Leaderboard

I have a used steering box and column I planned on installing in my '51. Unfortunately a PO must have taken a hammer to the threads at the end of the tube and worm assembly in an attempt (I guess) to remove the steering wheel. The end damage prevented the nut from threading onto the tube and worm assembly and I couldn't get a normal die onto the threads either. Mostly by accident while searching around on the internet for a solution, I came across a tool called a "split die" which I had never seen before. I ordered the correct size split die, put the die over the good threads below the damaged end threads, added a few drops of oil, and slowly worked the die back and forth toward the end of the threads using a socket and ratchet. The tool worked perfectly. Maybe this will help someone who has to restore damaged threads at the end of a bolt, shaft, or whatever. https://www.jmeinnovations.com

I don't know many mechanics that are only a few years old. ?

as you will register the body and not the chassis and drivetrain changes....it will be counted as a D24....however for a real Mopar addict...it will enumerated with the junk and abortions...

Hi All from New Zealand. First post but a several times browser. Thought I should make myself known. I am a 60+ year old dairy farmer from nz. I have been the owner of a 1938 Dodge D9 sedan since buying it off my grandfather Alick in 1981. He had bought it new in 1938 and decided to stop driving and tender the vehicle so he wouldn't be tempted to change his mind. It was drivable, which I enjoyed for a couple of years and then started a what has come to be 35 year project of putting it back to a pretty new condition. It sat around in bits for many years as marriage, family, cows, farming and numerous interrelated projects all came before my old car disease. A restart to the project began in earnest in 2006 when I pulled out the detached and disassembled body from my workshop and took it to a friend who had a small local garage and panel shop. We agreed that his old timer panel man would start and continue the panel repairs when he had quiet periods and I had a few dollars spare. Fast forward nearly 15 years and here we are. At times it sat with no progress as his business ebbed and flowed and the same with my and my wife's farming business. It has ended up a bigger project than I ever imagined but I have enjoyed the ride. Heaps of time sourcing parts here and overseas and meeting lots of old car folks in the process. It will be a complete rebuild but not concours at all. I have tried to keep it period correct as much as possible but haven't gone to the extent of original bolts,nuts etc. Also the export D9 didn't have two taillights, a radio, a clock or two wipers. It was a pretty basic car. I have found these items and restored them all to give it a little more detail. Started the rebuilt motor for the first time since disassembly many years ago last September. Great moment!!! Hope to be finished in a month or two......thought that a few times over the years though. Lockdown has slowed things too. Anyway, just thought I should make myself known. Hope you are all doing ok in this current situation. Best wishes to the old car folks out there.

Ok folks, coming up, just around the corner and drawing near fast..get out to the shop, wipe the dust off them wrenches and get ready to turn and burn...this is one day out of the year...momma can do her own honey-dos for one day...no excuses...no forgiveness..!! you don't need a truck if ya not man enough to work on it.....?

Yes lots of people for what ever reason bid in the last few minutes as well. I don't know why. I bid as much as I wish to pay and if it goes higher in the end I don't want it.

It's called 'proxy bidding'. You enter the highest amount you'll bid for an item, and the system automatically bids over whoever else places a bid, until your upper limit is reached. That explains why you immediately got outbid...at least one of the other bidders placed a proxy bid with a higher limit than your bid.

Spotted this in the old fence-line along a dirt road near our house. It's not a musical instrument. -Roland

When I was stationed in Ft. Hancock (town, not an Army post), TX in the early '90s, I went by a garage sale at an old Texaco station in McNary. The gas station/garage had been unused except as someone's farm/ranch storage for quite some time. Thought I'd scored a box of NOS sparkplugs. Turned out they'd done what your Dad used to do. I had actually scored a box of used AC sparkplugs, in pristine NOS individual boxes. One of them silver-lining-learnin' opportunities. Since then I always open the box. Still have them, though. They look nice in our curio cabinet on the car stuff shelf...

Behavior like that would severely upset my father. In his day the old ones would be cleaned regapped put into the boxes the new ones came in put in the garage and used in the REO lawn mower.

I have only understood it to be the travel of the push rod on the end of the brake pedal. You need some play or you will end up with sticking brakes. With the required play to prevent sticking brakes, you cant get all the air out, bleeding it on the car. So we bench bleed the MC to remove all the air. I guess I am just surprised bench bleeding a master cylinder went for 2 pages of answers.

Not wiser.......

Wrong description, the phrase is experienced and efficient. At least that's what I try to tell people.

Gainful Employment?????????? Is that legal these days? ?

Come on all- fess up- have we all not found that out- After the fact!! ? I know I did-several times over the years- Oh ya, Now - I remember that happens with the cap left off! ? DJ

You might want to soak it in gasoline overnight to make sure the resin doesn't deteriorate or swell.

Oh yes. The original super car. Oh yes. The original super car.

It's not made of wood. It appears to be some type of synthetic material. It was located in the "stash of crap pile out back" that we all have, but cannot throw out. We heated it up considerably with a heat gun. No distortion or melting. So I figure it's worth a try.

Looking at your plugs (last pic #5 and #6 plug) the metal point protrusion from the ceramic is corroded. More corrosion = higher resistance = less powerful spark. Joe Lee

My wife got into researching her family tree and got all excited about Colonel William Bell, an ancestor, that was a United Empire Loyalist. Till I pointed out that her family and mine probably fought each other and her side lost. lol. My family comes from the same general area of New York, or Nieuw Nederland as it was called when mine showed up, as her does. She was not amused. Funny thing is even though our ancestors lived in the same general area in the past I am not from there and we met in Tennessee, which neither of us is from. We were both in the service and were at the same base for training, her to be an aviation structural mechanic and me at a radar school. Just chance we met.

can't wait!, although, when l tell Julie about this event, it will be "international work on your truck month" ( SHHH, don't say anything to her )

Here is one with some detail: Since you have driven a stocker, can you imagine that with 350HP? That's the reason for the big reinforcement plate fitted to the rear of the frame I guess.

My AC 45 have 40000 miles on them. Last time I pulled them to check the gap 2 years ago, they looked as new. But I believe I put them in in 2008, maybe time for new ones. But it starts and runs fine and averages 18 mpg, so my motivation is pretty low.

Keep at it Roland. Sounds like you are getting it narrowed down. Fwiw I am not too keen on running with an original style pump and this stuff that passes for gasoline these days. As I was building my truck I decided to ditch the old style pump and install a big Carter rotary style pump back at the tank. I installed a large canister type pre-filter ahead of this pump and another just ahead of the Carb. This has functioned well for me in daily use for 5 plus years. Some might consider this overkill but I feel it was a prudent thing to do. Also I dose every other tank full with MMO. Jeff

Wait till dark, start her up, take a check under the hood, look for Sparks from the plug wires especially number six. If there is spark from the wire to any external ground, juice isn't getting to the plug.

Maybe we can enlist Dr Sheldon Cooper (big bang theory) to figure out an equation - LOL. Could not resist a little humor injection...

0.12 to 0.15 is really a big clearance for the brake shoes. I assume you mean 0.012 to 0.015. I don’t think you need to bench bleed the master but it sounds like you still have air in the lines. I have much better luck with a pressure bleeder than by the pump the pedal method. Double check for leaks: A pin hole leak at a fitting can make it impossible to get the brakes properly bled.

There's a hole in that theory.