Merle Coggins

I concure with Reg. I believe my painted ones are steel.

Pretty simple phone #

Just tried it again from home. It worked fine this time. Nice looking truck too. Must have been something with my work computer.

Looks like you're a "Member" here too, Greg.

Yes and No. It looks similar to a truck bell housing, with it's side mounting holes, but where's the clutch shaft? And that's quite a snake he has

The prices your shop quoted sound reasonable. That's about what I paid forthe work I had done recently. As for the work recommended... Mill Head $35 - Good idea to be sure the surface is flat (not warped) Bore & Hone Block $80 - I'm guessing there's some taper to the bores? if it's not too bad (within .002-.003") you may get away with honing only. That'll save some machining expense and possible pistons if yours are still good. Grind Crankshaft $75 - Is there something wrong with the crank? If the journals measure up OK, and aren't damaged, I'd just polish them with some 320 grit emery cloth and go with it. Grind valves $75 - A necessity Install valve guides $75 - Good idea if they're worn. They should only be 3$-4$ a piece plus the labor quoted. Install cam bearings $35 - A necessity Re-bush rods and align $25 - Wrist pin bushings good idea... alignment - sounds like that's just part of reconditioning the rods for him. Are you having them assemble it too? If so he'll probably insist on the things I'd let go since he'll have to back up his work. If I was doing the assemble on my own (like I recently did) I probably wouldn't grind the crank unless needed, and the same goes for the boring. If the bores aren't tapered too much, I'd just hone them and go. That's my opinion anyway. Good luck with it. Merle

Don, Here's another parking option for you. Be sure to read the letter that goes with the pic A LETTER FROM MY WIFE........ ? To my darling husband Before you return from your golf trip I just want to let you know about the small accident I had with the pick up truck when I turned into the driveway. Fortunately not to bad and I really didn't get hurt, so please don't worry too much about me. I was coming home from Wal-Mart, and when I turned into the driveway I accidentally pushed down on the accelerator instead of the brake. The garage door is slightly bent but the pick up fortunately came to a halt when it bumped into your car. I am really sorry but I know with your kind hearted personality you will forgive me. You know how much I love you and care for you my sweet heart. I cannot wait to hold you in my arms again. Your loving wife.

You have to have the "show signitures" check box checked, in the Control Panel Options area, to be able to see your signiture. By the way, when I click on your Car Domain link I can't get in. Merle

I just read a nice write up on this topic yesterday on Stovebolt.com. It had the wiring diagrams for Signal Stat 700 and 900 series, which is different from yours... However, he also has a good description on how to figure out which wire is which if your switch is different than the Signal Stat models. Check it out http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/turn_signal.htm Merle

Are you sure that'll be big enough for your "Fleet"?

There are 2 ways that I've found. 1st way; in the "Message" box where you type in your text there is a tool bar at the top. One of these is used to "Insert" a photo into your post. This will be a large picture in the post. When you click the "Insert" button it opens up a small window asking for the URL where the picture is located. If you have photos on a site such as Photobucket or something similar, copy the URL for your pic in the space provided. 2nd way; Below the "Message" box you will find a button labeled "Manage Attachments". If you click this it will open a small window where you can either creat a link to another site containing your photos, or you can upload a pic directly from your computer. This option will create a "Thumbnail" of the photo in your post. Other users can then click on your Thumbnail to see a larger version. I hope this helps

I think what I like most on this new format is when using multiple computers. Before, the post that I had read on my computer at work would be shown as "New" posts on my home computer, because I hadn't viewed them yet on that 'puter. So I'd have to tru to remember which ones I had already read, or just quickly go through them all to be sure I didn't miss one. Now, once I'm logged in it remembers ME, not my computer. The posts I've read here at work show the same once I"m at home. I love it. Great change GTK.

Ray, According to my parts book (CD) here are the part numbers for the king pins for a B2B P/N 642680 for Up To S/N 82182127 P/N 127402 for After S/N 82182127 I'd say you have the later version Merle

Here's another good 'ol add that was sent to me via email.

Thanks again Norm.

Thanks Norm, That's the story of my live, a day late and a dollar short:D I missed you post regarding the diff or I'd probably been all over that one. Anyone else have a spare diff?

Great idea Ed. I was wondering if the car diffs were compatable. I have a 3/4 ton truck, but the axles were the same as the 1/2 tons, I believe. What donor car supplied your diff?

I agree Ian. Even for us here in the States it is nice to see a persons location to get an idea where we all are.

Thanks Ed, I'll have to make up new bolts too, since I had to cut the old ones to get the spare tire down, so that's not an issue. I figured it would work. I'm glad to hear that it does. Merle

Charles, Might that be a B1PW chassis? Didn't the PW model relate to Power Wagon, or 4 Wheel Drive?

That's a nice looking truck, Ed. You don't need to be ashamed to hang out with us.

That piece shouldn't even contact the tire. The tire goes up against the larger rear cross member.

I HOPE to be painting it this weekend. I have a little more clean up to do first, but if all goes well this week it'll be ready. That's the goal anyway. Once that's done I can set the engine and trans back in. I fired up my rebuilt engine for the first time this past Friday. (It purrs nicely) After that, brakes and body work. It's a long road, but at least I feel like I'm getting somewhere now. Merle

Here is a current photo from yesterday and (if it works) one from when I first got it home. It's a '50 B2C

I suppose I'll take the new forum out for a test drive with this question too. Near the rear of the frame, there is a small, U shaped, cross member. I believe it's only fuction is for the spare tire carrier. This piece is installed with the "U" up, so it fills with debris. Could this piece be installed with the "U" down without any adverse effects? As I see it, the only change would be to use a longer bolt for the tire hanger. At least that way it wouldn't be a 2" wide x 1" high x 4' long dirt tray anymore. Merle