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PT81Jan last won the day on April 27 2018

PT81Jan had the most liked content!


About PT81Jan

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 04/12/1971

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Germany; Friedrichshafen
  • Interests
    Especially Bikes and Cars of the 30s and 40s with Flathead engines (others are also welcome!)
  • My Project Cars
    - 1939 Plymouth PT81 Pickup Truck<br />
    - (1942 HD-WLA)

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    born 1971, married, children, 1st occupation: patternmaker, 2nd occupation: engineering technician
  • Occupation
    Designer / Engine Development


  • Location
  • Interests
    Still love my PT81

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1,129 profile views
  1. It is not very complicated to do the adjustment, I have done it also for the first time two years ago. Just a bit patience needed and first to understand how the parts work together. There are different reasons why the gears are hard to turn. Do you have a manual which shows your type of diff ? Sorry mine is a little different. Maybe that helps a bit ? -> https://p15-d24.com/topic/40534-differential-disassembly/?tab=comments#comment-430298 -> #3
  2. Watch the cat ... some tend to light the shop ... and then you also will be a member of a burnt vehicle club .. 😉 (no offend intended !)
  3. Most likely I will never have to contact that source (hmm, how knows ...) But because of my location I know how hard it can be to find parts... So I really like your intention to help others with that info. Hey, that`s one of the reasons why we all meet here, isn`t it ?!
  4. Here you are Roland -> https://www.flipperteile.com/de/Schalter---Kontakte/Kontakt-Einzelteile/Kontaktniete--Wolfram-D-4-5mm.html I didn`t post it, because it is a German source and so maybe not so interesting for most of folks here. My search key words were "Ersatzteile flipper" Yes, I think you alternatively could use ignition points instead. But most of them are also no longer of good quality ... Good luck ! Jan Ah, and: I am very satisfied with the quality of the flipper machine contacts. After one year of regularly use they still look like new.
  5. Yes and Yes. > replaceable -> see here in a former post, when I had to replace them: https://p15-d24.com/topic/48964-worn-breaker-points-replacement-source/ (only correction is that I had to solder them in place instead of punching) > adjustable -> see pics
  6. My kit included an instruction. Posted that some time ago -> https://p15-d24.com/topic/46957-brass-manifold-nuts-and-washers/?tab=comments#comment-498478 Hope this helps. Jan
  7. That is a "Rohrzange" / kind of "Wasserpumpenzange" 😁 translator says "pipe wrench" also called Sweden pliers, so not Erich`s pliers 😉 https://www.google.de/search?biw=1600&bih=763&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=f29-XZvpL9DMwQKGpLOAAg&q=Rohrzange&oq=Rohrzange&gs_l=img.3..0l10.21013.21663..23131...0.0..
  8. Hey Bob, I do not really have an answer for you, just a guess Another forum member here was asking a similar question some time ago regarding his 1939 Plymouth Pickup. His one has got the casting No. 663473-28 My 1939 PT has got the casting No. 663473-4 Both were originally equipped withe the 4.1 ratio gears, same axle dimensions. 1939 Dodge and Plymouth Trucks are practically the same. So I assume the axles are also pretty much the same. Here my guess(es): 1. series =663473, changes marked by the separate No. after the dash (unlikely there happened so many changes in one year) 2. Chrysler had have different foundries / suppliers for one specific part, so to distinguish the axles the different No.`s after the dash. In case of quality issues a way to locate the source (unlikely there were so many suppliers) 3. Mix of 1. and 2. (more likely) 4. Different ratios in different pumpkins (most unlikely, as far as I know there were just 2 different ratios offered, 4.1 standard and 3.9 optional. Eventually also 3.74. Some mention the ratio is stamped onto the pumpkin. So a double indication (encoded via the No. after the dash) would not make sense). Btw, on mine I didn`t find a ration stamp. 5. ....?
  9. What TodFitch explained in words. Illustration of the relief valve function
  10. To bend the steel without damaging its structure it has to bee cherry red / dark orange.* Depending on the type of steel its strength will be reduced more or less after cooling down. But it is possible to give it back the original strength. No professional equipment needed, but a bit knowledge of the tempering colors. A lot of info here -> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_treating Have a closer look to paragraph tempering colors, this will tell you the way to go. You also might try to find more info in the .www, search for `steel heat treating / treatment`. * Notes: Slight bends may be possible without treatment. Larger bends without applying heat will result in a strain hardening. This leads to a higher strength at the bends, but also can cause micro cracks.
  11. Maybe you also keep the eyes open for a black 1939 Plymouth truck .. it belongs to a Forum member, who did a really nice restoration work last year within a few month ! Most likely he will be there. Forgive me Jeff that I publish your PT pictures here, you did a too good job not to show it to the guys here !!!
  12. If the valve flap is still inside, it is probably better (for your you in Sweden) to lock it in the closed position. An open valve would always heat the fuel too much, which leads to the symptom you describe. Some people remove the whole valve system and install a sheet metal plate between the intake and exhaust manifold, which leads to an always closed pre-heating condition. For European climate conditions I would yet recommend a functioning solution. Sometimes I can use it, also in summer (on cooler days) Enclosed a link to the solution, which I installed at my motor. Works very satisfactorily. http://p15-d24.com/topic/40386-heat-riser-valve-do-it-yourself-solution/?tab=comments#comment-428539 Also a link to the tech section, where the heat riser system is explained. http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/heat_riser_adviser.html
  13. Attempt - this is the best quality I could get out of the document, sorry ...
  14. If you mean which limit of tightening torque, there is no torque specified. If you mean how deep: Just screw it down until it stops and torque it "hand tight". Do not apply too much force.
  15. Hi Jeff, there have been some threads regarding speedo adjustment here -> for example http://p15-d24.com/topic/44067-speedometer-gear/ Yo might also try a google search `speedometer correction box` or `speedometer adaptor box`-> https://www.google.de/search?q=speedometer+correction+box&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj3kqmpz-TiAhXC0aQKHbyGDUQQ_AUIESgC&biw=1600&bih=763 Unfortunately I don`t know the thread size of the speedo connector at the transmission. Should be the least problem to figure this out. Good success, Jan
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