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PT81Jan last won the day on April 27 2018

PT81Jan had the most liked content!


About PT81Jan

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 04/12/1971

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Germany; Friedrichshafen
  • Interests
    Especially Bikes and Cars of the 30s and 40s with Flathead engines (others are also welcome!)
  • My Project Cars
    - 1939 Plymouth PT81 Pickup Truck<br />
    - (1942 HD-WLA)

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    born 1971, married, children, 1st occupation: patternmaker, 2nd occupation: engineering technician
  • Occupation
    Designer / Engine Development


  • Location
  • Interests
    Still love my PT81

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1,042 profile views
  1. That is a "Rohrzange" / kind of "Wasserpumpenzange" 😁 translator says "pipe wrench" also called Sweden pliers, so not Erich`s pliers 😉 https://www.google.de/search?biw=1600&bih=763&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=f29-XZvpL9DMwQKGpLOAAg&q=Rohrzange&oq=Rohrzange&gs_l=img.3..0l10.21013.21663..23131...0.0..
  2. Hey Bob, I do not really have an answer for you, just a guess Another forum member here was asking a similar question some time ago regarding his 1939 Plymouth Pickup. His one has got the casting No. 663473-28 My 1939 PT has got the casting No. 663473-4 Both were originally equipped withe the 4.1 ratio gears, same axle dimensions. 1939 Dodge and Plymouth Trucks are practically the same. So I assume the axles are also pretty much the same. Here my guess(es): 1. series =663473, changes marked by the separate No. after the dash (unlikely there happened so many changes in one year) 2. Chrysler had have different foundries / suppliers for one specific part, so to distinguish the axles the different No.`s after the dash. In case of quality issues a way to locate the source (unlikely there were so many suppliers) 3. Mix of 1. and 2. (more likely) 4. Different ratios in different pumpkins (most unlikely, as far as I know there were just 2 different ratios offered, 4.1 standard and 3.9 optional. Eventually also 3.74. Some mention the ratio is stamped onto the pumpkin. So a double indication (encoded via the No. after the dash) would not make sense). Btw, on mine I didn`t find a ration stamp. 5. ....?
  3. What TodFitch explained in words. Illustration of the relief valve function
  4. To bend the steel without damaging its structure it has to bee cherry red / dark orange.* Depending on the type of steel its strength will be reduced more or less after cooling down. But it is possible to give it back the original strength. No professional equipment needed, but a bit knowledge of the tempering colors. A lot of info here -> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_treating Have a closer look to paragraph tempering colors, this will tell you the way to go. You also might try to find more info in the .www, search for `steel heat treating / treatment`. * Notes: Slight bends may be possible without treatment. Larger bends without applying heat will result in a strain hardening. This leads to a higher strength at the bends, but also can cause micro cracks.
  5. Maybe you also keep the eyes open for a black 1939 Plymouth truck .. it belongs to a Forum member, who did a really nice restoration work last year within a few month ! Most likely he will be there. Forgive me Jeff that I publish your PT pictures here, you did a too good job not to show it to the guys here !!!
  6. If the valve flap is still inside, it is probably better (for your you in Sweden) to lock it in the closed position. An open valve would always heat the fuel too much, which leads to the symptom you describe. Some people remove the whole valve system and install a sheet metal plate between the intake and exhaust manifold, which leads to an always closed pre-heating condition. For European climate conditions I would yet recommend a functioning solution. Sometimes I can use it, also in summer (on cooler days) Enclosed a link to the solution, which I installed at my motor. Works very satisfactorily. http://p15-d24.com/topic/40386-heat-riser-valve-do-it-yourself-solution/?tab=comments#comment-428539 Also a link to the tech section, where the heat riser system is explained. http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/heat_riser_adviser.html
  7. Attempt - this is the best quality I could get out of the document, sorry ...
  8. If you mean which limit of tightening torque, there is no torque specified. If you mean how deep: Just screw it down until it stops and torque it "hand tight". Do not apply too much force.
  9. Hi Jeff, there have been some threads regarding speedo adjustment here -> for example http://p15-d24.com/topic/44067-speedometer-gear/ Yo might also try a google search `speedometer correction box` or `speedometer adaptor box`-> https://www.google.de/search?q=speedometer+correction+box&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj3kqmpz-TiAhXC0aQKHbyGDUQQ_AUIESgC&biw=1600&bih=763 Unfortunately I don`t know the thread size of the speedo connector at the transmission. Should be the least problem to figure this out. Good success, Jan
  10. rectum pipe seal #5 ... I will keep that dope in mind for time I am old ... just in case leakage in age is more than steam
  11. Thank you for sharing that source! Unfortunately the link didn`t work (for me) I suppose you are talking about that -> https://www.globeclassiccarparts.com/
  12. PT81Jan

    Gas Gauge

    Cool, I would like to have your `backward fuel system` , too ! The more mls you drive, the fuller is the tank ........ just joking As Plymouthy said, just swap the wires (red arrow). It will not harm your units. That is not a swap of + / - , but a indication reverse. Ground is (if additionally installed / blue arrow) for example at the body of the sender unit. [2-wire sending unit]
  13. link to that subject, posted last year. I`ve drawn some pictures then to explain the relation between float arm and gauge pointer. Maybe that helps to understand how to bend the arm. Worked perfect for me.Full when full. Empty when empty. http://p15-d24.com/topic/47976-adjusting-the-fuel-sender-float/?tab=comments#comment-508910 Hope this helps ? Good luck ! Jan
  14. TFC, that topic has been discussed here for example -> http://p15-d24.com/topic/45136-cracked-block-now-what/ Certainly one of the best solutions that you have. But of course nothing someone can do on a Sunday afternoon ... Welding would also be possible, but would require to pull and dismantle the engine. Also the right equipment and welding skill is required (cast iron). There are also endless examples in the www. Try a search for videos. I totally understand your wish not to pull the engine. So, since your crack seems not to be huge, I personally first would try it less troublesome: 1. Drain the coolant 2. Drill a bore to each end of the crack (to avoid it tears further). But I wouldn`t drill it completely through. Eventually you could get an issue with 6. 3. Carefully / slightly open the crack with a grinder (not too much ! Maybe 1/3 in depth) 4. Thoroughly clean the crack with a solvent cleaner. Dry the area with a hair dryer. Repeat if necessary. 5. Take a 2 component epoxy resin. Mix iron powder to the epoxy. Not too much, it still should be fluent. 6. Fill the crack with the epoxy. Maybe a injection will help. To make the epoxy temporarily thinner, eventually heat the area with a hair dryer. 7. Stick on a good adhesive tape Sounds more complicated than it is. My Dad did this at a crankcase of an light-aircraft (!) He had run it for several years with no issue. Good luck ! Jan
  15. AMAZON UK in stock £43.35 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kraftmann-7682-Extractor-Extender-Silver/dp/B00XGPVT2Y/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=brake+drum+puller&qid=1556393814&s=gateway&sr=8-7 ebay UK £58.02 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Wheel-Hub-Puller-Kit-5-legs-Extractor-Automobile-Tool-Wheel-Hub/233181317493?hash=item364ab08975:g:i-gAAOSwuG1cnKzq similar one John Reddie mentioned AMAZON UK in stock £29.99 https://www.amazon.co.uk/450741-Heavy-Universal-Puller-Remover/dp/B00K30S1US/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=brake+puller&qid=1556394771&s=gateway&sr=8-6
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