Jocko_51_B3B

I like the weed trimmer line idea better than using a fiber string. Trimmer line would be less abrasive to the rubber and should pull out and around with less friction. I'll remember that for next time. Good idea.

Thanks to everyone who responded with window installation tips! I was able to install the center window. I used some string and a plastic pry tool from HF. I had a helper hold the window from the inside. If I ever do this again, I'll try using a slightly thicker string (maybe 1/8 inch thick) to reduce the chance of cutting the rubber or breaking the string. The string I used was only .090 because that's what I had laying around.

I was able to get the cab corner windows in myself, but the center window is giving me a hard time. I bought some hemp rope at the hardware store to try the old rope trick, but that was no help at all. Maybe hemp is the wrong type. Maybe the rope was the wrong size. Who knows? Anyway, someone on this forum probably knows a good method for installing the center window. I searched the Pilothouse forum but didn't see any posts about this. Nothing about this specifically on Youtube either as far as I can tell.

Thank You. The closer I get to the finish line with this truck, the more questions seem to pop up!

My B3B didn't come with a cowl vent screen. Should it have one? If so, how should it be secured to the vent?

My B3B didn't come with a cowl vent screen. Should it have one?

I have a related coolant drain valve problem. I was able to remove the old valve and replace it with a new one. But - no doubt due to corrosion inside the coolant passage - I saw that there were only 2 to 3 pipe threads left in the block to screw the drain valve into. I put some Permatex sealant on the valve threads and it's holding, but I really don't trust it. I wonder if there is something that can be done to repair the block and restore the pipe threads. I'd feel much better with six or seven threads in there. Or is there some other clever way to make the valve secure and leakproof rather than resorting to JB Weld?

Unfortunately I don't have pictures, but the machine shop took the block back and stitched the crack which corrected the leak so far. Time will tell. When I first bought the truck the block was OK - no coolant in the oil (the oil wasn't new either). The problem first showed up after the re-sleeving. When I put the engine together I was very careful to follow the torque specs for the head bolts and to torque them in the correct order. The only other source of stress on the block would have been when I put it back on the frame with a cherry picker by using four head bolts, but I doubt that would crack the block.

Any opinions out there regarding the best kind of coolant to use in these old cast iron engines, IAT, OAT, or HOAT? Should it contain silicate or not? From what I've read, some coolants contain silicate, and some don't. I'm not even sure why silicate is added. One of my textbooks says that silicates can cause extra wear on water pump impellers although my B3B won't be driven that much anyway.

Well, I found the problem. There was a fine crack along the top of the block near the #3 and #4 cylinders. Since the intake and exhaust manifolds were not yet installed I first saw evidence of the crack when I pressurizing the cooling system and saw coolant slowly accumulate inside the #3 #4 exhaust passage on the side of the engine. How coolant got into the oil from up there I'm not totally sure. I had previously had all six cylinders re-sleeved because there was some serious pitting in the #6 cylinder wall and because all six were already .060 over . I'm sure the crack occurred during the re-sleeving work although I can't prove it. With hindsight, if I had to do this again I might not re-sleeve all six cylinders, just the badly pitted one. Also, I would have made sure to have a magnetic particle test performed after any re-sleeving work and before putting the engine together. That might have saved me a ton of trouble and a truck load of wasted time. I'm not an expert on re-sleeving one of these engines, but I'm guessing it puts a lot of stress on the block, but what do I know?

51-53 218 Engine Wanted View Advert Looking for a good 1951-1953 218 block (internal bypass only) preferably not over-bored, but I'll consider all offers. I'll also consider buying a whole unstuck 218 engine if anyone wants to sell an entire engine. Advertiser Jocko_51_B3B Date 01/21/2020 Price $500.00 Category Individual Member Classified Wanted Ad  

Tyler, You might know about this already, but in case you don't, this little booklet goes into detail about every aspect of these carburetors including the accelerator pump system and how to troubleshoot it. http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/010/cover.htm I've read through the entire booklet and learned quite a lot. You can also take a look at this old Master Tech presentation on Carter/Ball and Ball carburetors. Even if the video doesn't help your immediate problem it's good stuff to know. I watched the video first, then went back and read the booklet. The booklet has a more detailed explanation of these carburetors, but both were very helpful to me in rebuilding my carb. I ordered my rebuild kits from DCM Classics. Hope that helps.

I think I'm making progress. Checked the float level. Sure enough, the float was set too high. The float was over the top of the bowl so I adjusted it to the correct 5/64 in. below the top. I'm going to disassemble and clean the whole carb even though this was a rebuilt unit I bought online. One would think that "rebuilt" means cleaned, ADJUSTED, worn parts replaced, and reassembled correctly. Lesson learned AGAIN. Don't trust anybody but yourself to do things right! Check everything.