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About Mertz

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 01/31/1952

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Reardan, WA
  • Interests
    Wood working, fly fishing, my vineyard, making wine, my cars, gardening and my cat
  • My Project Cars
    1940 Plymouth truck, 49 Studebaker Champion, 68 Corvair, 72 Chevy C20 pickup, 1974.5 Datsun 260Z and 1995 Ford F-250 power stroke

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Born in the Netherlands and grew up in Southern California
  • Occupation
    Retired architect


  • Location
    Reardan, WA
  • Interests
    Fly fishing, old cars, wine making, gardening, wood working and my vineyard

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  1. I completely cleaned my bell housing and painted with grey appliance epoxy. It fills in some off the roughness of the casting. First a light coat, then a medium coat followed by a pretty heavy coat. You can really see it smooth out when applying the last coat.
  2. Chassis Saver suggests topcoat within 6 to 8 hours or wait till cured and scuff sand before the top coat. I was hoping not to scuff sand and apply within the time frame when the CS was still tacky. I have had wrinkles when not waiting long enough for an additional coat and don’t want that on the big frame section which would require a lot of work to correct in some hard spots to sand.
  3. The satin would hide some of the imperfections. I don’t want to over restore the truck. I am smoothing out all the small parts just because I can. I did most of the parts this winter before I could do any painting. You are correct when you say most of it will be covered not seen and not exposed to UV. I think I’ll let it age over the winter and see how it looks in the spring. I do have to get more paint for the front. If I don’t like the finish in the spring I will use the satin on the front and recoat the back. It would have been smoother if I could spray it.
  4. I just finished putting on another coat and it took less paint and I reduced it to much thinner consistently. I know I probably missed some places on the second coat. It doesn’t look as bad as yesterday but still the gloss shows up all the imperfections. The tech data says the chassis saver holds up very well against all the corrosive liquids (10 out of 10) so I don’t want to paint something less resistive over it. However if the top coat peels off I still have the good paint underneath.
  5. I’ve spent a lot of time getting my frame ready to paint. Saturday and Sunday I did the final prep work sanding and wiping down with a naphta/xylene mix. Monday I applied a coat of Chassis Saver. It went on pretty thick. I did not use a reducer. I brushed it on and it took about half a quart. I only did the rear half of the frame. Reading the tech data I probably should have gotten the antique satin which does not fad while the gloss eventually turns grey. I now want to top coat it with a satin black. I’ve seen acrylic enamel recommended and a suggested drying time of 6 to 8 hours to top coa
  6. Thanks guys. I will the copper sealant and leave the 4 bolts loose until the manifolds are properly seated. Still will probably use grade 8 bolts because of the coating on them.
  7. I’m getting ready to install the exhaust and intake manifolds. I have brass nuts which I assume will limit the amount of torque I can use to snug them down. Are there torque specs for the brass nuts and the tapered nuts? Also the bolts that bolt the two manifolds together need to be replaced. Should I use stainless steel bolts or grade 8? Do I apply anti seize on the studs? Thanks
  8. Well you know what they say when you assume. You make an ass out of u and me. Rotated the crank and got the piston down to the bottom and got a measurement of 4.437”. The piston is in the hole 0.030”. The final cylinder volume is 609cc. The camber is 115cc so CR is 5.295. Total cubic inches is 222.96ci with the 40 overbore. Thanks everyone for straightening me out.
  9. The 1938 and 1939 Canadian made 201 had a 3 3/8” bore and 3 3/4” stroke. The 1928 and 1929 had a 3 3/8” bore and a 3 7/8” stroke in the 208. The numbers are posted on wikizero.com. I have the engine at TDC and measured the cylinders that were down and took the measurements from the deepest one. I assume that at TDC at least one cylinder is at the bottom of its stroke. https://www.wikizero.com/en/Chrysler_flathead_engine
  10. Did the chamber volume check as described above. Used a glass plate but could not drill a hole in it so I used the spark plug hole to fill it. I ended up with 110ml or 110cc. I calculated the piston drop at 5cc for 115cc. So that works out to 4.356 CR. Still to low. If I shave the head I can add about 0.7 for a total of around 5. Pop up pistons would be easiest if I want a little more CR. Up 1/8” is probably all I’d want.
  11. I did find some info on shorter stroke engines having 3 3/4” strokes. These where built around 1927 to 1930. I think some are Canadian. My guess is that since this was used as a stationary engine someone wanted efficiency and high revs. They must have found a short throw crank somewhere. I will I’ll recheck the head volume by putting an old gasket on the head set in sealant the a metal plate on top of that also set in sealant. I will then camp everything together and fill the chamber. I have a 60cc syringe I will use to add water.
  12. Yes I need to use something more accurate. I used a calibrated wine testing tube calibrated in ml. I thought the gasket volume was to high as well. I think I’ll put on the head with the old gasket and try it that way. I was getting some capillary doming on the head test. What are other people getting for combustion chamber volume? I think it is still going to be low given the short stroke.
  13. Do they make domed pistons for my flathead? Or pop up pistons.
  14. Do they make domed pistons for my flathead?
  15. I just did the calcs and because the stroke is so short I get a CR of 3.27:1. That is unacceptable. Volume on top is 152.9cc and cylinder volume is 501cc.
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