Jocko_51_B3B

51-53 218 Engine Wanted View Advert Looking for a good 1951-1953 218 block (internal bypass only) preferably not over-bored, but I'll consider all offers. I'll also consider buying a whole unstuck 218 engine if anyone wants to sell an entire engine. Advertiser Jocko_51_B3B Date 01/21/2020 Price $500.00 Category Individual Member Classified Wanted Ad  

51-53 Engine Wanted View Advert Looking for a good 1951-1953 218 block (internal bypass only) preferably not over-bored, but I'll consider all offers. I'll also consider buying a whole unstuck 218 engine if anyone wants to sell an entire engine. Advertiser Jocko_51_B3B Date 01/22/20 Price $500.00 Category Individual Member Classified For Sale Ad  

Tyler, You might know about this already, but in case you don't, this little booklet goes into detail about every aspect of these carburetors including the accelerator pump system and how to troubleshoot it. http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/010/cover.htm I've read through the entire booklet and learned quite a lot. You can also take a look at this old Master Tech presentation on Carter/Ball and Ball carburetors. Even if the video doesn't help your immediate problem it's good stuff to know. I watched the video first, then went back and read the booklet. The booklet has a more detailed explanation of these carburetors, but both were very helpful to me in rebuilding my carb. I ordered my rebuild kits from DCM Classics. Hope that helps.

I think I'm making progress. Checked the float level. Sure enough, the float was set too high. The float was over the top of the bowl so I adjusted it to the correct 5/64 in. below the top. I'm going to disassemble and clean the whole carb even though this was a rebuilt unit I bought online. One would think that "rebuilt" means cleaned, ADJUSTED, worn parts replaced, and reassembled correctly. Lesson learned AGAIN. Don't trust anybody but yourself to do things right! Check everything.

I ran my B3B flathead on a test stand and noticed some liquid gas dripping out of the main discharge nozzle holes at the carburetor venturi (a drop or two every few seconds). The drops would then fall down toward the throttle. Is this normal or should gasoline be completely atomized as it comes out of the nozzle holes? The reason I ask this question is because my spark plugs got carboned up after only a short time running the engine (an hour or so). Could the drops of un-atomized gas be causing a too-rich mixture? Or is it more likely I just need to adjust the idle mixture? Or could there be another reason for the carbon buildup on the spark plugs?

DJ, Thanks for the response. I'll drill it out with a 7/16 bit. Good to know that your temp bulb still sealed. That's what I wanted to know. Glenn

I thought I had found the right fitting but it seems things are never that easy. My temp bulb is too large to fit through the hole in the fitting. The diameter of my temp bulb is .433 - .435 in. The hole in my new fitting is .393. I suppose I can drill out the fitting with a 7/16 bit (7/16 = .4375). The bulb might still seal even though the hole in the fitting will be 2 or 3 thousandths larger than the bulb. But I wonder why drilling out the fitting should even be necessary. Maybe the bulb diameters varied a little bit from the factory, some larger, some smaller. I obtained the fitting from one of the well-known Pilothouse parts suppliers so I'm not sure who the original manufacturer is. Has anyone else encountered this problem?

My original Dodge temperature bulb is on the left. I bought a new brass fitting at ACE HW (photo on the right) to screw into the head but it lacks an internal seating surface for the tapered seat on the bulb to seal against. (In fact, the bulb slips completely through the new fitting.) So I can see that the new fitting I bought is wrong. Has anyone actually found the correct fitting (one with a tapered internal seat) at a big box store like Home Depot? Can someone post a picture of the correct fitting showing the internals? I'm also going to call Stewart Warner today, but I don't see anything on their website that looks like it would work.

I haven't installed my windshield yet, but this video shows how to properly install glass into metal frames. My vent windows and side roll-ups turned out perfectly. https://glass4classics.com.au/how-to-assembling-1947-1954-australian-chevrolet-pickup-1-4-vent-window/

Brent, Thanks. That's good to know. That's why I was thinking about a grommet or a plug of some kind to help seal the hole. You must have had an old beat up grill to get the patch you used. Looks like that worked pretty well. Unfortunately I don't have an extra grill but it shouldn't be too hard to patch the "dish". Glenn

The re-designed dash and the "Job Rated" medallion in the grill clearly favor the '51 B3 over all the other Pilothouse models because it was first to implement these tremendously artistic improvements! I've heard they even make the engine run a little smoother and use less gas too!

The thing that started bugging me about the hacked out metal was the question of water getting into the marker lights. But if there was a 1 inch open hole from the factory anyway, I might just live with it. Then again, knowing me, maybe not. Shoulda fixed it right away.