Tom Skinner

Carolina Chrysler Club: carolinachryslerclub@gmail.com (Kevin Gilland President). Ball is in your Court.

CJ, Where are you in N.C. Knuckleharley is in the East Side of the State. I am in Huntersville, (North of Charlotte). Maybe one of us can help you. Unless you just don't trust us. I am not in the market for that car (I am over 60 and do not want a project car) I only want drivers that run. I am however, in the Carolina Chrysler Club and can put you into contact with about 40 members here in North Carolina. Please advise me if you so choose to, otherwise, Good Luck. Tom

One more of my dash

A little bit too big

I am testing my ability to add a picture. Tom

Correct, a repair /adjustment must be made to prevent battery running down.

Good luck with the knee replacements first. My 70 year old buddy Irving in Asheville N.C. told me last night his doctor told him he needs a knee replacement also. I asked him why and he said it was because of arthritis. Also a buddy of mine at work 60 just got one late last year, and it didn't do him a bit of good (he limps). I don't want to suggest anything because I am not a doctor and this site is for car repairs, however, it seems to me the doctors are handing out knee replacements like they handed out bypass surgery in the Eighties. Just be darned sure your up for it, and do one at a time to gauge what actual good it does you. It is a hell of a risk (stroke, etc) to take if not totally necessary. By the way that 1939 Chrysler sure looks like a nice find. Go for it and keep us posted. By the way I took Cholosterol pills for five years, and had terrible knee pain to the point that I almost needed a cane to walk. I quit the pills, and a month or so later I was good as new. Once again nice 39 I would do the car first. Good luck. (Irving said the surgery was going to be about 130k). Nice doctors, they really care about us. Tom

There is in the middle of the door a large nut, in which the Regulator/Armature mechanism may be adjusted to correct this situation. There was a recent thread on installing front glass that touched on this. The Manual simply shows it as an adjustment nut. Try it. It will correct this problem. Of course one must remove the Fabric Panel to see it. Also check to see if the Window is in its track right with snap rings in proper place. Tom

Been experiencing this for 44 years with multiple 6 volt old Chrysler's. 99% of the time a bad bulb or ground. Good luck chasing it down. Tom

Go Ebay 1940-1948 Plymouth Dodge Chrysler Gas Sender Unit $115. The list shows good for 5.3 Liter New Yorker or 4.1 Winsor Tanks (8 or 6 Cylinder cars) Tom

I didn't mean to do anything wrong. I am over 60 and work 9 hours a day. Sometimes I'm bushed and just read the threads thinking " let this guy muddle through on his own", other times I figure like the Dr. above - let me help out. We all have different energy levels, and come on the Thread at different times of the day. I don't know about you guys but I know I have asked some pretty stupid as _ ed questions on here before, and yet someone, has always given me a polite answer. Even The Big Don Coatney. So I just want to thank everyone for sharing especially Rich (desoto1939) on Sisson Chokes - he is the man. We all have our strong Suites and our weak ones.I just think this is about the best place to be sometimes - day or night. Collegial, whats that mean? L.O.L. Always having fun here. Thanks Everyone. Tom

Once Again Vinatge Power Wagons Parts Catalog Page 21 Shows (Civilian D Vehicles) Fuel Gauge Senders, that appear to have adjustable armatures. Confirm with them first. Phone 641-472-4665. I have quized them on Parts before they are pretty good at describing the applications/uses of their Parts. Tom

SSDave, I pulled out my trusty dusty parts catalog for you. The 6 Cylinder Fuel Tank Gauge shows Part #1120 552. The 8 Cylinder Part # 857 379. Keep in mind these are original 1947 Chrysler Part Numbers, that may or may not be available for cross referencing today. I just wanted to confirm to you that yes they are different. How other than their armature being different lengths as has been suggested I do not know. Part Type Code was 14-72-1 Page 252. In addition to that the 6 Cylinder Fuel Tank Part Type Code 14-88-1 Page 256, shows Part Number #1121 520 (17 Gallons). The 8 Cylinder Part Number 1121 515 (20 Gallons). Good Luck with your search. Tom

Vintage Power Wagon sells a Service Manual for the Chrysler Industrial Engine. I have a copy, and the Manifold Heat Control Valve is clearly shown on Page 62. In addition to that the Imperial Website has a technical/service tab that shows various Service Booklets on line on how to adjust a Sisson Choke. Actually using the Imperial Website will show you all of what you need to know without spending a dime (except for a few pages of paper copies you may require) for your shop use. Tom

Andy Bernbaum is also very fair. They have sold me quality parts for years. I guess because I live close to Steele Rubber (30 minutes) away I received great service from them? I cannot speak for Andy Dodge, we all experience business dealings differently. One thing I did notice about Steele Rubber was when they sold me Front and Rear Windshield rubber they never mentioned I needed sealer or cleaner, so I had to drive back over there and buy some. I was under the impression that a good sales person would have pointed that out to me the first time, or at least asked me if I needed sealer or cleaner with my order. So yes, in a way the Counter Person seemed a little like they just wanted to ring me up and be done with the transaction, instead of asking me about what I actually was trying to accomplish. Other than that I had no problem. Incidently my Cowl Vent Rubber Didn't fit either, and I had to just buy a long piece not a form fitted piece but just a long straight piece to fit on myself. So I will admit they probably had a bad batch of Vent Rubbers for a time??? Andy B. is also (I have seen here) very good with Rubber Trims. Tom

Steele Rubber, Denver, North Carolina. They are however, proud of their Rubber Moldings. But they all fit like a glove. I did all my Rubber Moldings there, Front and Rear Vent Rubbers, also front and Rear Windshields, Tail Light Housings, Brake Light Housing, etc. Tom

5 years ago when I was 55 and still strong as an Ox, I took a piece of Flat Metal 6" x 48" 16 Gauge, and used spray adhesive to glue 80 Grit Sandpaper to it (Belt sander size paper) from Lowe's. I also prepared the other side with 120 Grit. Then on the flatest part of my garage floor I rubbed the two Manifolds bolted together their Flanges against it in a continous firm fashion until all flange surfaces became flat and true. The sand paper on the other side acted like a bench hog. It went fast, maybe 20 - 25 strokes on each Grit. They were ready to install, Flat and True to each other and looked professionally machined. Using New Manifold Gaskets with High Heat Gasket Sealer they snugged back on true and have never leaked since. In my humble opinion sending manifolds out to be machined is not necessary when using my method described above. Metal Stud Supply Houses have the Flat Metal, and will sell you a 4' piece cheap. I think I had @$10 in my shade Tree method. You need strong arms and wrists to hold the Manifolds Flat and True as you Rub them across the home made plane. The weight of the Manifolds helped keep them true, care must be in not letting tem rock back or forth in either direction. Tom

Static time it. Engine doesn't need to run to time it. Get #1 Cylinder to T.D.C. (Top Dead Center) Take Coil Wire from Distributer and hold next to a ground about 1/4" away from say a bare spot on the block. Loosen Distributor, turn ignition key on. turn distributor back and forth until a spark jumps at the ground. Lock Distributor bolt. Now you are Static Timed. Start the Engine and hook up a Timing Light and dynamic Time it as desired. Tom

I installed the Tie Rods in with the Pitman Arm Bushings and got Goodyear to do an alignment this morning. Their Computer/system had the specs for a 1948 Windsor which is essentially the same as my 1948 Chrysler Royal. A very competent mechanic named Shane (about 40 years old) had it sorted out inside of 45 minutes. I let him use my manual anyhow and also my C-611 Camber wrench I had previously got on ebay. It rides real straight and smooth now. My old Tie Rods were all loose and gritty and beyond saving so when I got home from Goodyear I tossed them. Tie Rods @ $165, Pitman Bushings $32, alignment $89. Worth every penny. Of course I had my 8 hours labor in there cleaning and painting everything up as well. All's well that ends well. Thank you for all the great advice. Tom

10-4 Tighten to pin goes in. Thanks! Tom

I got my Pickle Fork at Advance Auto for $9.67 Tax included. What a deal. Its a heavy metal Fork over a foot long.

Got em off. It took a Pickle Forking and I banged them right off with my Big Hammer. L.O.L. (Now don't think dirty) Anyways of course cleaning everything is the biggie now. I got new Tie Rods from Andy Bernbaums (Quality Tie Rods). I also stopped by a Front End Joint to ask the Mechanic what to tighten the Castle Nuts to. He said about 35 - 40LBS then back off enough to put the Cotter Pin in. I also ordered some Pitman Arm Bushings (4) mine look a little dicey. Of course I removed the famous Left Side Lower Engine Splash Shield to clean up to Paint. Thanks for all the great advice. I am a newbie to front ends. Tom

Thanks Chazz, I guess a Wooden Mallet doesn't really get it. I'll pull out a 2lbs Hammer once I buy my pickle fork. Tom

Gents, I just removed the Cotter Pins on my Tie Rod ends, The Castle Nuts, turned them around and ran them up flush, and took a wooden mallet andtried beating them loose. No go. Any suggestions? A buddy has suggested a pickle fork. I guess they sell them at Advance Auto? Tom

L.O.L. me too. And don't forget to stand up slowly after getting off the floor, or you can get dizzy. No drinking (adult beverages) before laying under cars is my rule.