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Mertz

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    115
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About Mertz

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 01/31/1952

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Reardan, WA
  • Interests
    Wood working, fly fishing, my vineyard, making wine, my cars, gardening and my cat
  • My Project Cars
    1940 Plymouth truck, 49 Studebaker Champion, 68 Corvair, 72 Chevy C20 pickup, 1974.5 Datsun 260Z and 1995 Ford F-250 power stroke

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Born in the Netherlands and grew up in Southern California
  • Occupation
    Retired architect

Converted

  • Location
    Reardan, WA
  • Interests
    Fly fishing, old cars, wine making, gardening, wood working and my vineyard

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  1. That hex bolt and a tapered slotted screw also need to be removed to remove the motor mount plate. To get to all the bolts to remove the motor mount plate you have to remove the pan, timing change cover and timing chain. Thanks for the picture. I don’t think I’ll mess with the o-ring seals. The gaskets should cover the hole.
  2. I need to take another look since I have both the motor mount plate, timing chain cover and the oil pan off. A picture would help a lot.
  3. I’m getting ready to reinstall my oil pan and have new gaskets. I know to keep the ones over the mains a bit short so they will meet the main gasket correctly. I don’t understand the instructions which say to cut the o-rings and place them near the mains. Do these go in the gap between the two gaskets or in the corner? I had planned on some sealant there. I used gasket cinch on all my gaskets.
  4. I’m using rustoleum rattle can appliance paint. So far I have had good results with and without primer. I don’t know about durability. I like using the instructions which they don’t recommend primer which is my concern about final finish and durability. Primer to me can and can’t be a weak point. Epoxy and self etching primer seem to be the best for first contact with bare metal.
  5. The beauty of the appliance paint it can go directly on to bare metal. If I have to prime before filling with glazing putty then I have to use self etching primer which can’t be painted over directly. That means several coats of high build primer sanding and a sealer primer before applying the top coat. I’m testing to see if there are any problems applying appliance paint over primer. I will also test the back side of a panel using appliance paint then glazing putty followed by the final coats of paint. One light coat of paint putty then another 2 light coats and a medium to heavy coat. The ap
  6. As you may know I have discovered the benefits of using appliance paint on my small parts because of the spray pattern and flow characteristics. I’m now working on an inner fender panel that had some rust pitting. I removed the old paint with a wire wheel on my angle grinder and 60 grit on my random orbital sander. I tried paint stripper on the other side but it barely touched it so I hand to grind that side too. I then wiped it down with Kleen-strip concrete and metal prep (phosphoric acid). It turn the rust black but raised it as well. I sanded those area to uncover more brown rust so I wipe
  7. I have to say I’m not that confident in the part but it must not have to many problems or they wouldn’t still be selling them. The stuff does mill easily. Boring the holes for 5/8” bolts was pretty easy with a step drill. 7/16” bolts were a bit loose and in the bracket and the frame. 5/8” is just right and a little stronger.
  8. I have had good experience with them. Calling them and talking about what I need he knows exactly what the part is. He has on record that I’m working on a 40 Plymouth truck so he won’t let me miss order parts. I only wish he had pictures of all the parts, some don’t have them.
  9. I always check with Roberts when ordering to make sure I get the right part. I miss ordered once on line. Ever since I’ve been calling in my orders
  10. I’m going to use it but I think I’ll order the other side from Roberts. I ordered from DCM because they are quite a bit cheaper for this part.
  11. DCM just got back to me. They say it’s a “high strength zinc material”. Though some Zinc alloys can be very strong, overall stainless steel is stronger. However, zinc is a heavy element, and when alloyed with other metals it provides better corrosion resistance, stability, dimensional strength and impact strength. ... Ultimately, which alloy to use will depend on your casting needs.
  12. It’s soft, pretty sure it is aluminum.
  13. My cow magnet does not stick to it.
  14. I ordered a passenger side rear shackle bracket from DCM and what I got was an aluminum bracket. Has anyone used the aluminum bracket? If I do I will need to protect it from the steel frame to prevent electrolysis. Also the tap for the grease fitting does not fit a standard 1/4” grease fitting.
  15. I have been doing some research and testing several types of paint for my accessories. I’m not happy with the VHT epoxy chassis paint. It does not have much of a shine and does not go on very well. I do like the harbor freight chassis and grill paint. It has better shine and goes on a bit better. I used some rustoleum almond appliance paint on my remote oil filter and was very impressed with the shine and application. It is an epoxy paint that has a long drying time so it has time to flow out. I picked up a can of appliance gloss black and sprayed my backing plates. One I had already painted w
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