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PT81Jan last won the day on April 27 2018

PT81Jan had the most liked content!


About PT81Jan

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 04/12/1971

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Germany; Friedrichshafen
  • Interests
    Especially Bikes and Cars of the 30s and 40s with Flathead engines (others are also welcome!)
  • My Project Cars
    - 1939 Plymouth PT81 Pickup Truck<br />
    - (1942 HD-WLA)

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    born 1971, married, children, 1st occupation: patternmaker, 2nd occupation: engineering technician
  • Occupation
    Designer / Engine Development


  • Location
  • Interests
    Still love my PT81

Recent Profile Visitors

1,234 profile views
  1. Edward, not in a Dodge D100, but maybe can give you an idea how to create a tray and how to mount it. -> https://p15-d24.com/topic/43933-where-under-hood-battery-location/?tab=comments#comment-467591
  2. I cannot tell you about MAHLE head gasket, but my experience with BEST GASKET and FEL-PRO. I had to pull the head of my 218 (23" block) after approx. 5k miles after rebuild due to a problem with a bearing. I replaced the cylinder head gasket by a new one then. She same type as before, BEST GASKET 523 (composite - both surfaces with copper layer on a graphite filler sheet.) After another 5k miles I got a gasket failure between cylinder 5 and 6 (left gasket in the pictures, see red circle). Of course, if the head gasket fails, I would expect it there. But I rather would have expected it doesn`t fail at all: Block and head where milled and head bolts really scrupulously torqued. Re-tightened according to specs after a couple of miles until the gasket finally set. Additionally I noticed then, that my first BEST GASKET 523 showed traces of burns a the same place (center gasket in the pictures). I replaced the damaged gasket by a FEL-PRO 7564 C (copper layer just on the block side). Up to now approx 5k miles on it. Observation: BEST GASKET 523 made a good impression to me, looks high quality. 2 times retorqued until gasket finally set. Failed. FEL-PRO 7564 C looks o.k. but not very high quality. The copper layer showed tendency to peel off. 3 or 4 times retorqued until gasket finally set. Works up to now. I cannot tell you, if the FEL-PRO is better, because the running times is the same so far. But since the BEST GASKET failed in one case and showed traces of burn at another gasket despite flat, milled head and block surfaces and correct tightening, it was time to try another type. Probably doesn`t really help to decide which way to go. Just my experience, others may have got other experiences ...
  3. Hello PT81Jan, I’ve been reading through a post from a couple years back regarding the door latch and drooping handles.  I see the repair you made and I want to fix mine as well.  When you disassembled the latch to weld, were there any rivets that you had to drill through?  I haven’t taken my latch assembly apart and was wondering how it comes apart to fix? 

    Thanks in advance for the assist!


    1. PT81Jan


      Hi Steve, sorry for my late reply, I was not very active the last weeks.
      No, there weren`t any rivets but 2 sheet metal tongues / lashes which I had to bend open.That Of course one of it broke. Not an issue, could it after the latch repair with a weld spot. See picture red arrow (welded from the back side). As far as I remember that is the only part which holds the whole assembly together.

      Let me know, if you need more info !

      Best regards, Jan


    2. Fiddy B2C

      Fiddy B2C

      Nice, thanks!

  4. Trying to answer your questions: 1st - voltage regulator: I am not aware which regulator WC`s originally have got installed . The picture below is out of a Delco Remy Service Bulletin. In doubt search the www. using your regulator type / part-No. as keywords, I am sure you`ll find plenty of info. 2nd - clutch installation: easy to not too difficult. O.k., since you asked, I assume you didn`t install a clutch before (?) I don`t know your skills, so forgive me, if I am too basic. > Do you have a manual available ? This will help with the basic questions. > Tools: Essentially you need some spanners, better a ratchet wrench, even better a torque wrench. The only special tool which should be used is a centering guide. Or a tube which helps to align / center the clutch disk (where the red arrow in the picture is) > There are several steps, installation of the clutch parts (pressure plate, disc, springs, cover, etc.) itselves, installation of throw-out bearing, actuating fork lever (sorry, if i use wrong words), clutch linkage ... maybe sounds difficult, isn`t if someone has a bit of a feeling for technical things. If you need more assistance yo`ll get it. Just ask.
  5. It is not very complicated to do the adjustment, I have done it also for the first time two years ago. Just a bit patience needed and first to understand how the parts work together. There are different reasons why the gears are hard to turn. Do you have a manual which shows your type of diff ? Sorry mine is a little different. Maybe that helps a bit ? -> https://p15-d24.com/topic/40534-differential-disassembly/?tab=comments#comment-430298 -> #3
  6. Watch the cat ... some tend to light the shop ... and then you also will be a member of a burnt vehicle club .. 😉 (no offend intended !)
  7. Most likely I will never have to contact that source (hmm, how knows ...) But because of my location I know how hard it can be to find parts... So I really like your intention to help others with that info. Hey, that`s one of the reasons why we all meet here, isn`t it ?!
  8. Here you are Roland -> https://www.flipperteile.com/de/Schalter---Kontakte/Kontakt-Einzelteile/Kontaktniete--Wolfram-D-4-5mm.html I didn`t post it, because it is a German source and so maybe not so interesting for most of folks here. My search key words were "Ersatzteile flipper" Yes, I think you alternatively could use ignition points instead. But most of them are also no longer of good quality ... Good luck ! Jan Ah, and: I am very satisfied with the quality of the flipper machine contacts. After one year of regularly use they still look like new.
  9. Yes and Yes. > replaceable -> see here in a former post, when I had to replace them: https://p15-d24.com/topic/48964-worn-breaker-points-replacement-source/ (only correction is that I had to solder them in place instead of punching) > adjustable -> see pics
  10. My kit included an instruction. Posted that some time ago -> https://p15-d24.com/topic/46957-brass-manifold-nuts-and-washers/?tab=comments#comment-498478 Hope this helps. Jan
  11. That is a "Rohrzange" / kind of "Wasserpumpenzange" 😁 translator says "pipe wrench" also called Sweden pliers, so not Erich`s pliers 😉 https://www.google.de/search?biw=1600&bih=763&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=f29-XZvpL9DMwQKGpLOAAg&q=Rohrzange&oq=Rohrzange&gs_l=img.3..0l10.21013.21663..23131...0.0..
  12. Hey Bob, I do not really have an answer for you, just a guess Another forum member here was asking a similar question some time ago regarding his 1939 Plymouth Pickup. His one has got the casting No. 663473-28 My 1939 PT has got the casting No. 663473-4 Both were originally equipped withe the 4.1 ratio gears, same axle dimensions. 1939 Dodge and Plymouth Trucks are practically the same. So I assume the axles are also pretty much the same. Here my guess(es): 1. series =663473, changes marked by the separate No. after the dash (unlikely there happened so many changes in one year) 2. Chrysler had have different foundries / suppliers for one specific part, so to distinguish the axles the different No.`s after the dash. In case of quality issues a way to locate the source (unlikely there were so many suppliers) 3. Mix of 1. and 2. (more likely) 4. Different ratios in different pumpkins (most unlikely, as far as I know there were just 2 different ratios offered, 4.1 standard and 3.9 optional. Eventually also 3.74. Some mention the ratio is stamped onto the pumpkin. So a double indication (encoded via the No. after the dash) would not make sense). Btw, on mine I didn`t find a ration stamp. 5. ....?
  13. What TodFitch explained in words. Illustration of the relief valve function
  14. To bend the steel without damaging its structure it has to bee cherry red / dark orange.* Depending on the type of steel its strength will be reduced more or less after cooling down. But it is possible to give it back the original strength. No professional equipment needed, but a bit knowledge of the tempering colors. A lot of info here -> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_treating Have a closer look to paragraph tempering colors, this will tell you the way to go. You also might try to find more info in the .www, search for `steel heat treating / treatment`. * Notes: Slight bends may be possible without treatment. Larger bends without applying heat will result in a strain hardening. This leads to a higher strength at the bends, but also can cause micro cracks.
  15. Maybe you also keep the eyes open for a black 1939 Plymouth truck .. it belongs to a Forum member, who did a really nice restoration work last year within a few month ! Most likely he will be there. Forgive me Jeff that I publish your PT pictures here, you did a too good job not to show it to the guys here !!!
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