Plymouthy Adams

sometimes you got to back up to go forward....not a sin, some things that look good on paper still need a tweak. You moving along, fabricating small stuff like this is time consuming. Anyone that thinks otherwise is still just writing checks to a repair shop.

I can't believe you run here before even trying any solutions for yourself first.....but hey, you got cap on now....!

glad you got that appointment....getting into an office these days otherwise is not going to happen, keep us in the loop. For others here, don't forget the med-stop offices....they get you in quick...get your referral later if needed. Dome of this stuff today you cannot take a chance and play around.

I am sure your problem is the fact that the plastic at the center where the cap snaps into place and hold everything snug is way too THICK be they shiny or painted, the originals are thin metal at this point of construction. This added thickness is not allowing you to position the cap below the apex of the retaining feature of the clip and thus they are NOT POPPING into the cap opening. I would think I would find some metal originals...if you cannot and wish to continue the course with the plastic one...you may have to remove the clips from the wheel and add shims to get the clips high enough to enter the hubcap opening. You will need to be minimum the thickness of the plastic in your shim selection. Lot of work for sure.....there is the very likely chance that if you did manage to hold without mods put in place, odds are first chug hole and there goes both cap and insert....

BASE jumper maybe....

sounds like you got what you need to work with.....lay it out in order often gives one a better idea of what needs be accomplished.

you will be utilizing another cross member a bit further back on the rear of the transmission....you will be fabricating this either from a kit or on your own design

thanks for the reply, I have never seen his products first hand and did not know if or if not an instructions sheet came with the kit/parts. It is such a shame vendors leave you with vague data even more disturbing they will not answer an e-mail concerning their product. What would it take to say, let me look into this and drop you an answer shortly...? I would say in the few V8 changes I have made, yes....it needs come out. But unfortunately these were 52 and earlier frames and I did a bit more than just swap in the V8. I wish I could give you step by step.

not being difficult here, but would this not be best posed back to Butch, he is supplying the parts/kit....it would only seem likely he knows the particulars with fitting his own conversions.

in a real emergency, do not stop to open a window....use a chair and smash right on through...might be your last chance to break a glass....go for it...

guess I never realized how deep behind the bumper the crank rod adapter fits.....I have no less than 9 maybe 10 of these for the LBC's...their crank end doubles as a lug nut tool on these puppies.....

odds are this was the smooth case tranny and they are not know for beefiness at all. The later ribcase from the Spridgets were the go-to and well, still is. A few other trannies are reported used, Fiat eng/tranny combo....Datsun tranny or eng/tranny and few of the Euro Ford units I have read. The Miata has been mentioned but have never seen a white paper on this improvement. These engines variations are 5 decades old...

not sure 100% on truck but on the autos, 9 inch are the smaller caps and 10 are the larger....usually the 10's are used on many wheels that will feature a full trim ring inlay that the hubcap helps to keep laid in places. Both 9 and 10 should fit the same wheel as their opening is the same.

can't get than many mopars in one place in our area......thanks..! good pics

thanks for the pictures, looks to be a long line of cars.....I just got the news letter from Moss Motoring, surprised to see that I owned 4 of the models listed in the magazine this issue. Good article on the MG1100 and the Panamanian Highway. These little cars I know are not for everyone but with a little more exposure am sure many would feel right at home with one based solely on their simplicity. I see that Morry peeking out from behind the Morgan...

them headlight covers....look like multi-facet bug eyes......but then again, would hate to have a stone hit these otherwise. Big big gains you have made on the project....good to see that...

Ed, I recall an ad Chrysler did of a Sebring and I am thinking 72 year....but what it is they are on a pier with a cover over brand X car and the Sebring....they push brand X in the water and states it sinks like a rock. (you know the rock commercial) They push the Sebring into the water and quickly remark that it also sinks like a rock but that is not what they want to point out here. today....

I admit I viewed the film strip without speakers and or headphones....bean is crazy.....this is a fav of mine.... Mr. Bean Live Performance at the London 2012 Olympic Games - Bing video

I understand...covid and winter has many folks feeling couped up and cabin fever setting in. I assure you that you are NEVER or will EVER BE ALONE on the never ending search for specific data. As a person that modifies and upgrades many different cars of many makes.....a part could well be of use to me GIVEN I had a few of the actual measurements and such. The parts world today is THE COMPUTER MUST SAY IT FITS..or you get nothing else for your efforts. One such item of late for me to find replacements as they are NLA I was about to give up when I found a company listing such parts by specs. I was able to find a cross number that albeit with a little turning in the lathe for length...was spot on in application. This data if given with the part number would go so far in resolving such issues.

not to berate but maybe you could do a bit more to denote your intent on your post, you made remark to sarcasm above but without an emogee to denote intent, most replies are just words in a line of words....hard to read and understand what all posters are trying to say at times. Again, not in your face in any manner but if joking, let that be noted as such. But surely if one or more folks find issue, odds are there is an issue. I find it odd you post, remove the post and then blast the forum for not seeing your intent and well if for no other way to say it, took your ball and bat and went home. Whereas a post to make you earlier post more clean would have been the better means to inform the forum at large. Right now, many here see a poster that got upset for a post that was likely not well received by one but at no time can one poster dictate the view of the forum at large. You threw in the towel early.

in a manner of speaking yes, I was not out to slam anyone for what they posted or why and as often without an emogee to denote sarcasm, one never knows the intended gist of a post. I did not ever figure you to buy the machinery needed to grind a cam....and why the reply as to NOT THAT SIMPLE and yes copy grinding would be quick and easy, development of a cam profile for specific range of operation so no walk in the park. I try not to criticize anyones build or approach...but as for the other cam fact as in marking for later interpertion without gauging, that is a plus and for sure a value to the end user down the years when building an engine, he needs but know the cut count and location. Again, apples and oragnes but an insite into how others do things.

many folks are so tone deaf and suffer such a degree of hearing loss that any high dollar audio system is wasted on them.....and then we will not include the racket that ensues as they attempt to sing along...at that time the system value is where possibly the spouse would pay someone to steal the system and get it out of the house.

ah but it were just that simple...copy grinding would not be involved, development however is way way deep.... This is apples and oranges...and while castings are one thing...one engine line I have a bit of hands-on list their cam profile by cut marks. Depending on location between what lobes and how many cut lines there are identifies the cam to the owner as original cam grind was established. Quite a nice system and way ahead of many other in the ability to read a cam without degree wheel and v-blocks. This covers some 4 decades of profiles.

while the lift is a point of interest to some degree, unless you v-block the cam with a degree wheel and record the duration and other lobe data....it is not very useful but just a note of interest.

casting number are not part numbers.....little data was tracked in this manner....a cast profile can be ground to many different cam profiles in duration and lift.