Plymouthy Adams

Oh and as an added.....by design this pin is supposed to fail should you try to release the jack when laden so not to end up with a catastrophe resulting in maiming or killing the person trying to override the limits/intent of the device for whatever his/her reasoning may be at the time.

I have never seen a ratchet stand fail with EXCEPTION to the fact that someone tried to release it when laden and sheared the roll pin that is the link lever to ratchet pawl. Even so, once engaged ratchet to pawl, never an issue.

you could have flashed the residual magnetism back into the unit...

MEK was some nasty stuff, we used to use it to clean equipment in the Army but for health concerns was abandoned in 1974 by our organization....imagine the military quitting its use....had to be baddddddd stuff. I sure did a good job cleaning caked on grease and oils however and dried inks.

this for sale local...mut be lot more art than bike for his opening price.....thought you may like some of the features like the springer fork set up....

many fuel pumps have a micro mesh screen protecting the pump on the input side....it may be time to see if this has been restricted with debris from the tank. maybe a blowback of the line with the inlet to the pump open will show this debris being dislodged.

late model Mopar columns are easier to adapt.....and have been known to install them in Chebbies...and 4 wheel drive Power Wagon....better columns in my opinion as I have NEVER had to do repair work on a Mopar column, only GM and Ford...I will not compare but mine is an IDONEIT...then again, I put Porsche gauges and tachometer on a V8 mopar retrofit to a 41 Dodge truck....dare to be different, not a cookie cutter...? just my 3 cents worth, whatever you do is fine with me....!

When I first moved to this town there was a man with a carriage repair shop in an old warehouse down by the tracks. He was a craftsman to no end and was a treat to view his shop and works in progress. Alas, family issues and the shop is gone. This is definitely an art form. There are so many things wrong with the current century that make me unhappy also that a bit of time travel would soothe and calm for sure.

send me some of that MAGIC MELDING MIXTURE.....

wooden rims, where a man can literally take a termite for a spin....

THINK..in time, the father of the modern IFS did indeed make advances on its own design with the shock upper mount going to the frame.....how can you entertain multiple shock as NOT A MOD but the position of upper shock to the frame a MOD...

there are other search modifiers.....but I do not recall a thread of anyone working multiple shock mounting for the front suspension. The stock shock is so weak in design though it did what it was intended, check spring oscillation, it does this independent of the chassis no spring oscillating anymore the overall floating of the a-arms continued as the chassis was unchecked control arms to chassis. The use of F1 or Dodge truck or the two different sized arms offered in the rodding market or the different other mounts advertized will allow the upper shock mount to go to the chassis and be very effective. If you have not moved the shock mount to the frame, this would be a good starting point, buy a quality shock and fit to the new location and tame the beast. Could well be all you need for the front given you installed a sway bar...maybe a heavier sway bar is in order down the road. These heavy tubs will never have a sport car ride of feel but for sure can be improved a bit.

you can barely locate and purchase a fuse panel, flasher and base or relay and base for about half that cost at a swap meet supplier....with it already assembled and all the wire....you are so far ahead of the game in time and trouble...going to be hard to come up with negatives here. No excuses now....time to get it wired.

the rolling end lift jacks are nice....remember using them back in the day at the shop. They were unique in that you could roll them to the parking area outside and service a vehicle given the main lift was tied up at the time, but yes...cars did have bumpers back in the day, real metal..!

man down the street has an Atlas two post lift....and his concrete supposedly poured as specific to the lift requirements. The biggest problem was he assembled it wrong...long story short I had to repair a new lift, assemble it as it was supposed to be. These lifts do not impress me and I am very leery working under them. The use of the dead men is the only way I will work on anything sitting atop the lift and raised in the air. Just me I guess. I have two 4 post lifts and I will never get under them till I inspect the latches are fully secured and the pressure is off the ram. The one lift is an open end unit with no cross beam to duck under and is also very open beneath and between the ramps. The rolling jacks front and rear make this the most accommodating lift ever. This unit due to size and design is bolted in place. I see some of the advantages of a two post but so far I have been able to do all my stuff on either of the 4 posters. The weight is further displaced to 4 post and the heavier the rating the larger the displacement pad on the uprights. Most all 4 posters will stand and operate without being bolted down, will roll about even if the car is on the ramps on the average if you have a smooth floor. The 2 posters are running less in initial cost....metal prices today has put lift cost at a premium. Some are approaching near 1200.00 or better the price of a couple years ago and more than doubled since my first lift I bought. I'd buy two tomorrow if I could get them at the same cost of that first unit.

the teeter effect or unbalanced load on the two post, concentrates the load to a smaller patch of concrete....with two post lifts many use an adjustable dead man for stabilizing.

IF the whirling of the fan is directly dependent on the inrush of air through the carb body as developed by the downstroke of the piston....then I would think the loss of air flow to drive the impeller would be greater than the effect of the impeller to accelerate further and the inrush of air through that side jet over overrides a spring with suction....how are you going to change metering for the fuel as it is control by the jet and venturi effect taking place above this device......could be wrong here but hard to visualize how this small added charge of induction of air could boost the charge of A/F as it is robbing air movement to create a unknown air movement....this the effectiveness of this would be phycological at best. Like folks who over carb an engine and kick it down for a lag only to have the engine recover and pick up speed, the seat of the pants power effect without regard to the speed and power drop and recovery time taken in consideration. Like so many that pop up the cam duration and lift for added HP and never read the fine print where you just lost 20-30 HP at street RPM where the car is drive 95% of the time usually at a tradeoff to less than desirable street manners.

be unique to find one of these just for the fact of display at cruise in and such as a conversation starter. Hopefully they did not all disintegrate and got ingested into the engine. Like the Pogue carb...bought up and placed aside as a threat to the fuel suppliers at best one of the biggest conspiracies since Roswell. I still like to look at all the add on that say get this much fuel saving here and so much over there and well next thing you know you losing all your driving time to having to stop and drain excess fuel from your tank with enough power from the engine to escape earth gravity and orbit the earth.

ok, now with that explanation, I agree, do not invest time and dollars into a car that might be impounded/confiscated. I would think that with the body numbers you have for comparison against the hot list of stolen would be in order. The documents are in place for the transfer of the estate to the dealer, the dealer to you and with the actual records of production and the fact it falls inside the assigned numbers out of Detroit, this would be presented, and all would be clear on new documentation in your home of registration. My apologies, I thought with the provenance you had already mentioned there was title/registration already in your hands. I agree, you need to move forward and secure the documentation first. Best of luck dealing with the government office. Sometimes before it is over you feel you a trained animal jumping through this hoop or over that stile.

400 euros for what, a pedigree...why is it that the pedigree is always more important than the actual car and bringing/keeping it in good running order and cosmetics. Denial to the fact of the very serial numbers you have, the actual production numbers documents and the very history of the DIAMOND stamp on the engine...a symbol never used till mid 54 and never used again after. Think again on the 49, that is the model number, not the year of manufacture.....odds are the clerk has trouble entering data or deciphering.

IF you were to trust this clip again for your install...you may well be sourcing the playing field for another replacement set. I suggest an insert that will allow you to bolt these truly in a manner that will not allow them to lift off the spring tabs. this is a quick and easy mod. Even if you did not lose these due to clip fatigue or rust, they are easy susceptible to pilfering by an unscrupulous person strolling about an unattended car being displayed.

the decision could be a tough one and it is all based on the initial loss of usually not more than a couple dollars an hour pay.....this is often offset with less cost for fuel and food on the jobsite....with both going up as they are semi-weekly.....may well be affordable to jump.

This evening I made the last tool to compliment my Bend Pak alignment lift and round out what I need to do alignments. These can be anywhere from 35-65 bucks on e-bays. This I made from a caulk gun I bought new at the swap meet for 1.00 and the metal rod with nuts....free as they were discarded items I had picked up. The rubber foot, not sure where I snagged this in the past, was in my box of do-dads for when I project a bit on small stuff. Turned a collar, cut a piece of flat steel, drilled and threaded 4 bolt holes, painted the parts red and let the big dog eat.

I second that retirement is the best job ever, being retired I stay as busy if not more so than when working. I look back and wonder how I juggled work, house, kids/school, yard maintenance and still got a bit of sleep each day and was still pretty much on top of all these tasks. I realized that I went to work, I also was able to rest up. Being retired the secret is staying busy but to never set a deadline as this now crosses the fine line of hobby/fun and places it into the WORK zone....

I apologize, my error, I forgot "I" was on the truck forum....belay my last.....!!! I do not have a truck manual save the official Military 1941 book and it is not handy at the desk right now.