JBNeal

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If right rear is locking up, left rear is probably not engaging fully. Brake spring should only be for brake shoe retracting, I think the different holes were for different applications where there might be wheel cylinder interference. As long as the spring is partially extended when installed while the shoes are pulled all the way in, the shoes will have the spring's resisting force to overcome when brake fluid pressure is applied to the wheel cylinders. The one piece spring should hook over each shoe, not sure why one spring end is hooked behind the shoe.

When I post photos now, I have a procedure that gets kinda involved but utilizes my current hardware and software. The handy camera phone takes the pictures that I then move onto my (ancient) laptop hard drive to allow me to organize into folders, which is also backed up on my Norton cloud account. I can then downsize the pictures I want to add to my attachment quota by using MS Photo Editor, typically taking a 3 MB jpg down to <200kb. I then have to get a reliable signal on my wireless modem to upload the downsized pics from my laptop to my attachment quota, which I can then add to a post. I had tried several years ago, before giving PB a shot at hosting, to post pics in the gallery as that could be organized into albums, then use that as a source to imbed pics in posts, but that did not work. My problem with the My Attachments is that pics cannot be organized into albums or folders for faster recall than looking at each attachment to see if what I want to reference in a post has already been saved...I have recently discovered several duplicate pics in my quota that I need to clean up to maximize my storage. Since the online store has become available, every year I send some of my bday $$$ to support this site as I feel the amount is a usage fee for contributing to the site database as well as using its information and accompanying storage. If this kind of subscription allowed for attachment organization into albums or folders, I would be interested in subscribing. I have no need for photobucket outside of this site, and could migrate photos onto this site's storage to update posts as I've already had to do.

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Does this have anything to do with forum members paying an annual fee?

Yep, that bolt should be 7/16"...I only eyeballed the '52 rolling chassis and it has gr.8 bolts in there, which should have been a clue that something was not right...crawled under the '48, '49, '51 and '53, and they all have 7/16" bolts...sorry for the confusion, I'll blame it on the chigger bites in unmentionable places that are slowly driving me nutty ?

With vent door pivot offset and behind the vent opening, the door should make contact with the entire gasket almost simultaneously, allowing the lever cam lock to make the positive seal. Ya might try loosening the bracket mounting bolts, closing the door, then torquing the fasteners, then check to see if the door will open and close properly...if that doesn't work, it might be time to remove mounting bolts to see how far off the mounting holes are when the door is closed.

Depending on your device OS, click on the upper right screen corner (either your username or the 3-horizontal bar "hamburger")...a drop down menu should have an option for Account then choose My Attachments, or a drop down menu will show the My Attachments option under the CONTENT options...the My Attachments screen will have a status bar of your storage usage of your Attachments Quota. To the right of each attachment in storage is a box that can be checked, allowing multiple files to be deleted. If you delete the attachment from your attachment quota, wherever it is linked will no longer display the image. You can then go back to whatever posts that you want to modify or update by clicking the 3 dots at the upper right of the post, which will activate the drop down menu giving the option to Edit.

when it come to wheel cylinders, just because they look similar to what you need does not necessarily mean that they are the same as critical dimensions can vary on different applications. Replacements almost all come from china and stories about their quality sounds like that is a gamble. additional information - brake sleeving testimonial additional information - parts manual Interchange additional information - brake drum replacement

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I did some work on the money pit recently, and had thought about doing a write-up on seat variations that I observed and findings that I had researched, but realized this is not a high priority topic for such in-depth analysis. The brief summary is that there are 3 basic seat designs that vary on seat spring design, bottom and back mounting, and the Air-O-Ride option, with optional seat padding, and upholstery colors that Bunn has adequately described. I could not find the part number in the parts book, but the seat control tag appears to be a B-1 / B-2 only application as the B-3 / B-4 cabs do not have the mounting holes in the header.. The 1948 Dodge Pilot-House poster shows the variety of improvements made for the B-series...here is the advertised seat detail: I have a few busted driver side coil springs that need repair, but studying the seat anatomies shows that there may be a way to fix these by moving coils around on the frame, kinda like flipping a mattress over. Oddly enough, coil spring design changed between seat designs, so I cannot really rob a B-3 spring to fix a B-1 seat or vice versa. Another small detail that changed was how the seat covers were held onto the frame. I made the mistake back in '05 by having a local upholstery guy recover the seat in the '49; he tossed the original cover remnants and used hog rings in place of the original frame clips. Apparently, the '48 bone seat cover was a kit from 1968 installed over the original brown; both have experienced excessive rodent exposure and need to be burned. Their anatomy of burlap and cotton padding match the advertisement and can be replaced with modern synthetic materials.

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I have painted this water pump with Rustoleum primer + aluminum, ran it for years, still looks shiny ?

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The rear motor mount bolt should be 1/2 7/16" x 3-1/2". The bellhousing bracket bolts should be 1/2" x 2-1/2" but with a shank long enough to go through the casting and bracket. I was able to source what I needed from a local bolt supplier, but ya might need to get a longer bolt to get the right shank, may or may not need to trim off excess...or use extra flat washers as spacers.

Bondo is not for internal use, only for sheet metal repairs. If your pump backing plate is that rough, your impeller may be not far behind. Replacing that backing plate may be an option by fabricating a new one out of similar thickness steel. By comparison, Gates #42554 replacement pumps have zinc-plated backing plates to deal with this issue. additional information - water pumps

If ya have carbon accumulating above the tailpipe on the sheet metal, I believe that is burned oil or excess gasoline in the exhaust, but that looks like a haze and not a splatter.

That's one slick looking buggy...I don't think we ever stop working on these things, so enjoy the ride in between the tasks

I enjoyed driving my old buggies around and would chew the fat with those interested in them...but I had to use my diplomacy skills on more than one occasion when approached by tire kicking vultures who were so enamored with my rides that they wanted to buy them, but only for scrap metal price, then wanted to make me feel bad when I balked at such a poorly negotiated low-ball offer. It was annoying, I got cussed at a few times by these a-wipes, but I kept my cool and stayed polite, even when I would tell them that their unsolicited offers would only make a fraction of the down payment for my licensed and registered rides. A couple of weeks ago I had 2 old blankety blanks roll up to the house, one was a self-proclaimed body man of 30yrs who wanted to buy the doors off of one of my trucks sitting by the house cuz his project had some rust damage to the skin...I tried to converse with that old bstrd about the project he was working on, but he quickly got short with me and stomped off before I could offer some spare doors I had at another location...bless his heart

Everything that I have read has pointed me towards 8:1 CR, 2bbl carb, split exhaust manifold for a definite bump in hp, as these improvements were noticeably done on later big truck flatheads...running a PCV setup with a 180°F thermostat helps keep engine compartment fumes to a minimum and reduce sludge formation, which kinda helps sustain those hp improvements ?

After the backing plate is removed, a flat bar with a hole drilled in it can be placed on the axle shaft, held in place with the axle nut, and a hammer can be used on that flat bar to knock the shaft out of the carrier...tho I believe the shop manual shows a special puller that threads onto the axle shaft and pushes against the axle housing flange. The tapered axles that I have dismantled had enough wear and were still lubricated so they came apart with little effort.

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if ya really want to save some big bucks, skip the lockwashers and tighten the nuts so that three bolt threads are visible, then hammer the end of the bolt to mushroom the threads out...that oughta keep that nut from going anywhere, and look at all the $$$ ya save

Start with the lowest pressure widest spread, working in small circles and back-n-forth manner to break the crud surface rather than trying to blast bug chunks off at a time...in other words, let the water pressure chip away at the crud, this keeps debris from going everywhere and any other damage that might result. Incrementally increase pressure / reduce spread to wear down stubborn accumulations. Preferably do the work on concrete, have a shovel on the ready to scoop up crud to fling at the bratty neighbor kids. Definitely protect yer peepers and feet, be prepared to strip down before stepping back into the house to prevent making a bigger mess. Water pressure alone works well on removing crud, the cleaners only work well on the last little surface films that are left after the big stuff is removed