Worden18 Posted October 7, 2021 Author Report Posted October 7, 2021 10-6: Got the new spring kit for the front brakes installed. Got everything adjusted. Went out for a ride and the car pulls to the right slightly and I have brake drag on the right side. When I assembled everything I was assuming quite the opposite. I thought that I might be tightening the passenger brakes. I'll pull it apart tomorrow to make sure the wheel cylinder didn't spring. That's what happened to the the driver's side at one point. I'll get it yet! When we were filling up for gas a guy pulled up on his motorcycle to tell me he liked my car. He had no idea what it was. We chatted for about 5 minutes. He said if it was his car he would lower it and make a rat rod out of it ? Quote
plymouthcranbrook Posted October 7, 2021 Report Posted October 7, 2021 Remember that a pull might also be a flex hose deterioration inside and that will slow the return of the fluid and make the car act as if the brakes aren't adjusted right. 1 1 Quote
oldodge41 Posted October 24, 2021 Report Posted October 24, 2021 Any updates on the brakes? I hope all is well. Quote
Worden18 Posted October 26, 2021 Author Report Posted October 26, 2021 On 10/24/2021 at 11:40 AM, oldodge41 said: Any updates on the brakes? I hope all is well. I just worked on the driver side front tonight. I got everything apart except for the rubber hose that connects to the wheel cylinder. I'm having trouble with this clip. Is there a special tool to pull it off or should I just try to grab it with a pliers? I think it's rusted, I did spray it and I will leave it sit overnight. Meanwhile I ordered two new brake hoses. This has to be the problem as there is nothing else left to fix. ? 1 Quote
greg g Posted October 26, 2021 Report Posted October 26, 2021 (edited) Suppose you could dremal it off if it's replaceable. https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-hose-locking-clip/p/brakeware-brake-hose-lock-h1457a/709338_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:BLH:8362369872&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4q71vf7m8wIVRIpaBR1U0QC1EAQYASABEgIjIvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Edited October 26, 2021 by greg g 1 Quote
greg g Posted October 26, 2021 Report Posted October 26, 2021 (edited) Need another? https://classics.autotrader.com/classic-cars/1960/rambler/american/101603078 Three is also one in Mich with a dual carb aluminum head. Edited October 26, 2021 by greg g 1 Quote
plymouthcranbrook Posted October 26, 2021 Report Posted October 26, 2021 59 minutes ago, greg g said: Need another? https://classics.autotrader.com/classic-cars/1960/rambler/american/101603078 Three is also one in Mich with a dual carb aluminum head. At $29,900 he's gonna have it a long time 1 Quote
Merle Coggins Posted October 26, 2021 Report Posted October 26, 2021 How much room do you have to swing a hammer? Those clips can usually be removed by hooking a punch/chisel/screwdriver onto the turned up lip at the bottom of the "U" and give it a smack with a hammer. 1 Quote
Dave72dt Posted October 26, 2021 Report Posted October 26, 2021 If you can't get a good angle to tap against the lip, tap on a corner of it and turn the clip to an angle you can get at. There's a groove all the way around the hose so the clip will turn. There's some spring tension in the clip to hold the hose tight in the bracket so it needs to be forced off the hose as well as on when reinstalling. No tension means it needs to be replaced, common part at any parts store. 1 Quote
Worden18 Posted October 26, 2021 Author Report Posted October 26, 2021 Merle and Dave, thanks for the info. There's not much room at all. I don't think I can swing a hammer. I'll look at it again tonight and see what I can do ? Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 26, 2021 Report Posted October 26, 2021 A long heavy duty screw driver...pound it off as already mentioned or a good pair of vice grips on the lip...TIGHT...twist and work it off. That's how I remove them. NAPA has those clips in different sizes. 1 Quote
greg g Posted October 26, 2021 Report Posted October 26, 2021 Small slide hammer, air chisel? 1 Quote
Dan Hiebert Posted October 28, 2021 Report Posted October 28, 2021 I usually clamp onto the "L" with a vise grip and tap it off with a hammer. Try using the side of the hammer for more swinging room. Sometimes it comes right off. Other times, once I get enough space between the closed end and the line, I insert a flat screwdriver and twist to work it off. The side we're seeing is pretty clean, may help to clean the other side, there may be just enough crud there to keep the line from backing out enough for the clip to, well, unclip. 1 1 Quote
Worden18 Posted November 7, 2021 Author Report Posted November 7, 2021 11-6: Update on the brakes. I was able to get those little clamps loose with a hammer and a screwdriver, and then pull them off with a pliers. Installed the new flex hoses. I still have the same problem, the brake shoes do not return to the boss and drag against the drums causing excessive heat. I have both sides backed off all the way with the star adjustment screw, and that seems to be working for right now. The only other thing that isn't brand new is the master cylinder. Flex hoses, shoes, wheel cylinders, spring kit, everything is new. And still the damn brake shoes won't return all the way. Could the master cylinder cause this problem? Some pictures from our test drive... Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 7, 2021 Report Posted November 7, 2021 IF the master is not returning past the bleed hole and relieving the line pressure...the brakes usually stay on to some degree....now the master could not be returning due to trash/rust behind the piston and even a brake shoe can cause similar issues of not fully returning for the same reason...rust ring in the cylinder..... 1 1 Quote
Worden18 Posted November 7, 2021 Author Report Posted November 7, 2021 3 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said: IF the master is not returning past the bleed hole and relieving the line pressure...the brakes usually stay on to some degree....now the master could not be returning due to trash/rust behind the piston and even a brake shoe can cause similar issues of not fully returning for the same reason...rust ring in the cylinder..... Okay, thanks Plymouthy. Next up: master cylinder replacement. I'm not going to let this beat me. I can literally take apart and put the brakes back together with my eyes closed now ? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 7, 2021 Report Posted November 7, 2021 before you just arbitrary replace the master....I think a visual would be in order....unless you just happen to have money to burn then SHUT MY MOUTH...!!!! 1 Quote
Worden18 Posted November 7, 2021 Author Report Posted November 7, 2021 3 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said: before you just arbitrary replace the master....I think a visual would be in order....unless you just happen to have money to burn then SHUT MY MOUTH...!!!! Considering the brakes were done by the PO eight or nine years ago....and he didn't drive it much AND left it sit outside in the winter...and when I replaced the wheel cylinders they looked awful inside, I'm more than willing to replace the master. A new one isn't spendy ? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 7, 2021 Report Posted November 7, 2021 it is not so much the cost as it is the need and utilizing proper troubleshooting techniques.....well at least that is the way I look at things.... 1 Quote
Worden18 Posted November 7, 2021 Author Report Posted November 7, 2021 8 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said: it is not so much the cost as it is the need and utilizing proper troubleshooting techniques.....well at least that is the way I look at things.... Well you can count on me to screw things up and have to do things twice. At least this time around I felt I did things in the proper order. Wheel cylinders first, spring kit, flex hoses. I suppose I should have just bought a new master cylinder right away and done that months ago. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 7, 2021 Report Posted November 7, 2021 It was just a suggestion that if you were going to continue messing with the older cars that troubleshooting techniques be applied first to ascertain the needs/problem....even if you choose to buy new over rebuild yourself...at least you should know what you are spending your money on will fix the real problem. I have too many cars in my stable and thus my money I try to spend more wisely, correct calls on failed components save not only money but time invested. Both resources I try to spread out the best I can allowing me to do more for less. 1 Quote
Veemoney Posted November 7, 2021 Report Posted November 7, 2021 10 hours ago, Worden18 said: when I replaced the wheel cylinders they looked awful inside, It's a pretty safe bet from your description of the wheel cylinders condition that the master needs some attention and in hind sight as you mentioned you should have done it with the wheel cylinders but no harm done so far it sounds like. You may consider ordering one of these inexpensive brake hones. Lisle 10000 BRAKE CYLINDER HONE | Tool Discounter which should work on the wheel and master cylinders. I have honed wheel cylinders on the vehicle with one of these no problem. Step cylinders get done from both ends. Napa and other parts stores should have them in stock also. You can still find rebuild kits fairly cheap and wheel cylinders and masters are simple to do. Even if you order new it is nice to have your old components refurbished for future use if needed. 1 Quote
greg g Posted November 7, 2021 Report Posted November 7, 2021 Pressure relief port in the mc clear and flowing? 1 Quote
Worden18 Posted November 8, 2021 Author Report Posted November 8, 2021 8 hours ago, greg g said: Pressure relief port in the mc clear and flowing? Not sure.... Quote
Worden18 Posted November 8, 2021 Author Report Posted November 8, 2021 11-7: Out for another test cruise with my daughter. We got hungry and stopped at Little Caesars for pizza. The guy gave us a pizza for free! ? Quote
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