Norm Knowles

Recently had all shoes relined for my 48 Dodge coupe at Edmonton Brake and Clutch phone #780-484-0067 and they did a great job. Do not know if they have shoes for you but suggest you try them. Their e mail is info@edbrakeclutch.ca Don't know where you live so this may be inconvenient. Good shoes might be available at a wrecking yard even though they may need relining.

Thanks for the help guys. With a friends pair of hands helping we got them out and as suspected the original with a good vacuuming look almost like new. They did come the way you said. Thanks again. Will be on the road when I get the new fuel pump early next week. Sure looking forward to driving the old girl.

Need some help and advice. Need to remove old beat up seat covers from rear seat. Got front ones out. 1st what do you remove first Backrest or seat cushion? 2 as I do not wish to damage the original upholstery, which appears to be in very good condition, any tips on the procedure would be appreciated. I have tried ways I suspected would work but the force with my hands seems to be more than it should be and any more may cause damage. 3 is the seat cushion one piece right to the floor or is it divided? The old cover does not let me see which. Thanks for any help.

From reading earlier comments on the Forum I know I have a AC588 fp on my 48 Dodge D25C. While ideling I noticed it leaking a fair amount. Was unable to see exactly where when looking from above and below so removed it. Cannot see any obvious place as a source of the leak and it was not from the glass bowl. Any thoughts as to what may be the problem or should I replace it? Thanks for your help

Plymouthy Adams - Do you have a similar list for Chrysler products?

Need more help. Thanks in advance. Not sure if I have the correct terminology here but going to try. For my 48 Dodge D25C my Shop Manual on page 42 Fig 11 shows a picture of the "cam" on the left side of the wheel cylinder that is fastened to the "support plate". One of mine has been "doctored" with a build up of welding material so it still allows one to change the "heel" setting. However the space between it and the spring clip is at least 1/4 inch and thus allows the shoe to move a bit back and forth from the support plate. Probably a bit more than an 1/8 inch of travel. Will this cause a problem??? If so can the "cam" be removed and replaced??? The "cam" turning nut on the backside of the support plate has a strong looking spring under it. If it can be replaced how do you get it off or do I have to replace the whole support plate???

Thanks to all. Looks like Amazon has solved my problem for the moment.

Also found that the last eight inches of wire to the switch were in very poor condition so spliced in new pieces.

Just did this on my 48 Dodge and did the same as suggested by Greg g and found the switch defective. Replaced it and all works now.

Thanks to all but for dpollo I have checked with NAPA and two other auto parts dealers before submitting my request and no one can find the kits available.

Hi All - need help. I am doing a major overhaul of the brake system in my 48 Dodge D25C and am having a lot of trouble getting parts for cylinders in both front and rear wheels. I have found several possibilities for them in E Bay but do not know which to get. I have noticed in several submissions from members over many parts that off shore products may be junk and will not have a good service life. I need some advice on the best product as E bay has several e.g. Raybestos and Dorman etc. Or is it advisable to get mine rebuilt?? Maybe someone knows of another good supplier. Thanks for any and all comments.

I do not know about the era we are usually most interested in regarding the hidden serial number but for later years, from about 1960 this number matched the visible number on the door post or maybe the firewall. I was a police officer for years and we often found vehicles that were suspected as stolen as the visible plate may appear to be "doctored" but matched the paper documentation. Checking the hidden number on the frame which, depending on the manufacturer, was hard to find and see but when checked would usually indicate a stolen vehicle or a previous insurance fraud. I often had to use a small mirror to read the hidden number on top of the frame with only about an inch of space between it and the body of the vehicle. I never did have to do this on a vehicle prior to about 1965 if my memory is accurate. Just for your info.

KNUCKLEHARLEY - Your comment about "hobby and contest" was not solicited or required. Please note my original comment This will be solved in time.

Don, I have read your story and all the responses and photos attached. I am almost 82 years old but after looking about 60 years I just recently found a 1948 Dodge Coupe which I have always wanted since I fell in love with its looks when I was about 18 years old. For many reasons but mostly financial the few that I saw and liked were not available to me. Finally about three months ago I found one that was original and in very good condition. I was lucky enough to obtain it and now am trying to get it in good driving condition for 20 to 100 mile trips to show it off. The main problem today is a major brake inspection and repair that I lack knowledge and physical ability to do on my own. I knew and have found that there is a problem nowdays to find trustworthy and knowledgeable people to work on these vintage vehicles in my area but I can solve that in time. I really want to show it off but at my age how much time do I have left? I do hope you will reconsider and enjoy driving your car for years to come. Good luck!!! Incidentally since joining this Forum the few questions I have posted have been answered promptly and effectively which I am most appreciative of. More will likely be asked.

Thanks for your help guys. I will do a little checking further afield as I want to keep car as original as I possibly can but if necessary I will get one built from the dimension drawing Tod sent. If driving without this shield what problems can one expect to have.