47 dodge 1.5 ton

Not sure if the starter you used had a contact like the original. I had a similar issue after rebuilding my starter and the “new” contact that bolts to the top had a dead short due to a slightly oversized hole in the insulator. This caused a slight gap, enough to short to ground when engaging foot lever. I bought (4) new ones from different vendors before I dismantled and found the issue. I made a new insulator and now have full juice going to the starter. Just a thought when I read your post.

Don’t think they were really available on 23” motors unless marine applications. They were available in the early 50’s for the 25”,265 dodge 2 1/2 ton trucks and dealer aftermarket. They do not interchange.

I almost never try turning the wheel when sitting still, figure putting unnecessary wear on the gear box , tie rod ends ect.. Cant think of when I turned it last unless in the air. I do always try to plan where the wheel needs to be when stopping, more of a start position for the next movement like going for reverse, comes natural after while. Just think of it like driving a new truck on YOUR freshly paved asphalt driveway— ?

Not sure a vanity counts but is from 1947. I thought it was cool to have a PA truck club membership tag from the time period that the color semi matches.

If you still try using a template, be cautious because you will not be able to see that well through any fixture. I recommend using left hand drill bits on whatever process you use as most of the time will spin the old stud out.

Educational— that explains the carrier not having the pinion snubber boss.

This list starts in 57 but might help with what you have. https://www.bing.com/fd/ls/GLinkPing.aspx?IG=461326F9C6624EEA9231E304A0739E2E&&ID=SERP,5196.1&SUIH=_ll7HD-g9oCBLjiAKCMwRw&redir=aHR0cDovL2Nvd3Rvd25tb3BhcnMuY29tL29yaWdpbmFsL0NocnlzbGVyUmVhckVuZC5odG1s

Well, I don’t have a have ton yet. But when I get more serious wanting one and see an 8-3/4 under it will be a huge plus. I could imagine the jackpot being switched out over the years. If yours has a leather pinion seal, combined with that style yoke would indicate an early one to myself. I’m not sure there is enough information to determine what it actually came from. These were so common back when I did some racing, they would get switched in less than an hour. Trucks probably not, but still possible. I looked at a few today but don’t want to pull yokes off unless someone needs it. Seals have been changing for years from vendors. I good quality seal today is most likely better than was in there so I wouldn’t fret that so much(if that’s a concern)Just make sure it’s for oil and has the correct dimensions.

Those numbers are stamped on the brg and race. I have several 8 3/4’s apart at the farm and can look at Sunday. Could be out of truck, c,b,a body car. I thought the axle bearings are the same size, could be wrong though, never switched them in housings. If you have a few days, I’ll check a few 60-70’s rears. Have a little of everything still left from some years ago. What bolt pattern does the axles have?

Look on the bottom along the side, that will tell you the bearing size. Gears are stamped on the OD of ring gear and may have been changed so I wouldn’t go by the tag if it still has one. I didn’t know they had those available in the 40’s but the yoke could have been changed.

Maybe the best rear you can have— looks like a mopar 8 3/4 with an old style yoke?. See what numbers are on the jackpot. Maybe 741,742 or 489 if I remember correctly? I haven’t worked on the 1/2” ton trucks, maybe they just have the look.

Welcome to this group! A lot of very knowledgeable folks her with these old trucks. You have an excellent set up to work with! Kevin

Picture here with a happy fellow is Myself! I could probably put (6) on but didn’t want to push it, bales weigh short of 1000lbs each. 4 of them didn’t really budge the springs but pull pretty hard.

My truck loaded with round bales. Just finished our first cutting hay crop this year and finally remembered to take some pictures. Goal has been to get the old truck ready for local customer small deliveries.

Prayers for your recovery. It may seem like an eternity when something like this disrupts life, doctors are much more advanced than they were when our old trucks came through the plant, this is one improvement we have experienced through time.

Truck is gorgeous- the red accents on the interior /wheels really finish nicely.

So I am curious if you reduce lift by just a few thousands, adding clearance, how that hits the head as well? My thought would be, tighter it is, gives you more lift and increase HP slightly. Open it up to a safe side, loses power, and adds a little noise. I can’t imagine bending over the fender and under the exhaust, you give a very descriptive pathway for maintenance. I don’t want this post to be taken negatively, just wanted to understand a little better. I have seen some engine specs showing .016” hot exhaust setting for the 25”.

Supercharged Chrysler flathead…. Nice!!! Maybe see this at Carlisle this year?

That’s great! Please tell us about your build a little. I believe this is only the 2nd tested flathead that I have seen recorded and reported. Can you show the HP & torque curve?

My set up may not be as good as yours so don’t know without trying. When I installed dual carbs, and dual 2 1/4” exhaust on a heavier truck it was noticeably stronger. How much?? Maybe 10-15 hp don’t really know but it is much more snappy, easier to make higher rpm’s, don’t press as hard on the flats, up hill around my neck of the woods still let’s me use all the gears I have. Cant speak on the economic factor but believe there is less load on the engine in general. The exhaust I would guess is the best gains if measured alone. The dual carbs have a certain sound that makes it worth the effort and a tinker factor that I enjoy so it completes the package. Also makes great added conversation. If I wanted to stay original 100%, everything ran great, maybe not. In my case, intake had a crack over the heat plate that needed repair so I was already in there. I just have a stock 236 for a test before replacing with a 265 if desired later down the road, factory (2) carb intake, factory truck B&B’s, and Langdon’s headers. I did have to upgrade linkage as the original was worn severely. Everyone has their own opinion on what’s best for these engines so I just listen and don’t stress my thoughts. IMO— heading in the right direction for improvement. Gears— If I do a pickup someday will stick with 4.10’s and add an OD unit most likely. Best of luck!

Needs some help. In effort to “upgrade brakes” or just have good brakes, I need to replace hose from frame to rear axle. I have 5/16” line from master cylinder to rear, now replaced the original 5/16” OD lines to the banjo with 1/4”OD copper nickel double flared ends. I am looking for a 1/4” ID hose and tee block for (2) 1/4” OD double flared male ends. Is this something not available? All hoses I have come across are 1/8” DOT flexible lines. Is this correct for trucks(larger B series) Cant imagine going from 5/16”down to 1/8” and back up to 1/4” to the wheel cylinders? The original lines to the wheel cylinders were 5/16” for the rear and a very large unidentified hose dropping from the frame( ID measures .280”) This is the 3rd try at getting something to work as I posted questions around this topic a few months ago. Last ditch effort was replacing the original 5/16” axle lines to 1/4”, use the B series banjo’s use the 1/8” dot flexible line from DCM and use the B series block. This was a failed attempt so far. Another thought was maybe the B series used a heavier return spring than the W series? Starting to get expensive testing out new ideas. Everything in the brake system is Brand New or professionally reconditioned by white post. I still have the very large wheel stepped cylinders on the rear as this was the first thing I targeted and was trying to stay OEM at the time, Maybe they are too large for these undersized lines?(bigger bore size than the 1 1/2 ton B series I have for parts) I have good brakes, I don’t have good release when letting off peddle, delayed several seconds.

When I did my truck last year the new bearing was only .003 thicker than the original. Tells me they didn’t compress much over time. I would look your new bearings over well and try searching the thrust load as designed. I’m not sure if anything is/was published in a service manual but, possibly folks on here may know what the original requirement was. A lot of work to do twice if you have an issue. Don’t think I would be concerned so much about adding shims, just the load rating. Does the ID fit the shaft the same? Wanted to add— you may want to pre pack the brg before installing, I didn’t because I wanted a tight shim fit. After assembly, I could not get grease to the brg and ended pulling the first side I did back apart. I was still able to get the same shim back in, just a little more difficult.

I have really been liking the induction heater with a shot of kroil here lately for places I don’t want burn marks. Big bad blue when there’s room.

Durability— I would go on a limb and be inclined to say possibly one of the most durable engines offered IMO. The 47 truck I have have currently appears to never have been opened. Guess that can be debated because I have only talked to the 2nd owner. 25” industrial Chrysler engine I pulled from an air compressor was told to me never opened, it was built in the 70’s however did not run. 25” industrial motor I pulled from a 1960 combine ran smooth, cool and had good oil pressure when I drove it home 2 1/2 hours(first trip off the farm and on the road!). The PO bought it new in 1960, used it several crops a year until my purchase. Said that he never changed the oil, plugs, wires, points, or water pump. He drained the water, gas at the end of each season. This motor has never been touched as he said it was too hard to access it in the machine. He only ever hose washed it, added oil when it was low and only checked about once a year. They generator and water pump pulleys are wore through as I’m guessing the belts got old and became loose. That is a true testament of time. I’m sure there are some other engine manufactures out there that may have similar stories but I don’t know them personally.

Sounds like you are on track. I was mistakenly thinking you were opening the bearing bore prior to installing the brg. I did throw some heat to the spindle and drove new king pin in as it was close to size with some press interference. As you stated, taper pinned so may not need any press.