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NiftyFifty

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NiftyFifty last won the day on April 26 2016

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About NiftyFifty

  • Rank
    Guru, have been a long time contributor

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Shilo ,MB Canada
  • Interests
    MOPAR
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Dodge D, 1967 Dodge Monaco 500

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  • Biography
    Forage Seed Seller, with a mechanic's heart!
  • Occupation
    Sales for Forage Seed

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  • Location
    Oak Lake, Manitoba CAN
  • Interests
    sleds, mechanincs

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  1. The coolant and heat will eat that paint and bondo up in no time, I would clean that all off and either put a layer of JB weld or similar heat and chemical resistant epoxy. Best is a new pump, better is as JBNeal posted, last is my idea, but please don’t run it your way, it could cause a lot of issues
  2. Should get that scanned and offer the image up, likely safe as long as you didn’t sell it
  3. You may want to pull the bell housing with the engine, I know on mine I couldn’t get the flywheel off without a pile of difficulty from underneath, so I pulled it as one, less the transmission, but yes, those 4 bolts come out and it will definitely go. on the trucks it’s way easier to pull the front grill and fenders off to remove, no way you’re pulling that engine straight up with the hood removed
  4. I always just sharpen a good chisel and just cut them down one side, then pry them out, it not like you need to save them, just be mindful not to cut into the actual axle
  5. its the vibration over time that will tell, but my post is based more on the guys just trying to stick new studs on, which I tried and failed with JB and epoxies
  6. JB weld just doesn’t seem to cut it, I’ve done the same as many on here, but what I do think would work is auto body panel glue, but it’s around $60-$80 a tube and most need a special 2 plunger gun to work, but once it’s on, it’s not coming from off again
  7. I’m ok with FelPro head gaskets, but in my opinion the spray copper gasket sealer is a must on these old trucks, I lost 2 gaskets in a row and my block was decked and head planed, so everything should be true, but as soon as I put the spray on I’ve been good
  8. I haven’t seen a set that didn’t need reaming, so I’d say very likely
  9. I’ve done it and worked great, but on yours I’d recommend some heat then cook it with penetrating oil
  10. Lots of auto parts stores will rent you or loan out ball joint presses, it’s a really beefy c clamp with an open bottom, that’s what I used last time, but in some cases the axle has to come out and go into a hydraulic press
  11. He’s a dealer for Rare Parts, be cheaper to get it straight out of the US from them, but I have purchased from Norm as I’m in Canada
  12. I see a couple of options under the bigger motors and my 1 ton was the 11/16” x 18 pitch thread so the 1 1/2 might be the same
  13. I actually got mine from Moog off RockAuto, but supplies may be getting tighter. As for king pins, RockAuto has those too, but I had to get mine from RareParts, as the axle I used was the odd ball one.
  14. In my experience I wish I could go back and do exactly what you’re pondering, I started my truck with the idea it would just be for short tours, but that gets old soon and once I started investing money in switching to disc brakes and upgraded master cyl and later on rack and pinion steering and many other upgrades like a 251 with lots of go faster parts I still have a truck that isn’t comfortable for real long trips and although I can cruise highway speeds, at 70mph the old leaf spring suspension wasn’t really made for that. If you want a comfortable long distance cruiser then I w
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