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NiftyFifty

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NiftyFifty last won the day on April 26 2016

NiftyFifty had the most liked content!

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About NiftyFifty

  • Rank
    Guru, have been a long time contributor

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Shilo ,MB Canada
  • Interests
    MOPAR
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Dodge D, 1967 Dodge Monaco 500

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  • Biography
    Forage Seed Seller, with a mechanic's heart!
  • Occupation
    Sales for Forage Seed

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  • Location
    Oak Lake, Manitoba CAN
  • Interests
    sleds, mechanincs

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  1. is that a front steer or rear steer axle? Makes a world of difference trying to figure that out for the steering box and pitman arm As for stock brakes and suspension...those are only set up to control the stock powertrain, so once you add more weight and more speed then adding more braking power and handling is a must.
  2. Then they must just clamp on, and they aren’t made for a Dodge axle....seems more like an advertisement then a post
  3. I actually pondered this swap as well, but in all honesty by the time you factor in that you lose your bell housing, which is also the mounts for your pedals and master cylinder, you might as well go all the way to a V8 swap..... Then if you’re going to do that, it makes more sense to just put in a whole new clip or at least a kit to upgrade front suspension and brakes to handle the new power. This said, I rebuilt a 251 and upgraded my front brakes and a bunch of other engine goodies and the T5 trans swap, and I really wish I could go back some days and drop the V8 in
  4. there is actually at least 2 options, mine were the .873 width and I know a few others that have had to use that size as well, so although the .795 are the most popular they are not the only choice, except in some parts books. if someone didn’t do their research and just ordered a set and had them installed I could see where a fitment issue could come up I ordered my set from Rare Parts, about the only option I know, unless you find NOS ones.
  5. Well I made it....wasn’t much today, as I rented a tree bucket for my skid steer and spent the day moving trees, but I managed the last touch on my electric parking brake today for the 50. With the original “T” handle with just an extension cable going to the splitter I could never get enough force to really set the brake, and rather then mess around trying to find a lever/bracket to amplify the torque, I just purchased a 12 volt linear actuator, built a box to protect it and ran a rod from it to the splitter. So now there is just a switch on the dash and when it’s tight there is
  6. The “H” pieces go into the main cap along with the 1/2 of the seal of my memory is correct...along with a bit of RTV or gasket maker
  7. Main problem on the trucks is you can’t change the top 1/2 of the seal because you can’t reach the bolts, and near impossible to get the flywheel off with the bellhousing on....pulling the engine is the best way, but no fun at all
  8. Ya, I’m expecting as much or more possible work with a kit then just running the lines from a bulk roll, and maybe a few long straight pieces for the rear brakes. As long as you can get a double flaring kit to make lines, I’d just make my own...and those kits are available at pretty much ever parts store and even Home Depot
  9. I would lift and check for wheel drag if you thought is was residual pressure issue, but also those pressure switches are well known for failing, but typically in a no signal way, not on all the time
  10. The 2 piece seal as far as I can tell is near impossible to change on the trucks with the motor in, I could only ever change the bottom 1/2, I wasn’t even aware there was a rope seal style, but possibly that’s on the really old engines or US versions. Mine is the steel backed rubber style, which is nothing like more modern engine seals
  11. I would sandblast and check for thin spots for sure, and Por 15 is a great idea for inside the rim, but just be careful where the bead edge meets the tire, as a run or bubble could be enough to cause a slow leak later on. if you want really strong paint, sneak them into the house after a few coats and bake them in the oven.....only to be done by single men, and those who are planning to be 😆, but a good friend of mine did it, and it makes the paint a lot less prone to easy scrapes
  12. You’re going to take a step down in power, not a lot, but possibly enough to make a big difference on a heavy 4x4 truck. I would wait and hunt for a 265 25” block, start with any of the old equipment wreckers, they were used in a lot of industrial applications, like Massey combines etc. You very possibly just have a bad head gasket , but pulling plugs on a flathead proves basically nothing, pull the head off and have a good look, then get the head checked by a machine shop. Fairly rare to crack one of these old blocks, unless it froze full of water.
  13. My Jeep reservoir is straight up and down, not angled like pictured above. If anyone plans to use any “corvette” swaps, do a pile of research and don’t cheap out...90% of those kits they sell or aftermarket masters are junk, within the last 6 mo my buddies shop has put 2 brand new ones on and neither was any good.
  14. some guys also use their forehead to pound in nails....doesn’t mean the rest of us that found the hammer are doing it the wrong way 😆 be great to see the YJ set-up!
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