Merle Coggins

It just presses off and on. The trick is finding a way to support the bearing to press out the sleeve. One of these bearing pullers can be useful if you have one.

Give me a heads-up for next year. I’d drive my truck down there to help you “represent” Dodges. It’s just a quick 2 to 2-1/2 hour drive for me and the Ol’ Dodge. I had other commitments for this weekend so this year wouldn’t work for me. Merle

Should have been rotating them every few thousand miles. FWD vehicles eat up front tires because they are used for both driving and braking forces. Rear tires are just along for the ride and get very little wear, comparatively.

As I read that sentence I could here it... Along with the screen door slamming shut behind me. ?

Having seen the car in person I'll say that someone has a chance to get a very nice ride. If I lived closer, Don, I'd be there in a heartbeat to help you with the needed tune-up/repairs. I sympathize with your struggles and wish I could do something to help you out.

As I remember, the FD in my truck took just under2 gallons. But my memory may be off. .

Could you drill a 5th hole in the center of the door jam, but not through the plate, so that you could plug weld the plate to the inner part of the hinge pocket? It may be difficult to grind, or file, the weld smooth for the hinge to sit flush, but it may be an option.

Just download the image and save it. If you are using a PC just right click on the picture and select “Save image as” to save it to your computer. On my iPad I can hold my finger on the picture until I get a pop up menu. Then select “Save Image” . Once you have it saved to your computer you can use a service at Walmart, Walgreens, etc. to have a print made.

Wisconsin requires that now too.

I had a wheel cylinder do this, but I haven't noticed it lately. When parked for extended periods the residual pressure would bleed down allowing the cup to relax and seep a little. Once there was pressure in the system again it would be fine. It has either corrected itself over time or I just haven't noticed it. Also, I believe the larger piston should go towards the rear shoe.

I'm with Brian on this one... What's the condition of your battery cables? Often times these older 6v vehicles have had light duty, off the shelf, battery cables installed which severely limit the current to the starter. This causes slow cranking and hard starting due to the voltage drop.

I've heard that much of the supply issue with many things is due to a lack of shipping containers. The major ports that handle container ships are backlogged, and with staffing issues due to COVID it doesn't help. Also, because so much of the focus is on managing the incoming containers, the empty containers aren't going back to where they need to go. I've been hearing it from our suppliers too. Some of the delays are due to it sitting in port waiting to be delivered, and some of it is due to waiting on available containers so that it can be shipped.

It's possible that your clutch friction material has been contaminated and glazed up. My truck has Fluid Drive with a 4 speed. A couple years after I finished my rebuild I noticed the clutch slipping in 4 gear, on a hard pull. When I was putting it together I cleaned up the clutch disc with solvent, which effected the clutch material over time. I pulled the clutch and had the pressure plate rebuilt, FD clutch plate resurfaced, and reassembled with a new disc. It's been fine ever since. I would advise caution when working with the FD unit. I was naive at the time, when I pulled the clutch plate from my FD. I learned later that this type of work could potentially damage the seal. But my work method turned out to be decent and no damage was done. I also drained and refilled the FD when I was reassembling the engine/trans. I used AW32 Tractor Hydraulic fluid, which seems to be working well. Also, since that time I've seen several posts here regarding leaving it alone unless you are having an issue.

I have a similar electric pump setup. I originally set it up to aid in priming the carb after prolonged parking. But I found it’s also helpful when the engine compartment temp climbs and the engine begins to struggle to get adequate fuel. I switch on the pump and within a few seconds the engine smooths out and runs well again. Once I can get out on the open road again I’ll switch it off.

Hard to tell from this picture but that looks like a pulverizer/stabilizer. Those are used to completely grind up the pavement, and the road base underneath it. Then the road is re-graded and compacted before laying down a new pavement layer. That's not a machine used for chip-sealing a road.

Why is the hood laying on the lawn?

What carburetor is on your car? Some carbs, including the Carters, use a metering needle that helps adjust the fuel metering at partial throttle. Maybe your metering needle is not functioning properly.

I agree. I get 12-14, even when Highway cruising.

I don’t believe you’ll have much luck finding a different real axle that will allow you to maintain your original wheels. That 6 bolt pattern on the 1 ton trucks isn’t a common size that I’m aware of. Your truck likely has a 4.3:1 differential gears. The diff in the 1 ton trucks is larger than what was used in the 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks that can be swapped with car differentials. However, I seem to remember hearing that the 1 ton diff may be the same size as the long wheel base Chrysler and DeSoto limos. Again, not an easy find, but if you could locate a diff from one of those cars, and it will swap with your truck diff, then you may be able to get some more highway friendly gears into your stock axle. Another option would be to change out the transmission with an overdrive 5 speed, such as the infamous T5. The overdrive should give you a satisfactory overall gear ratio for cruising.

It's possible that the level was a little low so you didn't notice any leakage in normal operating position. Then with it removed, and sitting pinion down hill, that oil migrated through the seal. If the seal allowed leakage then now is the time to replace it.

Was that the only serious damage? If so you had some good luck.

If the resistor is supposed to be on the points side of the coil then there is no way to give it a 12v boost during cranking. And, as you surmise, there would be no 12v ‘start’ signal available anyway with a stomp starter.

If you think about it, in a car you need the higher stopping power up front, whereas in a truck that's hauling a heavy load you may need more stopping power at the rear wheels. The dual cylinder brake systems essentially have 2 leading shoes vs. the double sided cylinder systems that have a leading shoe and a trailing shoe. 2 Cylinders with 2 leading shoes equals greater stopping power.

That pin shouldn't be a press fit into anything. As stated earlier it should push in easily with thumb pressure. Circlips retain it into the pistons and the connecting rod should be able to float on the pin. Small end bushing in the rod should get lubricated via a passage between the big end and small end.

Love the smell of a freshly mowed hay field.