JBNeal

additional information - engine color list from Don Bunn's Restoration Guide

Excerpt from the C-1 shop manual:

additional information - flathead valve spring compressor

Tucker finish line

That head needs to come off to inspect them combustion chambers before investing more resources into that engine...valves may be stuck, pistons might be stuck, or there could be a rat's nest in one of them bores 👀

additional information - engine block coolant flush anecdotes

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-3 long bed on the FB

as The Black Knight infamously said, TIS BUT A SCRATCH...that'll buff out 😁

Here is the wiper switch with the knob and bezel removed. The bezel screws onto the switch body threaded shaft; the knob presses onto the switch split smooth shaft. Pictured is the small screwdriver blade that I used to pry that knob off of that smooth shaft, as it is a tight fit that gets tighter when dirt accumulates up in there. Ya might need to wiggle this knob back and forth while prying upwards, but don't get in a big hurry or go all HULK SMASH on this knob as it is pot metal...the first knob that I tried to pry off back in the 90s crumbled to chunks 👀

Maybe Dodge realized that it was a problem in preproduction so it was mandated that the heater option was dealer installed...I've worked with at least one OEM that knew when to kick the can down the road...if'n ya had the fresh air package installed, you'd definitely be taking things apart to adjust them valves

I am all for exploring the solar system, but I'm kinda wondering how come traveling on this planet has not been completely conquered yet...Arctic and Antarctic trips are still considered treacherous and too arduous...that kinda technology might transfer to transiting lunar or martian landscapes...how'bout making traveling to the poles a priority over lunar golfing expeditions 🤔

Before the advent of zinc plated hardware, I reckon that the engineers relied upon nature's thread lock: iron oxide. For this low torque application, I'd be leaning towards flattening some threads with pliers or a hammer + punch, cuz how often is cab mounting hardware going to need removing...then again, I've recently seen pics on the internets of oil drain plugs tacked to the pan, sometimes jokesters leave surprises for the next guy 👀

yep

Looks like some good progress here...I see enough dry valve lifter surfaces to confirm that valve train is locking up the engine. I have seen valve lifter areas coated with sludge, so much that it had to be scooped out. Them flakes looked like dried up oil. Overall, this valve lifter area looks OK, could be a lot worse. Now you can see what more needs to be soaked with penetrants. If them valve springs have pits or other corrosion, they'll probably need replacing at some point. •The manifold studs penetrate the water jacket, so coolant loss here during disassembly is normal. •That puddle of water near the draft tube could be condensation, as that area is right next to the outside air. •Beware: that valve area sludge may have lead in it. additional information - heat riser advisor additional information - draft tube to partial PCV conversion

watch out for this'n on the intake manifold...it'll getcha 👀

Compare this excerpt from the C-1 shop manual to the B-3 shop manual...kinda looks like finger tight + 1/8 to 1/4 turn I reckon

the spacious interior of a Tucker

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-1or2 on the FB