Build Thread - Elise - Chrysler 48 Windsor

[wagoneer]

Hello friends,

  This is my build thread for my 1948 Chrysler Windsor. I've had several ad-hoc threads, but no cohesive thread as Elise (not to be confused with my 1950 B2B also named Elise). This build thread is special - as my son and I (and the rest of family) have entered into the 2022 Great Race with Elise. We are VERY excited, and I am excited to get Elise into proper shape for the rally race. 

 

There are many things on my list of to-do items, and I would like to share my preparation journey with you all, and also document the race. This is a really special event for my three boys and myself to participate. I particularly enjoy the process as well as teaching them how the vehicle works, and learning myself as I go. 

 

Most of my preparation has to happen over the next 6 weeks, but on my near term list of to do items include:

 

1. Rebuild Carburetor

2. Install Alternator

3. Fix frayed wiring

4. Tune up (points, cap, rotor, timing, wires)

5. Electric fan

6. new tires (balance/align)

7. Brakes - adjust

8. Change oils

9. Race Speedometer

10. 7 wire turn signals (rewire turns for brake+turn and flashers)

11. Miscellaneous survival requirements for race

12. Optima battery

13. Figure out how to get to RI and Back from ND cheaply

14. Practice runs (50, 100, 500 miles)

15. 200 mile tank minimum

 

Elise is overall in very good shape, and generally has been driven lightly over the last 24 years (3 thousand miles). Well maintained, and has always run well, but this race will double the total miles.

 

 

Edited December 30, 2021 by wagoneer

[Young Ed]

Wow what a route! Last time it was in the area I met up with the group to meet in person a guy from the 39-47 dodge truck group. Might have to do that again! 

[LazyK]

Good Luck! Cheyenne was an over night stop several years back, was interesting to see the variety of vehicles and hear their stories. 

[wagoneer]

1. The Carburetor Revolutions

 

I have taken on the carburetor rebuild - something that has sorely been needed for quite some time, and I am surprised how easy AND how clever/tricky the Carter B&B EV1 carburetor can be. This has been on my roadmap for at least a year, and like any good restorer, I've been stocking up on parts: I pulled the rebuild kit out of the box, and all the specialty Carter tools that I bought (Turns out I needed them too). 

 

The results are fantastic (and a bit ongoing). Amazing things happen when your carburetor no longer leaks, and properly functions - such as my oil pressure is at 40 for the first time that I remember, my idle ... idles at 450, and my 3->4 automatic upshift .... works!!! A working dashpot allows me to brake at the light without pushing the clutch in to prevent stalling. I am AMAZED how much better the car is overall. Shifts to reverse are much more smooth than before (all thanks due to lower oil pressure that is key to the whole fluid drive mechanism). 

 

Over the last 3 days, I must have fully rebuilt this carburetor 4 times, and taken apart and put it back together at least another 15 times. The EV1 is the special version that comes with the 46-48 6 cylinder Chryslers that all have fluid drive, and thus also have special kick down button,  Fluid drive electronics, and an automatic dashpot.

 

I followed along with the directions that were in the shop manual, the directions from Carter (here in the  downloads), a great video from Mike's Carburetor, and the provided directions, and there were a lot of similarities but differences enough as well as many nuances that were not in any of those documents. In addition, you remember that you need your wits about you as somebody was in these parts before, and you are looking for parts that fit and make it work as original, but even the replacement parts don't necessarily work right.. Then you start thinking HOW the car should behave, and how the parts of the carburetor so cleverly enable "simple" mechanism like fast idle, kick down, or even acceleration through the accelerator pump. Only once you understand what the behavior should be, and how the pieces fit together, do the instructions start making more sense.

 

Therefore, I must have put together pieces 15 times until small tidbits like the fast idle cam started making "sense", and then when you read the docs and watch the videos again, you watch them with a new perspective.  

 

I also crossed 14500! That is likely 114500 but the engine was totally rebuilt probably about 20 years go (my best guess), but the car drives like it's 14,500. (Ignore the heat sensor, it's on the list of things to replace -- I have the NOS replacement waiting it's turn in the queue).

 

 

 

a) For example, the you have to put the  fast-idle cam behind the throttle linkage arm by spinning the throttle all the way back and then putting the fast idle cam backwards on it, and then it all slides together. In addition, the linkage arm connecting the fast idle cam to the choke lever are keyed on both ends AND does NOT  connect if the carburetor horn is bolted on top (as directed per some directions). You have to put the arm into the keyed slot for the fast idle cam first, flip the horn over (unscrewed of course), connect it and then flip it back over and lay it on top the prepared throttle body (careful not to knock out the spring covering the special dashpot connection).

 

Here's a special little tidbit just in this connection that wasn't obvious to me -- The fast idle cam linkage is connected to the choke linkage, so when you start your car with the choke on, the car should warm up with the fast idle cam pushing the throttle and warm up quickly...but also when you push the accelerator, the fast idle cam will slip and pull OPEN the choke via a small metal piece at the choke linkage along with releasing the fast idle cam... which made me think, why wasn't mine slipping and opening the choke too? I need to lube the fast idle cam so it move freely and thus has this behavior.

 

 

b) Did you know that the ONLY complete diagram of the EV1 is in the parts manual and now here....  Every other diagram omits all the special EV1 equipment for the Chrysler fluid drives. 

 

 

 

c) The carburetor horn is very easy to take on and off, and really you just need a flathead to make most adjustments. I was "scared" before, and I would say to anybody who hasn't rebuilt a carburetor, to do so even if it's a spare one. You learn a ton doing it, and then a ton more making it work on the car by fixing all. your earlier mistakes over and over.

 

d) Adjusting the float is very tricky, and how millimeters matter for the float to not flood or starve the carb amazes me. I initially set mine to factory 5/64  (using Carter tool), but that was too rich so I put it closer to 4/32 (1/8) after a number of trials

 

e) I've been fighting the accelerator pump ALL day - I couldn't get my pump to spray strong enough, and I would have a delayed acceleration or stall out! I followed instructions and bent down and bent up but I couldn't get a good stream going, and then I started thinking and reading online -- the spring is supposed to be 2 3/8 inches in length... my new one was only 2 1/4", and my old one was only 1 3/4" in length! 

Once I realized the correct length (thanks Internet), I stretched my spring a tad bit, and lo and hold, it fits perfectly on the rod! I used  Carter special tool T109-117s to measure the proper compression distance. Testing will commence tomorrow... but I'm much more hopeful of a working accelerator  from start.

 

 

 

 

f) The Chrysler dash pot pump replacement instructions are clear once you realize that you just have to take off the end bit of metal instead of drilling into it (whoops). That was fun to take apart and rebuild it since new ones were not available. 

 

 

g) The word "rebuild" should be taken with a grain of salt, as I have seen numerous instances where the prior owner or their respective mechanics have  taken shortcuts or parts from other Carter carbs and used them here. Take the homemade retainer clip which presses on the pin instead of letting it float freely. In general, rebuilds are only as good as the rebuilder understands the component fully, and it seems to me most kits don't have nearly enough parts. 

 

 

 

Edited December 27, 2021 by wagoneer

[DJK]

Congrats on taking on such a challenge. This is just a thought, you may want to compile a list of members along the route in case you are in need of any support. I am located 2 miles from Rt17(86) between Binghamton and Elmira,NY. Do you have a map of the route with specifics? I plan on watching once I know of a good location to view from. 

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

Sounds like a great experience, recommend driving at a lower elevation, near what you will be in the race to verify carb adjustments.

[DJK]

11 hours ago, wagoneer said:

Hello friends,

  This is my build thread for my 1948 Chrysler Windsor. I've had several ad-hoc threads, but no cohesive thread as Elise (not to be confused with my 1950 B2B also named Elise). This build thread is special - as my son and I (and the rest of family) have entered into the 2022 Great Race with Elise. We are VERY excited, and I am excited to get Elise into proper shape for the rally race. 

 

There are many things on my list of to-do items, and I would like to share my preparation journey with you all, and also document the race. This is a really special event for my three boys and myself to participate. I particularly enjoy the process as well as teaching them how the vehicle works, and learning myself as I go. 

 

Most of my preparation has to happen over the next 6 weeks, but on my near term list of to do items include:

 

1. Rebuild Carburetor

2. Install Alternator

3. Fix frayed wiring

4. Tune up (points, cap, rotor, timing, wires)

5. Electric fan

6. new tires (balance/align)

7. Brakes - adjust

8. Change oils

9. Race Speedometer

10. 7 wire turn signals (rewire turns for brake+turn and flashers)

11. Miscellaneous survival requirements for race

12. Optima battery

13. Figure out how to get to RI and Back from ND cheaply

14. Practice runs (50, 100, 500 miles)

15. 200 mile tank minimum

 

Elise is overall in very good shape, and generally has been driven lightly over the last 24 years (3 thousand miles). Well maintained, and has always run well, but this race will double the total miles.

 

 

Not knowing the history of your vehicle, my concerns would include front wheel bearing repack, all axle seals, pinion seal, trans seals, condition of master and wheel cyls. etc. Like you mentioned, the vehicle has been driven very little over the past 24 yrs., this will be a whole new ball game.

[Dan Hiebert]

Excellent!  Congratulations on entering the Great Race, and thanks so much for thinking of us during the run-up.  I will enjoy following along.  We've been lucky in that the last four places we've lived ended up being near or along a Great Race route, New Mexico, Michigan, western New York, and even here in Maine.  Fun to go to the route or some of the stop-overs and gawk.

   

[Art Bailey]

Great write-up on the EV-1! Simple and yet they're tricky little suckers, for sure---I rebuilt mine at least 4 times in 2 months, not quite getting it right each time until the end. 

 

I have parts from three of these things that went into making one functional carb, and I noticed that on all of them, the throttle shaft holes in the base are all worn, causing a vacuum leak around the throttle shaft. When I squirt water at the throttle shaft, it sucks it in, sounding like a kid with a straw at the end of an ice cream soda. I don't know enough about vacuum leaks to say if this is causing enough of a problem to contribute to my engine's rough Idle, and difficulties in tuning the carb, but I'm definitely going to ream out the holes, press in some correctly sized bushings, and see if it helps. Seeing this problem on three separate bases make me think this is an inevitable problem on all 70+ year old B+B carbs, so you may want to check into it, if you find yourself chasing gremlins.

 

Looking forward to road stories from the race!

Edited December 27, 2021 by ratbailey

[keithb7]

I’d wager yes, throttle shaft wear leads to rough running. You have to control all air entry into the engine. Allowing all air to enter via the carb intake only. A tell-tale sign of a vacuum leak in the lower throttle valve area is , when twisting the idle a/F mixture screw has little to no effect at engine idle.

 

[Art Bailey]

12 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

I’d wager yes, throttle shaft wear leads to rough running. You have to control all air entry into the engine. Allowing all air to enter via the carb intake only. A tell-tale sign of a vacuum leak in the lower throttle valve area is , when twisting the idle a/F mixture screw has little to no effect at engine idle.

 

Yep, you nailed the symptoms. In spite of it, the engine starts right up, even in cold weather, and smooths out as it heats up, but it's definitely not right. Should be an easy fix, with a big payoff...my favorite kind of problem.

[keithb7]

Keep a sharp eye out for this little bugger.

 

 

[wagoneer]

9 hours ago, DJK said:

Not knowing the history of your vehicle, my concerns would include front wheel bearing repack, all axle seals, pinion seal, trans seals, condition of master and wheel cyls. etc. Like you mentioned, the vehicle has been driven very little over the past 24 yrs., this will be a whole new ball game.

Thanks @DJK when I purchased the vehicle a little over 18 months ago, I had a mechanic go through and fix the whole undercarriage- brakes , new master cylinder, steering, wheel bearings, ball joints, shocks, rear pinion seal (though I think it started leaking again), and I even had the undercarriage power washed and rubber coated . 
that was all base work to make it road worthy - that leaves the running gear and the electricals.

 

@keithb7 @ratbailey my carb base seems pretty good and no sucking in . I’m learning to hate the accelerator pump though - the design is inane - why push down when the suction is on the upstroke - I had to futz with it so much as well as getting the float just right.

 

an update from yesterday - I replaced the homey wire the PO put in with a real hold down spring and guess what - it’s different . The float floats slightly in the space at the bottom and the float can be lopsided if the hold down is uneven (argh!) In the end 5/64 does the trick IFF  you have original equipment.

 

Here is the money shot (silly iPhone upside down ?

 

 

 

 

[wagoneer]

Now that my carb is sorted , I decided to move on to the next logical problem - tuning. Despite my new found working carb, when I press the accelerator (especially when only lightly) , the car stumbled and almost or does stall. I really have to clutch and rev to get going.

 

I had this issue before but without insight. I thought it was my accelerator pump so I screwed with that for half a day making subtle improvements but still the problem of stumbling on acceleration.

 

I hook up my tachometer and when I go into drive the rpm’s drop to like 250!

 

I go to check the timing - at 450 rpm idle- and it’s at 12+ degrees! My dwell is at 20!

 

no wonder my accelerator is stalling, there is no more spark to be had at the low rpm with such advanced spark. I try to adjust it but the dizzy won’t spin so far back to 2 ATDC! I’ll have to readjust it on the bench.

 

I’m pulling out my old tune up parts I bought a year ago. At this rate I might cleanup my workshop by the end of January!

Edited December 28, 2021 by wagoneer

[Sniper]

May I suggest you verify the timing mark. 

 

 

[harmony]

On 12/26/2021 at 9:13 PM, wagoneer said:

1. The Carburetor Revolutions

 

I have taken on the carburetor rebuild - something that has sorely been needed for quite some time, and I am surprised how easy AND how clever/tricky the Carter B&B EV1 carburetor can be. This has been on my roadmap for at least a year, and like any good restorer, I've been stocking up on parts: I pulled the rebuild kit out of the box, and all the specialty Carter tools that I bought (Turns out I needed them too). 

 

The results are fantastic (and a bit ongoing). Amazing things happen when your carburetor no longer leaks, and properly functions - such as my oil pressure is at 40 for the first time that I remember, my idle ... idles at 450, and my 3->4 automatic upshift .... works!!! A working dashpot allows me to brake at the light without pushing the clutch in to prevent stalling. I am AMAZED how much better the car is overall. Shifts to reverse are much more smooth than before (all thanks due to lower oil pressure that is key to the whole fluid drive mechanism). 

 

Over the last 3 days, I must have fully rebuilt this carburetor 4 times, and taken apart and put it back together at least another 15 times. The EV1 is the special version that comes with the 46-48 6 cylinder Chryslers that all have fluid drive, and thus also have special kick down button,  Fluid drive electronics, and an automatic dashpot.

 

I followed along with the directions that were in the shop manual, the directions from Carter (here in the  downloads), a great video from Mike's Carburetor, and the provided directions, and there were a lot of similarities but differences enough as well as many nuances that were not in any of those documents. In addition, you remember that you need your wits about you as somebody was in these parts before, and you are looking for parts that fit and make it work as original, but even the replacement parts don't necessarily work right.. Then you start thinking HOW the car should behave, and how the parts of the carburetor so cleverly enable "simple" mechanism like fast idle, kick down, or even acceleration through the accelerator pump. Only once you understand what the behavior should be, and how the pieces fit together, do the instructions start making more sense.

 

Therefore, I must have put together pieces 15 times until small tidbits like the fast idle cam started making "sense", and then when you read the docs and watch the videos again, you watch them with a new perspective.  

 

I also crossed 14500! That is likely 114500 but the engine was totally rebuilt probably about 20 years go (my best guess), but the car drives like it's 14,500. (Ignore the heat sensor, it's on the list of things to replace -- I have the NOS replacement waiting it's turn in the queue).

 

 

 

a) For example, the you have to put the  fast-idle cam behind the throttle linkage arm by spinning the throttle all the way back and then putting the fast idle cam backwards on it, and then it all slides together. In addition, the linkage arm connecting the fast idle cam to the choke lever are keyed on both ends AND does NOT  connect if the carburetor horn is bolted on top (as directed per some directions). You have to put the arm into the keyed slot for the fast idle cam first, flip the horn over (unscrewed of course), connect it and then flip it back over and lay it on top the prepared throttle body (careful not to knock out the spring covering the special dashpot connection).

 

Here's a special little tidbit just in this connection that wasn't obvious to me -- The fast idle cam linkage is connected to the choke linkage, so when you start your car with the choke on, the car should warm up with the fast idle cam pushing the throttle and warm up quickly...but also when you push the accelerator, the fast idle cam will slip and pull OPEN the choke via a small metal piece at the choke linkage along with releasing the fast idle cam... which made me think, why wasn't mine slipping and opening the choke too? I need to lube the fast idle cam so it move freely and thus has this behavior.

 

 

b) Did you know that the ONLY complete diagram of the EV1 is in the parts manual and now here....  Every other diagram omits all the special EV1 equipment for the Chrysler fluid drives. 

 

 

 

c) The carburetor horn is very easy to take on and off, and really you just need a flathead to make most adjustments. I was "scared" before, and I would say to anybody who hasn't rebuilt a carburetor, to do so even if it's a spare one. You learn a ton doing it, and then a ton more making it work on the car by fixing all. your earlier mistakes over and over.

 

d) Adjusting the float is very tricky, and how millimeters matter for the float to not flood or starve the carb amazes me. I initially set mine to factory 5/64  (using Carter tool), but that was too rich so I put it closer to 4/32 (1/8) after a number of trials

 

e) I've been fighting the accelerator pump ALL day - I couldn't get my pump to spray strong enough, and I would have a delayed acceleration or stall out! I followed instructions and bent down and bent up but I couldn't get a good stream going, and then I started thinking and reading online -- the spring is supposed to be 2 3/8 inches in length... my new one was only 2 1/4", and my old one was only 1 3/4" in length! 

Once I realized the correct length (thanks Internet), I stretched my spring a tad bit, and lo and hold, it fits perfectly on the rod! I used  Carter special tool T109-117s to measure the proper compression distance. Testing will commence tomorrow... but I'm much more hopeful of a working accelerator  from start.

 

 

 

 

f) The Chrysler dash pot pump replacement instructions are clear once you realize that you just have to take off the end bit of metal instead of drilling into it (whoops). That was fun to take apart and rebuild it since new ones were not available. 

 

 

g) The word "rebuild" should be taken with a grain of salt, as I have seen numerous instances where the prior owner or their respective mechanics have  taken shortcuts or parts from other Carter carbs and used them here. Take the homemade retainer clip which presses on the pin instead of letting it float freely. In general, rebuilds are only as good as the rebuilder understands the component fully, and it seems to me most kits don't have nearly enough parts. 

 

 

 

The dash pot is available through Mike's carburetor for the EV1. 

If you got a rebuilt kit from him he probably omitted one of the 3 balls needed.  You probably only got a 3/16" and a 1/8" ball.  The third ball is a 5/32" and it goes in the accelerator pump chamber under that retaining clip.  The EV1 is the only B&B that has three different size balls I believe.  That 5/32" ball can be bought at most bicycle repair shops.  I can't remember what they use them for right now, maybe the loose ball bearings on the pedals??  Anyways I got half a dozen of them and the bicycle shop didn't even charge me for them.  

[harmony]

I don't mean to sound like an alarmist, but by the time you are ready to leave in June, it will be 2 years since that mechanic did the brakes.  I would go through them completely.  Check all the wheel cylinders for moisture.  Change the fluid and replace those two flex lines feeding the front wheels.  Inspect the MC.  I'm just finishing up a complete brake job on my 48 Windsor.  I thought since my flex lines looked new and they were replaced a couple years ago.  No rust on the metal end and they even had a label on one with the part number on it.  The passenger one was fine and I blew air through it and poured a bit of brake fluid in it and it came out the other end looking like new.  Today I was putting together the drivers side and I noticed a little bit of dirt around the inside of the fitting on that flex line, so I proceeded to blow some air through it with my compressor just to get that little bit out of the threads.  No air came through.  ????  I took the line off and proceeded to push a length of mechanics wire through the hose and no way.  It was clogged solid.  I ordered 2 new flex lines this afternoon.

 

Btw, my old girl Harmony, was stopping perfectly before I started the brake inspection and the only reason I started to investigate the brakes is because I had replaced the wheel seals so I had to disconnect the rear brake lines.  Once the seals were replaced, I was just going to bleed the brakes and call it a day.  But the front right wheel cylinders wouldn't bleed.  The front passenger top wheel cylinder was seized with rust inside ( I have a picture of it in a post a few weeks back)  I had the front brakes adjusted correctly so perhaps it was just perfect timing that they decided to seize up and clog up just as I was replacing the wheel seals.  I suppose my point is "looks can be deceiving".  Because the wheel cylinders didn't have a speck of rust on the outside.  They still looked brand new.  

 

There is a good article in the Technical section of this forum ( hold curser on browse and look to the right and click on technical) on how to service and adjust the brakes. Well worth the read.

Edited December 29, 2021 by harmony

[harmony]

On 12/27/2021 at 3:51 PM, wagoneer said:

Thanks @DJK when I purchased the vehicle a little over 18 months ago, I had a mechanic go through and fix the whole undercarriage- brakes , new master cylinder, steering, wheel bearings, ball joints, shocks, rear pinion seal (though I think it started leaking again), and I even had the undercarriage power washed and rubber coated . 
that was all base work to make it road worthy - that leaves the running gear and the electricals.

 

@keithb7 @ratbailey my carb base seems pretty good and no sucking in . I’m learning to hate the accelerator pump though - the design is inane - why push down when the suction is on the upstroke - I had to futz with it so much as well as getting the float just right.

 

an update from yesterday - I replaced the homey wire the PO put in with a real hold down spring and guess what - it’s different . The float floats slightly in the space at the bottom and the float can be lopsided if the hold down is uneven (argh!) In the end 5/64 does the trick IFF  you have original equipment.

 

Here is the money shot (silly iPhone upside down ?

 

 

 

 

Do you recall who made the wheel seal and the p/n ?   I just recently replaced my pinion seal.  It was my mistake to not send up a red flag when I saw that the the seal was the leather type when it arrived.  Timken 7216.  My second mistake was not soaking it in oil for a few days before installing it.  This was pointed out to me by one of the gurus on here.  He said it will probably leak in a month or so.  It only took a couple days.  So I pulled it out and put in a SKF 18912 seal, which is a Nitrile rubber type.  Problem solved. 

[wagoneer]

7 hours ago, harmony said:

The dash pot is available through Mike's carburetor for the EV1. 

If you got a rebuilt kit from him he probably omitted one of the 3 balls needed.  You probably only got a 3/16" and a 1/8" ball.  The third ball is a 5/32" and it goes in the accelerator pump chamber under that retaining clip.  The EV1 is the only B&B that has three different size balls I believe.  That 5/32" ball can be bought at most bicycle repair shops.  I can't remember what they use them for right now, maybe the loose ball bearings on the pedals??  Anyways I got half a dozen of them and the bicycle shop didn't even charge me for them.  

 

This kit was from Mike's, and I replaced two check balls for the accelerator pump (larger one and smaller one). I did not see a third check ball...where does the third one go?  But I have to say my accelerator pump is still not quite as responsive as before my rebuild. I may try to swap out the old check ball, or find a new one. 

 

Brakes are on my list to go over again; My point was that the base work was done already once, and so I will go and refresh and update existing. 

 

[wagoneer]

As I looked into timing and removed my dizzy…. I veered onto a glittery side path of “while I’m here already, I might as well…” .

 

on my checklist to knock out are the alternator, heat sensor, and oil pressure relief valve.

 

im resisting going to “take the head off while I’m here” for the moment though I found it odd to hear the pressure escaping into when manually turn the crank with the fan….

 

anyway… down this path I got the oil pressure relief valve out , and I found it shorter than the replacement I received (plus no gasket).

 

  I think it is the green spring compared to the “standard” spring.

 

  I’m debating whether to go ahead with the standard size to lower the pressure a bit considering my nominal oil pressure even after the rebuild was about 45 or 50 in drive, and starts out at 60+ at idle.

 

thoughts? 
 

also to better inform, I’m going to change the topic name to include the problem at hand in this build thread .

 

 

Edited December 29, 2021 by wagoneer

[harmony]

8 hours ago, wagoneer said:

 

This kit was from Mike's, and I replaced two check balls for the accelerator pump (larger one and smaller one). I did not see a third check ball...where does the third one go?  But I have to say my accelerator pump is still not quite as responsive as before my rebuild. I may try to swap out the old check ball, or find a new one. 

 

Brakes are on my list to go over again; My point was that the base work was done already once, and so I will go and refresh and update existing. 

 

Reading your first sentence, sounds like you may have put the smallest ball in the wrong place.  I'd be surprised if Mike's gave you the medium and large balls and not the smallest one, because when I talked to him he didn't have any medium size balls.  A picture is worth a thousand words.   I'm heading to my shop now and I'll brake down one of my spare EV1 carbs and take a picture of where they go.  I'll post it in about 8 or 9 hours.

 

Did you soak the accelerator pump in oil for awhile to swell up the leather?  When I got my kit from Mike's I was surprised at how much wiggle room that leather part had once it was in the cylinder.

[harmony]

Here is the EV1 carb with all kinds of labelled identifications.  This picture was posted by c49er a couple years ago.  You'll find the location of the balls easily since the sizes are mentioned.  I might be wrong but I don't think that the large ball will even fit under the C shaped retaining clip at the bottom of the accelerator pump well.  So since you only got 2 from Mike's, perhaps you put the small one under that C retaining clip instead of in that recess on the body close to the venturi opening. 

Edited December 30, 2021 by harmony

[harmony]

In case anyone reading this post isn't familiar with the EV1 Carter B&B carburetor, that's required in the cars with the Fluid Drive coupler, here is a picture showing all the parts. It's pretty mindboggling the first time you take one apart. 

[Dodgeb4ya]

Are you missing the small steel ball swaged into the drilled accelerator pump passage way discharge hole?

If the ball is missing fuel will flow out of this hole instead of into the accelerator pump removable jet and venturi discharge hole.

 Also no ball is placed into the idle vent passage.

 Maybe the 3rd ball is what should be placed back into the open accelerator drilled passage hole?

See pictures....

[harmony]

Good eye on "the missing ball" dodgeb4ya.   This particular carb was missing that ball.  There was quite a discussion about that in one of my earlier posts. I couldn't figure out how it managed to come out of there.  No marks on the area around it.  It was very strange. The ball just wasn't there when I took the carb apart.   I did have this carb on the car at one time and without that pressed in ball, and it worked just fine.  

 

Where the red arrow points and " no ball goes here".  That is actually where the smallest ball does go. If you look at the picture I posted it indicates that it goes there .  I have 4 of the EV1 carbs and when I took each one apart they all had the 1/8" ball in that spot.    Unfortunately I can't read what it says (in red) on the first picture that you just posted with the red arrow pointing at the hole where the 1/8" ball goes.