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As always, the BBQ was THE event of the year. One of the few things I look forward to every year, the thing all other things get planned around. Tim and Steph are truly wonderful people and I'm glad to call them friends. Here's another photo...

picking up sap yesterday...

I've had more issues on the 2 lanes than the freeways. Freeway you just stay to the right and let the crazies go around. 2 lane they gotta pass you and that's not always possible as soon as they'd like it

CJ, Where are you in N.C. Knuckleharley is in the East Side of the State. I am in Huntersville, (North of Charlotte). Maybe one of us can help you. Unless you just don't trust us. I am not in the market for that car (I am over 60 and do not want a project car) I only want drivers that run. I am however, in the Carolina Chrysler Club and can put you into contact with about 40 members here in North Carolina. Please advise me if you so choose to, otherwise, Good Luck. Tom

The most money can be made by parting it out. Which would mean you might end up spending the next couple of years removing parts to sell to people in other states,and you end up selling the car for 25 to 100 bucks at a time and the money just disappears a LOT quicker than the car does. I don't get a sense of you wanting to do all that,or even having the tools to do all that. Haul it to a scrap yard and you MIGHT get $180 for it. Last I heard a month or so ago scrap cars are bringing around $4.50 per hundred lbs of weight here. If you have to rent a trailer to haul it to the scrap yard,you might clear 75-100 bucks,and that's not much money for all the time and work. Put it up for sale on places like this site,your local Craig's List,and on ebay,and I'd be shocked if you didn't get at least 750 bucks out of it within a week. Maybe/Probably even more if you can get a clean NC title for it in your name that has numbers that match the numbers on the car. A clean title in your name that you can sign that has numbers that match the ones on the car can bring an additional 500 bucks when you sell it to someone who wants to put it back on the road. If nothing else it practically guarantees you will sell the car if the asking price is reasonable. Put it on ebay and let the market set the price, My suggestion is to get a clear title,clean all the trash and crap out of the car so potential buyers can get a good look at it,get a friend that knows something about mechanicals to see if he can get the engine unstuck and spinning freely,and THEN take the photos and put it up for sale. If you have any spare parts that go with the car,display them on a plastic tarp or blanket on the ground so they can be seen in the photo. I don't particularly want the car because I already have more project cars than I have time left to live,but I live in eastern NC,and if you decide you want to just get rid of it by scraping it,let me know and I will pay you 50 bucks more than the scrap guy and come and get it. Maybe I can find someone that will want to buy it. I HATE the idea of restorable cars going to the crusher.

while were are waiting for the photo's from Hank and Mike.... thanks again Mark, Davin and Tim for the parts! I took yesterday off, to recoup from the 14hr drive and, since it wasn't raining I swapped out that front bumper and re purposed the old one I should probably worry about getting it running again.............

dang!! I blew it again this year!!! to much "jaw jackin" and not enough photo taking It was awesome to hang out with Mark, John, Tom, Davin, Jeremiah, Bruce, Mike, Hank, Merle, Rod, Dave, Ralph...... I was trying to get around more to talk more to Jim, Paul, Gary and Tim and meet some more of you but there just wasn't enough time!! (above photo of John-T-53, Desotodav and ggdad1951) to everyone that help me work on Julie's truck and load it back on the trailer a big THANK YOU! I know you don't come to these to work on them but it was kind of cool and very much appreciated!

Hello all, I 'race' a 1952 Chrysler New Yorker (originally a 331 V8, Now has a 413 RB / 727) in the 24 hours of LeMons, our car has 4 wheel drum brakes which are simply not adequate for racing and need to be swapped for disc brakes ASAP. We are focusing on the front disc swap at this time. Another LeMons team is racing a 48 Plymouth that already has an 'Explorer' disc upgrade, and are currently in the process of upgrading their front end again, thus their disc brakes and the complete front end have become available to us. I am trying to figure out if the Plymouth parts can bolt up in place of our New Yorker parts. My Short question is 'Can I unbolt my New Yorker front suspension and bolt up the Plymouth suspension?' Long question is a little more involved as what I've been able to gather from looking at the catalog at www.oldmoparts.com is that the New Yorker with a V8 may have different as in 'heavier' spindles, drums, etc... New yorker has a 5x5.5 wheel bolt pattern vs the Plymouth with the explorer disc brakes seems to have a 5x4.5 lug pattern. The difference in part numbers makes me think that I cannot just move over the hubs. I'm hoping to be able to move over the upper and lower control arms with the spindles, etc... I am located in Maine and the parts are halfway across the country, need to figure out if this is possible prior to making a trip or shipping. Any advice is much appreciated. Attached pictures are the new yorker on track Loudon, October 2016 , Plymouth currently in pieces, and plymouth disc brake front end parts that are available to us. Dale.

I bought my 40 Plymouth 2dr sedan 20 yrs ago. Towed it to my in laws and parked it in their driveway. I originally had grand plans of totally restoring the car and making it pretty much as it rolled off the assembly line in 1940. I put it up on blocks removed all the brakes as they didn't work. removed the dash and other bits and pieces and started cleaning some things up and that's about where it sat. Meanwhile I was busy with kids, work and life (Sound familiar?) I gave up on it several times. Tried selling it a few times to 2 deadbeats who never showed up to get the car. Tried giving it away for free. One guy was really excited because his Dad had one and he thought it would be a great project. He never showed. Recently I was resigned to the fact that I may as well just junk the thing because it's only been sitting and a Raccoon had made a home in the interior some years back and ruined the interior upholstery and headliner. (I had the front floorboard out)........The engine was now stuck as well after sitting so many years with the head off. A couple months ago I started putting Creeps oil in the cylinders. Didn;t seem to help much. Anyway to make a short story long, the day I was gonna call the junkyard i pulled back the cover from the car. Took a long hard look at it. ( I swear it talked to me!) I convinced myself then and there that the car is too good to junk and I can make it road worthy again. The past 3 Sunday afternoons I've set aside a block of time and dedicated it to the 40, Yesterday I was ready to remove the flathead six but it started raining. Today it was raining as well in the AM but around noon it cleared up for a while. I trook advantage of that. Ran over to the car and finally after all these years removed the engine. I had just put away the hoist and tools and got the eng in my trailer and it started pouring out. It's amazing what can be done with the right frame of mind attitude and focus. Thanks for reading my rambling..............................................

Put the identification info of your master cylinder into google search, then go to images and you will find your answer. 4mula is spot on, you need a proportioning valve immediately after the MC then the lines to front and rear.

You need to run those into a proportioning valve before the brakes FYI...I can't get at my truck this minute, but if nobody else answers before tonight, I'll have a look

Got that covered Mark... Hank has photos & will post later on.

You can use the stock generator bracket, some allthread and some spacers depending on what alternator you use. Do a search....Don Coatney has posted pics on the subject.

Clean it up will help, set a realistic price and your worries are over. Then shop for a driver that better fits your abilities.

I'm in kannapolis Tom, not far at all, you're more than welcome to come take a look at the car and give me your opinion, up close and personal is always better than the internet(lots of hidden details). I'd love to know a reasonable price for the car or parts. Just so its clear to everyone scraping the car is the last thing on my mind, I would have left it the woods if I didn't think it was worth something. My original plan was to restore it until I saw how much time and money it was going to take that I don't have.

Carolina Chrysler Club: carolinachryslerclub@gmail.com (Kevin Gilland President). Ball is in your Court.

From looking at the pics it don't look that bad to me. I think someone would fix that car. I wouldn't mind having it but we're full up here. I would take a shop vac to it, trim the rags hanging down that was the head liner, mount 4 tires that would hold air (no tread necessary or do they even need to match), give it a wash, lay all extra parts in a pile ( don't throw anything away ) and post it for sale on Craigslist or Letgo. It will find a home if your realistic on the price.

If you can't make the new one work, you may want to consider rebuilding your old one (there are numerous sources for parts if you want to do it yourself, or rebuilders in Hemmings or on their website hmn.com). I bought a brand new pump from NAPA this past summer, when I put it in it leaked like a sieve. I went to tighten the bolts holding the two halves together and they were all stripped. I ended up rebuilding my old one for about 1/3 of the price. The kit has the newer material in the diaphrams that better tolerates today's gas w ethanol, but I usually run non ethanol gas in my old stuff whenever I can.

Thanks guys.I loved your inputs very much.Now you can sleep.

I live in a rural area, but I still stick to the back roads whenever possible. To many tailgaters, phone talkers/texters that aren't expecting a 45 mph truck.

Took awhile but in a couple more weeks I'll have cup holders.....

Another easy way to check for spark is to buy a spark checker (not sure of proper name). This has a bulb and and is designed to take a plug wire at one end and to fit the plug at the other. The bulb lights up every time the plug gets spark. No light , no spark. You can run the car with it on which is kind of cool to watch, especially at night. They are quite cheap and a nice addition to your tool collection.

16 cars, two motorcycles and an airplane go into this one. Barbecue stove bolt hot rod

Resistors require heat to work. Starting a car with a cold resistor will produce a higher voltage and that voltage will drop as the resistor heats up. So an internally resisted coil will supply a somewhat higher voltage at startup. On my 12 volt conversion I am using a Ford 4 pole solenoid. Pole 3 in the photo below is hot with a full 12 volts when ever the starter button is pushed. I ran a wire from this pole to the coil side of my external ballast resistor so during startup I supply a full 12 volts to the coil. Once I release the starter button the coil power is resisted to something close to 6 volts.

So I got the wagon out in the sun yesterday. Sanded the window trim to get off to paint. Centered the steering so I know how much to move the shaft so the column is centered. I think all the wiring is in order too. Just a little tidying up.

Then this afternoon I splashed a little paint on the engine.

Window regulator repair While enjoying an early spring ride with my PT81 two days ago, the driver side window one third open, I wanted to move the window a bit down. Klonk, the crank lever blocked. Cranked it to the opposite direction, the window moved up easily. Down, klonk. Three attempts later the window was completely closed … It ended that I had to remove the regulator unit out of the door. For those who had not yet had the opportunity to work on a regulator: essentially that thing is a simple mechanical device. No need to get afraid of it. When inspecting the unit, I did not see anything that was unusual worn or any dirt that was sticking in the mechanics. First tried it with oiling, but it still moved only into one direction, not into the other one – klonk. That klonk let me assume that there must be something in that pot [1] where the crankshaft comes out. Unfortunately that pot is spot welded to the unit`s main plate [2]. What shall I say, at the risk to damage more, I had to open that pot in any case … I carefully drilled the spot welds off and detached the pot with a small steel wedge [3]. I really was surprised how many pieces were inside [4]! After cleaning the parts I became aware that that what first appeared to be a fine thread [5] was a spring [6]. I also found that tiny piece of wire [7] … that is the end piece of the spring. The repair was pretty simple: Bended a hook to the broken end of the spring [8], greased everything and put all pieces back into the pot [9]. The two ends have to be hooked into the mechanism. The picture shows one of the spring`s end unhooked [10]. The green arrow shows where it has to be, when ready installed (spring loaded). Instead of trying to weld the pan back onto the main plate (I feared to damage the pan since it has got a thin wall thickness) I first tried to solder it [11] and it worked. Two hours after removing the regulator unit out of the car I had a perfect working unit. Hope this post helps in case someone of you will have an issue with the window regulator, too. By the way: Althogh I was a little disappointed that the mechanism already has gone broken after 78 years - I am really again and again impressed what great solutions the guys developed, even at so minor things like a window regulator !

Despite my best efforts, I just couldn't get the peel n seal in my car to go up in a raging inferno. Had to do some welding on my floor to install some seat mounts and all the peel n seal stuff did was melt and puddle, which I will admit made welding difficult. It did catch on fire a bit, but seemed content on self-extinguishing after a second or two. It smelled and smoked something awful though. I probably took ten years off my life with the fumes, but if I were keeping track of all the things I've done to shorten my lifespan throughout the years I probably should have died about twelve years ago. Here's to living on borrowed time.

Move your overhead sign so I can get my catering truck in.

Unfortunately "decent" brakes don't cut it where I live. I drive 5-7 thousand miles per year in the worst traffic in the US at 70 MPH, brakes need to be top notch always, not just after each adjustment. I guess geographical location plays a big part when choosing disc brakes or not.

BBQ is almost here.... When the event is under way, a few forum names will come up....some asking questions like "wonder what he's like?" "wonder if he'll come out next year?" or "wouldn't it be great if that guy was here, I'd like to talk with him". It's what created the "Wish You Were Here Award". An award that reminds everyone on the forum, no matter where you're at, you're invited!! Past winners: 2008 Don Coatney 2009 Merle Coggins 2010 Hank aka HanksB3B 2011 Ed aka Young ED 2012 Bud aka Budstruck 2013 Tim Adams aka Plymouthy Adams 2014 Mark aka ggdad1951 and Davin aka Desotodav 2015 Joe Hanely aka 52b3 Joe 2016 Dave aka Dave72dt This year, its a guy who has every dang vintage tool for our trucks, big or small! I once said I wanted to make a plaster cast of all his tools so I could hang them on my wall and be able to say "yah, that's the tool I'm suspose to be using!!" Great thing about him is that he has the ability to share his knowledge. I can't say that enough about anyone here who takes the time to do that! Hope I'm lucky enough to me meet you someday! • 2017 Rob aka Dodge4ya • Congratulations Sir!!! Look for your trophy in the mail my friend. 48D

I know this is an old thread but I'll post anyway. I rebuilt my B&B E7T1 several times using a NAPA kit and I always came away unsatisfied. I felt that there was not much difference. So last winter I sent the carb away to: http://www.oldcarbrebuild.com/ (I removed the link as he has retired - too bad) It was the best $200 I spent on my '55 C3B. It came back looking brand new and works like new. I highly recommend Dimitrios Kolioradakis. I'll attach one image...

Prayers and Positive Thoughts for George's Speedy Recovery.

I had one of those days were I felt I didn't get a lot done. It took all morning to adjust the hood to where I was happy with it. That had to be done before I could install the parking brake handle and then the dash board. So here we are!

Are those Jeep CJ head lights?

If you are watching "The Dogs Purpose" you will see both my trucks in the movie .We where asked to be extra's in the movie but I think the trucks got more screen time , I had to put the factory rims back on the 59 and I wasn't allowed to wash or wax it .

A general observation on these trucks: whenever ya want something done quickly, disappointment awaits you at the end of the day...as parts stores rely on computer databases for inventory control, vehicles that have been out of production for over 10 years are harder to get parts for, with the dreaded "back order" listed in the parts availability field on their inventory listing...as parts books gave way to these computers, and knowledgeable counter guys were replaced by hygiene-challenged clock watchers, I learned that it makes life easier to accept that any replacement part can take a week to get...if it takes longer, that's fine too as long as I can get it; if it takes less than a week, we'll that's a nice surprise As for your carburetors, I have learned that you must identify the carb in question accurately to obtain the correct kit. The pictured carb appears to be a Carter Ball & Ball, the model should be stamped into that vertical triangular web from the throat towards the fuel port...might possibly be a "E7T1" or something like that... might not even be original to the truck, so ordering carb.kits by truck model and year will lead to more disappointment... my '48 that has been in the family since new has a '55 Plymouth 230 that no one remembered being swapped out for the original, it also has a D6G1 (Dodge car?) carb with some sort of idle linkage that I think works in tandem with a thermostatic choke that is not present... it took some education to get that all sorted out...ordered a carb.kit from Roberts and a week later I was in business... your mileage may vary