JBNeal

FWIW the fuel gauge isn't dampened so fuel sloshing around in the tank registers as a busy needle...with practice you can kinda decipher how much range ya have left when the needle settles around E longer. I would not top off the tank if I knew that I would not be driving it alot, as most of my driving was done on country back roads. Refueling required a trip to town, which I would need to plan ahead to maximize my errand running...although there were summertime occasions when I had to drive into town to get gas for the truck, so I grabbed all the lawnmower gas cans to justify the trip, and grabbed a bite at a local choke'n'puke since I was nearby

Before there was a Low Fuel Warning Light, they had fuel gauges that would register E when there was a few gallons left. I adjusted my float arms to read E at about 3 gallons cuz there's a hill to climb to get back to my place, and without tank baffles, having less than 3 gallons in the tank transformed me into a pedestrian on more than one occasion.

HOLLYWOOD: 3-window B-series on Heartbreak Ridge

If that crankshaft is in a position where pistons are near TDC or BDC, then the crankshaft might be fighting any attempts to drive the pistons loose as the connecting rods have no mechanical advantage in the vertical position. Getting the crankshaft out of the way removes this restriction, though that is easier said than done. Another alternative to the MMO-style mix is DOT 3 brake fluid...itsa mess but it may make the magic happen

Kinda looks like the repro dud has different bend radius and break lines than the original...profile looks different too...all hallmarks of outsourced craftsmanship, where "close enough ship it" are words spoken up and down the totem pole...SAD

mixed messages on display back in the day 👀

Tuckers getting eyeballed on the street

That linked thread touches on some good pointers, as the inexperienced flathead engine rebuilder might miss some details on these timing chain covers. The cover sheet metal needs to be checked for damage that needs to be corrected prior to reinstalling, as the flanges can be tweaked and the seal plane can get caved in from improper seal installation. Centering the cover seal on the crankshaft also requires care as there is some wiggle room here that can lead to leaks. I recall hearing about some seal leaks that were caused by that oil tube pointed at the seal instead of the chain sprocket, with various opinions as to how that could happen. So care needs to be exercised at each step of the rebuild, as getting in a hurry and cutting corners can lead to an expensive lesson.

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-1or2 on the FB

Leather seal + oil slinger combo was replaced by the rubber lip seal because the manufacturing technology improved, making the rubber seals cheaper and more reliable than leather seals. Leather seals are still available in certain applications where oil is under low pressure, but opt for the rubber as leather requires oil contact to stay pliable; sitting for long periods will dry out the leather, leading to premature failure. A problem with the older seal technology was that as the seal material aged, it became harder and less pliable. This would lead to a small groove wearing into the sealing surface that a new seal would not make adequate contact with, leading to leaks. Speedi-sleeve is your friend when this happens.

A full tank of fresh gasoline should give a little head pressure at the mechanical fuel pump inlet, that can help...if'n ya got a substantial amount of old gas without fuel stabilizer, that gas will not fire unless the engine is spinning fast. One trick I learned on stock 6V is to disconnect the voltage regulator and start the engine on a 12V battery to get the starter to spin faster. Kill the engine once it fires on 12V, reconnect VR and 6V battery, then attempt to start on the stock setup. If your '49 has original battery cables, it might be time to replace them as that could be contributing to slowed starter cranking speed.

I ordered a copy of Bunn's C-series Trucks Restoration Guide awhile back for research purposes, and learned a few things from it. The C-1 was an evolution of the B-series, but the C-3 was a step backwards in styling...it does not make much sense to invest in design and tooling for a truck cab and doors to only be in production for less than 2 years... there wasn't anything wrong with the original design, but marketing direction followed the competition with the forward look fad...the result was leaky doors and windshields that rotted out cabs, and the subsequent D-series corrected these issues by designing cabs with raked windshield lines similar to the B-series and C-1. The C-series had trim badges on the front fenders for Custom, Custom Regal, and DeLuxe. No hood ornament was installed at the factory; a ram head medallion or a V8 badge were on the nose of the hood center, just above the DODGE badge atop the grille opening. If you're seeing a ram hood ornament on this basement prospect, it might've been borrowed from an older truck or car.

Deciding which is better is like asking me to choose between Mom's peach cobbler and Mom's german chocolate cake...both are decadent winners !! 🏆 Tucker two tone, aft view

Tucker two tone

Could large crescent wrenches clamped onto them flanges be used to tweak the cross members as required?

Your understanding is correct; the only advantage to switching to synthetic oil on an older engine is that your wallet will become lighter, which may be helpful when attempting to escape the wraith of an ornery swarm of bees 🐝 the most cost effective approach on older engines is to use a store brand non-racing oil, a quality filter (not fram), and a minimum of annual change...even the original shop manuals said to change annually at a minimum, especially with engines not equipped with a filter.

VINTAGEPIC: saw this C-3 milk truck on the FB...looks like them hooligans are up to some shenanigans

https://p15-d24.com/links/category/11-enginemechanicalnos-parts/

My rule of thumb is not to invest in a 10+ yr old economy car of any make...I've learned this the hard way, spending waaay too many resources on buggies with very little return other than learning eventually to not repeat this mistake...their emissions equipment and electronics are not the most robust in the world, and replacement costs (if available) are budget busters IMO. I've worked on enough of these economy cars to recognize where the manufacturers take the value out of the original design to improve profitability and ensure planned obsolescence. The tote-the-note car lots are littered with these money pits, and I advise ppl to stay away from older cheaper rides because they don't make'm like they once did...I had a cranky coworker lecture me on the economic advantages of owning a beater, but when I pointed out the electronic and emissions related issues, he just blurted out FAKE NEWS with his dismissive hand wave and kept on living in his alternate reality...bless his heart

how'bout some vintage chevrolet stainless sun visor trim 👈 https://shafersclassic.com/i-22628475-1955-1958-chevrolet-full-size-sun-visor-trim.html

TOOLBOX ARSENAL: metric adjustable wrench QuadCab key for scale