Merle Coggins

Did you do a disc brake conversion on the front axle? If so this will require shortening the tie rod. At least that was the case with my Rusty Hope kit. The caliper mounting plate moves the steering arms inboard and I found that my tie rod didn't have enough adjustment to compensate for this. I ended up trimming off an equal amount off of each end and reinserting the tie rod ends. This gave me the adjustability that I needed.

I have not seen that type of filter canister with a bolt on lid, but if you can identify the proper filter cartridge there's no reason why it won't work for you. As you said, many filters were aftermarket installs on these trucks. You'll need to determine which ports on the filter canister are Inlet and Outlet and make up new lines to connect to your engine. I took your photo and labeled the plugs for you as you seemed unsure how to connect it. You may also want to search for the correct coil mounting bracket as this one seems to be home made.

Allow the rod that goes to the inside handle pivot to rotate down so that it is parallel to the window track. This will allow the latch assembly to rotate out around the window track. At least that's how I remember finally getting mine out.

Remove the brake backing plate. The outer seal in pressed into that anyway. Once you have that out of the way you'll need to pull the axle shaft. You may need to rig up a puller, or slide hammer to pull the axle. The inner seal is behind the wheel bearing. When you go back together you'll want to clean and repack the bearing with grease.

What part of 'Sconsin are you in?

I would have welcomed 28 degrees this morning. We had -8. I'm sure it was colder farther north, as I'm in the Milwaukee area this week.

From what I've seen the C-series changed the bell housings to be more like that used in the cars. However, everything forward of the bell housing should be pretty much the same. Just use your bell housing on that engine block and it should all be good.

Send that speedo face off to Keven Paddy, aka B1B Keven. He does vinyl overlays that'll make it like new again.

I ran those cheap Peterson tail lights for several years before I bought a set of reproduction 'vintage' Dodge tail lights. I like the look with the 'DODGE' logo in the lenses, but the Peterson lights were better quality in regards to the light socket and wiring.

Aren't many of the vehicles at the Volo Car Museum also for sale too? I've been through that place a couple of times.

The diode is those type of relays is a quenching diode that is used to protect the switching circuit from arcing. Maybe that's just another way of saying what Sniper said, "to prevent back EMF". Some relays use a resistor for this purpose. Those with the resistor wouldn't be polarity sensitive, but the diode ones certainly are.

I've done that several times too. It works well. I've also seen a procedure for our flat head engines where you dunk the pump in oil and turn the pump by hand until it purges all air out of it. Then install it, with it full of oil. Apparently this is also sufficient for the pump to be able to pull up oil from the sump upon first startup.

I didn't realize there was a lowside bed option for the B-Series 3/4 ton trucks. I though it was only a 1/2 ton option. The 3/4, and 1 ton, beds are wider and don't need those removeable skirts for spring shackle maintenance. At least there isn't any on my highside bed.

I likely won't make it this year. I'm planning another trip to Back to the 50's this year. However, I do have big plans for next year...

There is a different front track that will need to be sourced and installed into the door. Then, after you remove the vent window you will need to cut out, or bend out of the way, two mounting tabs under the vent window.I believe the window regulators are the same. I’m not sure if the bottom glass brackets are interchangeable.

If they're a little wonky they'll better match their owner... 🤣

It seems that I remember that the ZF manual transmissions that Ford used in their Super Duty trucks called for ATF as well.

I would rabbit the bottom of the planks. It would be the easier option and nobody would know the difference.

Since the Fluid Drive is a fluid coupling, as you reference, there is no direct connection between the transmission and the engine. This is why you MUST have a working Parking Brake on FD equipped vehicles. If parked on a grade, even with the transmission in low gear, the vehicle will roll. At very low speeds there will be no power transfer through the Fluid Drive fluid coupler, which will allow the transmission to spin with very little resistance. When the engine is running the internal fins on the Impeller side of the FD will force the oil in the FD unit to transfer power to the Turbine side (output/clutch). The higher the RPM the more power will be transmitted through the FD.

When starting cold I give the pedal a couple of pumps, then step on the start pedal and crank it right up. When starting HOT I have found that it starts better with the throttle slightly open. I used to use the throttle knob for that purpose, then found it easier to use the throttle pedal. After a few 2 footed starts I learned to use my toe on the starter with my heal on the throttle pedal. Quick and easy hot starts that way.

Not seeing any paint on it yet. It left for paint a month ago... no progress yet?

You should be sure all 13 fasteners have been removed. That's the best way to know you have them all, count them. Those 3 that Bobacuda and JBNeal show are easily missed as they are a bit hidden. Also those 2 longer studs that go through the exhaust manifold, shown by Bobacuda, can sometimes bond themselves to the manifold. When this happens you'll have to work a bit to break that bond without breaking the manifold.

As I recall there's a metal sleeve inside the rubber mounts so that you can tighten the bolt and only squish the rubber so much.

Tight enough so that the cab won't fall off? I know that's a Smart @$$ answer, but generally when you don't have a specified torque published, just go with standard torque for that size fastener, such as this one. Torque-Tension Reference Guide.pdf

Unfortunately Apple doesn't seem to have a setting available to adjust photo file size. You would need a 3rd party app, like to resize them after the fact. Its a PITA. Another way would be to email them to yourself from the phone. Then it will ask you which file size you would like to send. That's another way to downsize the files from an Apple phone.