Merle Coggins
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Everything posted by Merle Coggins
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The purpose of the brass nuts is so that they don't rust and bond themselves to the studs. This aids in their removal in the future. As Mark said, just get them all good and snug. Then come back after a few heat cycles and recheck them all. As for the bolts that hold the two pieces together, I would just use normal grade 5 bolts. Anti-seize could be used but I don't have much faith in it's efficacy over time, given the hot environment. When you are installing the manifolds leave these 4 bolts a little loose so that the manifolds can align themselves to the block. Once they are tightened to the block come back and tighten these 4 bolts.
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You assumed wrong… When 2 of the pistons are at TDC 2 others are on their way towards the bottom and 2 others are on their way up. They are 120 degrees apart.
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Clutch Parts - where to get them
Merle Coggins replied to billrigsby's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
I took my clutch and disc to a local clutch shop. I believe they sent it out to Fort Wayne Clutch to have it rebuilt. -
As I saw this thread again I was thinking it may be a bad belt. Then I read your post. Good find. Easy fix.
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Are you sure you don’t have a bad spring, or binding track? Can you temporarily disconnect the door opener to check the movement of the door? You should be able to lift it with little effort if everything is working properly.
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You could also have a plugged relief/vent port in your master cylinder. When things heat up it may be building up pressure within the master cylinder if the piston chamber isn't able to vent back into the reservoir. This may account for your loss of free play. You may also have your brake pedal adjustment too tight which is not allowing the piston to return fully to uncover the vent port. This would give a similar symptom.
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@Worden18 How's the brake job on this guy coming along? It seems that the American, Meadowbrook, and B2C are getting all the love lately.
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My oil fill pipe offsets to the rear, and there is a clamp near the top that attaches at the coil bracket mount bolt.
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I think the originals are hex head.
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1/8” NPT pipe plug
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The rating is likely based on the basin size, not the fluid capacity.
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Driveshaft angle isn't the important one. You need to match the pinion shaft angle to the transmission tail shaft angle. The best way to do that is to measure the u-joint flange angles with the driveshaft removed. A magnetic angle finder tool is your friend here.
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I would separate them. The clutch will come off quite easy as you can spin it to access all of the bolts.
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I did mine the hard way. I laid the engine on it’s side, removed the oil pan, rod caps, and main caps. I then removed the crankshaft with FD attached. Once it was all out I then separated the FD from the crankshaft.
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This morning I saw a post on the Pilot-House FB group. There’s a gentleman trying to unload a 1 ton chassis in Reno, NV. Might have a viable differential for you… https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/374000674060289/
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I believe only the 1 ton truck differentials are compatible with your diff. The 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks share a diff with the 'every day' cars. According to my parts manual these were available in 4.1, 4.3, 4.89, and 5.625 gear ratios. There was never a 4.55 ratio for this size truck.
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What is local law enforcement going to think about an Iowa plate on the front of a Minnesota registered vehicle?
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West Coast Mirrors - Anybody using??
Merle Coggins replied to ArtfulDodger's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
It seems like that would be a perfect application for Rivnuts. -
I'll typically find the lost item when I decide to put the replacement item away "where I'll remember where it is". That's where I find the lost/misplaced item. ?
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They're pretty crazy.
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Is that a Zundapp?
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@WPVT Earlier you stated that you believe your mechanical advance and vacuum advance are both working properly, but you get detonation at higher speeds. It may be worth while to double check your vacuum advance unit. Years ago I started having a detonation problem with my truck at higher speeds, especially under load such as climbing hills. Eventually I found that my vacuum advance worked, but also leaked. This vacuum leak seemed to cause a lean condition which led to the detonation. After I replaced the vac advance unit (purchased from Kanter) and gave it a good tune-up, it ran great again.
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You had your foot depressing the clutch pedal? If so, even it it jumped into gear it shouldn’t have lurched forward. I think it’s time to get under the car and start your inspection with the clutch, then work your way back.
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I don’t know if the specs changed for your C1B, but here is a look at the specs for a B-series truck. It looks like 21 degrees total. 10 degrees mechanical and 11 with vacuum. You might be able to find an advancing timing light hanging in the tool isle at your local parts store. They’re pretty common. It may require a 12v supply. If your truck is still 6v you could use any 12v battery for a power source.
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Do yo have a timing light that can adjust to measure the advance? I suspect that one of your mechanical advance weight springs is bad and you’re getting way too much advance over 2000 RPM.
