Tom Skinner
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Everything posted by Tom Skinner
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eBay item number: Ebay # 122581485570
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Roberts or Bernbaums has great Laquer covered cloth wire sets at good prices.
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I found a picture of the proper condenser hook up to the Generator on ebay, but could not copy it, and save it to share. My 1948 Chrysler Manual doesn't have a picture, or I would share it. I just thought it would be nice to see a picture of it for the new guys to learn something.
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Greg, That is the solution. Do you have a picture of the Condenser on the Generator so we can see how it is attached? Thank you in advance. Tom
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Anytime going through the entire brake system is a sound practice. Also check all wiring possible as therein may be the solution. A shorted wire between the switch and brake lights may or may not be the culprit.
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Do you have the Service Manual? The Stops have to be set right/properly. This is at the place where the brake pedals and Clutch pedals are set. Pay attention to the Minor Brake Shoe settings as well. Use your manual!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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I like the Yellow, Green, Beige, and the Blue. I was just thinking I better go with the Stock.
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Rich, My 1948 has it under the driver's floor as well. It sounds like the same set up from 1937 - 1949, and maybe even later. Tom
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Bench Seat Rear Front removal: Take the Philips head screw(s) out Lift out the seat Rear upward. Maybe its the same for the split seat??
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Discontinued the loaning of my Miller Tools
Tom Skinner replied to desoto1939's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Rich, I am sorry this happened. Please update us on the repaired Tool. Every, yes every time in my life that I lent tools out, except once - maybe - I had to finally go ask for them back. Sometimes never to even get them back. This brings to mind, as well as the Shakespeare saying: "No good deed goes unpunished". Well here's hoping you get it fixed and feel better about the whole thing after all. You are a good fellow to have endured for so long, and I hope one goonie bird doesn't ruin your outlook on life or our group here. Good Luck. Tom -
Excellent! Enjoy your ride. That's what makes owning these cars the real deal! Tom
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Yeah, I used H. Duty Cables and the sparks kept coming. Something is monked up in there, and obviously I don't know what the HE - double L I am doing. I am going to ship it out West there is a Cracker Jack Starter - Generator Place I know of that will make quick work of this Starter. Thanks again I guess I was in over my head with this one. At least I got my mind right now - (Cool Hand Luke). L.O.L.
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OK, I will send it out. I'm bushed, this Starter has eaten my Lunch. Thanks to Dodgeb4you and Knuckleharley, you have been a big help. The Commutator didn't appear to have any insulating material on it, so maybe the some one has been sassing around with it before me. Of course I am not much better all I could do was try, and in so doing I think it would have been cheaper to just buy a restored one to begin with. Oh well, thats pretty much how it goes. Thanks again. I know a guy out west that can fix this abortion. L.O.L. Tom
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The Commutator Looked Great, as did the Field Coils. I can't figure this one out. But it must be Grounding out otherwise why the spark show?
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I did not wire wheel anything
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Just the Jumper Wire the Bushings, the Brushes, and the Brush Springs. Not the Field Coils, They wouldn't come out - even beating them with a 6 pound Hammer on a Impact screw Driver on my Concrete Driveway with my Son holding it - (He is a Marine - strong) we couldn't remove the Coils.
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OK, now I am getting somewhere. The Sparks fly when I remove the Strap and hook the Neg to the nut and the Positive to the Pinion Housing. Something is wrong in the Starter itself?
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10-4 going to do now
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Dodgeb4ya, With Negative Cable going to Inner Stud with Strap to directly power the Starter - for the Starter portion only. Sparks flew everywhere. Note had I left it this way I would have shorted my Battery. I re-examined my soldered Brushes. everything is in order inside the starter. I tried the other post again as before nothing. No sound out of the Selenoid with a host of hook ups.
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I will try
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Selenoid - No Click Sound
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I did hook Neg (-) Battery Cable to the Large Stud opposite the Inner Strap Stud..... and The Positive (+) Cable to the Case Ground. Nothing. How do I directly power the starter motor by passing the selenoid?
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Results of the Knuckleharley Test - nothing. I am dumbfounded. I have read the Points have to be adjusted within Limits in the Selenoid. But I do not see why it would not be spinning other than the Selenoid is not working. Crap. I now have about $200 in this project with zero results. Any Ideas from the Pros? I have a friend here in NC that may have a spare Selenoid, I will call him tonight. Feeling like Mr. Bad Wrench right about right now. Tom
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It will work, I got good Soldered joints etc. It was clean inside and the Selenoid Was also Clean inside, No rust or burnt points etc. I will tell you'all the results tomorrow.
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I also need Tag Pins to reinstall the Tag. The only place I can find them is on Ebay. $4.95 for 2. Not really my cup of Tea pricewise. This is the infamous MAX4050 Starter.
