Merle Coggins

That would be from a ‘50 or later column shift truck.

Have you measured the resistance values of the new sender over the full range of movement? It should be around 10 Ohms at the full position and around 90 Ohms at empty. It sounds as though the resistance values may be reversed and too low.

Plymouth? Dodge? DeSoto? Chrysler? Ford? Pontiac? Packard? ...

That was my thought too...

The B3 series were manufactured in ‘51 and ‘52. Yours may have been a late ‘52 production that was sold and titled in ‘53, thus reflecting that on the title. This was common back then. Many states used the year of purchase as the model year on the title. My B2C was built in December of 1950, near the end of B2 production, likely purchased in spring of 1951, and the title says it’s a ‘51. I still refer to it as a ‘50 though as it makes more sense to us Pilot-House junkies that a B2C would be a 1950 model.

Reminds me of this…

Have you tried a little throttle, or adjusting up the idle screw a few turns? Sometimes the idle circuit isn’t quite right and won’t allow the engine to idle properly, but a little throttle will get it running on the main jet. Or, a faulty ignition switch will supply ignition voltage when in crank position, but will drop it when you release to the run position.

Nice… I recommend Quiet Ride Solutions for headliner and such. https://www.quietride.com/index.html

If it’s a 3 speed it’s out of an earlier (‘49 or earlier) truck. That’s fine as long as it performs as required and you’re happy with it.

Good looking truck, from the outside. Is it roadworthy? You imply there is still some work that it needs. We’re here to help.

A B3B, if equipped with a 3 speed, would have column shift. A 4 speed would be floor shift. It seems that either someone has replaced the column at some time, or replaced the trans.

Did you readjust the brake shoes after replacing the wheel cylinders? It sounds like there may be too much clearance. You can pump them out with a couple of pumps, but then when you let them fully return you need to pump them back out to get good contact again.

That’s the shift linkage. There should be a shift lever connected at the top. Has your truck been converted to a floor shift trans?

My previous daily driver, F150, would eat through the outer pad on the left front for no apparent reason. I even replaced the caliper and it would still do it. I would go through 2 or 3 outer pads before the rest would need to be replaced. I never figured out why it did that. Then that truck got wrecked last summer and I got a new truck... Problem gone...

Airlines fly people to California every day... Just need to plan it as a destination vacation... That's how I've been out there a couple of times.

I have 235/75R-15 Yokohama Geolanders on my truck with 15 X 5-1/2" rims. I found them to be the most reasonably priced tires at the time and they have done quite well over the years. I wouldn't say that they have a bias ply look to them, but I've been happy with them.

I figured they'd have plenty from here so I didn't go hunting for one. I guess I'll have to be on the lookout now.

Hey... I resemble that remark... ? (although I've never owned, nor worn, a cheese head hat) I've always known Cheese Head Screws as a slotted head machine screw with a thick head. I've also seen Allen wrenches referred to as Hex Keys, and their associated bolts as 'socket head screws/bolts'.

I missed that it was a front wheel, so the smaller size makes sense. A Channel Lock/slip joint pliers is the go-to tool for the front nut, as they usually aren’t all that tight. If it has a lock nut that is too tight for pliers, use a chisel and hammer against one of the points to break it loose (reverse for tightening). Once the lock nut is off the inner nut should come off easy.

8 sided hub nut sockets are still available through many tool suppliers. Check with OTC. I got one of theirs for a 1 ton project. I did a quick search. It seems the smallest octagon socket they have is 2-3/8" Are you sure of the size of your wheel bearing nuts? I believe the 1 ton truck rear hubs require a 2-9/16 socket. OTC 1905, like this on on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O845XQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

That's a standard "good practice" for any snap ring. Due to the way they are stamped out of a larger sheet of material it leaves a rounded edge on one side and a sharper edge on the other side. Always put the sharp edge side so that any thrust load will press it against the groove. It gives slightly more surface area to hold the ring in place against thrust force.

Mine had the same thing. Even the replacement tailgate I acquired had them. The holes are still there. It seemed to be a common "upgrade" of that time.

Mark, Maybe you need a little more ‘bling’ on the back of your truck when your out driving around… especially at night. ?

For the reason you mentioned, DO NOT attach the belts to the frame.

Any of my photos from old threads are likely gone as I’ve closed out my Photobucket account due to reasons discussed in another forum thread. For the upper mount I figured out where I wanted it and drilled the hole. I also drilled 2 smaller holes above and below the bolt hole. I then carefully lowered the anchor plate down inside the B-pillar, attached to a wire, until I could line up the anchor to the bolt hole. I ran a bolt in to hold it in place while I plug welded it to the B-pillar through the 2 smaller holes. If your cab is already painted you could probably drill and tap the anchor plate to use machine screws, in place of my plug welds, to hold them in place.