Coolant leaking out of the clutch housing?

[temecularevev]

Hi Again,

While working under the 49' I noticed coolant dripping out of the clutch housing cover (there is a small drain hole). I know there are a few expansion (freeze) plugs on the drivers side of the engine that are leaking. So is there a plug behind the flywheel? is this where the coolant coming from? Any ideas?

 

As always, thanks,

Craig

[rcl700]

230 block has two coolant plugs behind pressure plate.

[temecularevev]

I suspected there must be a plug behind the flywheel, but unfortunately, my flywheel will not drop out of the clutch (bell) housing to make access to the plugs. I guess the only way to access is to remove the engine. UGH!!!

Thanks for the info and photo.

 

Craig

[FarmerJon]

I was able to sneak my flywheel out of the bell by knocking the bolts halfway out (torwards engine) This gave JUST enough room to get the wheel off. YMMV, but worth a shot.

 

Edit to clarify: my transmission was removed before pulling flywheel

Edited February 19 by FarmerJon

[Sam Buchanan]

10 hours ago, temecularevev said:

I suspected there must be a plug behind the flywheel, but unfortunately, my flywheel will not drop out of the clutch (bell) housing to make access to the plugs. I guess the only way to access is to remove the engine. UGH!!!

Thanks for the info and photo.

 

Craig

 

I think pulling the transmission would be much simpler than pulling the engine.

[temecularevev]

The trans is out, I'm changing the clutch. but I can not get the flywheel to drop out of the clutch housing. Too tight a space and the flywheel gets wedged when I try and drop it down. Pressure plate and clutch disk are out, but not the flywheel to make access to the plugs.

[Sam Buchanan]

I had to drop the oil pan and rear main cap to provide clearance to remove the flywheel bolts so the flywheel could be dropped out of the bell housing. 

[Sniper]

21 hours ago, rcl700 said:

230 block has two coolant plugs behind pressure plate.

 

Pretty sure the one on the right is just the rear cover for the cam tunnel, not a coolant passageway.  The one on the left is a coolant passageway and you are likely going to have to pull the bell housing to get to it anyway.

[desoto1939]

If and when you replace the welsh plug get the ones in BRASS especially for this location on the back of the block. Most welsh plugs are galvanized plugs but the brass will not rust out.

 

Also if the engine gets pulled then change all of these plugs over to brass, done once and should not have to worry about them for a very long time. Also get the flat style and not the cup style.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com 

[temecularevev]

At this point, looks like "Stop Leak" will be the temporary solution until such time as I pull the engine.

 

Thanks everyone for your knowledge and help. 

 

Craig

[Sam Buchanan]

18 minutes ago, temecularevev said:

At this point, looks like "Stop Leak" will be the temporary solution until such time as I pull the engine.

 

Thanks everyone for your knowledge and help. 

 

Craig

 

Don't know if I would want that stuff in my rare and expensive honeycomb radiator....................

[Sniper]

3 hours ago, temecularevev said:

At this point, looks like "Stop Leak" will be the temporary solution until such time as I pull the engine.

 

Thanks everyone for your knowledge and help. 

 

Craig

 

Stop leak won't.  It'll just let you find the next weakest point, BTDT.

[Young Ed]

I was watching YouTube I think Vicegrip garage and they called the manufacturer of the stop leak. They aren't designed for our old none pressure systems. 

[Los_Control]

Seems all the products today are made for aluminum radiators .... I bought some and was considering it .... my honeycomb radiator was leaking and I would never pay the price to repair it.

Then I got to thinking about the good heater core .... I was not going to take a chance with it.

 

Sad as it is to say, if you have 3 soft plugs leaking now .... I wonder what the water distribution tube looks like?

Or even what temperature the engine is running at now? Or how much crud has settled behind the plugs.

Might be a good time to fix it correctly.

[andyd]

Dunno if this might help but an old trick when any sort of radiator stop leak wasn't available was to use black pepper, a couple of tablespoons thrown in the radiator, the pepper acted like a plug to prevent water escaping........dunno how long it lasted but might be worth a try..........andyd 

[sjaakslinger]

On 2/18/2025 at 8:01 PM, temecularevev said:

Hi Again,

While working under the 49' I noticed coolant dripping out of the clutch housing cover (there is a small drain hole). I know there are a few expansion (freeze) plugs on the drivers side of the engine that are leaking. So is there a plug behind the flywheel? is this where the coolant coming from? Any ideas?

 

As always, thanks,

Craig

 

Do you a picture of this drain hole? 

 

Dennis

[andyd]

The drain hole I think he refers to is the slot/hole thats in the bottom of the pressed steel clutch inspection cover that is bolted onto the cast iron bellhousing that is used on our 6 cylinder mopars..........thats the only drain hole I know of ........andyd

[greg g]

There are 2 or three welch plugs on the back end of the block.  They are coverd by the bell housing.i think 1 of them is behind the cam supports the rearmost cam bearing the other/s. Are coolant system related.  If its a small leak, maybe some medicated goo leak stopper would seal it.  If some one had pics of the back end of the block, they might put them up for you too see them. Replacing them is an engine out deal i think.  Then another can of worms gets kicked over.

 

[dpollo]

As others have correctly pointed out, there is a "frost" plug behind the bell housing.  1 5/8,  usually brass.  The bad news is that the bell housing must also be removed.   Good news is that the plug cannot fall out completely  because the bell housing holds it in.   The only practical way to properly change this plug is to remove the engine.    Been there, done that.  

[DJK]

On 2/19/2025 at 4:42 PM, temecularevev said:

At this point, looks like "Stop Leak" will be the temporary solution until such time as I pull the engine.

 

Thanks everyone for your knowledge and help. 

 

Craig

I have found Bars Leak liquid aluminum works very well with no harm to the heater core or radiator.

Edited Thursday at 01:16 AM by DJK