JBNeal

additional information - hand crank supplier additional information - hand crank dimensions reading an entire thread on a subject can be quite illuminating...and fun!

there's a non-slip surface that's used on outdoor stair treads, boats, and small airplane wings ?

The last few years of the K-car platform minivans were good ones, with the refined ride + V6, good all-around visibility, ease of entry, and utility with the rear seat(s) removed. Keeping one in good running condition is worthwhile for its utility alone, with the load height lower than a full size pickup, it can haul a lot of stuff and easier to load and unload, especially if you're not going off-road.

My heat transfer studies learned me that the thermostat eventually stays open in certain conditions as coolant is flowing non-stop to the heat exchanger. At this point, the mass of the engine begins to reach a steady state temperature, and the lubricant begins to act as a coolant. This is why most diesel engines have relatively large crankcase lubricant capacities, as they are pulling double duty for maximum engine performance and reliability.

is there any difference in performance when ya disable the ad blocker?

I had a conversation with some relatives just after my grandmother's recent passing about her '88 camry, as it has some problems and her thrifty nature meant that car was not properly maintained. A few non-mechanic relatives believe it'd be good basic transportation with a little TLC, I countered with the difficulties of dealing with OBD1, which left everyone in the conversation all deer-in-headlights, and recommended calling the local pick-n-pull to come get it since it hasn't started in years. If that car had been maintained, I would not hesitate to tinker with it, but I would rather not waste time and $$$ on a lost cause decades-old economy car...in this case, it might need a starter, catalytic converter, O2 sensors + spark plugs, a set of tires, and a transmission ?

pics or it didn't happen

I was able to get my build cards from CHS a few weeks before things in Michigan went on lockdown...the last I heard from CHS, the archive is off limits until further notice due to covid-19. I had sent my build cards to Kevin Clause to decipher over a year ago, but between the Michigan lockdown, his work schedule, dealing with family business, and his records packed away for safekeeping, he did not know when he could crack them codes. I had a good conversation years ago about making those records public similar to what Eric Bannerman has done with his SN decoder, but the short answer is that would be a massive undertaking that could be done but not in one day.

Sticky EGR valves and broken thermostats do weird things on OBD1

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bed line is applying the brush-on rubberized bedliner in a can...just my opinion, but if the truck parts cannot be seen when assembled, clean them thoroughly and coat with a sealing primer + paint like Rustoleum if they have surface rust, at a minimum treat with something like Ospho.

There is probably a specification somewhere in the shop manual but with the valve spring removed, I would rock the valve back and forth, and if it rattled around, it was too worn...usually there are several worn at a time, so I just do them all to keep them matched...the last time I replaced valve guides, the valves were also visibly worn, so those were replaced too. I had new valve + guide combos sitting on the shelf, so the new vs old comparison was striking on my last rebuild. Cannot remember where I read it, but found that if valve spring surfaces are not smooth, such as having rust spots from extended period of disuse, then the springs are weakened and need replacing.

I have never replaced a spark plug gasket...if anything, the plug seals to the head with a layer of carbon, and from my observations, the gasket appears to keep the plug from digging into the head when torqued.

Those compression numbers look good, so I repeat my original assessment that oil may be getting through worn valve guides.

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additional information - lug nut comparison This was how I started looking into this topic when I noticed a part number change in the parts manual...took quite a bit of digging to find the right information that was current.

asked and answered

as alluded to in the linked post, your starter situation was something I experienced in 2005 with the 1-ton just before that little clutch busted, and was very lucky to get home unassisted cuz that was a few weeks before I finally broke down and got my 1st cell phone...not so much a need to use the search function as me remembering how close a call that was to having an embarrassing problem while enjoying the weather in my buggy on my day off ?

I believe the problem with heavier oils is that they have higher surface tension, causing them to more readily cling to the cellulose membrane and basically ball up, which can cause too much airflow restriction. SAE 50 is suited for this task since its lower surface tension allows it to drain back from the cellulose membrane faster than gear oils, especially in colder weather.

SAE 50 is required for good reason, as it is heavy enough to not slosh around onto the engine but light enough to capture air contaminants. I have used store brand SAE 50 for decades for this purpose, which is much cheaper than racing oil. Overfilling the housing will restrict air flow through the cellulose membrane, as it only should act as a wick of sorts to drain contaminated oil back into the sump. The base gasket also helps the clamp secure the housing to the carburetor, eliminating most vibrations caused by the engine. Excessive vibrations, especially if the sump has too light of oil, will cause too much oil to migrate into the cellulose membrane, which will restrict air flow into the carburetor. One thing to look at is the throat of the carburetor...if it is too oily, then too much sump oil is getting through the cellulose membrane. Normal is to wipe your finger around the throat and have a pencil lead width line of oil present...if the throat is wet with oil, that's a problem. This seems like a lot of work, but I can tell you that my only air filter costs since initial startup is buying a quart of SAE 50 at Advance Auto every 3 years or so...a trick I learned was to drain the sump oil into a clear glass jar every spring until I could see crud flowing out...whatever oil was in the sump then was used to resurface the end of the driveway, so roughly the top half of the sump oil was clean enough to reuse. Since this wasn't a daily driver, this worked out well, and I could spend my savings on a trip to Dairy Queen ?

additional information - air filter gasket replacement When ya say you cleaned the air cleaner, what method did ya use? ?

Following up on this issue is much appreciated by users who might run into a similar problem ?

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Mopar 1238415 Cleveland type universal joint Recent reproductions put the grease zerk in the center, which is next to impossible to access when servicing without dismantling the driveshaft, but even those are coming up in short supply