DocHemi

I was able to get a key made but after I put the lock back in it feels loose. Not sure if it's a clip issue or what. This was on the passenger side as I also needed to figure out why the window didn't like rolling down sometimes. Found that if I push in the handle while turning it it works fine. Otherwise it can bind up. Haven't noticed an adjustment for that. Had it not been so hot and humid out I would have taken the driver's side off to investigate the latch. Do you have to remove the lock cylinder to remove the latch? Seems I saw an eBay auction that showed the lock control as separate.

Haha across the US without A/C? I'd die.

Shipping my car to SF as we speak. I'll send the transporter for it when you're done :)

I put some shoulder to it from the inside while holding the handle and it opened. Open sesame! I greased both contact points but you still have to give it a good tug to open. That can't be good for it. I believe it's the door side that's causing trouble (that rotary gear). Is that a replaceable part or do I need to get a whole inside door mechanism? I need to find a service manual.

pure-gas.org ROCKS (listing of all stations with ethanol free gas)

1949 Plymouth business coupe The other day the door wasn't latching well when I left so I gave it a good tug and it fully latched. Then when I got to my destination it wouldn't open. I tried the inner and outer handles. When I got home I investigated further and could see the linkages working through the lowered window. It was almost like the door was locked sometimes. I have no key for it but I popped out the passenger side lock (yay access hole) to see about getting a key made. I've tried lifting, pushing down, pushing in, and pushing out while using the handles. If it indeed did lock itself, would the inside door handle unlock it when I pulled on it? Also is the shaft that comes out of the lock cylinder supposed to be loose? I've searched through the forum for similar issues but only found one that suggested lifting the door.

As you can see there's nothing left of the original dash/gauges/switches. You can see the emergency brake lever in front of the seat.

I guess this is my introduction to the forum. I recently purchased this 1949 business coupe. It was built in the 80s-90s I believe. It has a Chevrolet running gear (believe the front clip is from a 74 Nova). The plus is that it has power steering, power front disc brakes, and a turbo 350 transmission. It gets a lot of attention. Probably due to the color. The previous owners used RTV anywhere that leaked so I spent a weekend digging it out around the cowl vent. I hope I replaced the vent gasket correctly. Getting the 4 screws back in under the dash was not fun. Added bonus was while under there I somehow broke the brittle plastic oil pressure line to the gauge and didn't notice. I then moved the car in the dark. Next day I find there's oil all over the carpet. I don't think it's ever going to come out. Don't have door keys and I guess that's the reason the trunk lock has been drilled out. Would it be easier to have a key made for by a locksmith or find a complete set? I do hate that the steering wheel isn't original but unless I can find an adapter I'm stuck with it as is. Was there any kind of sill plate? My next step is to get a Newport wiper motor and some arms so I can drive it without worry of rain. Not sure whether I want to get the intermittent option or not. I'm afraid I'm going to have to rewire the car. I don't have the short adapter and knob for the cowl vent. I'm going to look around and see if it's something I can make. I've seen some business coupes with trim around the base of the roof and along the fenders/quarters and some without. Were these options? A shop manual is also on my list to find. What years used the trunk lock like mine? There was a lock cylinder on eBay I just missed a few weeks ago. This is my first modified car and being a bit of purist it's a bit weird.