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NiftyFifty last won the day on April 26 2016

NiftyFifty had the most liked content!


About NiftyFifty

  • Rank
    Guru, have been a long time contributor

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Shilo ,MB Canada
  • Interests
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Dodge D, 1967 Dodge Monaco 500

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  • Biography
    Forage Seed Seller, with a mechanic's heart!
  • Occupation
    Sales for Forage Seed


  • Location
    Oak Lake, Manitoba CAN
  • Interests
    sleds, mechanincs

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  1. some guys also use their forehead to pound in nails....doesn’t mean the rest of us that found the hammer are doing it the wrong way 😆 be great to see the YJ set-up!
  2. Nothing to say the truck didn’t go south....lots of US buyers with our dollar lower then yours pretty big difference when you look to the right and see the conversion. Still pretty high IMO, but as someone selling his truck, here’s hoping I can get 1/2 that! LOL
  3. They just had a 1” hole in the centre of the dish to allow the wires through. When I stripped all the bars off my 51 front I just used penny amber lights in the original holes
  4. I’ve got a hole saw and a welder...but I’m shaky with both 😆
  5. You can't weld spring steel, it will become brittle and just break again. You can make almost anything work, but buckets are much more comfortable and allow you and the passenger to make up their own mind how they want to sit. I have a 6 way power bucket seat from a Ford Explorer for my drivers and the regular passenger seat from the same vehicle, the mounts were actually almost exactly right, I just had to heat the one side up a bit and tweak it to sit level. I used the centre console from a early 2000's dakota and just made a piece to go around my shifter, but if you just found a complete set from a Dakota or s-10 you likely could make it fit just fine
  6. If you have to advance to 20, I have to wonder if your timing chain has jumped a tooth, or it was installed incorrectly at some point out. To check for vacuum leak, start the truck and let it off fast idle, or push the choke in and spray carb cleaner around the carb base, and intake gaskets...if the engine revs up or dies down you have a leak.
  7. Mine is hemi orange as well...looked great for about 2-3 years...now it’s a bit hard to keep clean....I know it might shock guys...but these things can leak oil and need repairs that scratch the paint! LOL Looks good, just keep up the pace and you’ll be on the road in no time!
  8. I run a 12 volt Purolator brand pump, it’s mounted about 18” from the tank outlet, I would always go this way over the stock mechanical, as the last one I priced was around $230 CDN. You only need a 2-4 lb pump, 5 or over is a bit much for the needle and seat and you shouldn’t require that much pressure for a single barrel.
  9. 5/16 line is pretty easy to bend, aluminum is more prone to kinks and cracks. Get a $20 princess auto bender and your golden, now 3/8” line I just did for my 67 Monaco...that sucked, and maybe aluminum would have been nicer
  10. Why do you want aluminum line?? Fuel lines should be steel, just head to CTire or Piston Ring and you can get a roll for $30-40. Even copper is acceptable in low pressure applications, but aluminum would be more for efi or just plain show if you wanted to polish the line.
  11. A lot....lol hood and front sheet metal supports(two bars from the firewall) have to be removed and the fan blade and water pump pulley usually, past that my mind is blank.
  12. I got a new collapsible shaft from Summit or alike in the DD format, that is an absolute must, but you will have to cut it, so you need to know both full extension and full collapse when you set everything up. And full extension needs to be springs hanging for awhile with no upward pressure, if your truck sees a hoist like mine does, you dont want that u joint holding the weight of the axle up because it's too short for full travel. I actually put limiters in for the max ability to collapse so I wasn't chancing any touching of the rack and oil pan or alike, but my front springs are a bit worn out.
  13. Do you have the Langdon distributor or the Frankenstein slant 6 one? My Langdon has be fantastic so far, and easier to get parts up here for it, then a new points and condenser, but typically electronic ignition works or it doesn’t, not much intermittent usually. Is your carb bowl always full?
  14. Just finished our big SuperRun week here in Manitoba, was a great turn out and beautiful but hot weather. I put the truck in with a couple of my old sleds on a deck I built for the show...funny how much interest there was in snowmobiles in 90 deg weather 😆
  15. It’s not a high gloss paint job, and factoring in that a lot of parts, trim, screws and clips will be missing or some un useable, needing everything that would go into it to put it back on the road, I’d say you have a $4-6000 truck there that will be hard to move to anyone except someone with the knowledge of what goes where and how. It is a bit of a blank slate for customization, but then again being a 3/4 ton hurts it, and again knowing what all would be needed to build, it needs another $10,000+ just to fully complete. Sadly all the above comments are true on your investment value and paying for bodywork doesn’t increase the value, it just puts it in line with any truck done properly at home.
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