New member, new concerned owner

[1948 coupe 808]

Hi everyone, bought a 48 business coupe, non running, and now shopping for the parts I’m getting really concerned. Prices I’m seeing is ridiculous for everything I need.. brakes, wiring, fuel system… wondering if I made a mistake or I just looking at the wrong places. Fuel tank alone $475, one drum is over $400, I bought cars for less than one drum for Plymouth. Is that what it takes to get parts for these ? I have couple 60s cars and nothing is even close. I feel like I made a mistake buying this beautiful coupe 

[Plymouthy Adams]

pay to play if you wish it stock, if you want to upgrade a bit axles and disc brakes can be had for little money tad of sweat equity....cost of living going up, change of living going down

[harmony]

Would you be getting parts shipped from the mainland or do you have suppliers on the Island?

[Ivan_B]

There is nothing on the island, this is probably the only 48 Plymouth as well ?

$400 for a drum? Is it gold-plated? Shop around, old NOS parts and aftermarket alternatives are still available. Look on Facebook and Craigslist, many sellers will ship if you ask them nicely, or there are people on this very forum who'll probably buy stuff locally and forward it to you.

In general, however, the more complete/stock/working the car is, the better off you are (unless you are really into never-ending-projects, that is)

[desoto1939]

Yes we are all feeling the prices going up for these old car parts. Have to remember that these car parts were made approx 50-70 years ago, so the supply is now getting smaller of NOS parts.  I have a 1939 Desoto and only 33000 were made so just think how many NOS parts are now avialable for this only 1 year model of Desoto.

 

I feel your pain.

 

Rich Hartung

[OUTFXD]

Just do a little bit every weekend.  It adds up fast. and soon you will have a car to be proud of! 

 

 

[Young Ed]

Sounds like you're shopping moparpro. He's having those drums made and they're $$$. But check your existing ones first. They're well made and quite possibly still good. I think I've heard of others getting gas tanks for about $300 off ebay 

[Sniper]

30 minutes ago, Young Ed said:

Sounds like you're shopping moparpro.

 

Lol, his gas tank on Amazon is $200 more than the same tank off his website.

 

Shop around,

 

https://fueltanks.com/products/1940-1948-new-reproduction-gas-fuel-tank-for-dodge-desoto-chrysler-and-plymouth-vintage-cars

[Sniper]

New rear drums, $89

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/312278878867?hash=item48b5458a93%3Ag%3AuREAAOSwqRBbR6R5&fits=Year%3A1948|Model%3AP15+Deluxe|Make%3APlymouth

[Dartgame]

Prices on everything, not just car parts, is and has been on the rise. I shop incessantly when I am looking for parts. There are deals to be had as mentioned above on ebay. Don't forget to look at Rock Auto, they often have some unexpected items at low prices. 

[Plymouthy Adams]

I will add but one more comment to the folks entering this hobby or any hobby for that matter, but the accelerated cost in this hobby can get out of control quick and spiral downward and leave one feeling hostage.  Price of parts is just a small part of the costs, you have shipping to consider.  Receiving parts that are not up to parr in design and application.  The aggravation of dealing with that and backing up as you search for another alternative will have you questioning is this worth it.  IT IS WORTH IT but, if you are not a DIYer with the skill sets, time and space to work nor willing to read how things work, and embrace new needed skills to learn and put into place and instead farm this out, you are going to be upside down leaving the starting gate.  However, as a DIYer and one that is proactive in chasing parts, constantly staying abreast of the changing industry, adapting and overcoming by learning and building confidence you cand do this, you can be very successful with your build.  Stick around here a bit, you can research this forum for almost any phase or item of the intended build on your car and get guidance to move forward without breaking the bank or the car and most importantly, your resolve to see this through.  Good luck, keep your chin up and prepare now to finish the race.

[greg g]

Here is a caution re brake drums.  The original braking system design has a cast iron drum riveted to a steel hub.  The hub carries the load transferred from the wheels to the axles.  The drum is carried along for the ride until the brakes are applied, then the braking forces are transferred to the steel hub through the rivets.  Some of the replacement drums do away with the hub, meaning the cast iron must carry the lug bolts, the weight and the braking forces in just the cast iron.  I wonder if any engineering studies have been done on these parts?  Do you have the original pieces, what's wrong with them?  

[Plymouthy Adams]

this style of drum and hub has been Mopars go to since 1965..(and most the industry)..where the difference is mainly bolt over stud...many manufacturers using this set up also keep the drum to the hub from falling off by use of at best a 1/4-28 countersunk screw....and the small screw I have never see broken or damaged except by using the wrong fitting tool for removal

[greg g]

Are you agreeing or disagreeing with my concern regarding the intigral  cast drum and hub.  I also wonder about the cast iron to steel interface on the axle.

[keithb7]

I always keep an eye out for used parts. If one has room for a fun old car hobby, they likely have room for some spare parts. I constantly see hot-rodders ripping out powertrain and steering parts. Engines etc. I pick these parts up for cheap. I pick the components apart and keep what I think I’ll need. I had so many spare spare drums I measured them. I kept the best 4 spares for each of my two old Mopars. The rest went to scrap steel recycling. I hate to do that but freight is so expensive nobody wants to have drums shipped. I bought a lot of old parts for $100. I stripped them all down. Kept everything I wanted, then got $80 back for the leftover steel scrap that I took away. I have a spare 25” block. Crank. Head. Manifolds. Carbs. Drums. Flywheels. 3 different diff ratio assemblies. I could go on. In the end the spare parts have cost me little to nothing.  Wear parts like seals, rubber parts etc, I buy ‘em as needed. I’ve learned where to get things and save money.  The big Mopar dealers I dealt with in the beginning because I didn’t know of other options. They don’t get much of my cash any more. The self proclaimed mopar pro, I’ve ex-communicated. Partially for personal reasons. Yet also for parts quality and business practices. 
 

Everything is going up in price. Believe it, the good old days are today. Prices will never be what they  were. Ya gotta pay to play but you indeed can find ways to save. I’m pretty frugal. Heck I even have a YT channel that helps fund my Mopar parts needs. Lol. 

[Plymouthy Adams]

1 hour ago, greg g said:

Are you agreeing or disagreeing with my concern regarding the intigral  cast drum and hub.  I also wonder about the cast iron to steel interface on the axle.

the basic design is solid, if the drum is centric and flush, there is no mechanical concerns really....now...as to the very part supplied as pictured...I have never had one in my hand to say it is built to fit properly.  (this is likely what the B-body boys do with the pre 65 muscle car axles and hubs.   I will say this....on the P15 when removing the drum from the hub, you will find a step that will have to be removed on a lathe to make the hub register correct so the very base of the hub the drum will fit flush and align.  I just last fall did a hub separation, lathe cut and fitted 1989 brake drum but went the extra mile to also fit the donor backing plate, will be one or two other small mods to match plate to housing...sacrifice of the originals for the seals.  The average person would not this route and stick with the fixed shoes but floaters and self adjusters are the only way to go.  I have about 13 pictures of this process.  

[1948 coupe 808]

Thank you for all the replies, I’m surprised that I got any replies at all. I have to give some more information about what’s going on. I bought this coupe in Minnesota with a goal to ship and restore it in Hawaii. Car is still in Minnesota, looks complete, rolling, I was able to start it by messing with timing, jumping starter and pouring gas in the carb. Compression is low around 60 on 5 cylinders and 20 on six, put oil in 6 and nothing changed so I’m convinced that valve is stuck open or out of adjustment. Car doesn’t brake at all, so I know I need to do complete brake job. Im sure I need clutch (guy I bought it from said that) I need complete fuel system, radiator hoses etc. I can do some work at the guy’s property (probably not too much, but I think he’s ok with me working there couple days) I was planning buy and ship all the heavy stuff there and put on the car so I save on shipping. My original and unrealistic plan was to make it run and take back roads to west coast. Today I’m thinking I’ll tow it to Spokane WA, where I have a buddy that lives on 20 acres and do most work there since it’s closer to me and he owes me favors ?. After it’s running I still want to drive it to west coast before shipping- you know memories and road trip, that kind of stuff. I will be ordering stuff next week and will be flying over probably in about 3-5 weeks from now to work on it 

[1948 coupe 808]

On 7/29/2023 at 4:31 AM, Sniper said:

 

Lol, his gas tank on Amazon is $200 more than the same tank off his website.

 

Shop around,

 

https://fueltanks.com/products/1940-1948-new-reproduction-gas-fuel-tank-for-dodge-desoto-chrysler-and-plymouth-vintage-cars

How do you add tank in the shopping cart it ? It only shows Amazon button?! 

[Sniper]

Those are some pretty holy floors and the Plymouth Doctor is no longer making them.

[1948 coupe 808]

23 minutes ago, Sniper said:

Those are some pretty holy floors and the Plymouth Doctor is no longer making them.

I bought front main peace for it already, rest of it I can make it, I can weld and do amateur body work. Now upholstery is biggest concern, I could not find anything except carpet. 
btw does anyone make bolt in exhaust system?

[keithb7]

I’m jealous of the beloved 6 blade fan. I hope to land one locally some day. I keep my eyes peeled. 

[Los_Control]

I want to wish you good luck with the project. .... you are really cutting time close.

Steal a stop sign to cover the floor .... throw a blanket over the seat ..... does the radiator hold water? .... thinking I would replace it for a road trip.

 

My thoughts on running short of time,

Just now, 1948 coupe 808 said:

will be flying over probably in about 3-5 weeks from now to work on it 

Almost the first of August now. I was born in the Seattle/Tacoma area. The first year I moved to Spokane to manage a new shop in the company .... It snowed on Halloween & I never saw the ground again until spring. ..... So you are leaving yourself a window of about 8 weeks to work in. .... Unless your buddy has a heated shop?

 

8 weeks to prepare a old car for a road trip that can be difficult finding parts for ..... I'm assuming you will need all new wiring. All new brake & fuel lines All new hydraulics for the brakes..... probably get a rebuild kit for the carb .... at least take it apart & clean it.

 

The motor runs, I'm not worried about the compression ..... honestly it is not too bad. Remember they have cast iron rings & aluminum pistons ..... the rings tend to stick to the pistons, they wont release & spin or seat properly after sitting .... A stuck valve would suggest zero compression for that cylinder. Your engine sounds fine. A few heat cycles & a road trip should improve it.

What about the clutch, transmission, rear end ..... shift linkage .......Tires wheels .... charging system ..... U-joints <---- trust me the old mopar u-joints are a special treat depending which one's you have.

 

Dude I wish you luck, what my vision is. @1948 coupe 808 is trying to shove 10 pounds of **** into a 5 pound container ..... I've seen it done before and have the greatest respect for those that can do it ..... Nothing I want to try though.

 

[1948 coupe 808]

2 hours ago, Los_Control said:

I want to wish you good luck with the project. .... you are really cutting time close.

Steal a stop sign to cover the floor .... throw a blanket over the seat ..... does the radiator hold water? .... thinking I would replace it for a road trip.

 

My thoughts on running short of time,

Almost the first of August now. I was born in the Seattle/Tacoma area. The first year I moved to Spokane to manage a new shop in the company .... It snowed on Halloween & I never saw the ground again until spring. ..... So you are leaving yourself a window of about 8 weeks to work in. .... Unless your buddy has a heated shop?

 

8 weeks to prepare a old car for a road trip that can be difficult finding parts for ..... I'm assuming you will need all new wiring. All new brake & fuel lines All new hydraulics for the brakes..... probably get a rebuild kit for the carb .... at least take it apart & clean it.

 

The motor runs, I'm not worried about the compression ..... honestly it is not too bad. Remember they have cast iron rings & aluminum pistons ..... the rings tend to stick to the pistons, they wont release & spin or seat properly after sitting .... A stuck valve would suggest zero compression for that cylinder. Your engine sounds fine. A few heat cycles & a road trip should improve it.

What about the clutch, transmission, rear end ..... shift linkage .......Tires wheels .... charging system ..... U-joints <---- trust me the old mopar u-joints are a special treat depending which one's you have.

 

Dude I wish you luck, what my vision is. @1948 coupe 808 is trying to shove 10 pounds of **** into a 5 pound container ..... I've seen it done before and have the greatest respect for those that can do it ..... Nothing I want to try though.

 

I think I do that a lot, trying something that is not very smart or makes sense… I do question myself, but it’s hard to change when you dumb ? 

[Los_Control]

Beautiful car you will love it..

Very common to slap a jeep cherokee or Ford explorer  rear end into the car to get modern brakes & highway gears. Build a new drive line.

I will swap in a new drive line to get rid of the Cleveland  u-joints on my truck ..... your Trunion u-joints with a leather boot is a whole new story .... How perfect do you want this car?

 

Hey for the short distance from Spokane to the coast it may be fine. .... It will love climbing the pass to get from Eastern Washington to Western Washington.

 

I'm hoping you come back later & tell me the old Dodge loved the drive.

[1948 coupe 808]

Ok, first what is Trunion u-joints? I want to keep it as original as possible. I like old crap and designs. I’m not trying to have a show car, but definitely mechanically sound with clean interior and decent paint to protect from elements