at the Lowe's Show (Charlotte Motor Speedway) and maybe 4 or 5 people stopped by to really look at it (out of about maybe 30 - 60 thousand present) at the show. That was the show that featured Dodge as the "Pavilion" showcase. Only 2 other Dodge's were older than mine. In fact the few that stopped to look at my car were over 60 years of age. Oh well there it is. Start the bashing, "You shall know the truth, and the truth shall set you free". Look - Like what you want - don't let others determine your taste, however, Mopars are akin to collecting Large Cents, instead of Silver Dollars, very few people seek them out at shows as well. Unless maybe your in Michigan, Pennsylvania, or a W.P.C. Meet. Its OK I'm not sensitive .... bash away. L.O.L. I too wish Classic Car would feature more of our stuff. Tom