Merle Coggins

I have 235/75R-15 Yokohama Geolanders on my truck with 15 X 5-1/2" rims. I found them to be the most reasonably priced tires at the time and they have done quite well over the years. I wouldn't say that they have a bias ply look to them, but I've been happy with them.

I figured they'd have plenty from here so I didn't go hunting for one. I guess I'll have to be on the lookout now.

Hey... I resemble that remark... ? (although I've never owned, nor worn, a cheese head hat) I've always known Cheese Head Screws as a slotted head machine screw with a thick head. I've also seen Allen wrenches referred to as Hex Keys, and their associated bolts as 'socket head screws/bolts'.

I missed that it was a front wheel, so the smaller size makes sense. A Channel Lock/slip joint pliers is the go-to tool for the front nut, as they usually aren’t all that tight. If it has a lock nut that is too tight for pliers, use a chisel and hammer against one of the points to break it loose (reverse for tightening). Once the lock nut is off the inner nut should come off easy.

8 sided hub nut sockets are still available through many tool suppliers. Check with OTC. I got one of theirs for a 1 ton project. I did a quick search. It seems the smallest octagon socket they have is 2-3/8" Are you sure of the size of your wheel bearing nuts? I believe the 1 ton truck rear hubs require a 2-9/16 socket. OTC 1905, like this on on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O845XQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

That's a standard "good practice" for any snap ring. Due to the way they are stamped out of a larger sheet of material it leaves a rounded edge on one side and a sharper edge on the other side. Always put the sharp edge side so that any thrust load will press it against the groove. It gives slightly more surface area to hold the ring in place against thrust force.

Mine had the same thing. Even the replacement tailgate I acquired had them. The holes are still there. It seemed to be a common "upgrade" of that time.

Mark, Maybe you need a little more ‘bling’ on the back of your truck when your out driving around… especially at night. ?

For the reason you mentioned, DO NOT attach the belts to the frame.

Any of my photos from old threads are likely gone as I’ve closed out my Photobucket account due to reasons discussed in another forum thread. For the upper mount I figured out where I wanted it and drilled the hole. I also drilled 2 smaller holes above and below the bolt hole. I then carefully lowered the anchor plate down inside the B-pillar, attached to a wire, until I could line up the anchor to the bolt hole. I ran a bolt in to hold it in place while I plug welded it to the B-pillar through the 2 smaller holes. If your cab is already painted you could probably drill and tap the anchor plate to use machine screws, in place of my plug welds, to hold them in place.

I realized after I had it done and started using them that I should have set the buckle ends farther apart, like yours are. They still work fine though, so I’m not going to change it.

Mine has a 45 degree fitting on the return port, which gives more clearance for the pressure feed fitting. Also, if you turn your pressure fitting to the 9:00 position (or maybe even 10:30) it may give you more room to work behind your starter. It seem that your starter is longer than mine. And I believe that threaded hole in your head is a throttle linkage attachment point for cars.

When’s the last time it’s had some lube. Both in the speedo unit and in the cable?

This is how I did mine, also from Julianos.

Up thru the B2 series the hoods use prop rods with limiting straps. Starting with the B3 series they upgraded to the hinged type hood support.

Since this thread has been going I started pay attention more to the adds I see. Otherwise I didn't pay much attention to them. I then noticed that on my laptop PC at work I don't see any adds, but on my iPad at home I see several. Lately they've been for Nordstroms, or similar. And I'm guessing they keep coming back as I accidently click on them when I'm scrolling sometimes. But at work I now wonder if our firewall settings are blocking the adds. I understand the adds help GTK pay the bills to keep this awesome forum running, but I don't seem to miss them when they're not there. ?

Hood straps... I just purchased a 1" black nylon web strap and cut the lengths I needed. I folded the ends over to have double thickness under the clamps. It's been working good for nearly 15 years now.

I’d take a battery operated angle grinder with a cut off wheel, along with other tools.

A leak-down test is a good complimentary test for the compression test. A compression test is quicker, and easier, to perform and offers you a good overall picture of the condition of your engine. Once you identify a cylinder with low compression you can perform the leak-down test to identify where that cylinder is loosing compression. With this test you can determine if you have a bad valve, or bad rings/piston, depending on where the air is coming out.

On your running hot issue... I don't suppose you checked the distribution tube behind the water pump when you changed it? That is often clogged up, or rotting away on older engines, and causes coolant flow issues through the block. There have also been several documented cases where the block was full of scale reducing the coolant volume and flow. You can remove the core plugs in the block and flush out the block to regain some of the cooling systems efficiency again.

Looks good, but those battery cables look a bit small for a 6 volt system. You’ll find it cranks over much better with larger cables.

That reminds me… I spotted this one a couple weeks ago.

According to my shop manual the large piston goes to the rear. I believe this is because the front shoe would be somewhat self energizing whereas the rear one wouldn’t be. So the larger piston would offer more force on the rear shoe to compensate.

Are you saying it needs to be set at 30 degrees advance in order for it to even run? That would be odd, unless your marker is off by that much. As Tooljunkie alluded to, the only way to properly find TDC is with a piston stop set to stop the piston before it reaches the top of it's stroke. You'd rotate the crank until the piston comes up against the stop. Then mark your pulley, Rotate the crank the opposite direction until the piston comes up against the stop again. Mark your pulley again at this point. Half way between the two marks will be TDC. You could probably achieve similar results with a dial indicator, or some other way to measure the piston height as you turn the crankshaft. Just stop at the exact same height in both directions. Have you don't a compression test on this engine? Low compression on one or more holes will make an engine run pretty rough. Is this a Zenith updraft carb? I don't know a lot about Zenith carbs, but I've seen a few on older equipment. Can you share some pictures of this machine? Does it look something like this? (image pulled from the internet)

I run Amsoil 80W-90 in my truck's transmission and have had no issues with it.