Plymouthy Adams

the filters are just one or two, at one time...you could sort by angle then by spring width. Same as axle perches where one could filter out the chaff. The trend is to force you into make and model so they can target you with other items it seems. Last time I bought perches at Summit the filters were in place for spring width and tube diameter. The search within results for some reasons takes me off the page I am supposed to be searching within and list products nowhere closely related. Many website have gone this change in search even our own site here where you have to use so many modifiers to narrow down the junk returns. I once used Summit site for checking availability as I do a fair bit of retrofitting as often you got specs....specifications are slowly being taken from all listing and the go-to make and model search is what the parts counter guy only has an understanding of as in...nope not listed, next in line please.

I of late when retrofitting a drive train found a need for some 4 degree shims for the 1.75 spring width. I used WFO Concept brand and while a bit more costly, they are by far some of the best shims I have seen on the market. I was not involved with any lift/lowering, just setting the phasing of the driveline. Just one such product and the one I used. Summit has changed some of their search aspects and could not find a filter for angle or width. You have to sort by looking at each offering now it seems. WFO 4.0-1.75 for sale | eBay

that pan is in need of some tweaks to bring the sealing surface level and smooth...this is classic signs of over tightening trying to extend the uefullness of a gasket

the gravel shield some call it....others a valance.....it fits just behind and slightly lower than the front bumper's top lop and will contour to the body/grille...

the D19 is typically a bit larger body than the lil sister Plymouth not to mention the curve of the butterfly could be distinctly different.

clockwise to retard and about 4 degrees if using lower grade fuel experiencing pinging on grades

See, now you talk all about your special IMPORT oil....might double the value of our car.....🤑

glad you got a bit of time for the turkey truck....here it is a week later....the roof on the van is stripped....the roof gutter I have dug the old sealant out and glad I did, it did not look bad but compromised in three places and thankfully not very badly at that. Today I am sitting and waiting to see if I can get a second set of hands running the sealant in the now primed gutter as I am sure I cannot place and smooth that much of an area solo before skinning over on the sealant. So working a few smaller issues on other projects and playing fields.

further, you did not state the make and model visor, they mount similar but with a few differences that make all the difference

As you list New England as the area you reside, I feel reasonably sure Chicago is safe from any ill effect of your transmission lube choice.....😄

I vaguely recall a T headed pin that was in a Ford gasket kit back when I was a wrench for Ford and the earth had two moons...but the we all remember the difficulty of the oil pan at the timing cover on these engines preventing leaks on a timing chain job due to nylon timing gears.

for sure my error.....I was looking at the guide pins...never in my life on any pan gasket have I seen or used pins...so that is new to me also. Thanks

the pins as shown and explained in the pictures are bolts with the heads cut off and slotted for a yankee screwdriver to aid in screw them in and out and show optimum position for effectiveness...thus the pins are GUIDE pins one will create themselves for ensuring the gasket does not shift when placing pan against the block....the narrative and written text with the pictures pretty much explains this step by step see picture posted by 9 foot box.....

just to satisfy my curiosity, does not your computer/smart phone show the pictures of the pan with gaskets and pin locations clearly marked or the picture of the actual pin one easily makes for this application....

that movie line is classic.....so much going on even in the background that keeps you in stitches....crazy stupid at its best....!

when you are seated in driving position, an assistant is holding the mirror....would be hard to make a hole where it should not be...now it is easy to make a hole, mount the mirror and later say I don't like these....worse when one get busted and you cannot find a replacement...therefore, yes....a clip on would like be your best move. These later swan necks have been out there for years and I feel they will still be available years down the road. The task is often only as hard as you make.

an assistant is always handy for such as this...BE AWARE...the passenger side is the hardest to set practical usage and I recommend you check that fit first and then for balance see if it will work equally well for the drivers side.

I pretty much think all are in agreement to the cowl mounted mirrors....none are being shown here....and later on in the 50 with the fender mounted mirrors, pretty much the same....while the drivers side if somewhat effective, the passenger side is all for balance and show it seems. The curve of the door at the top makes finding any mirror that will set and look less than tacky add on is very hard to come by.

the modern readily available swan necks that are stud mounted with ant-rotational stud included work well. Admittedly mine are mounted onto my P15 via what I call tiara trim from a donor car carefully worked to fit the shape of the P15...the mirrors are functional but would like them to be about an inch larger in diameter if my opinion means anything.....pictures taken during assembly, third pic may show them in a frontal view.....

most glaziers have the template available through NAG....contact them and inquire.

it is my finding that more resistors failed due to the position they were mounted and the sudden cooling when exposed to water when hot and wet hood lifted....I always run a dropping resistor on the older ignitions....and I cannot recall changing a resistor....shield them...you will survive the ride...

in your first post you mentioned you used 140 wt. hypoid oil....do you know what hypoid oil is.....enough said.....the API still rates the oil, the industry still supplies the correct oils as needed. you free to read interpret and use what you wish....it is the posting of misinformation that more the manner I said what I did.

as I read this, he is planning on using just the wire and not the actual plugs of the extension cord...use stranded wire for DC.....you can use this if you wish.....you could not begin to count the number of car trailers and such wired with extension cord donors....just too quick and easy, nice protective coating over the wires...

GL1 is still available, never been made obsolete and likely never will, the GL2, GL3 and GL6 are obsolete with GL4 and GL5 a hypoid oil with EP additives and the move from sulfur to other additives, you still do not need this in a tranny, only in the rear differential. If the GL1 was not available I could see a discussion for a substitute, I also see other marketed gear lubes used but again, these are not hypoid gear classed oils. If it is marked EP...not for the tranny.

are you using a starter relay/solenoid?